Winter Harvest Cookbook: How to Select and Prepare Fresh Seasonal Produce All Winter Long

318 Pages·2010·4.79 MB·English

by  Lane Morgan

Lane Morgan
To my daughters,
Laurel and Deshanna
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COOKBOOK
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NEW SOCIETY PUBLISHERS
Copyright 2010 by Lane Morgan. All rights reserved.
©
Cover and interior design by Diane McIntosh.
Cover and interior illustrations by Celeste June Henriquez, Portland, ME.
Printed in Canada. First printing October 2010
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LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA C ATALOGUING IN P UBLICATION
Morgan, Lane, 1949-
Winter harvest cookbook: how to select and prepare fresh seasonal
produce all winter long / Lane Morgan. - Rev. and updated 20th
anniversary ed.
Includes bibliographical references and indexes.
ISBN 978-0-86571-679-7 eISBN: 978-1-55092-458-9
l. Cooking (Vegetables). 1. Title.
TX801.M682010 64l.6'5 C2010-904787-7
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(ert no. SW·COC-001 271
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NEW SOCIETY PUBLISHERS
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contents
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Acknowledgments ix
Preface to the New Edition xi
Introduction to the 1990 Edition xv
Pa r t I: Ingredients
Produce List 1
Other Ingredients Common to These Recipes 42
A Note on Urban Compost 48
Gluten-free Recipes 50
Pa r til: recipes
Soups 51
Salads 79
Main Dishes 101
Side Dishes 153
Sauces 227
Desserts & Baked Goods 237
Pa r t III: Ideas and resources
Menus 271
Resources 277
Recipe Index 287
Index 291
About the Author 299
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K?
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acknowledgments
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A lifetime of cooking and gardening with friends and family could
make this list as long as the book itself, but there are some people
I particularly want to thank. Carolyn Dale and Tim Pilgrim, for
kiwis, rhubarb, and great meals; Mary Jean Wiegert and Bruce
Underwood for rutabagas and a memorable evening in their fabu
lous kitchen; Robert (Goldtooth) Ray, for taste testing both the suc
cesses and the stranger experiments; Mark Musick, Bruce Naftaly,
Jon Kemnitzer, Deb Anderson-Frey, Marilyn Lewis, Gale Lawrence,
Bill Bowes, and Kristen Barber for recipes and encouragement;
Curt Madison, for 40 + years of friendship and that moose roast;
Bruce Brown, for Sumas days and for reminding me about my gar
den journals; my friend and agent Anne Depue; and my family
Deshanna Brown, Laurel, Ronny and Hailey Tul1, and Andrew
Tul1-for loving me.
acknowledgments ~ IX ~
preface to
the new edition
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When I wrote the first Winter Harvest, I was married with young
children. We lived on a homestead farm on the Canadian border
where we milked the cow, made our own butter, raised calves,
chickens, turkeys and hogs and grew nearly all our own vegetables
and fruit. I cooked on a woodstove and had yet to use a food proces
sor or a mIcrowave.
I've regretted that I didn't keep a consistent journal of that
time, but when I reread the book, I realized that it does serve as
a kind of record. It has lots of slow-cooked recipes of the sort that
can simmer for hours at the back of the woodstove. Its meat dishes
featured beef, chicken, and pork, which we raised, rather than
seafood, which we didn't. I don't eat lamb or veal, so there are no
recipes for them in either edition. Most recipes are simple and flex
ible. I was a homesteader, a writer and editor, a part-time profes
sor, and a wife and mom. I didn't have the time or the audience for
elaborate dishes. But they also reflect my lifelong interest in world
cuisines. (This was first manifest when I was four, living in Mexico,
and entranced with fire-roasted grasshoppers, and it has only in
creased with time.)
Twenty years later, I am single and a grandmother. I teach
high school, and I live on a small lot in town. I still garden year
round, but the livestock is gone along with the woodstove. I have
a microwave, a food processor, and even a bread machine. What
hasn't changed is my appreciation of local food and sustainable
practices, and my conviction that eating with the seasons is best
for our health, our palate and our planet. I'm writing this in April.
The local stores and even my food co-op are stocked with Califor
nia strawberries and Mexican tomatoes, both big and beautiful and
preface to the new edition ~ Xl ~
nearly interchangeable in their lack of flavor. My garden kale, on
the other hand, is making its last, sweetest growth spurt before it
goes to seed. It's much tastier than those far-from-home tomatoes,
and it doesn't cost $3.50 a pound. At the farmers market on Satur
days, I can already get collards, leeks, beets, spinach, potatoes,
radishes and salad mixes, plus local bread, cheese, eggs, meat and
fish. The growth of the Bellingham Farmers Market, from the
1980s when I used to sell my extra leeks and chard from a make
shift booth next to the bus station to its current iconic status as
the place to meet, greet, and eat on Saturdays from April through
December, has fueled a corresponding explosion of small farms
and market gardens. "Big A" agriculture is under siege in Northwest
Washington as elsewhere, with acreage dwindling under pressure
from development, but the number of small truck farms and Com
munity Supported Agriculture programs is growing yearly.
Town dwellers are also in on the act. Although I no longer raise
chickens, on my city block alone there are laying flocks, domestic
ducks, and miniature Nigerian milk goats. Mine is far from the only
front yard where edibles including strawberries, rainbow chard,
red orach, and blueberry bushes are thriving among the more tradi
tional ornamentals. I have potatoes growing in a tub on my deck,
apple trees espaliered along the fence, hardy kiwis twining with
the clematis and climbing up into the overgrown California lilac.
Artichokes spike up next to foxgloves, and raspberries arch over the
tulips and daylilies, all watered from my collection of rain barrels.
Our neighborhood coffee stand got so many requests for their
grounds that they now bag up their little discs of spent espresso
grounds and leave them out by the alley for gardeners to pick up.
Lacking manure, I use the high-nitrogen grounds to jumpstart my
compost, which is slowly converting the long-neglected dirt in my
yard into actual soil.
In the first edition, I wrote about environmental and nutritional
reasons to eat locally produced food. Since then the alarms of global
climate change have added urgency to this idea. I don't feel compe-
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