Table Of ContentWHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES?
SELECTED PAPERS
ON ANCIENT ART AND ARCHITECTURE
SERIES EDITOR
MIREILLE M. LEE
Number 3
What Shall I Say of Clothes?
Theoretical and Methodological Approaches to the Study of Dress in Antiquity
WHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES?
Theoretical and Methodological Approaches
to the Study of Dress in Antiquity
edited by
Megan Cifarelli
and
Laura Gawlinski
Archaeological Institute of America
Boston, MA
2017
WHAT SHALL I SAY OF CLOTHES?
Theoretical and Methodological Approaches
to the Study of Dress in Antiquity
Copyright 2017 by the Archaeological Institute of America
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by
means of any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permit-
ted by the 1976 Copyright Act or in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission
should be addressed in writing to The Archaeological Institute of America, 656 Beacon
Street, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02215-2006 USA.
ISBN 978-1-931909-34-1
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016960593
Printed in the United States on acid-free paper.
Contents
Acknowledgments vii
Introduction ix
Part 1. Getting Dressed
Kiersten Neumann 3
Gods among Men: Fashioning the Divine Image in Assyria
Josephine A. Verduci 25
Early Iron Age Adornment within Southern Levantine Mor-
tuary Contexts: An Argument for Existential Significance in
Understanding Material Culture
Part 2. Being Dressed
Alissa M. Whitmore 47
Fascinating Fascina: Apotropaic Magic and How to Wear a Penis
Eric Beckman 67
Color-Coded: The Relationship between Color, Iconography,
and Theory in Hellenistic and Roman Gemstones
Alexis Q. Castor 83
Surface Tensions on Etruscan and Greek Gold Jewelry
Megan Cifarelli 101
Costly Choices: Signaling Theory and Dress in Period IVb
Hasanlu, Iran
Part 3. Dress and Identity
Ayşe Bursalı, Rana Özbal, Emma Baysal, Hadi Özbal, Barış Yağcı 123
Neolithic Blue Beads in Northwest Turkey: The Social Signi-
ficance of Skeuomorphism
143 Neville McFerrin
Fabrics of Inclusion: Deep Wearing and the Potentials of
Materiality on the Apadana Reliefs
161 Laura Gawlinski
Theorizing Religious Dress
179 Elizabeth Wueste
The Costumes of Late Antique Honorific Monuments:
Conformity and Divergence within the Public and Political
Sphere
203 Maura K. Heyn
Western Men, Eastern Women? Dress and Cultural Identity
in Roman Palmyra
221 List of Contributors
Acknowledgments
The editors of this volume would like to thank the Editori-
al Board of Selected Papers in Ancient Art and Architecture
for selecting the papers presented at the 2016 Annual Meet-
ing of the Archaeological Institute of America, and Series
Editor Mireille Lee for entrusting us with it. We are grateful
to the AIA and the Kress Foundation, which funds this se-
ries, for allowing this volume to include papers presented at
ASOR. The opportunity to cross disciplinary and geographi-
cal boundaries has made this volume much richer.
List of Contributors
Emma L. Baysal is a lecturer in prehistory at Trakya Univer-
sity (Edirne, Turkey). She is a specialist in prehistoric person-
al ornaments whose research interests include the technolo-
gies of ornament manufacture, long-distance contacts traced
through ornaments, and social implications of their use. She
currently works at a number of prehistoric sites in Turkey.
Eric Beckman is a Ph.D. candidate in classical studies at In-
diana University Bloomington. He currently holds an intern-
ship at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Malibu. His work focuses
on Greek literature and Roman material culture, including
interplays between art and text, ekphrasis, early astronomy
and cosmology, and Hellenistic and Roman gemstones.
Ayşe Bursalı is pursuing an MA in prehistoric archaeology
at Koç University (Istanbul, Turkey). She is the cofounder,
editor, and contributing author of the archaeology website
Arkeofili. She is the manager of the Anatolian Weights and
Measures Collection at the Pera Museum in Istanbul.
Megan Cifarelli is currently professor and chair of Art His-
tory at Manhattanville College in Purchase, NY. She is an art
historian whose work ranges from Assyrian relief sculptures
to dress items from the first millennium B.C.E. in northwest-
ern Iran, with a theoretical focus on gender, identity, and em-
bodied experience.
Laura Gawlinski is associate professor and chair of Classical
Studies at Loyola University Chicago. Her research involves
combining epigraphy and archaeology to investigate how an-
cient Greek religion was practiced. She is active in fieldwork
and has been associated with the excavations of the Athenian
Agora since 1995.
Maura Heyn is an associate professor in the Department
of Classical Studies at The University of North Carolina at
Greensboro. She has published on various aspects of Pal-
myrene portraiture, and her research focuses on funerary art
Contributors
as a method used by provincial inhabitants to create social
identities for themselves after Roman conquest.
Neville McFerrin received her Ph.D. in classical art and ar-
chaeology from the University of Michigan. She is currently
a Visiting Assistant Professor in the Department of Classics,
Philosophy, and Religion at Sweet Briar College. Her ongo-
ing work focuses on the interactions between power, gender,
and dress in Pompeii.
Kiersten Neumann is curator and research associate at The
Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago, having re-
ceived her Ph.D. from the University of California, Berkeley
with a dissertation on the Neo-Assyrian temple. She special-
izes in Mesopotamian visual culture and built environments,
with a focus on sensory experience, ritualized practice, and
cultural modes of viewing and representation.
Hadi Özbal is professor emeritus of chemistry and the direc-
tor of the Archaeometry Research Center at Boğaziçi Univer-
sity (Istanbul, Turkey). He has been conducting archaeomet-
ric investigations on archaeometallurgy and ancient residues
across sites in Turkey for the past three decades and has been
working at Barcın Höyük since the project began in 2007.
Rana Özbal is assistant professor of archaeology at Koç Uni-
versity (Istanbul, Turkey) in the Department of Archaeology
and History of Art and a specialist of the prehistory of Ana-
tolia. After serving as field director in the excavation of the
sixth-millennium levels at Tell Kurdu (Hatay, Turkey) she
co-directed the Barcın Höyük Project (Bursa, Turkey) be-
tween 2007 and 2015.
Josephine Verduci completed her Ph.D. in archaeology
(2016) at the University of Melbourne, titled “Metal Jewel-
lery of the Southern Levant and its Western Neighbours:
Cross-Cultural Influences in the Early Iron Age Eastern
Mediterranean.” She is a Research Fellow of the Australian
Institute of Archaeology (AIA) and has published several pa-
pers on Aegean and Near Eastern archaeology.
Alissa Whitmore (Ph.D. University of Iowa) is an archaeolo-
gist who has taught at the University of Iowa and Des Moines
Area Community College. In her dissertation, she catalogued
artifacts from Roman public and military bathhouse drains
222
