Table Of ContentMedieval Church Studies 12
Weaving, Veiling,
and Dressing
Textiles andt heir Metaphors
in the Late Middle Ages
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Edited by
Kathryn M. Rudy and Barbara Baert
W eaving , Veiling , and D ressing
MEDIEVAL CHURCH STUDIES
12
W eaving , Veiling , and D ressing
Textiles and their Metaphors in the Late Middle Ag
Edited by
Kathryn M. Rudy and Barbara Baert
BREPOLS
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Weaving, veiling, and dressing : textiles and their metaphors in the late Middle Ages.
- (Medieval church studies ; 12)
1. Textile fabrics - Religious aspects 2. Textile fabrics - Europe - History 3. Christian
art and symbolism - Medieval, 500-1500
I. Rudy, Kathryn M. II. Baert, Barbara 246.2
ISBN-13: 9782503515274
© 2007, Brepols Publishers n.v., Turnhout, Belgium
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the publisher.
D/2007/0095/1
ISBN: 978-2-503-51527-4
Printed in the E.U. on acid-free paper
Contents
List of Figures vii
List of Plates xix
Introduction: Miraculous Textiles in Exempla and Images i
from the Low Countries
KATHRYN M. RUDY
Part One: Weaving
Weaving 39
BARBARA BAERT
Weaving Mary’s Chaplet: The Representation of the Rosary 41
in Late Medieval Flemish Manuscript Illumination
ANNE MARGREET W. AS-VIJVERS
Praying, Threading, and Adorning: Sewn-in Prints in a 81
Rosary Prayer Book (London, British Library, Add. MS 14042)
HANNEKE VAN ASPEREN
The Representation and Meaning of Luxurious Textiles in 121
Fran co-Flemish Manuscript Illumination
MARGARET L. GOEHRING
Part Two: Veiling
Veiling 159
BARBARA BAERT
Raising the Curtain on the Use of Textiles in Manuscripts 161
CHRISTINE SCIACCA
Curtains, Revelatio, and Pictorial Reality in Late Medieval 191
Renaissance Italy
VICTOR M. SCHMIDT
Mantle, Fur, Pallium: Veiling and Unveiling in the 215
Martyrdom of Agnes of Rome
BARBARA BAERT
Part Three: Dressing
Dressing 241
BARBARA BAERT
The Clothing of Poverty and Sanctity in Legends, and 245
their Representations in Trecento and Quattrocento Italy
PHILINE HELAS
Clothing, Exposure, and the Depiction of Sin in Passion 289
Iconography
MARTHA BAYLESS
Swaddled or Shrouded? The Interpretation of‘Chrysom’ 307
Effigies on Late Medieval Tomb Monuments
SOPHIE OOSTERWIJK
List of Contributors 349
Index
353
List of Figures
1. St John on Patmos, Hours of Philip of Cleves, Brussels, Koninklijke
Bibliotheek, MS IV 40, fol. 15". Flanders, c. 1485. Reproduced with
permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek.
2. The Virgin weaving, The Collins Hours, Philadelphia, The Philadelphia
Museum of Art, MS 1945-65-4, fol. I73v. Amiens or Bruges, c. 1440.
Photography courtesy of Lynn Rosenthal. Reproduced with permission
of the Philip S. Collins Collection, The Philadelphia Museum of Art.
3. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop
washing his hands before Mass, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht,
Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS 400, fol. ir. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450.
Reproduced with permission of the Universiteitsbibliotheek.
4. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop
blessing liturgical vestments, and marginal illumination depicting women
weaving, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS
400, fol. 99r. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of
the Universiteitsbibliotheek.
5. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Historiated initial depicting a bishop
consecrating a group of deacons, with liturgical vestments in the margin,
The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS 400, fol.
I7r. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of the
Universiteitsbibliotheek.
6. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Detail of a marginal image depicting the
pallium, The Utrecht Pontifical, Utrecht, Universiteitsbibliotheek, MS
Vili List ofF igures
400, fol. 36'. Probably Utrecht, c. 1450. Reproduced with permission of
the Universiteitsbibliotheek.
7. Willem Vrelant. Martyrdom of Thomas of Canterbury, the so-called
Book of Hours of Catherine of Aragon, The Hague, Koninklijke
Bibliotheek, 76 F 7, fol. 20v. Flanders, c. 1460. Reproduced with
permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek.
8. Christ’s seamless garment and the five wounds of Christ, The Hague,
Koninklijke Bibliotheek, KA 36, fob j6v (on permanent loan from the
Koninklijke Nederlandse Academie van Wetenschappen). Brabant,
c. 1390. Reproduced with permission of the Koninklijke Bibliotheek.
9. The Virgin in a radiant sunburst, seen through a torn curtain beside a
hairshirt, The Hours of Jean Lallemant le Jeune, Baltimore, The Walters
Art Museum, MS W.446, fob ijb Tours or Bourges, c. 1519—20.
Reproduced with permission of The Walters Art Museum.
10. Blindfolded Christ, Book of Hours, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek
135 F 2, fob 152b Delft, 1460—80. Reproduced with permission of the
Koninklijke Bibliotheek.
11. Masters of the Gold Scrolls. Christ’s winding cloth as one of the
instruments of the Passion, London, British Library, MS Harley 3828, fob
69'. Bruges or environs, c. 1445. Reproduced with permission of the
British Library.
12. Historiated initial with St Margaret, and marginal illumination with St
Margaret and the Dragon, The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek, 133 E 14,
fob 59'. Flanders, c. 1500—10. Reproduced with permission of the
Koninklijke Bibliotheek.
13. Master of Catherine of Cleves. Annunciation, with the Virgin wearing a
letter mantle, Hours of Catharina van Lochorst, Münster, Westfälisches
Landesmuseum für Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte, MS 530 LM, fob i6v.
Utrecht?, c. 1440—50. Reproduced with permission of the Westfälisches
Landesmuseum für Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte.
14. Simone Martini. Madonna della Misericordia (Virgin of Mercy), Siena,
Pinacoteca Nazionale. Siena, c. 1308. Reproduced with permission of
Scala/Art Resource, New York.
