Table Of ContentWATER WAVES
THE WYKEHAM SCIENCE SERIES
fors chooalnsd u niversities
General Editors:
ProfesSsiorNr e viMlolt tF,. R.S.
CavendiPsrho fesosfoP rh ysics
UniversoiftC ya mbridge
R.N oakes
G.
FormerSleyn ioPrh ysiMcass ter
UppinghaSmc hool
broadetnh eo utlooofkt hes enigorra mmasrc hooplu pil
To
andt oi ntrodtuhceeu ndergradtuoat theep resesntta toef
scienacsea universsittuyd iys t he aoifmt heW ykeham
SciencSee riesE.a chb ooks eektso reinfotrhciels i nk
betweesnc hooaln du niverslietvye alnsd,t hem aina uthor,
a universtietayc hdeirs tinguiinst hheefid e ldi,sa ssisbtye d
ane xperiensciexdt h-fsocrhmo olmaster.
WATER WAVES
� rbe-rU niversoiftW ye llington
N. F.�
Assisbtye d
G.G hey
WYKEHAMP UBLICAT(ILOONNSD OLNT)D
(As ubsiodfTi aayrl&y oF rr anLctids)
LONDONW INCHESTER
&
1969
Firpsutb li1s9h6be9ydW ykehPaumb lic(aLtoinodLnotsnd ).
© 196N9.F .B arbAelrrl.i grhetsse rNvoep adr.ot ft hpiusb lication
mayb er eprodsutcoeirdnea, rd e trsiyesvtaoelrtm r,a nsmiinat ntye d,
foromrb ya nmye anesl,e ctronic,p homteocchoarpneyiciconargld,,i ng,
oro therwwiitsheto,hup etr ipoerr miosfts hiceoo np yroiwgnhetr .
Covielrl ustbryca otuirootnfeK seyy stPorneAesg se nLctyd .
851009605
PrinitnGe rde Barti tbayiT na yloFrr anLctids.
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Worwliddd ei striebxuctloutndhW,iee n sgt Heermni spIhnedrPieaa,k, i stan
anJda pabnyA, s sociated BoLotdk.L ,oP nudbaolnniAd sn hdeorvse,r .
PREFACE
ocacsionnuamle riilctlarulas tiinot nhbseo oakr ien S Iu nits
THE
excewphtei ritems o rceov neniteoun stke n oatnssd e mai lseots h at
distarnetcleiea nass impwlateyo d egroeflet asid teou na c ha.r Itn
accorwdiatnwhch eas te etmosb et hper etsc eovnneinotnS,Iu nits
arneo gti vaenn' si'nt hpel ursaotl h,a t tshepea kotsfae w xatv e
havianp ge rioof2d 0s econnod2t,0 s ecoanndadsw ,a veleonfg th
300m erten,o 3t0 m0e ters.T he s' 'ha bse erne tahionweediv ne r
spkeianogfm inust,mei lheosu,ar nsdd e groefae rswe h,i achrn eo t
uniitnts h SeI s ytsem.
Them athemaatrigcuatmlsew ,nh icahr em aincloyn finteod
chap2ta enr3ds,a ssuamnae c uqaintwaintcchae l ctuol uetsxh tee nt
ofk nowitnhdgei fferecnoteeiffinactlois f stihnaeen cdo sainnoedf
powerosft hvea irablEex.pn oentfinuaclt iaornaesl usso ebdu t an
expltainoiansg iviennt htee xSto.m oef t hfero mulsaheo uld
preorplbyew ritwtietnth h es ymbfoolpr ra tidaielffr entiation
0
(sae xplaiinan f eoodt nobtuett)h o edr irnyad h abse erne taiinn ed
ana tmtpett oa viodg ivitnogos traannga ep eparance to the
mathecmsa.t i
Welgltionn
Juyl1 699 N. F.
BARBER
v
LISTO F SYMBOLS
Thes ymbolisn t uhse efdto eprxh ty sqiucaanlt airtaeisf el osl o:w s
A and fovre rtaincdha orli zoanmtpalli toufpd aerst icle
B
motiionanw av(ehc a.p1 )
A foarc rostsi-osanerace(lhac a .p 32),
anbd foarm pliitnut dwehosa rmomnoitci (ohcnas.p 4)
a
foarc ceertlaio(hnca .p1 2,)
a
fowra vsep eed
c
(anhd)f odre pitnwh a ter
D
g foarc crealtediuoteno g ravity
fowra ve-bneuormr2 7Tj(vwealength)
k
L or foarl negtohrd istance
I
M or foarm ass
m
p foprr essure
q fotrh sep eoefadp ratiwchleeqr2 e= u2+ v2+ w2
foarr addiiaslt ance
r
t fotri me
forret cangrcu olmapeonntosfp rativcellteoy c i
u,v ,w
forre ctancgoumnlpeaonrot fps os ition
x,y ,z
Theg reseykmo bluss eidnt htee axrt:e
(lapha)a na fnogirln re a dmieaans ure
0:
or( edlttao) deans omtacelh la nogrde ie ffrence
� 8
(tehtaf)o arna ngle
e
7T( pif)o3 r. .1..4
1>( phfio)tr h vee clioptoyt eentxipallai intn hetede xt
VI
CONTENTS
Prfaece v
Chatper LOOKINAGT WAVES 1
1
The waviesn ot wtahteea rc-celearnadtt hifeoa nl se
verlt-isceaetkhiseni gme psiltd -egauesstihmneo gt ion
inaw ave-stpheeoe fwd a vetsi-daenstd s unamis
Chpaetr THE MOTIONO F FRICTIONLESS
2 A
FLUID 20
Physidcesaw lista hn' ideawloidrz-letdhi'ed eflauli d
thec ircultahteio-orwnea mveasr ea ni rtraotional
mot-itohnev ecliotpyot entialt-orh eopwrn tea sne
incomprfleusiisdnim abtlhee matics
Chpaetr THES PEEODF WAA VE-TARIN 36
3
Ivnentia n'gts eadsyt a'-t geuessian fgo rmula-the
seapratoifvo anr i-aabf lroemsufloapr r seusre-testing
thfero mulaf-roam ufloawr a voevs earfl aste a-bed
the oeftn hdme a thematics
Chpaetr MAKINGU PW AVEP ATTERNS 56
4
Wavegso itnhgse a mwea y-wagvoeison pgop siwtaey s
wavecsr oisnsg-wabvteewse efno uwra l-lsseicihne s
lkaes-rotwaatviensg- wianv ersae ctanbgsauilnar
circwualvaerrs i-ppolrse usr,f taecnesw iaovne s
Chpaetr GROUPOSF W AVES 76
5
Thec duoubshe avioofau g rr ooufpw avesf-roam ula
fotrh ger ovuepcl ioty-ttrhaeov fes lw eilntl h Neo rth
Atlantitcr-asvweefllrlloi mn gC apteoC oHrwonarlnl
swemlolv itnhgr otuigdshat lr eamst-rsawveefllrllo imn g
AustrtaoCl aiilaf orniean-etrihgnewy a v-eosbserving
waveasts ae-wavienss itdhseee (ait nernwaalv es)
wavceosm iansgrh eo-rreafctoifwo anv es
vii
MOREA BOUTS EAW AVES 120
Chapter 6
Hows ewaa vecsa ns hakteh eo ceabnde -detecting
micrsomsse-itbheteao ft hseu rf-intvehinedt oeifaan g
correlcaoffiteceiinotnm- esauricnogr trieolnass-utrhfe
baeta ntdh seu rges
Chpaetr THEW AKEO FA SHPI
7 118
Howw avsepsr efarodmc ean- teraecwha vcer easctc eler
ates-constthrpeuta ctteoirfnnt g h wea koefa s hip
thec ritsipceaielnd s halwlaotwe r-wtahvee -making
resisttoaas nhcirepi -pwpalkeae rsae h enaodbt,e hind
thsem oothl etbfrytaas chki wpa-vreisd insgt roenam s
thwei nd tahtneid -d ceawna veemse rfgreot mh pel ace
whetrhee byr e?a-kg oodbye
A Posptts cri 104
SujbceItn dex 141
ThWey keShearmi es 134
Siceena cnTde cohlnolg ica
VIll
CHAPTER
1
lookiantgw aves
peopswlietm h roburgeha wkaievnsg.T hey ddoiwvunen der
SOME
eacwha vaen sdw itmh roausig tph a sosveestr h em.
Other rpaebcooepta ltseh rotuhgsehu rtfh,o uognwheo uslcda rcely
thiintpk o ssible.
Fig1.. 1P.eo pdloei nsgo methwiintgwh a ves.
Otheurssseu -rbfrodatsor idtehw ea evs.P eopfleaeen lu rge to
dos omtehiwnigtw ha v.e s
Sompee oplliekt eoa rgaubeo wuatv easn,d itsha ib so ofko r
peopwlheol itkoea rgaubeo tuhte m.
Whatia sw ave?
Ify ouw attchhse e far otmh seh oyroeuc asno mettirmaeacs e
wave awlalay s itc tho em ienfs r otmh oep esne aF.i rals ot ngo fl ine
shadsocwu ndgdt iowatrhdlesa ntdh,ea nno bviroiudsog fwe a ter
1
2
