Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps: The Mercantour and Alpi Marittime Parks

225 Pages·2016·102.53 MB·English

by  Gillian Price

WALKS AND TREKS
IN THE MARITIME ALPS
About the Author
Gillian Price was born in England but moved to Australia when young. After
taking a degree in anthropology and working in adult education, she set
off to travel through Asia and trek the Himalayas. The culmination of her
journey was Venice where, her enthusiasm fired for mountains, the next
logical step was towards the Dolomites, only hours away. Starting there,
Gillian is steadily exploring the mountain ranges of Italy and bringing them
to life for visitors in a series of outstanding guides for Cicerone.
When not out walking and photographing with Nicola, her Venetian
cartographer husband, Gillian works as a freelance journalist and translator
(www.gillianprice.eu). An adamant promoter of the use of public transport
to minimise impact in Alpine areas, Gillian is an active member of the
Italian Alpine Club and Mountain Wilderness.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
Walking and Trekking on Corfu Gran Paradiso: Alta Via 2 Trek and
Walking on the Amalfi Coast Day Walks
Walking on Corsica Italy’s Sibillini National Park
Walking in the Central Italian Alps The Tour of the Bernina
Walking in the Dolomites Trekking in the Alps (contributor)
Shorter Walks in the Dolomites Trekking in the Apennines – the
Walking the Italian Lakes Grande Escursione Appenninica
Walking in Italy’s Stelvio National (GEA)
Park Trekking in the Dolomites
Walking in Sicily Through the Italian Alps – the
Walking in Tuscany Grande Traversata delle Alpi
Walking in Umbria (GTA)
Across the Eastern Alps: E5 Alpine Flowers
WALKS AND TREKS
IN THE MARITIME ALPS
by
Gillian Price
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
www.cicerone.co.uk
© Gillian Price 2016
Second edition 2016
ISBN: 978 1 85284 845 3
First edition 2010
Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Dedication
To little Bet and Dave, always a great inspiration!
Acknowledgements
My appetite for the divine Maritimes had been whetted on the GTA trek, so I
didn’t need much persuading when Nanni Villani of the Parco Naturale delle
Alpi Marittime suggested I introduce the anglosassoni to the delights of these
Mediterranean-scented mountains. Luckily Jonathan agreed to publish!
It goes without saying – but still warrants writing – that I truly appreciate the
companionship and support of my beloved Nick on this, ‘another’, guidebook.
The company of the Story family was also enjoyed on some of these
marvellous pathways.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide-
books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition.
Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website
(www.cicerone.co.uk/845/updates), so please check before planning your
trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as trans-
port, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered
over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies
between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@
cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY,
United Kingdom. 
Front cover: One of the beautiful Fremamorta lakes in early summer
(Walks 11 and 14).
CONTENTS
Overview map ................................................. 6
Map key ...................................................... 7
Location of walks ............................................. 8–9
INTRODUCTION
The Maritime Alps ............................................. 11
Walking ..................................................... 12
Wildflowers .................................................. 16
Wildlife ..................................................... 18
Exploring the Maritime Alps ...................................... 23
Local information .............................................. 32
Access ...................................................... 33
When to go .................................................. 34
Accommodation ............................................... 35
Camping ..................................................... 38
Dos and don’ts ................................................ 39
What to take .................................................. 42
Maps ....................................................... 43
Emergencies .................................................. 44
Using this guide ............................................... 45
WALKS
Walk 1 Fontanalba rock engravings circuit ....................... 47
Walk 2 Mont Bégo loop ..................................... 51
Walk 3 Vallée de la Roya to Vallée de Vésubie .................... 60
Walk 4 Upper Vallée de la Gordolasque ......................... 83
Walk 5 Lacs de Prals circuit .................................. 88
Walk 6 Ancient passes above Madone de Fenestre ................. 92
Walk 7 Vallon du Haut Boréon circuit .......................... 98
Walk 8 Lacs Bessons ........................................ 99
Walk 9 Around the Argentera ................................ 105
Walk 10 Lac des Adus loop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Walk 11 The Great Lakes tour ................................. 125
Walk 12 The Alpi Marittime trek ............................... 135
Walk 13 The Valasco tour .................................... 160
Walk 14 The Fremamorta loop ................................ 165
Walk 15 Rifugio Bozano ..................................... 169
Walk 16 Rifugio Remondino and Lago di Nasta ................... 173
Walk 17 Vallone di Lourousa ................................. 176
Walk 18 Traversing Colle di Fenestrelle .......................... 180
Walk 19 Rifugio Pagari loop .................................. 185
Walk 20 Vallon del Vei del Bouc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Walk 21 Gorge della Reina ................................... 198
Walk 22 Vallone degli Alberghi ............................... 202
Walk 23 Costa di Planard .................................... 207
Walk 24 The border forts .................................... 210
Appendix A Route summary table ............................... 215
Appendix B Useful contacts .................................... 217
Appendix C French–English and Italian–English glossaries ............. 219
Mont
Blanc
4807m
area covered
MILANO in this book
GRENOBLE
TORINO
ITALY
FRANCE
CUNEO
GENOVA
St Martin Tende
MARITIME ALPS
VENTIMIGLIA
NICE Menton
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
CORSICA
6
Map key
Map Key
road
walk route
variant route
park boundary
international boundary
river/lake
tunnel
railway
glacier peak
S start point chapel/church
F finish point pass
SF start/finish point bivouac hut
1 walk number route direction arrow
town/village direction arrow
PP parking old fort
refuge or hotel * viewpoint
7
Walks and Treks in The MariTiMe alps
VA
SANT’ANNA
DI VALDIERI
ENTR
12
ITALY
TERME DI
VALDIERI
13
17
15
SAN
Argentera GIACOMO
FRANCE 11 14 16
9 18
20
10 8 19
LE BORÉON 7 6
D89 Madone de 3
Fenestre
D94 5
ST-MARTIN-VÉSUBIE ue
q
Vallée de Vésubie D2565 Vallée de la Gordolas
ROQUEBILLIÈRE BELVÉDÈRE
to Nice
8
locaTion of Walks
to Cuneo
Gesso to Cuneo
Valle Location of walks
VALDIERI
SS20 Valle
Ver
m
e
ENTRACQUE nag
21 VERNANTE na
TRINITÀ
23 LIMONE
PALANFRÉ PIEMONTE
22
PARCO NATURALE DELLE
ALPI MARITTIME
24
Col de Tende
V
a
20 llé
e
d
e
la
VIEVOLA R
o
y
a
Vall
4 o
2 1n de
Castéri CASTÉRINO TENDE
Mont Bégo no LA
D91 BRIGUE
ST DALMAS
PARC
DE-TENDE
NATIONAL DU
MERCANTOUR
oya
D6204de la R
to Nice Vallée
9