Table Of ContentWalking Macao, Reading the Baroque
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INSTITUTO CULTURAL do Governo da R.A.E. de Macau
Hong Kong University Press
14/F Hing Wai Centre
7 Tin Wan Praya Road
Aberdeen
Hong Kong
© Jeremy Tambling and Louis Lo 2009
ISBN 978-962-209-937-1 Hardback
ISBN 978-962-209-938-8 Paperback
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A catalogue copy for this book is available from the British Library.
Printed and bound by United League Graphic & Binding Co. Ltd. in Hong Kong, China
Table of Contents
List of Illustrations vi Chapter 7 118
Walling the City
Preface ix
Chapter 8 136
Chapter 1 2 Macao’s Chinese Architecture
Learning from Macao: An Introduction
Chapter 9 158
Chapter 2 20 Colonialism and Modernity
Seven Libraries
Chapter 10 180
Chapter 3 38 Camões and the Casa Garden
Igreja e Seminário São José
(St Joseph’s Seminary and Church) Chapter 11 198
Is Postmodern Macao’s Architecture
Chapter 4 60 Baroque?
Igreja de São Domingos
(Church of St Dominic) Chapter 12 224
Death in Macao
Chapter 5 80
Ruínas de São Paulo Notes 234
(Ruins of St Paul’s)
Glossary of Terms 249
Chapter 6 98
Neo-Classicism Index of Macao Places 254
General Index 256
Walking Macao,
Reading the Baroque
Illustrations
Chapter 1 20. Baptism of Christ, painting kept at São
Learning from Macao: An Introduction Domingos 41
1. Senado Square 2 21. Façade of São José 42
2. Southwest Macao including Santa Sancha 4 22. Dome and skyline 45
3. Dom Pedro V Theatre and St Augustine’s 23. View of interior of São José 46
Church 6 24. Overview of the interior of São José —
4. Moongate, Mandarin’s House 8 from the right 48
5 Leal Senado 12 25. Interior of St Augustine 51
6. Leslie Cheung 13 26. ‘Angels and skull’ (tablet on the left) 54
7. Government House by night 14 27. ‘Mourning mother’ (tablet on the right) 55
28. Fragment of hand and skull, relic kept at
São Domingos 57
Chapter 2
Seven Libraries
8. Interior of library, Jardim de São Francisco 20 Chapter 4
9. Library in the Leal Senado 23 Igreja de São Domingos (Church of St Dominic)
10. Library at Coloane 24 29. Igreja de São Domingos 60
11. Taipa Library 26 30. View of Leal Senado 61
12. Tap Seac Square 28 31. Associação de Benefi cência dos Naturais de
13. Library for Macao archives 29 Sei Iap de Macau 62
14. Exterior of library, Jardim de São Francisco 30 32. Three streets 64
15. Biblioteca Municipal Sr. Wong Ieng Kuan 32 33. Shrine in Sam Kai 65
16. Intersection between new and old library 33 34. Former bank behind São Domingos 66
17. Well in the in-between space 34 35. Cross formed by walls 68
36. Cat looking back 69
37. View of north aisle in São Domingos 70
Chapter 3 38. View of the baldacchino in São Domingos 72
Igreja e Seminário S ão José (St Joseph’s 39. Christ tied to a column 73
Seminary and Church) 40. Painting of Christ showing burning heart 74
18. Side view of façade 38 41. Relic: feet and hands 75
19. Distant view of São José 39 42. St Teresa at São Domingos 78
vi
List of Illustrations
Chapter 5 Chapter 7
Ruínas de São Paulo (Ruins of St Paul’s) Walling the City
43. Night overview of São Paulo 80 65. Walls along the Praya Grande 118
44. Upper two storeys 82 66. City walls 120
45. The fi rst, second and third levels 84 67. View from temple: towards the mainland 122
46. Devil 86 68. Guia Chapel — roof 125
47. Skeleton 87 69. John the Baptist and wall 126
48. Older temple of Na Tcha 89 70. Eagles in stone 128
49. Folding of the older temple of Na Tcha 90 71. Lion and fl oral design 129
50. Skull, cross and urn at Santa Casa da 72. Angels in cartouche 130
Misericórdia 92 73. Angels fl ying and playing 132
51. Painting: The Martyrs of Japan 93 74. Moorish Barracks 134
52. Gate with a view of the back of the façade 97
Chapter 8
Chapter 6 Macao’s Chinese Architecture
Neo-Classicism 75. Trees and houses, Coloane 136
53. St Anthony’s Church, cross 98 76. Tam Kung temple and rock 137
54. Santa Casa da Misericórdia 100 77. Lou Lim Ioc Garden: view from a false hill 138
55. Fountain outside the Cathedral 103 78. Verandah of the western house in the
56. St Lazarus’ Church, with cross 104 Lou Lim Ioc Garden 140
57. Angel of Judgement and well 106 79. Lou Lim Ioc Garden: nine-turn bridge
58. The Archangel Michael 107 and pavilion 141
59. St Paul’s College 110 80. Garden in Ho Tung Library 142
60. St Lawrence’s Church 111 81. Exterior of Lou Kau mansion 145
61. St Lawrence’s Church 113 82. Theatrical space 147
62. View of colonial house 114 83. Garden and stained glass together 149
63. Front view of colonial house 115 84. Stained glass 150
64. Lilau Square 116 85. Mandarin’s House 152
86. A-Ma temple 154
87. Exterior of main hall 156
vii
Walking Macao,
Reading the Baroque
Chapter 9 Chapter 11
Colonialism and Modernity Is Postmodern Macao’s Architecture Baroque?
88. Interior of A-Ma temple 158 109. View of Sands from Museum of
89. Inner Harbour road 161 Fine Arts 198
90. Street scene 162 110. Legislative Assembly 199
91. Street scene (2) 162 111. Court of Final Appeal 201
92. Shrine 163 112. Kindergarten Dom José da Costa Nunes 202
93. Temple of the Snake Goddess 165 113. Kindergarten Dom José da Costa Nunes 204
94. The interior of Temple 166 114. Taipa fi re station 207
95. Reproduction of Chinnery 168 115. Courtyard of the Inspiration
96. Our Lady of Carmel Church 171 Building 209
97. Taipa ruins 175 116. Roof-garden 210
98. The Grand Lisboa 176 117. The Educational Restaurant 212
99. Casino Lisboa 178 118. Colonnade 214
119. Colonnade and trees 216
120. Front view of church 219
Chapter 10 121. Paintings of New Testament scenes 220
Camões and the Casa Garden 122. Jesus and the Woman of Samaria 223
100. Casa Garden 180
101. Tomb of Captain Crockett 183
102. Cemetery 184 Chapter 12
103. Well in courtyard 186 Death in Macao
104. Grotto 187 123. Colosseum 224
105. Imperial Power: c17 wooden statue, the 124. Doge’s Palace, Macao 228
Archangel Michael, St Paul’s; compare 125. Ceiling at the Venetian Resort 230
photographs 57 and 58 190
106. Mount Fortress (detail) 193
107. Overview of square outside São Francisco
Xavier 195
108. Paintings in São Francisco Xavier 196
viii
Preface
Preface
This short study complete with new photographs is more personal than comprehensive, and that one
of Macao does four things. It is a guide-book to of its keynotes is to discover, and write about, what
parts of Macao, spelled here with the old Portuguese is ‘baroque’ in Macao. A number of terms from
usage, rather than as ‘Macau’. It discusses Macao architecture, art criticism and cultural theory have
as a colonial city, as having a history of baroque art been used, and where terms are technical, they
and architecture, and as being fascinating in its own have been explained in the course of writing, and
right. It thinks about what is meant by ‘baroque’ in more detail in a glossary which appears at the
when this term is used in contemporary literary and end. But there are also gaps in the information we
critical theory. So, the book is for readers interested could obtain. There are frustrating differences in
in Macao and others who want to discover theory the attitude taken towards visitors coming to Macao
because they are working in cultural studies. Those in comparison to historical sites in Europe. Macao
who live in Hong Kong particularly will be surprised deserves a more discerning attitude towards its
at how much theory of the baroque — which past; if it had had that, there might not have been
also includes a theory of allegory, deconstruction, such destruction of its past. Visitors are kept from
postmodernism, colonialism, globalisation, and the making discoveries by the unhelpful information
phenomenology of perception — can be learned that we, for example, have sometimes received while
from Macao. The book also gives a very elementary walking the city. (No one would take responsibility
introduction to the work of Walter Benjamin — in for helping us, and seemed surprised that we were
fact, we once thought of calling the book Macao, interested in places which, in any other context,
Capital of the Sixteenth-Century. Finally, we hope it would have crowds of tourists visiting.) Sites which
will be of interest to anyone who wants to ‘read’ are listed as ‘popular’ and ‘world heritage’ are only
cities, whether baroque or global. interested in attracting consumption rather than
understanding, not to mention places which are
Armed with a digital camera, we have walked not in the list, but which are equally interesting.
the length and breadth of Macao, looking at its We have been struck by the paucity of information
architecture. Photographs were all taken by Louis about the sites. We have looked at books, talked
Lo and the text was written jointly, in Hong Kong, to people at the various sites, consulted websites,
Manchester and Macao. for information that was ultimately unattributable,
uncertain in quality, poor in quantity. Even fi nding
We have read everything we can on Macao, some decent maps has been a problem. Much information
material very informational; this book uses much found, especially on websites, has merely repeated
information gleaned in this way, but the reader or recycled other pieces of information, much of
should be warned that the selection of material here it inaccurate. Those doing cultural studies often
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