Uniform: Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World

321 Pages·2019·6.016 MB·English

by  Jane Tynan (editor), Lisa Godson (editor)

Uniform
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Uniform
Clothing and Discipline in the
Modern World
Edited by Jane Tynan and Lisa Godson
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BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
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1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA
BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
First published in Great Britain 2019
Copyright © Jane Tynan, Lisa Godson and contributors, 2019
Jane Tynan and Lisa Godson have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work.
For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on pp. xiv and 103 constitute an extension
of this copyright page.
Cover design by Adriana Brioso
Cover image: Do Ho Suh, High School Uni-Form, 1997. Fabric, plastic, stainless steel,
casters. 300 parts total. 701 × 551.2 × 137.2 cm (276 × 217 × 54 inches).
(© Do Ho Suh. Courtesy the artist; Lehman Maupin Gallery, New York,
Hong Kong and Seoul; and Victoria Miro, London/Venice)
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ISBN: HB: 978-1-350-04555-2
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Contents
List of Illustrations vii
Notes on Contributors x
Acknowledgments xiv
1 Understanding Uniform: An Introduction
Jane Tynan and Lisa Godson 1
Part One: Uniforming Political Movements
2 Th e Public Order Act: Defi ning Political Uniform in 1930s
Britain Annebella Pollen 25
3 Revolutionary Culture, Girl Power, and the Red Guard Uniform
During the Chinese Cultural Revolution L i Li 49
Part Two: Uniforming Institutions
4 Uniform Adoption in English Public Schools,
1830–1930 Kate Stephenson 67
5 Dissolving Vatican Uniform Hegemony: Th e Marist Road to
Dress Freedom William J. F. Keenan 87
Part Th ree: Uniforming Leisure
6 Fashionably Rational: Th e Evolution of Uniformed Leisure
in Late Nineteenth- Century Britain Geraldine Biddle-Perry 109
7 Uniformity in Fashion Practices During the Modernization
Period in Turkey F . Dilek Himam 135
Part Four: Uniforming Workers
8 Uniforming the Corporate Body in the City of
London S amira Guerra 161
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9 A Cast of Th ousands: Martin Grant and the New Qantas
Uniform Prudence Black 179
Part Five: Uniforming Fashion
10 Overalls: Functional, Political, Fashionable D jurdja Bartlett 201
11 Utility Chic: Where Fashion and Uniform Meet Jane Tynan 221
Part Six: Uniforming the Military
12 Military Uniform and Lethal Targeting in International Law
on Armed Confl ict A min Parsa 239
13 Military Uniforms and Women in the Ulster
Defence Regiment S tephen Herron 255
Conclusion 277
Notes 283
Select Bibliography 287
Index 295
Illustrations
1.1 Sunbathing stewardesses at Schiphol Airport, Netherlands,
1962. National Archief, Th e Netherlands. 22
2.1 Kibbo Kift men and boys in the ‘Touching of the Totems’ rite,
1925. © Kibbo Kift Foundation. 34
2.2 Remodeled Kibbo Kift uniform marking shift in group identity,
1931. © Kibbo Kift Foundation. 35
2.3 Green Shirts in street marching uniform, 1932. © Kibbo Kift
Foundation. 37
3.1 Song Binbin pins a Red Guard armband on Mao’s sleeve,
August 18, 1966. Private collection. 56
3.2 ‘Be Th is Kind of Human Being’, Poster depicting a Red Guard
in the PLA uniform and armband. People’s Fine Arts Publishing
House (Beijing, 1968). Private collection of author. 61
4.1 Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester in Eton College uniform, 1914.
Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, George
Grantham Bain Collection [LC-DIG-ggbain-15452]. 80
4.2 Advertisement for Chas. Baker & Co., c.1885 showing Eton
and Rugby suits for sale. © British Library Board [Evan. 5193]. 82
5.1 Arrayed in triumph. Photo collage of ‘the Marist Martyrs.’
Private collection. 94
5.2 Full Tridentine battle dress. Private collection. 97
5.3 Airing post- conciliar diff erences. Gathering of Brothers
attending Marist ‘renewal’ course early 1974. Private collection. 99
5.4 Unity in diversity. Marist Brothers Institute Superior General
and the Marist General Council, Rome, 1984. Private collection. 102
6.1 Royal shooting party including King Edward VII, by unknown
photographer, c . 1890s. © National Portrait Gallery, London. 117
6.2 Cyclist in tweed suit beside ‘High Ordinary’ bicycle with
equestrian saddle. London Metropolitan Archive [Image 230832] 119
6.3 Keir Hardie by Arthur Clegg Weston, c . 1892. © National
Portrait Gallery, London 123
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viii Illustrations
6.4 Young woman in rational dress advertising Elliman’s Universal
Embrocation. Wiki Commons File:Ellimans-Universal-
Embrocation-Slough-Ad.png. 125
7.1 Woman with ferace and ya  mak from İ zmir, Turkey. Apikam
archive. Author’s collection. 144
7.2 Turkish women with modern head coverings known
as s ı kmaba  . Turkey, c . 1920s. Author’s collection. 146
7.3 Example of a S ü merbank fabric with stylized fl ower patterns
decorated with geometric abstract shapes. Designer unknown,
c . 1950s. İ zmir University of Economics, Faculty of Fine Arts and
Design, Tudita archive. 152
7.4 A group of women wearing identical dresses with Westernized
hairstyles and make- up. Photographer unknown, c . 1940s. Ç ağla
Ormanlar Ok collection. 153
8.1 Male and female business wear. Getty Images [Image reference
612387512] 170
8.2 Uniformity of business wear. Getty Images [Image reference
680449771] 173
9.1 Qantas cabin crew wearing Martin Grant uniform, 2016. Courtesy
of Qantas. 182
9.2 Qantas pilots wearing Martin Grant uniform, 2016. Courtesy
of Qantas. 194
10.1 Alexander Rodchenko in his p rozodezhda , 1922. Rodchenko
Family Archive. Courtesy of Alexander Lavrentiev. 205
10.2 Th ayaht in his tuta, 1920. Courtesy of Photographic Archive
of Prato Textile Museum [inv. n. 05.05.F06]. 214
11.1 Katharine Hamnett Spring/Summer 1997 collection.
Photograph by Niall McInerney, Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. 228
11.2 Jean Paul Gaultier, Spring/ Summer 1996 collection.
Photograph by Niall McInerney, Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. 231
12.1 Full- length image of British army soldier with gun by graffi ti
on wall. John Vlahidis/EyeEm. Copyright Getty Images
[Image ref: 898334748] 249
13.1 UDR soldiers on parade at Steeple Camp, Antrim,
Northern Ireland. Remembrance Sunday, 1970. Photograph
by Len Kinley. Wikimedia Commons: File [Soldiers_of_
UDR_on_parade_at_Steeple_Camp, Antrim.jpg] 258
Illustrations ix
13.2 A platoon of UDR soldiers march past Mahon Road Barracks,
Portadown, Co. Armagh, Northern Ireland, c. 1970s. Photograph by
Th underer. Wikimedia Commons: File [11_UDR_March_Past.jpg] 264
13.3 Ulster Defence Regiment Greenfi nch in semi- formal skirt wearing
old- style ‘fl ak jacket’ body armor, c. 1970s. Photograph by Ronnie
Gamble. Wikimedia Commons: File [UDR_Greenfi nch.jpg] 266