umi-umd-4533

296 Pages·2007·2.44 MB·English

ABSTRACT
TitleofDissertation: TheMazeofGaze:
TheColorofBeautyinTransnational Indonesia
LuhAyuS.Prasetyaningsih,Ph.D.,2007
Dissertation directedby: Dr.ClaireMoses
Dr.Seung-kyungKim
Department ofWomen’s Studies
What aretheeffects oftransnational circulations ofpeople,objects, and ideas on
ourunderstandingofskincolor,as it intersects withand complicates other categories of
identitysuchas race, gender,nationality, andsexuality,inatransnational context? This
dissertationaddresses this questionbyprovidingevidencefortheways in which
meanings ofskincolor,as it intersects withrace, gender,sexuality, andnationality,are
constructedtransnationallythroughpeople,objects,andideas that travel across national
boundaries from pre-topostcolonial Indonesia.
This dissertationuses “beauty”as anorganizingtropetolimit its analysis,
ensuringanalytical depthwithineachchapter. This analytical depthis furtherensuredby
choosingspecificsites of analysis tohighlight particularhistorical periods andcountries
from whichspecificpeople,objects,and ideas travel. Thesites IexamineincludeOld
Javaneseadaptations of Indianepics (tounderstandtheworkings of“color” in
precolonial times); beautyproduct advertisements that functionedas propagandafor
DutchandJapanese colonialism; skin-whiteningads publishedafter1998inthe
IndonesianeditionofAmericanwomen’s magazineCosmopolitan; andaninterpretive
readingofthe BuruTetralogynovels (Bumi Manusia,AnakSemuaBangsa, Jejak
Langkah,andRumahKaca)byIndonesia’s best knownauthor,Pramoedya AnantaToer.
Interviews with Indonesianwomenarealsointegratedinthis dissertation.
This dissertationaims tohelpus understandthesemiotics ofskincolor: 1)as a
transnational construction; 2)as asignifierforconstructingdistinctions andjustifying
genderdiscrimination; 3) as it is signifiedby(ratherthanasignifierfor)race, gender,
sexuality,andnation; 4) as asitewherewomen articulatetheirresistancetoorcomplicity
withdominant racial,color,and genderideology; and 5)as a “boundaryobject”that
perpetuates racial and genderhierarchyina global context.
THE MAZE OF GAZE:
THE COLOR OF BEAUTY IN TRANSNATIONAL INDONESIA
By
LuhAyuS.Prasetyaningsih
DissertationsubmittedtotheFacultyoftheGraduateSchool ofthe
UniversityofMaryland, CollegePark,inpartial fulfillment
oftherequirements forthedegreeof
DoctorofPhilosophy
2007
AdvisoryCommittee:
Dr.ClaireMoses,Co-Chair
Dr.Seung-kyungKim,Co-Chair
Dr.DeborahRosenfelt
Dr.ShawnParry-Giles
Dr.James Riker
©Copyright by
LuhAyuS.Prasetyaningsih
2007
This dissertationis dedicatedto:
mydaughter,whoteaches mehowtolove
mymother,whoteaches mehowtolet go andmoveon,and
mylate grandmother,whotaught mehowtolive andfight forwhat welove
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Acknowledgments
Adissertationis alabor oflove. And Iam blessedtohavesomanylovingsouls inmy
lifewhorelentlesslysend theirenergyinvarious forms as Ilovinglylabor onthis
dissertation.
Ihavelongwaitedforthis moment when IcanpubliclythankbothDr.Claire
Moses andDr.Seung-kyungKim fortheirmuch-appreciatedsupport,encouragement,
andguidancethroughout these years. Not onlyare theytwoofthemost eruditescholars I
know,but theyare alsocompassionate,kind-hearted,loving, generous,witty, anddown-
to-earthhumanbeings whom Iadmireandrespect tremendously.
Iam noCinderella. But Dr.Moses has beenmy“fairygodmother” (afeminist
andkind-heartedone,of course) whose“magicwand”has transformedme intoabetter
scholar,thinker,writer,teacher,andperson. Throughout these years,shehas done
wonders andperformed various “magical”tasks—morethananyone couldhaveasked
for,from constantlyintroducingmetonewbodyofworks andpeople, providingmewith
invaluablecomments,thoughtful advice,meticulous editing,endless encouragement,to
makingsurethat Ihaveeveryopportunitytobettermyacademicand social life. Her
inspiringmentorshipstyle,mentoringfrom aplaceofempathy,trust,encouragement,
persistence, andacceptance,allows metoaccept myownstrengths andweaknesses and
toriseaboveit all. It is heroffice,and at times evenherhome,that has become“my
homeawayfrom home.” It is thefirst place Iwent toseekfor,and always found,solace.
It is alsothefirst place Icametosharewhatever “good”news Ihaveinlife. Inmany
moments ofdistress,shehas compassionatelymendedmybrokenandtired wings. With
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hertremendous patience, wit,andstrength,shehas taught mehowtoflyandhas been
oneofthestrongest winds beneathmywings,for which Iam foreverand tremendously
grateful.
Dr.Kim has consistentlyprovidedmewithample spaces formyintellectual and
personal growth. Her genuinekindness,enduringempathy, andsincerehonestyallow for
aspace wherecriticisms canbe articulatedwithout injuringmysenseofworth; it is a
strategyIwishtoemulatewithmyownstudents. Shehas alsobeenoneof thefew
people,when mysurvival instinct oftenledmetochoosethe“flight”mode,who
persistentlyremindedme tochooseto“fight”instead. Herencouragingwords andher
believinginmemotivate metodomybest. Shehas mydeepest gratitude.
It has beensucha great pleasuretoworkfor and withDr.DebbyRosenfelt. She
has beenincrediblygenerous and willinginsharingherremarkable expertiseand
knowledgeinsideandoutsidetheclassroom. Her admirablecapacitytounderstand,
empathize,andgiveall thebest that shecan,has mademybeinganassistant directorfor
herCurriculum TransformationProject forseveral years anincrediblyrewarding
experience. Ithankher forhercontinuous guidanceandsincere encouragement.
If it weren’t forDr.ShawnParry-Giles’s awe-inspiringteachingstyleand
tremendous expertiseinvisual culture, Iprobablywouldnot haveincorporatedvisual
materials inthis dissertation. Iam grateful forthe amazingways inwhich shehas
instilledandnurturedmyloveforvisual culture. Ihavealsobenefitedtremendously
from herspecific,meticulous,andhelpful feedbackthroughout these years. Ithank her
sincerely.
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Ithank Dr.James Rikerforhis willingness tobeonboardandforbeingverykind
andsupportivethroughout this process. His manyimportant and critical questions during
theearlystageofmydissertationhelpedshapethe contours ofthis dissertation.
Particularlybecauseheis oneofthefewscholars intheUnitedStates whois workingon
Indonesiainatransnational context,it is sovaluabletohavehim onmycommittee.
Women’s studies professors at theUniversityof Marylandhaveall beenvery
supportive. I’dliketothankDr.Elsa BarkleyBrown,Dr.BonnieDill,Dr. Lynn Bolles,
Dr.RuthZambrana, and Dr.KatieKingwhohave sharedwithmetheirtimeand
expertise,andhave even madesurethat mygraduatestudent years aremanageable.
LauraNichols,AnnieCarter,and ClifforniaHowardhaveall beenincrediblyhelpful and
efficient intakingcareof all theadministrativework,forwhich Iam sincerelythankful.
Iam also grateful forthe financial support from theCollegeofArts and Humanities for
theMarySavageSnoufferDissertationfellowship that allowedmetofinallycomplete
this dissertation.
Ihavealsobenefited from stimulatingconversations withamazinglyastuteand
passionatescholars inthe greaterVancouver area. Ithank Dr.TinekeHellwig,Dr.
Michael Bodden,Dr. AbidinKusno,and Manneke Budiman,whoall have been generous
insharingtheir expertiseon Indonesiaand whose works continuetoinspire myown. I
thankAlmas Zakiuddinforbeingawonderful and inspiringfriend and introducingmeto
women’s studies scholars at theUniversityof BritishColumbia(UBC). Ialsothankthe
InstituteofAsianResearch/CentreforSoutheast AsianStudies and Centre forWomen’s
andGenderStudies at UBC forlettingmeparticipateinandbenefit from manyoftheir
conferences,workshops, andcolluquia.
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Iam grateful tohavebeensurroundedbymanyincrediblysmart and
com/passionatefriends whoall havesustainedmysanityinthemidst ofcraziness and
nourishedmyconfidence at times ofuncertainty. IthankRheinhardSirait forbeingan
enthusiasticandreliable comrade forthepast twelve years. I’vebenefitedtremendously
from his comments,encouragements,and willingness tointroducemetohis networkof
wonderful friends. His senseofhumor,intelligence,and eloquencemade every
conversationenjoyableandstimulating. I’dliketoalsothankJoySapinoso,Dr.Na
YoungLee,Dr.SarahTillery,RobynEpstein, and Yenni DJ formanyinvigorating
conversations and entertainingget-togethers that allowmetobalancemyacademic and
social life. IthankNikki Stewart whohas generouslysharedwithmevarious strategies
inmanagingthis dissertationwritingprocess. Shehas alsoremindedmethat oneneeds
todedicateasignificant chunkoftimetoproduce goodworks andtobelievethat “thereis
always room formorethanone.” Dr.GwynWeathers has beenaninspiringfriendwhose
meditativeadvicecontinues tocalm myemotional turbulenceand I’vehad many
wonderful intellectual exchanges withher. IthankA.Soemeri for givingmea“wake-
up”call,literallyandmetaphorically,without whom Iwouldhaveslept mywaydeeper
intodespair. Hehas helpedmefindmywayback tomylife’s purposes and pushedmeto
dowhat Ihavetodoinmakingmydreams come trueorto“dietrying.” Ialsoowe
many,manythanks toHeatherRellihanwhohas faithfullybeentherewithandforme
andmadethis journeytowards ourPh.D.s abearableone. When Ithought apersoncould
neverbe anykinder,morecompassionate, helpful,caring,and loving,sheprovedme
wrong. Shehas inspired metobeabetterperson, teacher,and scholar. As mymom once
toldher,sheis the“God-sent angel”without whom Iwouldhaveceasedto exist in
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(m)anymeaningful ways. Ivalueherfriendshipforit is oneoftheanchors that holds my
universeinits place.
Mydeepest gratitudealsogoes tomyfamily. Whilemypursuit forwomen’s
equalityis aimedtoward betteringall women’s lives,it is alsodrivenbymydesireto
carve aspacewheremymother,whohas given herheart andsoul forothers’well-being,
canbewell-respected andwell-appreciatednot onlyintheintimatespaceofherhomebut
alsointhelargerpublic arena. Ithankher forteachingmetotakelifebothseriouslyand
playfully,and forkeepingmeinherprayers. Myfatherhas helped mesecuresome
materials that aremuchneededforthis dissertation. Insomeuncannyways,hemademe
realizethat imperfection does not makemeless thanhuman; it makes mehuman. My
sisterhas always beenincrediblygenerous and supportive. Shehas kindlyand
generouslyaccommodatedmyneeds duringmyresearchstayin Indonesia andFrance. I
always cherishspendingtimenot onlywithherbut alsowithmybrother,bothofwhom
sharemypassionfor food,travel,and shopping. Iconsidermyselfluckyto havetraveled
this journeyoflifewithsuchwittysiblings. Indeed,it has beensuchablessingformeto
havesucha goodsupport system as thejourneyof lifeoftentakes us foran unexpected
ride. Ididnot expect,for example,that when Iwent totheUnitedStates in1999, Iwas
not goingtobeabletoseemybeloved grandmotheragain. At times, Istill feel thepang
ofguilt fornot havingbeenableto giveheranythinginreturn. Shehadstoodbyme,
defendedmeandmyfeminist perspectives,andtaught metostandmygroundandpersist
indefendingourrights andourlovedones. Ican onlythankherfrom this sideofthe
worldandhopethat she couldsomehowlistenandaccept myheartfelt thanks. Ihave
alsobenefitedtremendouslyfrom myuncle’s guidance, advice, and encouragement. He
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