The Way We Cook: Recipes from the New American Kitchen

401 Pages·2003·3.13 MB·English

by  Sheryl Julian

cook
the way we t
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Sheryl Julian Julie Riven
the way we
cook
Recipes from
the New American
Kitchen
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Photographs by Karen Wise
Houghton Mifflin Company
boston new york 2003
Copyright © 2003 by Sheryl Julian and Julie Riven
Photographs copyright © 2003 by Karen Wise
All rights reserved
For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,
write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Company, 215 Park Avenue South,
New York, New York 10003.
Visit our Web site: www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
ISBN 0-618-17149-5
These recipes appeared in slightly different form in theBoston Globe.
Book design by Anne Chalmers
Photographs by Karen Wise
Food styling by Julie Riven and Sheryl Julian
Prop styling by Heidi Fielwell
Accessories courtesy of La Cafetière, 160 9th Avenue, New York, New York
Printed in the United States of America
vb
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
For our mothers
Doris Guren Julian
and
Ghita Henderson Riven
Wise and generous women who taught us
all their golden rules for life,
which include:
F
Take a warm sweater.
Get a good night’s sleep.
Make sure there’s plenty to eat.
tacknowledgmentst
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We’ve been writing about food for so bias): Paul McGeary, Stephen Shepard,
long that you would think the path from and Mary Ellis among them.
columnists to book authors would be When things got tight with the
easy and maybe even a little graceful. book schedule, Alison and Amy Graves
But it was abrupt. We never thought took over as food editors.
about writing this book until Alison Julie Michaels gave remarkable,
Arnett, the Boston Globe’s restaurant animated advice, as usual; Gail Banks
critic, who made the template for the and Sandra Shapiro read and cheered
column twenty years ago when she was relentlessly; Corby Kummer, who sent
an editor, ordered us one day to set the us to Rux, offered wisdom and encour-
wheels in motion. With constant prod- agement in large doses; the talented
ding from Alison, we met Rux Martin of Judith Barrett offered the title.
Houghton Mifflin and Doe Coover of the We watched photographer Karen
Doe Coover Agency. We four became Wise balancing herself like a ballerina
laughing accomplices, shaping the ideas on the top of a stepladder in Julie’s
on these pages. We loved those “work” kitchen, breathing carefully so her cam-
sessions. Doe is instinctive and gener- era wouldn’t shake. We love her work.
ous about people; Rux is delightful, and Ingrid Lysgaard, in Sheryl’s kitchen,
when she massages a manuscript, it’s a cooked and baked and always laughed.
joy to follow her editing. Kim Abrams, who assists us in other
Michael Larkin was the Boston Globe cooking projects, rescued us at the com-
Magazineeditor when the column was puter and in the kitchen.
established, and many people shaped it The Eustises, Fairbanks, Kursons,
over the years, including Jan Freeman, and Solomons reminded us how much
the first copyeditor, Mimsi Beckwith, we enjoy a lively table of friends.
Fiona Luis, Bennie DiNardo, Louise Steve and Barry and our children,
Kennedy, Ann Cortissoz, and Barbara David, Tony, Peter, Asher, and Jennifer
Pattison. The witty David Cohen cares — marvelous eaters — could not have
deeply about getting it right. been more enthusiastic.
The tech team at the Boston Globe Thank you all for launching the
couldn’t have been more helpful (espe- “we’’ in The Way We Cook.
cially considering our computer pho-
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introduction
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Appetizers 1
Salads 40
When You’re in a Rush 66
Dishes We Make All the Time 98
New Classics 136
Good Enough for Company 164
Simmering Pots 206
Sides 244
Rise and Dine 286
If You Love to Bake 310
Simple Fruit Desserts 362
index
373