The Science of Good Cooking

1993 Pages·2012·18.06 MB·English

by  The Editors of America's Test Kitchen and Guy Crosby Ph.D

Copyright © 2012 by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever
without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical
articles or reviews.

America’s Test Kitchen
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

The science of good cooking : master 50 simple concepts to enjoy a lifetime of success in the kitchen/ the
editors at America’s Test Kitchen and Guy Crosby ; illustrations by Michael Newhouse and John Burgoyne.
p. cm.
Includes index.
Kindle ISBN: 978-1-936493-45-6
1. Cooking. 2. Food. I. Crosby, Guy. II. America’s Test Kitchen (Firm)
TX651.S375 2012
641.3--dc23
2012012807

Hardcover: $40 US

Manufactured in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Distributed by America’s Test Kitchen
17 Station Street, Brookline, MA 02445
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop
SCIENCE EDITOR: Guy Crosby, PhD
PROJECT EDITOR: Molly Birnbaum
TEST KITCHEN EXPERIMENT EDITOR: Dan Souza
DESIGN DIRECTOR: Amy Klee
ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS: Erica Lee, Matthew Warnick
DESIGNERS: Taylor Argenzio, Sarah Horwitch Dailey
COLOR ILLUSTRATIONS: Michael Newhouse
BLACK-AND-WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS: John Burgoyne
PHOTOGRAPHY: Daniel J. Van Ackere
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford
SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Quirk
SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER: Alice Carpenter
PROJECT MANAGER: Kate Hux
ASSET AND WORKFLOW MANAGER: Andrew Mannone
PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALIST: Lauren Pettapiece
COPY EDITOR: Cheryl Redmond
PROOFREADER: Barbara Wood
SCIENCE PROOFREADER: Joanne Curran-Celentano, PhD
INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson
CONTENTS
Preface By Christopher Kimball
Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen
Navigating This E-book
Introduction
The Science of Measuring
The Science of Time and Temperature
The Science of Heat and Cold
The Science of the Senses
The Science of Tools and Ingredients
Recipe Table of Contents
CONCEPT 1: Gentle Heat Prevents Overcooking
CONCEPT 2: High Heat Develops Flavor
CONCEPT 3: Resting Meat Maximizes Juiciness
CONCEPT 4: Hot Food Keeps Cooking
CONCEPT 5: Some Proteins Are Best Cooked Twice
CONCEPT 6: Slow Heating Makes Meat Tender
CONCEPT 7: Cook Tough Cuts Beyond Well-Done
CONCEPT 8: Tough Cuts Like a Covered Pot
CONCEPT 9: A Covered Pot Doesn’t Need Liquid
CONCEPT 10: Bones Add Flavor, Fat, and Juiciness
CONCEPT 11: Brining Maximizes Juiciness in Lean
Meats
CONCEPT 12: Salt Makes Meat Juicy and Skin Crisp
CONCEPT 13: Salty Marinades Work Best
CONCEPT 14: Grind Meat at Home for Tender
Burgers
CONCEPT 15: A Panade Keeps Ground Meat Tender
CONCEPT 16: Create Layers for a Breading That
Sticks
CONCEPT 17: Good Frying Is All About Oil
Temperature
CONCEPT 18: Fat Makes Eggs Tender
CONCEPT 19: Gentle Heat Guarantees Smooth
Custards
CONCEPT 20: Starch Keeps Eggs from Curdling
CONCEPT 21: Whipped Egg Whites Need Stabilizers
CONCEPT 22: Starch Helps Cheese Melt Nicely
CONCEPT 23: Salting Vegetables Removes Liquid
CONCEPT 24: Green Vegetables Like It Hot—Then
Cold
CONCEPT 25: All Potatoes Are Not Created Equal
CONCEPT 26: Potato Starches Can Be Controlled
CONCEPT 27: Precooking Makes Vegetables Firmer
CONCEPT 28: Don’t Soak Beans—Brine ’Em
CONCEPT 29: Baking Soda Makes Beans and Grains
Soft
CONCEPT 30: Rinsing (Not Soaking) Makes Rice
Fluffy
CONCEPT 31: Slicing Changes Garlic and Onion
Flavor
CONCEPT 32: Chile Heat Resides in Pith and Seeds
CONCEPT 33: Bloom Spices to Boost Their Flavor
CONCEPT 34: Not All Herbs Are for Cooking
CONCEPT 35: Glutamates, Nucleotides Add Meaty
Flavor
CONCEPT 36: Emulsifiers Make Smooth Sauces
CONCEPT 37: Speed Evaporation When Cooking
Wine
CONCEPT 38: More Water Makes Chewier Bread
CONCEPT 39: Rest Dough to Trim Kneading Time
CONCEPT 40: Time Builds Flavor in Bread
CONCEPT 41: Gentle Folding Stops Tough Quick
Breads
CONCEPT 42: Two Leaveners Are Often Better than
One
CONCEPT 43: Layers of Butter Make Flaky Pastry
CONCEPT 44: Vodka Makes Pie Dough Easy
CONCEPT 45: Less Protein Makes Tender Cakes,
Cookies
CONCEPT 46: Creaming Butter Helps Cakes Rise
CONCEPT 47: Reverse Cream for Delicate Cakes
CONCEPT 48: Sugar Changes Texture (and
Sweetness)
CONCEPT 49: Sugar and Time Make Fruit Juicier
CONCEPT 50: Cocoa Powder Delivers Big Flavor
Equipping Your Kitchen
Cookware Materials
What About Nonstick Pans?
Knife Basics
Emergency Ingredient Substitutions
Food Safety
Conversions and Equivalents
Further Reading
Index