The Oxford Handbook of Food History

642 Pages·2012·5.67 MB·English

by  Jeffrey M. Pilcher (ed.)

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Oxford Handbooks Online
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The Oxford Handbook of Food History
Edited by Jeffrey M. Pilcher
Print Publication Date: Oct Subject: History
2012
Online Publication Date: Nov
2012
(p. iv)
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
The Oxford handbook of food history / edited by Jeffrey M. Pilcher.
p. cm.—
(Oxford handbooks)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978–0–19–972993–7 (hardcover : alk. paper)
1. Food—History. 2. Food—Social aspects—History.
I. Pilcher, Jeffrey M.
TX353.O94 2012
641.309—dc23
2012011582
ISBN 978–0–19–972993–7
1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2
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Acknowledgments
Oxford Handbooks Online
Acknowledgments

The Oxford Handbook of Food History
Edited by Jeffrey M. Pilcher
Print Publication Date: Oct Subject: History
2012
Online Publication Date: Nov
2012
Acknowledgments
(p. v)
I thank Nancy Toff for suggesting the volume and for providing encouragement along the
way. Sonia Tycko stepped in at a critical moment with sound guidance that helped bring
the work to completion. Thanks also to my copy editor Suzanne Copenhagen and to the
production staff at OUP and Newgen for their diligent work. Of my contributors, I can
only say that they have been amazing, simply amazing. Their deep knowledge and
enthusiasm have made the project. I am especially grateful to a pair of former “hippies,”
Warren Belasco and Carole Counihan, whose wisdom, scholarship, warmth, and
generosity have left a lasting impression on the field. I dedicate this volume to Tim and
Liss. (p. vi)
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Contributors
Oxford Handbooks Online
Contributors

The Oxford Handbook of Food History
Edited by Jeffrey M. Pilcher
Print Publication Date: Oct Subject: History
2012
Online Publication Date: Nov
2012
Contributors
(p. xi)
Ken Albala is professor of history at the University of the Pacific in Stockton,
California. He is the author of many books on topics ranging from Renaissance
nutrition and fine dining to beans, as well as a cookbook. He has edited three food
series with twenty-nine volumes in print and is co-editor of the journal Food,
Culture and Society.
Rachel A. Ankeny is program coordinator for the new food studies graduate
program (and formerly was program manager for the graduate program in
gastronomy) and associate professor of history at the University of Adelaide,
Australia. Her research interests include food ethics, food habits of women and
children, and the relationship of science to cuisine. She also has expertise and
ongoing research on health and science policy, particularly regarding public
engagement and bioethics.
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Contributors
Warren Belasco teaches American studies at the University of Maryland,
Baltimore County, United States. He is the author of Americans on the Road
(1979), Appetite for Change: How the Counterculture Took on the Food Industry
(1990), Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food (2006), and Food: The Key
Concepts (2009). He edited Food, Culture and Society: An International Journal of
Multidisciplinary Research (2003–2009). He lives and gardens in Washington, D.C.
Charlotte Biltekoff is an assistant professor in American studies and food
science and technology at the University of California, Davis. Her research focuses
on the cultural politics of dietary health in the United States from the late
nineteenth century to the present. Her book, Eating Right in America: Food,
Health and Citizenship from Domestic Science to Obesity, is forthcoming from
Duke University Press.
Sierra Clark Burnett is a doctoral candidate in food studies and instructor at
New York University. Her research examines the politics of heritage and craft in
the modern food system through the study of American whiskey. She holds a B.A.
in International Relations from Brown University and a Grande Diplôme in
Culinary Arts from the French Culinary Institute.
Yong Chen is associate professor of history at the University of California, Irvine,
where he also served as associate dean of graduate studies. He is author of
Chinese San Francisco, 1850–1943 (2000), co-editor of New Perspectives on
American History (2010), and co-curator of “‘Have You Eaten Yet?’: The Chinese
Restaurant in America” (New York and Philadelphia). His research on diverse
topics such as Chinese American history, food, and higher education has been
published in (p. xii) various leading academic journals and has received extensive
media coverage in the United States and beyond.
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Contributors
Carole Counihan is emerita professor of anthropology at Millersville University
in Pennsylvania. For thirty years she has been studying ethnographically food,
culture, gender, and identity in Italy and the United States. She is the author of
The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning and Power (1999), Around
the Tuscan Table: Food, Family and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence
(2004), and A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of
Colorado (2009). She is co-editor with Penny Van Esterik of Food and Culture: A
Reader (1997, 2008) and is editor-in-chief of the scholarly journal Food and
Foodways.
Jonathan Deutsch is a classically trained chef and associate professor of culinary
arts at Kingsborough Community College, City University of New York and public
health at the CUNY Graduate Center. He is the author or editor of six books
including (with Annie Hauck-Lawson) Gastropolis: Food and New York City, and
(with Jeff Miller) Food Studies. When not in the kitchen he can be found playing
tuba in community bands around New York City.
Tracey Deutsch is associate professor of history at the University of Minnesota.
She is the author of Building a Housewife’s Paradise: Gender, Government and
American Grocery Stores in the Twentieth Century (2010) and teaches,
researches, and writes on food politics, gender systems, and capitalism.
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Contributors
Rebecca Earle is professor of history at the University of Warwick. Her research
concerns the cultural and intellectual history of colonial and independent Spanish
America. Her most recent book, The Body of the Conquistador: Food, Race and the
Colonial Experience (2012), investigates the centrality of food to the construction
of the colonial body in the early modern Hispanic world. Previous work examined
nineteenth-century elite nationalism’s engagement with the preconquest past (The
Return of the Native: Indians and Mythmaking in Spanish America, 1810–1930,
2008) and the Spanish American wars of independence (Spain and the
Independence of Colombia, 1810–1825, 2000).
Sterling Evans holds the Louise Welsh Chair in Borderlands History at the
University of Oklahoma. Previously he taught at Brandon University (Manitoba),
Humboldt State University (California), and the University of Alberta after having
completed graduate school at the University of Kansas. His research and teaching
interests include environmental, agricultural, and transnational history.
Paul Freedman is a professor in the history department at Yale University. A
medieval historian, he has specialized in the history of the Catalan peasants,
church, and nobility in the period 1000 to 1500. His work on food history has been
developed over the last ten years. He is the author of Out of the East: Spices and
the Medieval Imagination (2008) and editor of Food: The History of Taste (2007),
which was translated into ten languages. He is working on dining in the United
States in the nineteenth century. (p. xiii)
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Contributors
Donna R. Gabaccia is the Rudolph J. Vecoli Professor of History and director of
the Immigration History Research Center at the University of Minnesota. She is
the author of many books and articles on international migration, immigrant life in
the United States, and Italian life around the world. Among her books are We Are
What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (1998), Italy’s Many
Diasporas (2000), and Foreign Relations: Global Perspectives on American
Immigration (2012).
Rayna Green has served as curator at the Smithsonian Institution’s National
Museum of American History since 1984, following fifteen years in university as a
professor of Native studies and American studies. She is known for her
exhibitions, monographs, essays, and documentary productions on American
Indian representations, performance, and American identity. To her customary
repertoire, she has added exhibitions (e.g., “Bon Appétit: Julia Child’s Kitchen at
the Smithsonian”), films (e.g., Corn Is Who We Are: The Story of Pueblo Indian
Food), and writings (e.g., “Mother Corn Meets the Dixie Pig: Native Food in the
Native South”) on American and American Indian food and foodways.
Lucy M. Long (Ph.D., Folklore, University of Pennsylvania) runs a nonprofit
Center for Food and Culture and teaches food studies at Bowling Green State
University in the tourism and American culture studies programs. She is the
author of Culinary Tourism: Eating and Otherness (2003) and Regional American
Food Culture (2009) and has published on a wide range of topics connected to
food, ranging from Appalachian food and music to Irish soda bread to Korean
restaurants.
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Contributors
André Magnan is assistant professor of sociology and social studies at the
University of Regina, Canada. His principle research interest is the historical
political economy of local and global food systems, especially as it applies to the
Canadian prairies. He has published research on political conflicts over genetically
modified crops, the politics of collective grain marketing, and the historical
evolution of the Canada-U.K. commodity chain for wheat.
Elias Mandala received his B.A. and M.A. from the University of Malawi and
Ph.D. from the University of Minnesota, and now is professor of African history at
the University of Rochester. He is a student of African peasants, with particular
interest in agriculture, food systems, gender, intergenerational conflict, and rural
differentiation. His major publications include Work and Control in a Peasant
Economy: A History of the Lower Tchiri Valley in Malawi, 1859–1960 and The End
of Chidyerano: A History of Food and Everyday Life in Malawi, 1860–2004.
Bertie Mandelblatt is a historical geographer, teaching in the departments of
historical studies and geography at the University of Toronto (Mississauga). Her
research concerns commodity exchanges in the French Atlantic, focusing on the
production, provision, and consumption of food and drink in the French Antilles in
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, with particular emphasis on the
economic effects of slave consumption in the Caribbean and the wider Atlantic
world. (p. xiv)
Jeffrey Miller is an associate professor and acts as program coordinator for the
Hospitality Management program at Colorado State University. In addition to
teaching various hospitality courses, including culinary arts, he teaches the Food
and Society class at CSU. Prior to becoming a teacher, he was a chef in various
white tablecloth hospitality operations for twenty years.
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Contributors
Corrie E. Norman holds the Doctor of Theology degree from Harvard University.
She has authored several articles on food and religion, along with books and
articles on religion and culture in the United States and Italy. She is at work on a
book on spirituality and food in contemporary America.
Enrique C. Ochoa is professor of Latin American studies and history at California
State University, Los Angeles. His publications include Feeding Mexico: The
Political Uses of Food Since 1910 (2000) and Latina/o Los Angeles: Migrations,
Communities, and Political Activism (co-editor, 2005). His current book project is
entitled “Sin Maíz, No Hay País: Mexico’s Struggle for Food Sovereignty.”
Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney, William F. Vilas Research Professor at the University of
Wisconsin, is a native of Japan. Her research foci have been on various symbols of
identities of the Japanese, such as rice, the monkey, and cherry blossoms, in socio-
political contexts and in historical perspective. She penned fourteen single-
authored books in English and five in Japanese. She was the Distinguished Chair
for Modern Culture at the Library of Congress in 2009.
Steve Penfold is an associate professor in the department of history at the
University of Toronto. His research focuses on the political, social, and cultural
history of North American capitalism, especially mass consumption in Canada. His
last book was The Donut: A Canadian History (2008).
Gabriella M. Petrick is an associate professor in the department of nutrition and
food studies and the department of history and art history at George Mason
University. Her research focuses on the development of industrial foods and
dietary change in twentieth-century America. In addition to her work on food
science and technology, she is currently writing a sensory history of taste.
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