The Little Moroccan Cookbook

291 Pages·2013·19.67 MB·English

by  Tess Mallos

C
ONTENTS
C
OVER
T
ITLE
I
NTRODUCTION
S F
TREET OOD
FOOD JOURNEY: SOUKS
H C
OME OOKING
FOOD JOURNEY: SPICE
F F
ESTIVE OOD
FOOD JOURNEY: TAGINES
T C
HE OAST
SWEET DELIGHTS
F J T C
OOD OURNEY: EA EREMONY
B
ASICS
G
LOSSARY
I
NDEX
C
OPYRIGHT

M F P I E A U W
OROCCO’S OOD EDIGREE S NVIABLE ND NIQUE, ITH
A P A A I A W A T
RABIC, ERSIAN ND NDALUSIAN NFLUENCES, S ELL S HE
C O T B
OOKING F HE ERBERS.
Phoenicians and Carthaginians, Romans and Byzantines all had their
time in what is now Morocco. The former traded along its
Mediterranean shores in ancient times, planting olive trees and vines,
while the empires of Rome and Byzantium included Mauretania, as it
was then known, along with the remainder of North Africa. However,
it was the forces of Islam erupting from Arabia in the late seventh
century that had the most enduring influence on its culture, including its
cuisine. To the Arabs, the area, from present-day Tunisia to Morocco,
was known as the Maghreb (furthest west), a term still in use.
W
hile Morocco’s population is 80 per cent Berber, the people are regarded as
Arab-Berber. There is also a significant population of Africans from Senegal,
Mauritania and Mali. There are two official languages – Arabic and French, the
latter from the French presence of 1912 to 1962. The French improved
infrastructure and agriculture, planted vineyards and introduced viticulture. Their
food legacy is baguettes, croissants, wine, coffee and some patisserie items.
The Berbers are believed to have originated in present-day Libya. Many of their
customs continue today, such as their festivals and pilgrimages which last for
several days. While the Berbers have their own language (with regional
variations), it is not a written language. The culture of the Berbers today is
strongly intertwined with Islam.
In 683, Arab soldiers reached Mauretania in their conquest to spread the message
of the prophet, Mohammed, across North Africa. In 711, the Arabs, together with
recruited Berbers, invaded the Iberian Peninsula (today’s Spain and Portugal),
dominating the region for the next seven centuries. As the Berbers were then
known as Mauris, the invading forces became known as the Moors.
The Arabs named the peninsula Al Andaluz and introduced the cultivation of the
saffron crocus, various citrus fruits, figs, pomegranates, spinach, eggplants,
almonds, rice and sugar cane, and these subsequently filtered down to Morocco.
The full extent of Arabic culture, learning, medicine, cookery, architecture and
agriculture took flower in Al Andaluz, especially from the tenth century.
From the eleventh century to the thirteenth century, the Berber dynasties of the
Almoravides and the Almohades ruled in Al Andaluz and Morocco. The lavish
court kitchens of Fes, Rabat, Meknes and Marrakesh were the conduit by which
new foods were introduced and recipes refined, a process that continued with
later Berber dynasties. The cuisine that evolved makes the most of the ingredients
Morocco produces in abundance, with flavours enhanced by new spices
introduced by the Arabs. This is evident in dishes that use fruit for the sweet–
sour flavours they impart, evolving into dishes that can only be Moroccan.

Traces of Ottoman cooking filtered into Morocco’s north-east from Algeria,
reached in the western expansion of the Ottomans. Stuffed vegetables can be
attributed to this influence, as can the kebabs that are found all over Morocco. In
some cafés, Turkish coffee is available, although it is usually French in style.
Mint tea is the universal beverage.
The reconquest of Spain came to an end in Granada in 1492 with the expulsion of
the Moors and Jews who would not convert to Catholicism. Many Jews settled in
Morocco, with their recipes enriching the tapestry of Moroccan food.
With the discovery of the New World, tomatoes, potatoes, squash and sweet and
hot capsicums (peppers) were adopted and added new dimensions to Moroccan
cuisine. Dried hot, mild and sweet chillies and capsicums also gave them
additional spices – chilli, cayenne pepper and paprika.
FROM THE PALACES
It was in the palaces of the ruling Berber dynasties of the fourteenth century that
Moroccan cooking began to take shape. The lavish court kitchens were the
conduit by which new foods and recipes were eventually introduced to household
kitchens. The famed bestilla, a pie of pigeons redolent with herbs and spices,
lemony eggs and sweetened almonds, enclosed in tissue-thin warkha pastry,
eventually emerged – a marriage of Berber cooking and Arab influences drawn
from its Persian heritage. Via the Silk Road, the Persians had learned the art of
making thin pastry from the Chinese.
THE NORTH
Tetuan, Tangier and environs reflect Andalusian influences, making great use of
olive oil, capsicums, tomatoes, saffron and wild artichokes, and include tortilla-
like omelettes and rice dishes. There are even tapas bars in these cities –
vestiges of Spanish Morocco (1912 to 1956). Tetuan is also famous for its nouga
(nougat) – another Spanish influence. In Tangier, fish is plentiful, with
Mediterranean and Atlantic fish caught in its waters. In the north-west of this
region, the blossoms of the bigarade (Seville) oranges are distilled commercially
to make zhaar (orange flower water).
In the Rif Mountains, the Berbers are fond of breks, a Tunisian favourite that has
been adopted by Moroccans, and make couscous with sorghum, a grain with a
buckwheat-like flavour. Azenbu is another popular couscous, made from green