The Jacquard machine analyzed and explained

162 Pages·2010·7.65 MB·English

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THE JACQUARD MACHINE
Analyzed and Explained
WITH AN APPENDIX
ON THE
PREPARATION OF JACQUARD CARDS,
AND
PRACTICAL HINTS TO LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING.
POSSELT,
K. A.
HeadMaster, Textile Department, Pennsylvania Museum andSchoolofIndustrialArt,
No. 1336 Spring Garden Street.
With 230 Illustrations.
Copyrighted, iSS7,
BV
POSSELT.
E. A.
?\
H
Photo-Engravingsby
Pressof Thele\ttypecompany.
DandoPrinting and publishingCo.,
Philadelphia.
34S ThirdSt..Philadelphia.
TABLE OK CONTENTS.
PAGE.
History of the Jacquard Machine, ....
— 7
The Jacquard Machine General Arrangement and Application,
9
—
Illustration of the different parts of the Jacquard Machine Method of Operation, etc., n
—
The Jacquard Harness The Comber-boards 20
...........
Tying-up of Jacquard Harness, 2,
—
I. Straight-through Tie-up, 23
—
II.—Straight-through T.ie-up.for R.epea.ted E.ffects., in .one R.epeat.of t.he De.sign,.... 29
III.—Straight-through Tie-up of Jacquard Loom, having.Fron.t Har.ness.atta.ched,.... 31
IV. Centre Tie-up,
33
— ........
V. Straight-through and Point Tie-ups Combined, 3c
—
VI. Straight-through Tie-up in Two Sections, 48
— ........
VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness forFiguring Part of the Design with an ExtraWarp, 51
— ...........
VIII. Straight-through Tie-up in Three Sections, 53
— ........
IX. Point Tie-up in Three Sections, re
— .......
X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections, 56
—
XI. Straight-through Tie-up in Four Sections, .... sy
— .......
XII. Tying-up ofJacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached, 58
—
XIII. Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics, 64
.......
Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine 67
—
I. Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine, 67
— .........
II. Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine 69
—
III. Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks, 71
Tying-up ofJacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet, 72
........
General Description of the Constructio.n of.the F.abric., .. .. .. .. .... 72
Straight-through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpet, 74
Point Tie-up for Ingrain Carpet, 78
APPENDIX.
......
Preparing and Stamping ofJacquard Cards ... 85
......
Dobby Card Punching Machines, 86
.86
Piano Card Stamping Machines,
Stamping of Cards,
gT
Repeating Jacquard Cards by the Positive Action Repeater, 92
..........
Lacing of Jacquard Cards,
97
Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Hand,
97
Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine, 98
TABLE OF CONTENTS.—Continued.
PRACTICAL HINTS TO LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING.
............. I \r.l.
Squared Designing Paper for the different Textile Fabrics executed on the Jacquard
Machine, 103
Practical Use of the Heavy Square in Designing Paper, 105
........
Selection of Designing Paper for Single Cloth, 105
Selection of Designing Paper for Double Cloth, 106
Selection of Designing Paper for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet, 106
..........
Selection ofthe Proper Brush for the different n Designing Papers 107
..........
Colors used for Painting Textile Designs, 107
Preservation of Textile Designs, 107
..........
Sketching of Designs for Textile Fabrics to be executed on the Jacquard Machine, 108
............
Methods of Setting the Figures, 108
Size of Sketch Required, 109
Enlarging and Reducing Figures for Sketches no
............
Transferring of the Sketch to the Squared Designing Paper, 112
Outlining in Squares, 113
Rules for Outlining in Squares Inside or Outside the Drawing Outline 114
— — —
Illustration of a Sketch Outlining on Paper Finished Design Fabric Sample (Sin-
gle Cloth), 115
.............
Designs for Damask Fabrics to be executed on a Jacquard Loom, with Compound Har-
ness attached, 116
Designs for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet, 116
.117
Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp, . . . . . .
.118
Designs for Figured Pile Fabrics, . . . . . . . . .
The Shading of Textile Fabrics by the Weave, 118
Glossary, 121
.