the influence of st. louis 1904 world's fair on japonisme that appeared in periodicals

112 Pages·2012·2.45 MB·English

THE INFLUENCE OF ST. LOUIS 1904 WORLD’S FAIR ON JAPONISME THAT
APPEARED IN PERIODICALS
_______________________________________
A Thesis
presented to
the Faculty of the Graduate School
at the University of Missouri-Columbia
_______________________________________________________
In Partial Fulfillment
of the Requirements for the Degree
Master of Science
_____________________________________________________
by
LAURA KIM
Dr. LAUREL E. WILSON, Thesis Supervisor
MAY 2012
© Copyright by Laura Kim 2012
All Rights Reserved
The undersigned, appointed by the dean of the Graduate School, have examined the
thesis entitled
THE INFLUENCE OF ST. LOUIS 1904 WORLD’S FAIR ON JAPONISME THAT
APPEARED IN PERIODICALS
presented by Laura Kim,
a candidate for the degree of master of science,
and hereby certify that, in their opinion, it is worthy of acceptance.
Professor Laurel E. Wilson
Professor Jean L. Parsons
Professor Kristin A. Schwain
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Firstly, I would like to thank Professor Laurel Wilson, who has been a supportive
advisor to me. Her intellectual curiosity and broad knowledge of World’s costume has
allowed me to complete my research on Japonisme. Her careful guidance on research
direction and method was has taught me how to be a good scholar. In addition to her
academic advice, I am grateful for her offer of an assistantship to work in the Missouri
Historic Costume and Textile Collection, where I was able to find garments related to my
thesis.
Secondly, I would like to express my gratitude to my thesis committee members:
Dr. Parsons from the Dept. of Textile and apparel Management and Dr. Schwain from the
Dept. of Art History and Archeology. It was a wonderful opportunity to meet them and
discuss my thesis.
Thirdly, I would like to acknowledge the State Historical Society of Missouri for
kindly allowing me open access to their extensive resources. I was fortunate enough to be
able to research St. Louis Post-Dispatch microfilms. If I could not access the microfilms
for free, this thesis could not have been accomplished.
Lastly, I would like to thank Jill from the 8900 writing class, and Jim from the
Asian Affairs Center, for helping me to improve my English writing for my thesis.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ............................................................................................ ii
LIST OF GRAPHS AND IMAGES ................................................................................. v
ABSTRACT ..................................................................................................................viii
Chapter
1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................ 1
2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE ................................................................................ 5
Japanese Art and Dress
World’s Fair in the mid 19th century to the early 20th century
How Japan dealt with the era of World’s Fair
How Japan’s tactic could be successful in World’s Fair
Japan at St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904
3. RESEARCH METHODS .................................................................................... 21
4. FINDINGS .......................................................................................................... 27
Japonisme in Fashion Trends
National trends that appeared
Harper’s Bazaar
The New York Times
Discussion of National Trend
St. Louis Local Trends that appeared
St. Louis Post-Dispatch
Discussion on St. Louis Post-Dispatch
5. DISCUSSION ..................................................................................................... 81
6. LIMITATIONS AND FUTURE DIRECTION .................................................... 87
iii
APPENDIX
1. TABLES OF HARPER’S BAZAAR 1903 .......................................................... 89
2. TABLES OF HARPER’S BAZAAR 1904 .......................................................... 90
3. TABLES OF HARPER’S BAZAAR 1905 .......................................................... 91
4. TABLES OF NEW YORK TIMES 1903 ............................................................ 92
5. TABLES OF NEW YORK TIMES 1904 ............................................................ 93
6. TABLES OF NEW YORK TIMES 1905 ............................................................ 94
7. TABLES OF NEW YORK TIMES OTHER ....................................................... 95
8. TABLES OF ST.LOUIS POST-DISPATCH 1903 .............................................. 96
9. TABLES OF ST.LOUIS POST-DISPATCH 1904 .............................................. 97
10. TABLES OF ST.LOUIS POST-DISPATCH 1905 .............................................. 98
BIBLIOGRAPHY ......................................................................................................... 99

iv
LIST OF GRAPHS AND IMAGES
Graphs Page
1. Harper’s Bazaar: Japan/Japanese/Kimono in general ............................................ 29
2. Harper’s Bazaar: Kimono in Authentic form ........................................................ 30
3. Harper’s Bazaar: Kimono/Kimona........................................................................ 33
4. The New York Times: Kimono in general ............................................................ 38
5. The New York Times: Kimono in Authentic form ................................................ 40
6. The New York Times: Kimono/ Kimona .............................................................. 44
7. The New York Times: Kimono Sacque/Wrapper & Kimono Robe/Gown ............. 48
8. The New York Times: Kimono Sleeve ................................................................. 50
9. The New York Times: Fabric for Kimono ............................................................ 51
10. The New York Times: Japanese Silks and Japanese Silk Waists ........................... 52
11. The New York Times: News about World’s Fair & Russo-Japanese War ............. 53
12. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Local Trend related to Japan/Japanese ........................... 55
13. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Japonisme Trend ............................................................ 59
14. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Kimono in general ......................................................... 60
15. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Kimono in Authentic form ............................................. 61
16. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Kimono/Kimona ............................................................ 66
17. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Kimono Sacque/Robes ................................................... 68
18. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Fabric for Kimono ......................................................... 70
19. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Textiles .......................................................................... 71
v
20. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Japanese Silk Waists ...................................................... 74
21. St. Louis Post-Dispatch: Accessories .................................................................... 77

Images Page
1. “The Best Amusement on the Pike,” Advertisement, May 29, 1904, Part 3, pg.7b,
St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper
Collection) ....................................................................................................... 17
2. “Two Big Plays Open in the Downtown Theater Tonight,” Photo, July 31, 1904,
Part 3, pg.5, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri
Newspaper Collection)..................................................................................... 57
3. “Broaden Your Mind to Appreciate and You Will Find All Men Closely Akin,”
June 5, 1904, Part 3, pg.1, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society
of Missouri Newspaper Collection) .................................................................. 62
4. “The Pathetic Love Story of Aiku Kitamura,” June 19, 1904, pg.1, St. Louis Post-
Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper Collection) ..... 63
5. “St. Louis Costumes for an Approaching Japanese Tea,” March 29, 1903, magazine
pg.5, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri
Newspaper Collection)..................................................................................... 63
6. “The Buddhist Bride and New York's 400,” March 6, 1904, magazine pg.7, St.
Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper
Collection) ..................................................................................................... 64
7. “Oriental Wares,” Japan Art Co., Advertisement, December 17, 1905 Part 3, pg.6,
St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper
Collection) ....................................................................................................... 65
8. “Oriental Christmas Presents For Everybody,” Japan Auction, Advertisement,
December 17, 1905, Part 3, pg.10, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical
Society of Missouri Newspaper Collection) ..................................................... 65
9. “A Sale of Beautiful Kimonos,” The May Co., ad, June 11, 1905, Part 2, pg.4b, St.
Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper
Collection) ....................................................................................................... 67
vi
10. “Women’s Dressing Sacques,” Famous, Advertisement, April 23, 1905, Part 2,
pg.12b, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical Society of Missouri
Newspaper Collection)..................................................................................... 69
11. “The Newlyweds- A 2 A.M. Call at Their Telephone,” Cartoon by GEO.
McManus., October 22, 1905, funnyside pg.1, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The
State Historical Society of Missouri Newspaper Collection) ............................ 69
12. “$4.50 Jap Silk Waists, $2.75,” Grand Leader Stix, Baer, Fuller, Advertisement,
May 14, 1905, Part 2, pg.5b, St. Louis Post-Dispatch (The State Historical
Society of Missouri Newspaper Collection) ..................................................... 75

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THE INFLUENCE OF ST. LOUIS 1904 WORLD’S FAIR ON JAPONISME THAT
APPEARED IN PERIODICALS

Laura Kim

Dr. Laurel E. Wilson, Thesis Supervisor

ABSTRACT

This study is about Japonisme that appeared in newspaper and magazine advertisements
and articles from 1903 to 1905. The Japanese promoted their culture by showing its traditional
arts and crafts in World’s fairs from the mid 19th century to the early 20th century. In addition,
victories in the Sino-Japanese war and the Russo-Japanese war increased the Japanese position in
Asia. As Japan was becoming politically more influential in the world, the biggest Japanese
pavilion in the U.S. World’s Fairs took place in the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. Because of the
Fair, St. Louis residents were exposed to Japanese arts and cultural objects including Kimono
and textiles.
To understand the possible impact of Japan’s participation in the St. Louis 1904 World’s
fair, national and regional data from Harper’s Bazaar, The New York Times, and St. Louis Post-
Dispatch were collected from 1903 to 1905. Advertisements and articles were researched to see
the incidence Japonisme that appeared in print. The data suggest that there was some influence
on the incidence of Japonisme in St. Louis because of the World’s Fair.