Table Of ContentThe 
H  S
appy tripper
The
H  S
appy tripper
Pleasures and Politics 
of the New Burlesque
Jacki Willson
Published in 2008 by I.B.Tauris & Co Ltd
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distributed by Palgrave Macmillan, a division of St. Martin’s Press 
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Copyright © Jacki Willson, 2008
The right of Jacki Willson to be identified as the author of this work has 
been asserted by the author in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and 
Patents Act 1988.
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ISBN:  978 1 84511 318 6
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Acknowledgements 
I thank my editor Susan Lawson for her enthusiasm, rigour and in-
sights, as well as Dr Marsha Meskimmon for her advice, suggestions 
and wholehearted encouragement. 
I need also to express my warm thanks to the contemporary ar-
tistes and artists – Ursula Martinez, Jenny Saville and Immodesty 
Blaize and her efficient assistant Minnie – who kindly allowed me to 
include the striking and appropriate images in this book. Thanks also 
to the Arts and Humanities Research Council for their support. 
Most of all I must lovingly thank George and Mathilde for their 
support and patience throughout this project.
Contents
List of Illustrations   viii
Introduction: Show Off   1        
Empowering, Disempowering, Overpowering   1
Feminism and Post(-)Feminism   8
1. Burlesque   17
What is Burlesque?   17
Crossing into the mainstream   17
Democratic excesses   25
‘Stars’ and ‘Queens’   33
The unruly woman   33
Menacing vamp   40
2. Body as Spectacle   49
The Nude   49
Pornography and erotica   49
Histories of female performance   56
The Female Body in Performance   63
Carolee Schneemann   63
Hannah Wilke   70
Contents
3. The ‘Leg Business’   79
Money   79
The man’s world of business   79
Ruthless tycoons   87
Sex   95
The unholy trinity (strippers, hookers and porn stars)   95
The courtesan   101
4. Powers of Seduction   111
Painted Ladies   111
Artifice   111
Glamour   119
Veiling and Nakedness   126
Democracy   126
Freedom   133
5. Guerrilla Theatre   143
The Freak   143
Subversive submission   143
The freak show   150
Knowingness   157
Gossip   157
Networking   165
Conclusion: Showdown   173
Feminist Fluidity   173
Virus   180
Notes   189
Bibliography   211
Index   224
vii
Illustrations
Lydia Thompson as the ‘Girl of the Period’ (J. Gurney Studios, 
c.1868). Courtesy of Billy Rose Theatre Collection, The New 
York Library for the Performing Arts, Astor Lenox, and Tilden 
Foundations. 16
Plan, 1993, by Jenny Saville. Oil on canvas. 108 × 84 in. 
Courtesy of the artist and Gagosian Gallery. 48
Gypsy Rose Lee. Courtesy of Culver Pictures.  78
West End bill poster advertising Immodesty Blaize and Walter’s 
Burlesque, 2005. Courtesy of Immodesty Blaize, © Immodesty 
Blaize. 110
Ursula  Martinez  in  Show  Off,  2001.  Courtesy  of  Ursula 
Martinez. 142
Introduction:
Show Off
Empowering, Disempowering,  
Overpowering
I  n 2001 I went to see a performance artist called Ursula  
  Martinez. The performance – Show Off – began with Ur- 
sula, clothed sexily in a black dress and stilettos, seductively 
stripping to music. For three long minutes I sat in a mixed audience 
and watched, feeling a mixture of pleasure, anger and embarrassment. 
Winking and smiling, she took off every scrap of clothing and then dis-
appeared behind the curtain. She then reappeared to tell us that that 
was it, the show was over, and we were now going to have a question-
and-answer session. I left the theatre with many, many questions. 
That experience was the catalyst for this book.
After the performance the striptease continued to bother me. Why 
did it bother me? This woman was comfortable with her body, and 
sexy in her confidence and charisma. Funny. Gutsy. Intelligent. Con-
trolled. Why, therefore, did it continue to bother me? For a start I had 
voluntarily paid to enter the theatre, so with that payment came an 
element of trust. I assumed that what I would be seeing would be art. 
That same exchange of money created a very different situation when 
I was confronted with striptease, however. I was then thrust into
The Happy Stripper
another relationship: that of a voyeur, a sex show client – that of ille-
gitimacy, of side streets, stale smoke, exploitation and cheap thrills. 
How did stripping differ in my perceptions when it was advertised 
as art and housed within an art establishment, rather than a sleazy 
joint where I imagined men in shifty raincoats filling the room with 
unrequited lust, dirty secrets and shame? My pleasure and anger 
came from suddenly feeling immersed in this tense, intense inter-
play between legitimacy and illegitimacy, danger and safety, pleasure 
and anger, liberation and vulnerability. I felt exposed and trapped, 
resentful of being lured there yet completely relishing the experience 
– shrinking into my seat yet urging Martinez on. 
Did she also feel these polarized emotions? As a feminist, were 
you meant to be feeling offended and uncomfortable with this ac-
tion? Or were you meant to be cheering her on in affectionate post-
feminist support and camaraderie? Was the fact of her being a les-
bian (a fact I discovered after the strip) supposed to alter any sense 
of uneasiness on my part – was it fine to strip as long as you were gay 
and doing it with a sense of irony? 
Post-feminists and antifeminists seem to be saying that it’s fine 
to strip nowadays; we can do what we want, when we want. Where 
does that leave strippers as artistes? Have we got to the point in 
feminist progression where these women should now be viewed 
as empowered workers rather than disempowered, exploited and 
somehow damaged victims? Should we differentiate at all between a 
fully sentient performance by an artist like Martinez and a seeming-
ly politically naive performance by an artiste such as, for instance, 
Dita Von Teese? Taking that further, what about that bad egg the 
prostitute – is she now our contemporary ‘all-woman’ heroine?
Does any of this matter anymore? Some young women now feel 
that these issues are old hat, tired, wearing thin and long overdue for 
retirement. Does this undermine my own feminist ideals and 1980s 
‘Alexis Carrington’ teenage years? For those not of my generation, 
Dynasty’s acerbic but sexy Alexis Carrington, played by the indomi-
table Joan Collins, was iconic for her sex appeal, power-dressing,  
2
Description:If the burlesque stripper, with her bawdy spirit and unruly insubordination, has emerged for many as a new 'empowering' model for the sexually aware woman, then she also strikes horror in the heard of second wave feminism. Embodied by high profile artists such as Dita von Teese and Catherine d'Lish,