The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory A Guide to Fabrics' Properties, Characteristics, and Garment-Design Potential

323 Pages·2011·168.18 MB·English

by  Gail Baugh

B
A
U
Gail Baugh teaches textiles and merchandising This is the fabric and textile directory that dressmakers G THE FASHION DESIGNER’S THE FASHION DESIGNER’S
at both San Francisco State University and the and fashion designers have been waiting for. It’s like H TEXTILE DIRECTORY
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.
She has extensive fashion industry experience, having your own personal textiles expert on hand to TEXTILE DIRECTORY
particularly in global product development and recommend fabrics that match the effects you want to
sourcing for large retail chains. achieve. You’ll discover how different fabrics perform, Designers are trained to develop a vision
and you’ll learn the many ways to use them. in terms of surface, silhouette, and “good”
design; they are not trained to translate that
A guide to fabrics’ properties, characteristics,
vision into understandable terms for the
The directory is organized by function. Do you want
and garment-design potential textile industry. This book is designed
a fabric for its structure, fl uidity, added volume, to transcend this gap in communication.
TT
defi nition, or decoration? Do you want a garment
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
H
that clings to the fi gure, or one that allows you to E
guides you through fi ve fabric categories,
construct a whole new silhouette? What is the overall XE color-coded for easy navigation:
•
effect you are aiming to achieve—pretty, or lustrous F Structure
•
T
and magnifi cent? A Fluidity
•
Ornamentation
IS •
L Expansion
Each fabric described in the directory comes with color H •
Compression
E
photos of samples that illustrate its properties, helping I
O
Illustrated and explained throughout with
you understand how a particular fabric’s qualities make
D
photographs of fabric samples, garments, and
N
it suitable for specifi c items of apparel. GAIL BAUGH
diagrams. Each fabric entry included in the
I
directory has all the information you will need
R
D
At the back of the book you will fi nd essential guides to to make the right decision about the fabric for
fi ber properties, weaves, knits, weights, characteristics, EE your design. Graphic icons representing fabric
CS structure, weight, and any special fi nishes
and care advice.
I provide a wealth of information without the
G
T need for lots of reading, and facts and fi gures
N are summarized in bulleted lists.
O
E The key information about the fabrics featured
R
R is also included in the charts at the back of
Y’ the book, usefully condensed and organized
S
into tables for quick reference when you’re

in the design studio or with a supplier.
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
is a key reference for the fashion designer
or fashion design student, simultaneously
ISBN: 978-0-7641-4628-2 instructing in fabric while developing skills
for the design room.
N
A
E
$35.00 Canada $41.99
www.barronseduc.com
TTXXDD BBaarroonnss fflleexxii jjkktt ffiinnaallRREEVV__..iinndddd 22 3rd Proof Title: TXD_TheFashionDesigerʼs_BarronsEdn : 29180 11//77//1111 33::3355::2288 PPMM
Job No: CPJ0111-5 / connie
B
A
U
Gail Baugh teaches textiles and merchandising This is the fabric and textile directory that dressmakers G ASHION DESIGNER’S
at both San Francisco State University and the and fashion designers have been waiting for. It’s like H XTILE DIRECTORY
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.
having your own personal textiles expert on hand to
She has extensive fashion industry experience,
particularly in global product development and recommend fabrics that match the effects you want to
sourcing for large retail chains. achieve. You’ll discover how different fabrics perform, Designers are trained to develop a vision
and you’ll learn the many ways to use them. in terms of surface, silhouette, and “good”
design; they are not trained to translate that
vision into understandable terms for the
The directory is organized by function. Do you want
textile industry. This book is designed
a fabric for its structure, fl uidity, added volume, to transcend this gap in communication.
T
defi nition, or decoration? Do you want a garment
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
that clings to the fi gure, or one that allows you to E
guides you through fi ve fabric categories,
construct a whole new silhouette? What is the overall X color-coded for easy navigation:
•
effect you are aiming to achieve—pretty, or lustrous Structure
•
T
and magnifi cent? Fluidity
•
Ornamentation
I •
L Expansion
Each fabric described in the directory comes with color •
Compression
E
photos of samples that illustrate its properties, helping
Illustrated and explained throughout with
you understand how a particular fabric’s qualities make
D
photographs of fabric samples, garments, and
it suitable for specifi c items of apparel.
diagrams. Each fabric entry included in the
I
directory has all the information you will need
R
At the back of the book you will fi nd essential guides to to make the right decision about the fabric for
fi ber properties, weaves, knits, weights, characteristics, E your design. Graphic icons representing fabric
C structure, weight, and any special fi nishes
and care advice.
provide a wealth of information without the
T need for lots of reading, and facts and fi gures
are summarized in bulleted lists.
O
The key information about the fabrics featured
R
is also included in the charts at the back of
Y the book, usefully condensed and organized
into tables for quick reference when you’re
in the design studio or with a supplier.
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
is a key reference for the fashion designer
or fashion design student, simultaneously
ISBN: 978-0-7641-4628-2 instructing in fabric while developing skills
for the design room.
N
A
E
$35.00 Canada $41.99
www.barronseduc.com
TTXXDD BBaarroonnss fflleexxii jjkktt ffiinnaallRREEVV__..iinndddd 22 3rd Proof Title: TXD_TheFashionDesigerʼs_BarronsEdn : 29180 11//77//1111 33::3355::2288 PPMM
Job No: CPJ0111-5 / connie
The Fashion
Designer’s
Textile
Directory
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The Fashion
Designer’s
Textile
Directory
Gail Baugh
BBBB1111 TTTTXXXXDDDD pppprrrreeeelllliiiimmmmssss rrrreeee vvvviiiisssseeeedddd....iiiinnnndddddddd 3333 JJoobb NNoo:: CCPPJJ11221100--1100//RRUUSSHHAANN UUSS TTeexxtt 11112222////11116666////11110000 2211::::33552222::::22000055 PPPPMMMM
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A QUARTO BOOK
First edition for North America published in 2011
by Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
Copyright © 2011 Quarto Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced or distributed in any form or by any
means without the written permission of the
copyright owner.
All inquiries should be addressed to:
Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
250 Wireless Boulevard
Hauppauge, New York 11788
www.barronseduc.com
Library of Congress Control No.:
2010940124
ISBN-13: 978-0-7641-4628-2
QUAR.TXD
Conceived, designed, and produced by
Quarto Publishing plc
The Old Brewery
6 Blundell Street
London N7 9BH
Senior editor: Lindsay Kaubi
Art editor: Susi Martin
Designers: Susi Martin, Joanna Bettles
Picture researchers: Sarah Bell, Susi Martin
Copy editor: Diana Chambers
Photographer: Philip Wilkins
Illustrator: Chris Taylor
Art director: Caroline Guest
Creative director: Moira Clinch
Publisher: Paul Carslake
Color separation by Pica Digital Pte Ltd, Singapore

Printed by 1010 Printing International Ltd in China
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
Author’s foreword 9
About this book 10
SECTION ONE:
Responsible design 14 Chino 91
The future of fabric production 16 Serge 92
Cavalry twill 93
SECTION TWO: Ripstop 94
The language of textiles 20 Ottoman 95
The supply chain 22 Dobby weaves for suiting 96
Fabric orientation 24 Tweeds 98
Fiber 26 Jacquard weaves 100
Yarn 33 Velveteen 102
Fabrics 35 Corduroy 104
Adding color 40 Brushed fabrics 106
Finishing 43 Fabrics from fiber 108
Garment care 47 Melton 110
Double knits 112
SECTION THREE: Coated fabrics 114
The textile directory 48 Microporous laminated fabrics 116
Introduction to the directory 50 Film fabric 118
Leather 120
Chapter one: Structure 52 Suede leather 122
Lawn 56 Faux leather and suede 124
Calico 57 Bonded and fused fabrics 126
High-density fabrics 58 Supporting structure 128
Broadcloth 60 Interlinings for structure 130
Poplin 61
Checks and plaids 62 Chapter two: Fluidity 132
Oxford 64 Chiffon 136
Surface shine: ciré and chintz 66 Georgette 137
Puckered surface: seersucker and plissé 67 Voile 138
Dobby weaves 68 Gauze 139
Taffeta 70 Lining 140
Faille and bengaline 72 Satin 142
Shantung 73 Crêpe de Chine 144
Sateen 74 Crinkled fabric 146
Bridal satin 75 Challis 148
Flannel 76 Surah 149
Flannelette 77 Jersey 150
Linen 78 Interlock 152
Sheeting 80 Matte jersey 153
Muslin 81 Fine-gauge sweater knits 154
Canvas 82 Pointelle knits 156
Homespun 84 Mesh 158
Hopsacking 85 Tricot 160
Denim 86 Traditional lace 162
Gabardine 90 Mass-market lace 164
Continued ▲
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Lamé 166 Chenille 245
Textured knits 168 Terry cloth 246
Designed knit surfaces 170 The concept of quilting 248
Satin crêpe 172 Minimum-loft quilting 249
Textured crêpe suiting 174 Medium-loft quilting 250
Smooth-surface crêpe 176 High-loft quilting 252
Tricot for athletics 178 Fur in apparel 254
French terry 180 Repurposed fur 255
Polar fleece 182 Commonly used faux fur 256
Velour 184 Exotic faux fur 258
Velvet 186
Medium-weight sweater knits 188 Chapter five: Compression 260
Heavyweight sweater knits 190 Compression with rigid fabrics 264
Ribbed knits 266
Chapter three: Ornamentation 192 Elastic ribbed knit banding 268
Contrast fabric shapes 196 Comfort stretch: top weights 270
Contrasting fabric: creating lines and Comfort stretch: casual woven fabrics 272
outlines with fabric 198 Comfort stretch: stretch denim 274
Functional tapes 200 Comfort stretch: stretch suiting 276
Decorative ribbon: satin and velvet 202 Comfort stretch: double knits 278
Decorative ribbon: grosgrain and taffeta 203 Power stretch: athletic knits 280
Decorative ribbon: jacquard 204 Power stretch: underwear knits 282
Decorative ribbon: dobby design 205 Power stretch: elastic power mesh 284
Passementerie trim 206 Power stretch: narrow elastic bands 286
Fringe 208
Narrow novelty trims 210 SECTION FOUR:
Narrow closure trims 212 The charts 288
Lace edging and appliqués 214 Introduction to the charts 290
Embroidery 216 Balanced plain weave 292
Embroidery threads 217 Unbalanced plain weave 294
All-over embroidered fabrics 218 Textured weave/Jacquard weave 296
Garment-specific embroidery 220 Pile weave/Basketweave 298
Embroidered denim 222 Twill weave 300
Satin weave 302
Chapter four: Expansion 224 Weft knit 304
Netting 228 Weft pile knit/Warp knitting 306
Organza 230 Warp pile knit/Jacquard warp knit 308
Organdy 231 Fiber to fabric/Lace 310
Crinoline 232
Buckram 233 Glossary 312
The concept of pleating 234 Resources 315
Pleated silk fiber fabrics 236 Index 316
Pleated cotton fiber fabrics 237 Credits and
Polyester plain-weave pleated fabrics 238 acknowledgments 320
Crêpe and satin crêpe pleated fabrics 239
Stitched pleating 240
Shirring 242
Bouclé 244
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4th Proof Title: TXD_The Fashion Designerʼs Textile Directory : 29180 QQ117755
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