The Efforts within the Apparel and Sewn Goods Industry

257 Pages·2016·2.03 MB·English

ABSTRACT
FENDER, SAVANNAH KAY. Rethinking Domestic: The Efforts within the Apparel and Sewn
Goods Industry (Under the direction of Dr. A. Blanton Godfrey and Dr. Lori Rothenberg).
Manufacturing within the United States has been the backbone of our nation for many
years. We depend on the labor it provides, the revenue it returns, and the overall creation of
quality goods. Today’s market is not the same as it was 40-50 years ago. As a nation we have
changed and adapted to consumers’ needs and wants; importing massively with limited exports.
The purpose of this research is to decipher where domestic manufacturing within the apparel and
sewn goods industry is today, and where we are headed in the future. Key components of
surviving in today’s market were established through storytelling and shadowing alongside men
and women within the industry.
The National Association for the Sewn Products Industry (SEAMS) is a prime example
of the optimism within the industry. SEAMS held their fall networking conference in South
Carolina. The theme of the 2016 event, was Riding the Waves of Change (Le & Duncan 2016).
Waves make for an ideal metaphor when it comes to describing the ups and downs domestic
manufacturing has held for textiles and sewn goods. The conference covered everything from
advancement of fibers and wearable technologies, to connecting with the consumer in the future
of retail and possible extension of hemp growth within the industry.
Quick turn and fast prototyping factories seems to be the aim of future manufacturing for
larger industries like Adidas and Under Armor (Le & Duncan 2016). However, this study
focused on facilities that were well established before the North American Free Trade
Agreement (NAFTA), as well as new partners within the industry and how they are helping
make a difference. The incline of domestics seems apparent, but at a more steady sustainable rate
than ever before.
The research set up four key objectives to detail. The objectives are as followed: RO1:
Identify the benefits and drawbacks of domestic manufacturing. RO2: Determine what trade-
offs, if any, it takes to produce domestically. RO3: Identify the corporate social responsibility in
domestic manufacturing. RO4: Characterize the ideal business model for producing
domestically.
Overall, the research established common themes from each participant. The stories
connect every participant in some way, through their relatable stories. The research works to
shine a light on both the pros and cons that take place when working domestically. The focus
was aimed at highlighting the growth and survival of people who stayed true to domestic
production.
© Copyright 2016 Savannah Kay Fender
All Rights Reserved
Rethinking Domestic: The Efforts within the Apparel and Sewn Goods Industry

by
Savannah Kay Fender

A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of
North Carolina State University
in partial fulfillment of the
requirements for the degree of
Master of Science

Textiles

Raleigh, North Carolina
2016

APPROVED BY:

_______________________________ _______________________________
Dr. A. Blanton Godfrey Dr. Lori Rothenberg
Committee Co-chair Committee Co-chair

_______________________________
Dr. Rosanna Garcia
DEDICATION
This thesis is dedicated to my amazing and inspiring parents. I hope to one day be the
parent and role model you are for me.
Thanks to all my family and friends for always supporting my passions and being my
number one fan group. I love you all very much, and am thankful for the continuous support!

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BIOGRAPHY
Savannah Kay Fender was born in Augusta, Georgia on June 13, 1993. She is the
daughter of Doug and Donna Fender, and has one older brother, Douglas II. In 1996, Savannah
and her family moved to Marion, Virginia, which was once home to a small but thriving textile
and manufacturing industry. Savannah grew up loving design and sewing. Savannah’s
grandmother was the first to show her how to sew. She later took lessons from their next-door
neighbor and family friend. Savannah is no stranger to what a past mill town looks like, having
grown up spending many summer days with her grandparents in Fries, Virginia home to
Washington Mills. Savannah later would discover her passion of combining both her love for
sewing and sense of community within small towns.
Upon graduation from high school, Savannah attended Radford University in Radford,
Virginia for her undergraduate education. At Radford University, Savannah was a work-study for
the Department of Interior Design and Fashion. Savannah worked closely with Dr. Kathy
Mitchell, who encouraged Savannah to continue her education and perhaps pursue teaching.
Savannah graduated honors with a B.F.A in Fashion Design and minor in Marketing.
After graduating from Radford University, Savannah went directly into pursuing her
masters. Once she visited NC State, she was certain the University was the perfect fit for her
future endeavors. Savannah was awarded a research and teaching assistantship upon acceptance
to NC State, under the guidance of Dr. Blanton Godfrey. During her time at NC State, Savannah
worked on fulfilling a Master of Science in Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management.
Savannah also worked closely with the Poole College of Management, to achieve a minor in
Business Administration. Savannah helped assist in the foundation of The Advancement of
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Women Entrepreneurs, a grant initiative, and helps to manage their events and planning. She has
also had the opportunity to work with Cotton Incorporated as a brand ambassador, and
participated in local charity events, like Couture for a Cause. NC State has earned Savannah
multiple connections throughout the industry and granted her many future freelancing
opportunities. She is passionate for all things sewn, and hopes to promote more manufacturing
on American soil. Savannah is excited to see where the future takes her!

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I would like to acknowledge and express my thanks towards Dr. Blanton Godfrey for
meeting with my parents and myself while touring at NC State. I was greatly encouraged by your
background and enthusiasm. Thank you for helping me decide State was the place for me.
Although I was never great at statistics I am thankful you were willing to take a gamble on me!
I would also like to thank Dr. Lori Rothenberg for inspiring me during my first semester,
and providing so many meaningful discussions throughout the year.
Thank you Dr. Katherine Annett-Hitchcock for being so welcoming on orientation day
and introducing me Dr. Rosanna Garcia. Working with The Advancement of Women
Entrepreneurs has encouraged me and allowed me to network with many amazing men and
women throughout the Triangle community.
I would like to thank the kind people at The Carolina Textile District for also taking me
in as one of your own and introducing me to so many inspiring men and women in the industry.
Without the District I would not have been able to journey to many of these amazing facilities
and meet the folks that I did. You all have granted me many privileges that I am extremely
thankful for.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................... 1
1.1. Statement of Purpose ............................................................................................. 1
1.2. Significance of Study ............................................................................................. 1
1.3. Limitations of Study .............................................................................................. 2
2. CHAPTER 2: REVIEW OF LITERATURE ..................................................................... 4
2.1. Introduction ............................................................................................................ 4
2.2. Background ............................................................................................................ 5
2.3. Perceptions ............................................................................................................. 8
2.4. Current Efforts ..................................................................................................... 13
2.4.1. Social Media ......................................................................................... 16
2.4.2. Organizations ........................................................................................ 16
2.4.2.1. Carolina Textile District (CTD)................................................... 18
2.4.2.2. SEAMS Association (SEAMS) ...................................................... 20
3. CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY ................................................................................... 21
3.1. Research Objectives ............................................................................................. 21
3.2. Research Design ................................................................................................... 23
3.2.1. Narrative qualitative approach .............................................................. 23
3.2.2. Theoretical framework .......................................................................... 23
3.2.3. Instrumentation - interview development ............................................. 24
3.3. Sample .................................................................................................................. 25
3.4. Data Collection .................................................................................................... 28
3.5. Data Analysis ....................................................................................................... 30
4. CHAPTER 4: RESULTS & DISCUSSION .................................................................... 31
4.1. Introduction .......................................................................................................... 31
4.2. Sample and Demographic Profile of Participants ................................................ 32
4.3. Interview Process ................................................................................................. 33
4.4. Data Analysis ....................................................................................................... 33
4.5. Background and History ...................................................................................... 34
4.5.1. Apparel Prototyping and Design Solutions, LLC (APaDS) ................ 34
4.5.2. Duluth Pack .......................................................................................... 35
4.5.3. Interviewee A ........................................................................................ 36
4.5.4. Interviewee B ........................................................................................ 37
4.5.5. Mamie Ruth .......................................................................................... 38
4.5.6. New South Manufactory ....................................................................... 38
4.5.7. Opportunity Threads ............................................................................. 39
4.5.8. SEAMS Association ............................................................................ 40
4.5.9. TexDel ................................................................................................... 41
4.5.10. TS Designs ............................................................................................ 41
4.5.11. Valdese Weavers ................................................................................... 42
4.6. RO1: Identify the benefits and the drawbacks of domestic manufacturing ......... 43
4.6.1. Benefits ................................................................................................. 44
4.6.2. Drawbacks ............................................................................................. 46
4.7. RO2: Determine what trade-offs, if any, it takes to produce domestically .......... 50
4.8. RO3: Describe corporate social responsibility in domestic manufacturing ......... 53
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4.9. RO4: Characterize the ideal business practices for producing domestically ..56
4.9.1. Initial Plan .........................................................................................58
4.9.2. Versatile ............................................................................................59
4.9.3. Transparency .....................................................................................59
4.10. Summary of Results ........................................................................................60
5. CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSION, RECOMMENDATION, AND FUTURE
RESEARCH .................................................................................................................62
5.1. Conclusion .......................................................................................................62
5.1.1. RO1: Identify the benefits and the drawbacks
of domestic manufacturing ..............................................................62
5.1.2. RO2: Determine what trade-offs, if any, it takes
to produce domestically ...................................................................64
5.1.3. RO3: Describe corporate social responsibility
in domestic manufacturing ................................................................65
5.1.4. RO4: Characterize the ideal business practices
for producing domestically .............................................................65
5.2. Recommendations ............................................................................................66
5.2.1. Developing a Business Model ..........................................................66
5.2.2. Educating Consumers .......................................................................67
5.2.3. Transparency .....................................................................................68
5.3. Limitation of Research .....................................................................................68
5.3.1. Human Error and Subjectivity Analysis ...........................................68
5.3.2. Sample Size .......................................................................................69
5.3.3. Timing ...............................................................................................69
5.4. Future Research ...............................................................................................69
5.4.1. Define American Made .....................................................................70
5.4.2. Consumer Impact ..............................................................................70
5.4.3. Test Production .................................................................................70
5.4.4. Community Participation ..................................................................71
5.4.5. Coast to Coast Study .........................................................................71
6. References ....................................................................................................................72
7. APPENDICES .............................................................................................................75
7.1. Appendix A - IRB Protocol Questions ...........................................................76
7.2. Appendix B – Interview Transcriptions ..........................................................78

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