The Brewer's Apprentice: An Insider's Guide to the Art and Craft of Beer Brewing, Taught by the Masters

481 Pages·2011·35.3 MB·English

by  Greg Koch

THE
BREWER’S
APPRENTICE
GREG KOCH AND MATT ALLYN
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
THE ART AND CRAFT OF
BEER BREWING, TAUGHT
BY THE MASTERS
Thanks to my family, friends, colleagues, fellow brewers (pro and
amateur), and everyone else generous with advice, insight, and a fresh
beer.
—Matt Allyn
To all the great brewers who have provided me with their liquid
inspiration, and who showed me many years ago that “beer” was so very
much more than the insipid nonsense of the TV commercials. Today,
Craft and Artisanal brewing is alive and well...and growing in nearly
every brewing culture. Here’s to adding one more log to that fire, as well
as another log to the funeral pyre of the notion that beer should be
reduced down to nothing more than a cheap, flavorless, commodified
fizzy yellow liquid!
— Greg Koch
CONTENTS
Introduction
Brewing Basics
1: Mashing and Lautering: Eric Harper, Summit Brewing Co., U.S.
2: Bittering Hops: Vinnie Cilurzo, Russian River Brewing Co., U.S.
3: Aroma Hops: Nick Floyd, Three Floyds Brewing Co., U.S.
4: Lager Brewing: Bill Covaleski, Victory Brewing Co., U.S.
5: Water Chemistry: Mitch Steele, Stone Brewing Co., U.S.
6: Brewing Like a Belgian: Tomme Arthur, The Lost Abbey, U.S.
7: Wheat Beer: Hans-Peter Drexler, Weissbierbrauerei G. Schneider &
Sohn, Germany
8: English Ales: John Keeling, Fuller, Smith & Turner, England
9: Lambic Brewing: Jean Van Roy, Brasserie Cantillon, Belgium
10: Brewing with Fruit and More: Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head Craft
Brewery, U.S.
11: Brewing Big Beer: James Watt, BrewDog Ltd., Scotland
12: Barrel Aging: Scott Vaccaro, Captain Lawrence Brewing Co., U.S.
13: Organic Brewing: Ted Vivatson, Eel River Brewing Company, U.S.
14: Tasting and Evaluating Beer: Ray Daniels, Cicerone Certification
Program, U.S.
15: Making Beautiful Beer: Ken Grossman, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.,
U.S.
16: Mead: Bob Liptrot, Tugwell Creek Meadery, Canada
17: Hard Cider: James Kohn, Wandering Aengus Ciderworks, U.S.
18: Traditional Cider: Jérôme Dupont, Domaine Familial Louis Dupont,
France
Brewer’s Glossary
Contributors
Resources
Index
Photo Credits
About the Authors
INTRODUCTION
TO OTHER CRAFT BEER ENTHUSIASTS, OUR
WILLINGNESS TO ENGAGE IN NEAR-CONSTANT
DIALOGUE ON OUR FAVORITE SUBJECT OFTEN
CONFOUNDS THOSE WHO HAVEN’T CHOSEN TO LIVE A
LIFE OF SUCH SUDSY IMMERSION. TO BE HONEST, THEY
CONFOUND US, TOO. WHEN YOU TAKE A MOMENT TO
TRULY CONTEMPLATE GREAT BEER, THE PATH IS
CLEAR... AND COMPELLING, REWARDING, ENRICHING,
SATISFYING.
I COULD GO ON.
QUITE WILLINGLY.
And as such, this book has been born. Although it pays homage to the time-
honored traditions of our favorite beverage, it is not just a repackaging of the
solid, classic brewing tomes. As valid, important, and necessary, as they are, The
Brewer’s Apprentice offers a more picturesque view into our favorite subject.
In the writing of this book, we have had the great privilege of taking many
educational sightseeing excursions along the great road-trip that is a brewing
life. Although this book could certainly be read in a straight-line fashion, and is
organized so it follows the steps of the brewing process, I invite you to bounce
around as you wish. Interested in a deep-dive into malt? Turn to chapter 1 and be
our guest. Eager to get a brewer’s-eye-perspective on traditional Bavarian-style
hefeweizens? Skip ahead to chapter 7, and learn from the best! Fancy a snifter of
imperial stout while curled by the fire reading tales of conquest and woe at the
hands of buggers such as Pedio, Brett, and Lactobacillus? Turn gingerly to
chapter 9 on spontaneous fermentation.
I once heard, and have since oft repeated, what has become a favorite saying:
“Buy a man a beer, waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, waste a lifetime.” While
I’ve known some who take offense to the saying, I feel that it is nothing but
complimentary. “Wasting an hour” suggests a temporary yet rewarding pause
from an otherwise hectic and go-go-go life. However, “wasting a lifetime” is not
a true “waste,” but instead, a diversion from the rat race into one of life’s nobler
pursuits: the art of brewing.

“Buy a man a beer, waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, waste a
lifetime.” While I’ve known some who take offense to the saying, I feel
that it is nothing but complimentary.
As noble as brewing is (and as just about anyone would attest if they were
anywhere past the half-pint mark), a junior executive might scoff at brewing,
instead preferring to pursue upward mobility. He can have his upward mobility,
as I don’t care much for it.
Not to say that I don’t crave forward movement and progress. I admit, I do. Does
this pose a conflict? Joyfully, no. The world of craft beer and brewing has
afforded me all of life’s rewards that I could wish for: satisfaction from a job
well done, respect of my friends and peers, standing in the community, access to
the world’s best culinary experiences, friends and comrades-in-arms around the
world, an endless opportunity for creative flow, and yes, the proverbial food on
the table.
And then there’s the beer. And the opportunity to work with co-author Matt
Allyn to bring you front-row and behind-the-scenes access to the greatest minds
and talents in the brewing world.
The world of home brewing is both stuck in old-world tradition (in the best of
senses) and simultaneously rocketing forward into new and barely charted
territories. We’ve had the privilege of consulting, cajoling, and cavorting with
both old friends and new to bring you unique access into the insights of those
who live and breathe the art of brewing. Many of the names you’ll hear in this
book are familiar, and we’re excited to bring you their insights. Other names will
be new, and this introduction invites further discovery, as you will no doubt be
inspired to seek out their fine work in order to back up the veracity of their
studied opinions.
You might expect a portion of this book to be dedicated to the straightforward
how-to of home brewing, or a starter’s guide to professional brewing. A novice
brewer might feel that omitting the basics of brewing might leave one with little
orientation, as though the steering wheel, speedometer, tachometer, and shift
column were completely omitted in favor of an on-board computer system and
the automatic window controls. After a brief introduction to the brewing process
and a glossary of equipment and ingredients, the book focuses on the technical,
diverse, and the spectacular. And a spectacular view it is.
So, pull the owner’s manual out of the glove compartment when you must
review the operational basics of brewing—there are many great ones out there,
and most likely you already have a trusted, well-worn, perhaps even wort-
stained one on your shelf. Leave this book on the coffee table to peruse when
you want to think about brewing (but not necessarily while you’re brewing).
A great beer in hand is optional, but it’s always in good taste.
— Greg Koch