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Fannie Merritt Farmer
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Title: The Boston cooking-school cook book
Author: Fannie Merritt Farmer
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK
BOOK ***
Table laid for Formal Dinner.—Frontispiece.
THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
COOK BOOK
BY
FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
OF MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERY
AUTHOR OF “CHAFING-DISH POSSIBILITIES,” AND “FOOD AND COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT”
REVISED
WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-FIVE NEW RECIPES, THE RECIPES FROM THE APPENDIX AND THE ADDENDA
INTRODUCED IN LOGICAL ORDER THROUGHOUT THE BOOK, AND ONE HUNDRED HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
BOSTON
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY
1910
Copyright, 1896, 1900, 1901, 1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906
By Fannie Merritt Farmer
TO
MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL,
President of the Boston Cooking School,
IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND UNTIRING EFFORTS IN
PROMOTING THE WORK OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE ELEVATION OF THE
HUMAN RACE,
THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
By the Author.
Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the
knowledge of all herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and groves and
savory in meats. It means carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the
economy of your grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist; it means much testing and no wasting; it
means English thoroughness and French art and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be
perfectly and always ladies—loaf givers.—Ruskin.
PREFACE
“But for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life requires nourishment.”
With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been forgotten. During the last
decade much time has been given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a
subject which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not
far distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an essential part of one’s education. Then
mankind will eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease will be less
frequent.
At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have been urged to prepare this book,
and I trust it may be a help to many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon
as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an interest through its condensed
scientific knowledge which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.
F. M. F.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter
Page
I.
Food
1
II.
Cookery
15
III.
Beverages
32
IV.
Bread and Bread Making
46
V.
Biscuits, Breakfast Cakes, and Shortcakes
70
VI.
Cereals
85
VII.
Eggs
94
VIII.
Soups
109
IX.
Soups without Stock
135
X.
Soup Garnishings and Force-meats
145
XI.
Fish
151
XII.
Beef
191
XIII.
Lamb and Mutton
214
XIV.
Veal
226
XV.
Sweetbreads
232
XVI.
Pork
235
XVII.
Poultry and Game
240
XVIII.
Fish and Meat Sauces
265
XIX.
Vegetables
280
XX.
Potatoes
309
XXI.
Salads and Salad Dressings
322
XXII.
Entrées
348
XXIII.
Hot Puddings
390
XXIV.
Pudding Sauces
406
XXV.
Cold Desserts
411
XXVI.
Ices, Ice Creams, and other Frozen Desserts
433
XXVII.
Pastry
460
XXVIII.
Pies
466
XXIX.
Pastry Desserts
475
XXX.
Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers
482
XXXI.
Cake
497
XXXII.
Cake Fillings and Frostings
524
XXXIII.
Fancy Cakes and Confections
533
XXXIV.
Sandwiches and Canapés
549
XXXV.
Recipes for the Chafing-dish
556
XXXVI.
Fruits: Fresh, Preserved, and Canned
567
XXXVII.
Helpful Hints for the Young Housekeeper
586
XXXVIII.
Suitable Combinations for Serving
592
Breakfast Menus
592
Luncheon Menus
594
Dinner Menus
597
Menu for Thanksgiving Dinner
600
Menu for Christmas Dinner
600
A Full Course Dinner
600
Menus for Full Course Dinners
602
Glossary
605
Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery
607
Index
617
ix
x
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Table laid for Formal Dinner
Frontispiece
Facing
Page
A Group of Kitchen Utensils
14
Measuring Cups and Tea and
Table Measuring Spoons
15
The Whipping of Heavy and
Thin Cream
15
Five o’Clock Tea Service
34
Chocolate Service
34
Coffee Percolators and Pot
35
After-Dinner Coffee Service
35
Punch Service
44
Claret Cup Service
44
Double Loaves of Milk and
Water Bread
45
Boston Brown Bread
45
Parker House Rolls; Salad
Rolls; Clover Leaf Biscuit;
Sticks
58
Sweet French Rolls
58
Coffee Cakes (Brioche)
59
Swedish Tea Ring; Swedish
Tea Braid
59
Swedish Tea Ring II before
baking
64
Swedish Tea Ring II
64
Raised Hominy Muffins
65
Pop-Overs
65
Waffles
80
Strawberry Shortcake
80
Shirred Egg
81
Eggs à la Commodore
81
Planked Eggs
104
Plain Omelet
104
Utensils and Materials for
the starting of Brown Soup
Stock
105
Utensils for making Cream
Soups
134
Cream Soup and Croûtons
ready for serving
134
Croûtons; Imperial Sticks;
Mock Almonds
135
Souffléd Crackers
135
Broiled Mackerel garnished
with
Potato
Balls,
Cucumber Ribbons, Slices
of Lemon cut in fancy
shapes, and Parsley
160
Hollenden Halibut
160
Stuffed Haddock ready for
baking
161
Smelts prepared for cooking
161
Planked Haddock
170
Fillets of Fish à la Bement
170
Oyster Cocktail I and II
171
Clams Union League
186
Oysters à la Ballard
186
Lobster Cocktail
187
Fruit Cocktail
187
xi
xii
Cuts of Beef
194
Cuts of Beef
195
Planks for Planked Dishes
200
Beefsteak à la Maribeau
200
Side of Veal
201
Side of Lamb
201
Kidney Lamb Chop; Rib
Chop; French Chop
218
Crown of Lamb, prepared
for roasting
218
Saddle
of
Mutton
as
purchased
219
Saddle of Mutton Roasted
and Garnished
219
Sweetbreads à la Napoli
234
Braised
Sweetbreads
Eugénie
234
Breslin Potted Chicken in
Casserole Dish
235
Chicken
Broiled
and
Garnished
235
Roast Turkey garnished for
serving
256
Duck, stuffed and trussed
for roasting
256
Stuffed Egg Plant
257
Purée of Spinach
257
Macedoine of Vegetables à la
Poulette
308
Stuffed Peppers
308
O’Brion Potatoes
309
Potato Croquettes ready for
frying
316
Potato Nests and Potatoes,
Somerset Style
316
Cucumber Salad
317
Cucumber Baskets
317
Asparagus Salad, Individual
Service
330
Berkshire Salad in Boxes
330
Egg Salad
331
Pear Salad
331
Mexican Jelly
342
Lobster Salad III
342
Oyster Crabs à la Newburg,
Individual Service
343
Sweetbread Ramequins
343
Russian Cutlets
374
Dresden Patties
374
Devilled Crabs
375
Pan Broiled Lamb Chops à la
Lucullus
375
Chaud-froid of Eggs
386
Capon in Aspic
386
Harvard Pudding served
with Crushed Berries and
Whipped Cream
387
Snowballs garnished with
Strawberries
387
Toasted Marshmallows
422
Royal Diplomatic Pudding
422
Charlotte Russe
423
Orange Trifle garnished with
Whipped Cream, Candied
Orange
Peel,
and
Blossoms
423
xiii
Coup Sicilienne
442
Coup à l’Ananas
442
Coffee Ice Cream served in
half of Cantaloupe
442
Vanilla Ice Cream served in
half of Cantaloupe with
Fruit Garnish
442
Bombe Glacée
443
Junket Ice Cream with
Peaches
443
Utensils and Materials for
the making of Puff Paste
460
Calvé Tarts
460
Patties
garnished
with
Pastry Rings and Parsley
461
English Meat Pie
461
Cheese Straws
474
Cocoanut Tea Cakes
474
Fruit Baskets
475
Lemon Tartlets
475
Rich Cookies
488
Royal Fans
488
Chocolate
Cakes
and
Crescents
489
Meringues
489
English Rolled Wafers I-II
494
Marguerites I
494
Mocha Cakes and Small
Éclairs
495
Ice Cream Cake with Nut
Caramel Frosting
495
Cake
frosted
for
St.
Valentine’s Day for the use
of Mocha Frosting
532
Ornamental Frosted Cake
532
Dipped Walnuts
533
Bonbons
533
Cream Mints
548
Candied Orange Peel
548
Bread and Butter Folds
549
Noisette Sandwiches
549
Lobster Canapé
554
Canapé Martha
554
Jelly
Bag
and
other
necessary utensils for jelly
making
555
Marmalades,
Jams,
and
Jellies
555
Utensils
necessary
for
canning
576
Canned Fruits
576
Red Peppers being prepared
for canning
577
Pickles ready for serving
and Crock for keeping
Pickles
577
Table laid for Breakfast
592
Luncheon Table laid for Fish
Course
593
Table
laid
for
Formal
Luncheon
596
Centrepiece for Luncheon or
Dinner Table
597
Centrepiece
for
Thanksgiving
Dinner
Table
597
xiv
xv
Christmas Dinner Table
600
Table laid for Reception
601
F
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK
BOOK
CHAPTER I
FOOD
ood is anything which nourishes the body. From fifteen to twenty elements enter into the
composition of the body, of which the following thirteen are considered: oxygen, 62½%; carbon,
21½%; hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium,
magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%.
Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements composing the body must be
found in the food. The thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable
and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must undergo chemical change
after being taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive
system.
Food is classified as follows:—
I.
Organic
1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous)
2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch)
3. Fats and oils
II.
Inorganic
1. Mineral matter
2. Water
The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They furnish energy, but at greater cost than
carbohydrates, fats, and oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or
phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and glycogen) and some vegetable
foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent
of proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical
composition; as, albumen in eggs, fibrin in meat, casein in milk and cheese, vegetable casein or legumen
in peas, beans, and lentils; and gluten in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatin.
The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain heat. They contain carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits,
cereals, sugars, and gums.
The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used as needed, and constitute the
adipose tissues of the body. Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the
olive-tree.
The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts which are found in all animal and
vegetable foods. Examples: sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of
sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.
Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all tissues and fluids; therefore its
abundant use is necessary. One of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is
found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.
1
2
CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD
Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a person in normal condition.
Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared foods on the market) should
constitute the diet of a child for the first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time
ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread, baked potatoes,
cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson’s
Educators in place of the various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better nourished;
with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones, and experience has shown that
children seldom tire of them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits,
vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and meat may be introduced, if given
sparingly. Always avoid salted meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried food,
pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and iced water. For school children the diet
should be varied and abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and
physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from over-work, the cause has often
been traced to impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that
the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school luncheon-counter!
The daily average ration of an adult requires
4½ oz. proteid
2 oz. fat
18 oz. starch
5 pints water
About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a beverage. To keep in health and
do the best mental and physical work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate
climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though they do the same
amount of work as men, as a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their proteid in a form
easily digested. In consideration of this fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for meat. The
working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something to act upon.
Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry, will not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive
organs lessen in activity, and the diet should be almost as simple as that of a child, increasing the amount
of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount of proteids and fat. Many diseases which occur after middle
life are due to eating and drinking such foods as were indulged in during vigorous manhood.
3
4
WATER (H2O)
Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from five sources,—rains, rivers,
surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly
pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For town and city supply,
surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and
frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.
The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and magnesia which it contains. Soft
water is free from objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be
softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO3).
Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and
burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65°
F. water is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F., tepid; 92° to 100° F., warm; over that temperature, hot.
Boiled water is freed from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated: it does not ferment,
and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty
stomach, while at a temperature of from 60° to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most
favorable temperature.
Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal purposes. It is flat and insipid to the
taste, having been deprived of its atmospheric gases.
There are many charged, carbonated, and mineral spring waters bottled and put on the market; many
of these are used as agreeable table beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and
Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters.
5
SALTS
Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt;
it exists in all tissues, secretions, and fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of the teeth. The
amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion,
inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.
Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea-water, also from mines. Our supply of salt
obtained by evaporation comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and
Kansas.
Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat and fish.
Other salts—lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron—are obtained in sufficient quantity
from food we eat and water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends
upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and fish, but abound in
cereals.
