The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts

304 Pages·2011·46 MB·English

by  David McMillan

Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs, meat, or �sh. When these foods are consumed raw, there is always the risk that
bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking, may be present. For this reason, when serving these foods raw, always buy certi�ed
salmonella-free eggs and the freshest meat and �sh available from a reliable grocer, storing them in the refrigerator until they are
served. Because of the health risks associated with the consumption of bacteria that can be present in raw eggs, meat, and �sh, these
foods should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any persons who may be
immunocompromised. The author and publisher expressly disclaim responsibility for any adverse e�ects that may result from the use or
application of the recipes and information contained in this book
Text copyright © 2011 by Meredith Erickson, Frédéric Morin, and David McMillan
Foreword copyright © 2011 by David Chang
Photographs copyright © 2011 by Jennifer May
Illustrations copyright © 2011 by Frédéric Morin
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random
House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Grateful acknowledgment is made to Labour/Le Travailleur for permission to use an excerpt from Joe Beef of Montreal: Working Class
Culture and the Tavern, 1869–1889 by Peter DeLottinville (Labour/Le Travailleur, 8/9, Autumn/Spring, 1981–1982, 9–40). Reprinted by
permission of Labour/Le Travailleur.
Grateful acknowledgment is made to the following for permission to reprint previously published material:
Exporail, the Canadian Railway Museum: train illustrations, 3.1; dining car menus, 3.2; and Canadian Paci�c logo, ack.1. Reprinted by
permission of Exporail, the Canadian Railway Museum. McCord Museum: photographs and maps of Joe Beef’s Canteen (M995X.5.35.4),
itr.1 and 2.1; Joe Beef of Montreal (UAPT5014), itr.2; City of Montreal (M4824), 2.2; Molson’s Brewery beer cart (VIEW-8753), 3.3; and
A New Map of the Province of Quebec (M3683), 4.1. Reprinted by permission of the McCord Museum.
All photographs are by Jennifer May with the exception of those noted here: 1.1 (left), 1.2 (left), 2.3, 2.4 (row 1 center and right, row 2
left and center, row 3 left, row 4 left and center), 2.5, and 7.1 by David McMillan; 1.3 (left) by Meredith Erickson; 2.6 by Marie-Claude
St-Pierre; 2.7 by Doris McMillan; 4.1 and 7.2 by Chris Snow; 5.1 by Frédéric Morin; 5.2 by Melanie Henault-Tessier; 7.3 by Eric
Deguire; and end sheets from a painting by Peter Ho�er.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on �le with the publisher.
eISBN: 978-1-60774-077-3
v3.1

CONTENTS
Foreword by David Chang
Introduction
Joe Beef of Montreal
CHAPTER 1
Building a Tiny Restaurant in the Middle of Nowhere
Foie Gras Parfait with Madeira Jelly
Marrowbones Cultivateur
Spaghetti Homard-Lobster
Oeufs en Pot
Scallops with Pulled Pork
Arctic Char for Two with Gulf of St. Lawrence Snow Crab
Foie Gras Breakfast Sandwich
Schnitzel of Pork
Pojarsky de Veau
Lièvre à la Royale
Lamb Paloise
CHAPTER 2
The Builders, the Brewers, the Bankers, and the Gangsters
Lamb Shoulder for Two, Condimint
Oeufs en Gelée
Duck Steak au Poivre
Pâté en Croûte
Blanquette de Veau aux Chicons
Filet de Cheval à Cheval
Pieds-Paquets with Sauce Charcutière
Brochette de Lapin aux Pruneaux
Pro�teroles de Chèvre et Céleri, Purée de Tomates et Persil, R.I.P. Nicolas
Jongleux
Veal Liver Brisket
Turbot au Vermouth de Chambéry
Époisses de Bourgogne à l’Echalote
CHAPTER 3
Trains!
Fred’s Top Canadian Train Itineraries
Le Grand Setup de Caviar
Tiny Sausage Links
Canard et Saucisse
Dining Car Calf Liver
Pork Fish Sticks
Box of Pullman Loaf
Peameal Bacon
Chicken Jalfrezi
Beer Cheese
Lentils Like Baked Beans
New England Clam Chowder
CHAPTER 4
The Seaway Snack Bar
Hot Oysters on the Radio
Oysters #37
Mouclade
Squid Stu�ed with Lobster
Smelt Mayonnaise
Whelks with Escargot Butter
Steamers
Smorgasbord
Black Pepper Crème Fraîche
Cucumber Salad
Dill Butter
Smoked Mackerel or Rainbow Trout
Maple Smoked Kamouraska Eel
Pickled Eggs with Celery and Horseradish
Char Tartare
Aquavit Onions
Cured Char with Gin
Nova Scotian “Salmon” Gundy
Potato Salad with Cider Vinegar and Shallot
Smoked West Coast Oysters
Smoked Sturgeon and Scallops
Razor Clams Video Lottery Terminal, aka Clams Casino
Corn�ake Eel Nuggets
Baked Common Crab
Mackerel Benedict
CHAPTER 5
The Smoker
Building Your Own Smoker
The Hot Délicieux Sandwich
Smoked Baby Back Ribs
Good Fries
Liverpool House Rabbit Sausage
Porchetta alla Joe Beef
Preserved Stone Fruits
Smoked Cheddar with Doughnuts
Tall Tales, Taste, and a Few Theories
Éclair Velveeta
Ricotta Gnocchi with Rich and Tasty Red Sauce
Joe Beef Double Down
Chicken Skin Jus
Chicken Skin Tacos
Purée de Fines Herbes
Mustard
BBQ Sauce
An Easy Hollandaise
Sour Crudités
Tru�ed Eggs with Everything Biscuits and Watercress
Purée de Pommes de Terre
Polenta
CHAPTER 6
Building a Garden in a Crack Den
Parc Vinet Salad
Pickled Rhubarb
Salade d’Endive
Bagna Càuda and Aioli
Jerusalem Artichokes with Ketchup
Apple Vinny
Cider Turnips
Carrots with Honey
Baked Mushrooms with New (or Old!) Garlic
Herbes Salées
Kale for a Hangover
Cauli�ower Gratin
Spring Beets
Petits Farcis
CHAPTER 7
A Word on Booze
The Vijay Singh
Roman Coke
Sausage Martini
The Master Cleanse
Gin ’n’ Jews
Bock Tomate
Robert Roy
The Raw Beef
Joe Beef César
Burdock Root Wine
Cold Mulled Wine
Making Your Own Absinthe
CHAPTER 8
Putting the “Beef” in Joe Beef
Strip Loin Steak
Côte de Boeuf
Zesty Italian Tartare
Daube de Joues de Boeuf Chaude (Hot)
Deviled Kidney and Hanger on Toast
Filet de Boeuf: The Postmodern O�al!
Beef Shank Stock
Montreal Steak Spice
Joe Beef Sauce Vin Rouge
Onion Soup Sauce
Gentleman Steak Sauce
CHAPTER 9
The Dessert Chariot
Marjolaine
O + G’s Cardamom Banana Bread