The Art of Fermentation: An In-Depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes from Around the World

722 Pages·2012·16.04 MB·English

by  Sandor Ellix Katz

Praise for The Art of Fermentation
“The Art of Fermentation is much more than a cookbook. . . . Sure, it tells you
how to do it, but much more important, it tells you what it means, and why an
act as quotidian and practical as making your own sauerkraut represents
nothing less than a way of engaging with the world. Or rather, with several
different worlds, each nested inside the other: the invisible world of fungi and
bacteria; the community in which you live; and the industrial food system that
is undermining the health of our bodies and the land. This might seem like a
large claim for a crock of sauerkraut, but Sandor Katz’s signal achievement in
this book is to convince you of its truth. To ferment your own food is to lodge
an eloquent protest—of the senses—against the homogenization of flavors and
food experiences now rolling like a great, undifferentiated lawn across the
globe. It is also a declaration of independence from an economy that would
much prefer we were all passive consumers of its commodities, rather than
creators of unique products expressive of ourselves and the places where we
live.”
—MICHAEL POLLAN, from the Foreword
“The Art of Fermentation is an extraordinary book, and an impressive work of
passion and scholarship. It lays the foundation for fermenting all kinds of
foods, and whoever reads it will be able to negotiate any recipe for ferments
(and conquer any lingering nervousness about fermentation) with impunity. I
am so impressed—and ready to begin! Thank you, Sandor Katz.”
—DEBORAH MADISON, author, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and Local Flavors
“Sandor Katz has proven himself to be the king of fermentation with this new
book, an exhaustive yet very readable compendium of fermentation wisdom
and techniques from around the world. A must-have in the libraries of anyone
interested in food and nutrition.
—SALLY FALLON MORELL, President, The Weston A. Price Foundation
“Sandor Katz has already awakened more people to the diversity and
deliciousness of fermented foods than any other single person has over the last
century. Once you look at the world through the fresh eyes of such a genius,
there is no going back to the tasteless world you had previously occupied. The
Art of Fermentation is a wonder—so rich in its knowledge and so practical in
its application. This book will be a classic for the next millennium.”
—GARY PAUL NABHAN, author, Renewing America’s Food Traditions and Desert Terroir
“The Art of Fermentation is a remarkable testimony to the astonishing passion
that Sandor Katz has for all matters fermentative. History, science, and simple
how-to wisdom are woven together in this extensive journey through the
amazing diversity of foods and beverages that are founded upon
fermentation.”
—DR. CHARLIE BAMFORTH, Professor, Department of Food Science and Technology, University
of California, Davis, and author, Food, Fermentation and Microorganisms
“This is, quite simply, the finest book on fermentation available. It is
comprehensive, erudite, and surprisingly profound. Sandor Katz is the guru of
a large and growing tribe of fermentation enthusiasts, and this book will
awaken you to the thrilling world of benign bacteria all around us. Not only do
they provide us with pickles, cheese, bread, alcohol—but our existence
depends on bacteria and they deserve our reverence and respect.”
—KEN ALBALA, food historian and coauthor, The Lost Arts of Hearth and Home: The Luddite’s
Guide to Domestic Self-Sufficiency
“The Art of Fermentation appeals to our personal and fundamental well-being,
with a thoroughly engaging account of wild, tamed, and unaccounted-for
microorganisms. Based on theory, science, and practical observations, Sandor
Katz casts thousands of dots onto the pages for us to connect with our own
experiences and interests. There are things he writes in this book that are
relevant to everyone. Whether we are at war or peace with the tiny creatures
we call microorganisms, we can’t help but conclude that they are the building
blocks of the communities we observe as organisms. His obsession with
ferment is contagious. With the flip of a page it’s easy to find oneself
discovering our own personal journey embedded in this thoroughly engaging
book.”
—CHARLIE PAPAZIAN, author, The Complete Joy of Homebrewing
“Sandor Katz has captured the essence of fermentation in this new book,
which bubbles over with scientific, historical, and practical information about
humankind’s first biotechnology and earth’s first energy source. The mystery
and sensory allure of naturally fermented products ranging from fruit, honey,
milk, all manner of starchy grain, tuber, and stalk—even fish and meat—are
laid bare and enthusiastically and lucidly brought to life for both epicure and
the do-at-homer.”
—PATRICK E. MCGOVERN, Scientific Director, Biomolecular Archaeology Laboratory, University
of Pennsylvania Museum, and author, Ancient Wine and Uncorking the Past

Copyright © 2012 by Sandor Ellix Katz.
All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be transmitted or reproduced in any form by any means without permission in
writing from the publisher.

Project Manager: Patricia Stone Developmental Editor: Makenna Goodman Copy Editor: Laura Jorstad
Proofreader: Eileen M. Clawson Indexer: Margaret Holloway
Bacteria Border Illustration: Caroline Paquita
Chapter Illustrations: Elara Tanguy
Designer: Maureen Forys, Happenstance Type-O-Rama

All photographs by Sandor Ellix Katz, unless otherwise credited.

DISCLAIMER: Information offered in this book is based on years of experimentation, experience, and
research. Parameters for safety and warnings of dangers are presented throughout the book and ought to be
heeded. However, the author is not a trained professional in food science, food safety, health care, or any
other field; neither he nor the publisher is responsible for the consequences of the application or
misapplication of any information or ideas presented herein.

Printed in the United States of America First printing April, 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 13 14 15 16

Our Commitment to Green Publishing Chelsea Green sees publishing as a tool for cultural change and
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manufacturers, and authors working to protect the world’s endangered forests and conserve natural
resources. The Art of Fermentation was printed on on FSC®-certified paper supplied by RR Donnelley that
contains at least 50% postconsumer recycled fiber.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Katz, Sandor Ellix, 1962—
The art of fermentation : an in-depth exploration of essential concepts and processes from around the
world/Sandor Ellix Katz ; foreword by Michael Pollan.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-1-60358-286-5 (hardcover)—ISBN 978-1-60358-364-0 (ebook) 1. Fermentation. 2. Fermented
foods. I. Title.

TP371.44.K369 2012
664’.024—dc23

2011052014
Chelsea Green Publishing
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www.chelseagreen.com
For my father, Joe Katz, whose favorite thing to talk about is the
vegetables coming out of his garden and all the things he and my
stepmother Pattie do with them; the acorn doesn’t fall far from the
tree. I dedicate this book to him and to the many other teachers,
mentors, and elders who have guided and inspired me throughout my
life.