Table Of ContentTHE WESTERN AUSTRALIAN
NATURALIST
Vol. 27 8th April 2011 No. 4
THE 1990 EXPEDITION TO CAMDEN HARBOUR, NORTH¬
WEST KIMBERLEY: PART 1 - BACKGROUND AND
EXPEDITION NARRATIVE
By KEVIN CO ATE
11 Peak View, Canning Vale, W.A. 6155
INTRODUCTION convict agreeing to accompany a
party to the area an expedition
My interest in visiting Camden was quickly formed in charge of
Harbour began some years before Frederick K Panter, Inspector of
my first visit in 1984 when my Police. Dr James Martin, having
wife, Yvonne, researching her been involved in a previous
family tree, found members of expedition to the area in 1863,
her family were involved in an was included as surveyor-
expedition to Camden Sound in botanist. The 105 ton schooner
March 1864. New Perseverance was chartered to
At that time a convict named convey them to Camden. The
Henry Wildman, serving a captain of the vessel was William
sentence in Fremantle gaol, Owston, a relative of my wife. He
convinced the authorities, that as and David Jones (another relative
a crewman on a Spanish ship, he and shipwright) built the New
went ashore in Camden Sound Perseverance in 1857 at Preston
and found gold. Although Point on the Swan River. Others
suspicious of his claim a check with family connections in¬
revealed he had indeed been the volved in the syndicate hoping
possessor of several nuggets of to profit from the discovery of
the precious metal prior to his gold, were Frederick and Henry
imprisonment. An agreement was Caporn, William Lawrence,
reached for a review of Wildman’s George Mason and Alexander
sentence providing his claims Thomas.
could be substantiated. On the Their high expectations were
193
never fulfilled. It soon became Government under Governor
evident after the New Perseverance John Stephen Hampton, that
arrived in Camden Sound, that caught the eye of William Harvey,
the convict Wildman had been an astute land developer in
leading them up the garden path. Victoria. He seized the
Despite exploratory trips on the opportunity and promoted a
mainland, no sign of auriferous scheme to entice investors. The
country was found and they Camden Harbour Pastoral
returned to Perth disappointed Association was formed with an
men. However, Martin named a aim to raise capital of twenty-six
number of features and described thousand pounds in one-
a distinctive boab tree on which hundred pound shares - a
two crocodiles were carved, considerable sum for those days.
growing close to the beach at the This was considered sufficient to
base of Mt Lookover. Fred Caporn secure four million acres of
and Walter Scott (another suitable country on which to
member of the expedition) were place four thousand breeding
at the time recorded as having cattle. The aims of the association
cut their names into the same as stated in the company’s
tree, in a report to the authorities prospectus, was “To settle the
on their return, William Owston very superior well watered
and Frederick Panter referred to pastoral and agriculture country
the unhealthy nature of the around Camden Harbour, by
country. Dr Martin who reported placing one herd of cattle on
favourably in 1863 on the every 1,000 acres ...”. it all sounded
potential of the area to carry very convincing, but there were
stock, still retained that view. many deliberate misleading and
erroneous statements in the
prospectus and no director or
CAMDEN HARBOUR others connected to the scheme
SETTLEMENT IN 1864 had visited the area to check on
its feasibility.
Favourable accounts from
explorers such as George Grey in December 1864 members of
(1838), John Lort Stokes (1838) and the Camden Harbour Pastoral
Dr James Martin (1863-1864), as Association with their stock, left
to the suitability of Camden as a Melbourne in three sailing ships
harbour and the surrounding for the North West of Western
country for pastoral use, were the Australia. The first ship to leave
catalyst to the disastrous was the 400-ton barque Stag
sequence of events that followed followed a little later by the 700-
in the latter part of 1864. It was ton Helvetia and 822-ton Calliance.
these reports and keenness to They sailed westward across the
expand and develop pastoral land Great Australian Bight, rounded
in the North West by the Cape Leeuwin and beat their way
Western Australian Colonial northward to Adele Island, before
194
turning east toward the main¬ ton barque Tsien Tsin and
land and into Camden Harbour. established a camp on the main¬
Shortly after arrival the settlers land opposite Sheep Island, where
established themselves on a creek the earlier arrivals had estab¬
with a small pool at the head of lished horse yards. This place
an inlet in the south of Camden known to Aboriginal people as
Harbour, known to Aboriginal Andandilia was referred to as the
people as Momorinyam, but Government Camp.
referred to by others as the Shortly after arrival, much to
Settlers or Association Camp. Robert Sholl’s surprise, he was
The Western Australian Colonial approached by representatives of
Government, in assuming that the Pastoralists Association with
such a well organised group a request for government assist¬
would succeed, supported them ance to leave Camden. It was
by appointing Robert J. Sholl as apparent that the venture was a
Resident Magistrate in charge of fiasco and that morale was at rock
a large government party, which bottom. Many disillusioned
included surveyors to mark out a settlers after finding the area
future townsite named Elliot. unsuitable had already left for
They arrived at Camden Harbour pastoral pursuits elsewhere.
in February 1865 aboard the 254- Co-incidentally around the same
195
time another settlement was sions with Kevin Kenneally, a
undergoing similar problems at senior botanist at the Western
Escape Cliffs in Adam Bay, Australian Herbarium. After a
Northern Territory. A small party favourable response from him
of settlers from that venture, and a willingness to become
unaware of the problems beset¬ involved, 1 began planning and
ting those in the Kimberley, organising an expedition into the
would soon be making their way region.
in an open boat to Camden in the
The aims of the expedition were -
hopes of settling there. Both
(1) To record, collect and observe
ventures were disasters from
the flora, fauna and marine life.
beginning to end. Camden was
finally abandoned at the end of (2) To look at sites connected to
October 1865, after eleven the abortive Camden Harbour
months of heartbreak and misery. Pastoral Association settlement.
Since my first expedition to the (3) To locate natural land features
Kimberley Coast in 1984 with the and check that they are correctly
Western Australian Naturalists’ shown on current maps.
Club, I had become intrigued not (4) To endeavour to learn the
only by the European history of Aboriginal names of various
the Camden area but also of the features.
Aboriginal, Maccassan and the
It was hoped that in some small
more recent cultured pearl
way, surveys such as this would
industry established at Kuri Bay.
help speed up research of the
region and see that future con¬
servation needs were adequately
NARRATIVE OF THE 1990
assessed and implemented.
EXPEDITION
7 July 1990-19 July 1990
Participants
Several government biological
We invited participation of
surveys have been undertaken
representatives from the Western
along the Kimberley coast since
Australian Museum, Department
1971. However, there was still
of Conservation and Land Man¬
much to learn. By the mid 1980s,
agement (CALM), Department of
as a nature-based tour operator in
Land Administration (DOLA)
the Kimberley, it was obvious to
and universities. Those who took
me that the coast was becoming a
up the offer were to be assisted in
major tourist attraction and to
their field work by volunteers. A
avoid exploitation it was vital to
base camp was planned to be
gain more knowledge of the area.
established near the remnants of
In 1989 with a view of taking a the old 1865 Government Camp
group of like-minded people for a at Camden Harbour. However
closer look at the natural history several days were to be spent in
of Camden Harbour and the Doubtful Bay and Glenelg River
surrounding area, 1 had discus¬ visiting remnant rain forests.
196
Kevin Kenneally and his volun¬ group. Berkeley Allen, Dr Larraine
teer assistant Daphne Edinger Brindle and Desmond O’Dwyer
were interested in extending wished to join the expedition
knowledge of the botany in the with the view to seeing the area
area. From discussions with the and where possible to assist others
Western Australian Museum, in gathering data. I was pleased to
Laurie Smith (herpetologist), have Peter, Lee, Berkeley, Allen
Greg Harold (ecologist), Angela and Jimmy as part of the team, as
Sanders (ecologist) and Loisette they back-packed with me in
Marsh (marine invertebrates) 1988, retracing the route of the
wished to be included. 1 met with explorer George Grey from
Brian Goodchild and Ian Elliot of Hanover Bay to the Sale River.
the Geographic Names section of All eighteen participants were to
DOLA regarding the possibility
share expenses and make their
of Ian’s involvement. Brian was a
own travel arrangements to
little pessimistic at receiving Broome, in order to board the 18-
funding for Ian’s participation,
metre charter vessel, Wave Spirit,
but thought a consideration for
on 7th July for an early departure
approval would be the involve¬ the following morning. It was
ment of Aboriginals able to pass
arranged with Dave Bleach,
on traditional names of features
owner of the Wave Spirit, for the
in the region. Earlier I indicated
boat to accompany the entire
to them my intention to seek
expedition - meals being pro¬
Aboriginal input and two
vided by the crew. The cost per
Aboriginals named Donald person ex Broome was $820.00.
Langgi and Neville Morlumbun
At a meeting in Derby with Brad
later joined the expedition in
Nesbit and David Mowaljarlai of
Broome.
the Gulingi Nangga Aboriginal
Peter Knight, his son Michael, Lee Corporation, 1 presented a case for
Vernon (Fontanini), Allan Smith the Corporation to arrange to
(my brother-in-law) and Jimmy fund two Aboriginals on the
Allison, expressed a desire to trek expedition. It was suggested that
overland from Camden Harbour it would be beneficial to send
to the McRae River. This was to someone who knew the country
retrace the exploratory route in and another who had not been
search of better land taken by there. The latter could benefit
Robert J. Sholl in 1865. On route from the knowledge, become
they would check natural familiar with the area and be
features and extend their company for each other. Initially
knowledge of the countryside. they rejected the idea and
Their plan was to trek to Sholl’s thought this approach to be a
furthest point and then head novel one. Their expectations
west to rendezvous at a pre¬ were that other members of the
arranged spot on the Glenelg expedition should cover the costs
River, with the remainder of the of Aboriginal involvement. The
197
nature of the venture was more a great opportunity for tradit¬
fully explained, pointing out it ional names of land features to be
was non-commercial and every¬ recorded and considered for
one was expected to cover their placement on current maps.
own cost. Having a DOLA Eventually they felt the ex¬
representative on board would be pedition had merit and it was
198
agreed that the Corporation apply and Howard Whelan at Australian
for a grant to cover costs Geographic seeking sponsorship,
(including travel between and obtained assurances of a
Broome and Derby) of two people. contribution of $1,000 from their
Another factor in the decision explorer’s fund. Two years earlier
may have been the rumours I had Australian Geographic had con¬
heard of the Gulingi Nangga tributed $3,000 toward the cost
Corporation wanting to establish of the expedition I organised re¬
land rights along the Kimberley tracing the route of the explorer
coast and were looking for suit¬ George Grey from Hanover Bay to
able sites to occupy to reinforce the Glenelg River in 1838.
their claims.
Acting on advice from Keith
The application for a grant was Murray (Berkeley Allen’s brother-
forwarded from Derby to The in-law), a former chef at Kuri Bay,
Aboriginal Lands Trust in Perth. 1 contacted two former employees
However, relevant correspond¬ of the Kuri Bay pearl farm. They
ence kept being misplaced (Barry Spencer and Hank Van
despite a number of calls 1 made Hoik) supplied useful
to John Ellies and later Neil Fong information on the Camden area,
who took over some of John’s both having spent considerable
responsibilities. Time was slip¬ time exploring out from the old
ping by and there appeared to be settlements. Hank invited me to
some confusion within The look through an album of
Aboriginal Lands Trust on who photographs taken over the years
was responsible for doing the he had spent around Camden. He
paper work. This was quite passed on the information that
frustrating. It was not until the 1990 was unusually dry and the
28th June, a week before de¬ fresh water spring near the
parture, that there was con¬ settler’s old campsite at
firmation of the grant being Association Creek was dry for the
approved. first time in the 17 years he had
1 visited Myra Stanbury at the been working at Kuri Bay. He also
Fremantle Maritime Museum, gave me the location of what he
who was very helpful in giving thought was a ‘wartime radio
me access to files on a museum shack’ hidden behind mangroves
expedition to Camden Harbour near a large boab tree.
in 1978. She made available, copies One of my objectives was to
of water colour sketches dated locate John Meaden’s grave. He
1865, of the Government Camp
was one of the settlers at the
layout, done by a pensioner guard Association Camp who had
named Richard Daley, which had perished in 1865. A black and
come to light as a result of
white photograph taken in 1949
publicity on the museum
by one of the Presbyterian
expedition.
Missionaries at Kunmunya was
1 corresponded with Valerie Reed passed on to my wife, Yvonne
199
(her interest being recording about 10 years of age, moved to
lonely graves) by George Wells, a Mowanjum. Neville aged 28 years
well known personality of Derby. and born in Derby, had tribal ties
Depicted squatting next to the to the Camden area, but had
fine granite headstone were never been there. Brad assured me
Michael (Nick) Bonser, a they would be in Broome at
carpenter from the Kunmunya 3.00pm on the day of departure
Mission, and two Aboriginals with a cheque to cover their
named Tommy alias Albundi and contribution. Kevin Kenneally
Albert alias Banongary. Neither phoned from Sydney and asked
Barry nor Hank had come across for an account to cover the
the grave in their wanderings. expedition costs be sent to the
They did not think that the Western Australian Herbarium.
headstone could be in an upright While in Sydney he met with
position or surely they would Dick Smith and Howard Whelan
have seen it, and were of the of Australian Geographic who ex¬
opinion it may have been pressed a great deal of interest in
toppled by feral donkeys. our expedition. For early packing
The week before departure from Daphne Edinger brought hers
and Kevin’s camping gear, in¬
Perth was extremely busy with
cluding collecting and plant
phone calls to Dave Bleach, his
presses - Peter Knight’s daughter,
skipper Chris Tucker, and
Sarah, delivered freeze-dried food
participants, arranging to pick up
for the trekkers - and Des Dwyer
luggage in the bus and trailer
hired from Coates Wildlife Tours. arrived with a stereo record player
to be dropped off for his son in
Brian Goodchild advised that lan
Broome.
Elliot had acquired two hand¬
held radios. Norm Lindus on On departing Perth it was a great
Koolan Island rang to say that Lee relief to be on our way and
Fontanini was still working comforting to know everyone
somewhere in the Prince Regent had paid or guaranteed their
River with an ABC film crew on expedition cost, as the terms for
a documentary titled ‘World Of chartering Wave Spirit which 1
The Wandjina’, but should be had covered, were that full
back in time. Brad Nesbit from payment be made three months
Derby notified me that Donald prior to take-off. Berkeley and
Langi (a Worrorra man from Cone Margaret Allen, Allan Smith,
Bay, who had passed through Jimmy Allison and my wife
Aboriginal law) and Neville Yvonne accompanied me on the
Morlumbun (from Mowanjum) bus. Yvonne and Margaret, not
had been selected at a meeting of being part of the expedition,
elders to accompany the intended to stay in Broome and
expedition. Donald aged 50 years await our return.
grew up at Kunmunya, later
shifting to Wotjalum and at
200
BROOME big cheque for $1,640 and were
Arriving in Broome early on 7 looking for Mr Coate to give it to.
July, we drove out on the jetty to We visited Aboriginals at
where the Wave Spirit was Kennedy Hill, around Streeter’s
moored. On board Chris Tucker jetty and searched the nearby
(skipper), Peter Hoffman known mangroves. Time was running
as Hoffie (deckie) and his wife out and so was the tide we
Sharon known as Shaz (a schools planned to leave on. We tried the
dental nurse, who joined the crew Roebuck Hotel only to find they
as cook over the school holidays), had been seen there earlier. By
were all hard at work preparing now we were beginning to
and cleaning. After unloading despair of finding them. Finally
the bus, I visited Gascoyne after more fruitless searching
Traders to pick up Loisette along the foreshore, speculation
Marsh’s marine collecting gear was mounting that we would
and booked Yvonne and the bus soon need to give up the search
into Roebuck Bay Caravan Park. and sail without them. At this
Margaret stayed with relatives point we met a couple of local
and long-term residents of police, who gave directions to
Broome, Keith and Elma Murray. three houses where Ngarinjin
Larraine Brindle checked our people from Derby sometimes
medical supplies to cover any stayed, adding it was possible our
emergency. blokes might be at one of them.
Other members of the party To our immense relief, they were
independently made their way to found at the last house in Paddy
Broome, where arrangements Court. Neville was playing cards
were to meet at the Broome with relatives and Donald was
Tourist Bureau at 3.00pm for asleep on a couch. The first thing
transportation to the Wave Spirit he said when 1 awoke him and
for a 4.00pm departure. All were identified myself, was “we’ve
there except Donald and Neville. been looking for you everywhere
After waiting some time 1 phoned Mr Coate - I’ve got a big cheque
the Gulingi Nangga Corporation to give you”, and pulling at his
in Derby to check on their trouser pocket he handed over
whereabouts. They were unable the previously sealed letter
to help, although someone enclosing the cheque. As quickly
thought they had left for as possible we bundled both into
Broome. I sent the bus off to the the vehicle, collected their gear
jetty for unloading, and with lan stashed at Kennedy Hill and sped
Elliot, began a search around off for the waiting boat, which
town for the missing pair. On we boarded at 6.00pm just as it
talking to Aboriginal people we was becoming dark. Ian and 1
quickly learnt that almost all have often chuckled about this
knew they were in town incident and how we scoured
somewhere, and that they had a Broome in search of them. We
201
later found out the Gulingi day these reefs are exposed for a
Nangga Corporation had not considerable distance from the
passed on the time and place they shoreline, making access difficult.
were to meet us. Of the three sailing ships
transporting the settlers to
Leaving Broome it was a clear
Camden, two arrived unevent¬
moonlit night and a calm sea
without swell or ripple. At dawn fully. However the Calliance ran
aground at Adele Island on one
everyone appeared to have coped
of the surrounding reefs. The
well with the sleeping arrange¬
ship sustained serious damage to
ments, which were on bunks or
its keel and had to jettison ballast
where ever a place could be
before being floated off on a high
found on deck. Donald and
Neville appeared to be a little tide.
quiet and subdued. It turned out A month earlier 1 had taken a
they were heavy smokers, but group of naturalists to Adele
had not thought to bring a Island and found Red-footed
supply of cigarettes with them Booby and Greater Frigatebird
and as a consequence were suffer¬ breeding, it was the first time
ing withdrawal symptoms. None these seabirds had been recorded
of the expedition party smoked breeding in Western Australian
but occasionally one of the boat waters and the opportunity of re¬
crew did and was able to ration visiting the island with like-
out to them a cigarette now and minded people was irresistible,
then when the craving became especially as there was also a
too acute. connection to the Camden
Harbour settlement.
On arrival at 11.00 am the bird
ADELE ISLAND
enthusiasts were first ashore,
Twenty-nine nautical miles followed closely by the botanists.
south of Adele Island we came A survey of the island was
upon a pod of Humpback undertaken, confirming the
Whales, two of which surfaced a breeding status of Red-footed
few metres from Wave Spirit. Boobies and Greater Frigatebirds.
Adele Island, located about 100 Colonies of Pied Cormorants,
km north of Cape Leveque on Pelicans, Brown Boobies, Masked
‘Dampier Peninsula’, is a major Boobies, Least Frigatebirds and
seabird breeding island. It is well Caspian Terns were also breeding
vegetated and composed almost and many waders were around
entirely of sand and has a large the lagoon and shoreline. A
tidal lagoon entering from the Boobook Owl was spotted roost¬
north-eastern end. The island is ing on a communication tower -
2.9 km in length and 1.6 kms goodness knows what had
wide and surrounded by induced it to fly over so many
extensive reefs and sandbanks 25 kilometres of ocean to get there.
km long by 11 km wide. Twice a Lee Fontanini’s camera just never
202
