Textile engineering : an introduction

219 Pages·2016·5.495 MB·English

by  Nawab, Yasir

Yasir Nawab (Ed.)
Textile Engineering
De Gruyter Textbook
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Textile Engineering
An Introduction
Edited by
Yasir Nawab
Editor
Dr. Yasir Nawab
National Textile University
Sheikhupura Road
Faisalabad – 37610
Pakistan
[email protected]
ISBN 978-3-11-041324-3
e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-041326-7
e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-042389-1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A CIP catalog record for this book has been applied for at the Library of Congress.
Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek
The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed
bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de.
© 2016 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston
Typesetting: Medienfabrik GmbH, Stuttgart
Printing and binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck
Cover image: Zoonar RF/Zoonar/Thinkstock
∞ Printed on acid-free paper
Printed in Germany
www.degruyter.com
Foreword
Textile engineering deals with the application of science to reveal the relationships
between the raw material, process and the finished product to achieve the desired
functional or aesthetic effects in the fabric. The success of fabric engineering depends
on reliable objective measurements, prediction and control of fabric quality and per-
formance attributes. Understanding the theoretical relationships between fabric
parameters enables the fabric designer to play with different fibres, yarn tex, threads
per centimeter and weave to vary texture and other fabric properties. These relation-
ships provide simplified formulae to facilitate calculations which are of value for
cloth engineering, problems of structure and mechanical properties.
The authors bring together expertise in textiles – raw materials, yarn manu-
facturing, fabric manufacturing, textiles processing, clothing, technical textiles,
textiles testing, recycling and disposal of textiles, quality control in textiles and
computer applications in textiles and basic principles of design engineering – as
a tool to support product development. This book is the culmination of teaching,
research and methodology in textile industry. It aims to give the readers a good foun-
dation in this area through an in-depth understanding of the principles of physical
and mechanical properties of woven textile structures. It is designed as a textbook
for undergraduates in textile engineering and also as a reference book for research
scholars. The concepts and applications have been demonstrated by the liberal use
of examples. The book gives a flavour of the basics and builds up to predictive mod-
eling of some fabric properties. Each chapter gives an abstract of the contents and
is concluded, wherever possible, with detailing how these contents can be used and
applied in practical situations.
We wish to thank the teachers and researchers in the National Textile University,
Faisalabad Pakistan, for their unstinting support in making this endeavor a reality.
We also owe our indebtedness to many others who are not mentioned for their indi-
rect contributions in enhancing our knowledge and providing us support. We would
like to acknowledge De Gruyter Publishing Limited for their encouragement and
assistance. It is hoped that this book will fill the vacuum in the literature on textile
engineering. We welcome feedback or suggestions for any errors that may have crept
into the book inadvertently.
Yasir Nawab

Contents
1 Introduction   1
1.1 What is Textile?   1
1.2 History of Textiles   1
1.3 Status of Textiles in World Exports   3
2 Textile Raw Materials   7
2.1 Classification   7
2.2 Natural Fibers   7
2.2.1 Cotton Fibers   8
2.2.2 Flax   10
2.2.3 Jute   12
2.2.4 Other Vegetable Fibers   13
2.2.5 Wool   14
2.2.6 Silk   15
2.3 Man-made Fibers   16
2.3.1 Spinning of Man-made Fibers   16
2.4 Regenerated Fibers   17
2.4.1 Viscose Fiber   17
2.4.2 Acetate Fiber   18
2.5 Synthetic Fibers   18
2.5.1 Nylon   19
2.5.2 Polyester   20
2.5.3 Other Synthetic Fibers   20
2.5.4 Glass Fiber   21
2.5.5 Carbon Fiber   22
3 Yarn Manufacturing   25
3.1 Introduction   25
3.1.1 Yarn   25
3.1.2 Spun Yarn   25
3.1.3 Yarn Number   25
3.2 Yarn Production   27
3.2.1 Lap   28
3.2.2 Sliver   28
3.2.3 Roving   28
3.3 Basic Preparatory Processes for Spinning Operations   28
3.3.1 Preparation of Cotton to Feed the Blow Room   28
3.3.2 Blow Room   29
3.3.3 Card   31
3.3.4 Difference Between Blow Room and Card Cleaning   33
viii   Contents
3.3.5 Drawing   33
3.3.6 Lap Former   35
3.3.7 Comber   35
3.3.8 Roving Machine   37
3.4 Spinning Operations   39
3.4.1 Ring Spinning   39
3.4.2 Winding   40
3.4.3 Open End Rotor Spinning   41
3.4.4 Air Jet Spinning   42
3.5 Types of Yarns   44
3.5.1 Staple Spun Yarn   44
3.5.2 Monofilament Yarn   45
3.5.3 Multifilament Yarn   45
4 Fabric Manufacturing   47
4.1 Weaving   47
4.2 Warp Preparation Steps   48
4.2.1 Winding   48
4.2.2 Warping   49
4.2.3 Sizing   50
4.2.4 Drawing In   52
4.3 Weaving Mechanisms   53
4.3.1 Primary Motions   53
4.3.2 Secondary Motions   53
4.3.3 Stop Motions   53
4.4 Types of Shedding Mechanism   53
4.4.1 Tappet Shedding   54
4.4.2 Dobby Shedding   54
4.4.3 Jacquard Shedding   54
4.5 Types of Picking Mechanism   54
4.5.1 Shuttle Picking   54
4.5.2 Projectile Picking   55
4.5.3 Rapier Picking   55
4.5.4 Water Jet Picking   55
4.5.5 Air Jet Picking   55
4.6 Weave Design   56
4.6.1 Plain   56
4.6.2 Twill   56
4.6.3 Satin / Sateen   57
4.7 Specialty Weaving   57
4.8 Knitting   58
4.9 Comparison of Woven and Knitted Fabrics   59
Contents   ix
4.10 Types of Knitting   60
4.10.1 Weft Knitting   60
4.10.2 Weft Knitting Machine Elements   61
4.11 Loop Formation Cycle with Latch Needle   63
4.12 Principle Stitches in Weft Knitting   64
4.13 Knitting Terms and Definition   65
4.13.1 Loop Parts   65
4.13.2 Technical Face and Back   65
4.13.3 Wales and Courses   66
4.13.4 Stitch Density   66
4.13.5 Stitch Length   67
4.14 Warp Knitting   67
4.14.1 Classification of Warp Knitting Machine   68
4.15 Applications of Knitted Fabrics   69
4.16 Nonwoven   69
4.16.1 Definitions   71
4.16.2 Nonwoven Products   71
4.16.3 Raw Materials for Nonwovens   72
4.17 Manufacturing of Nonwoven   73
4.17.1 Web Formation   74
4.17.2 Dry Laid Web   74
4.17.3 Wet Laid Web   76
4.17.4 Polymer Laid Web   76
4.18 Web Bonding   77
4.18.1 Thermal Bonding   78
4.18.2 Chemical Bonding   78
4.18.3 Mechanical Bonding   78
4.19 Finishing   80
4.20 Characterization of Nonwoven   80
5 Textile Processing   83
5.1 Introduction   83
5.2 Textile Pre-treatments   83
5.3 Singeing   84
5.4 Desizing   84
5.5 Scouring   85
5.6 Bleaching   86
5.7 Mercerizing   86
5.8 Heat-setting   86
5.9 Textile Dyeing   87
5.10 Dyes and Pigments   87
5.10.1 Acid Dyes   88