Textile Design: Principles, Advances, and Applications (Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles)

411 Pages·2011·8.13 MB·English

by  A. Briggs-Goode

Textile design
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing
The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear.
Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has
individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is
to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate
information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries.
Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members
and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into part-
nership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and
the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science
and technology.
Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The
Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial
Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and
suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under
this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo.
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered
to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with
those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the
Woodhead website at: www.woodheadpublishing.com. Textile Institute books still
in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at: www.textileinsti
tutebooks.com.
A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have
been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards the
end of the contents pages.
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 112
Textile design
Principles, advances and applications
Edited by
A. Briggs-Goode and K. Townsend
Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute
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First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing Limited
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978-1-84569-646-7 (print)
ISBN 978-0-85709-256-4 (online)
ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print)
ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online)
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© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
Contents
Contributor contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv
Foreword xxi
Introduction xxiii
Part I Principles: fabric construction approaches to textile design 1
1 Fibres, yarns and fabrics: fundamental principles for
the textile designer 3
J. Wilson, The University of Manchester, UK
1.1 Introduction 3
1.2 Basic principles of fi bres, yarns and fabrics 4
1.3 Main types of fi bres, yarns and fabrics, and their
production methods 5
1.4 Main properties and characteristics of fi bres, yarns and fabrics 16
1.5 Future trends 28
1.6 Conclusion 29
1.7 Sources of further information and advice 29
1.8 Bibliography 30
2 Woven textile design 31
N. A. Redmore, University of Huddersfi eld, UK
2.1 Introduction 31
2.2 Weave processes 32
2.3 Overview of end uses 34
2.4 Key issues affecting the designer 34
2.5 Synopsis of different weave processes 38
2.6 Computer technologies 46
2.7 Practical design applications 49
2.8 Future trends 52
2.9 Conclusion 54
2.10 Bibliography 54
3 Knitted textile design 55
N. Francis and B. Sparkes, Nottingham Trent University, UK
3.1 Introduction 55
3.2 Context for knitted fabric design 55
v
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
vi Contents
3.3 The principles of weft knitted textiles 62
3.4 Practical design applications of knitted textiles 76
3.5 Future trends 80
3.6 Sources of further information and advice 84
3.7 Acknowledgements 84
3.8 References and bibliography 85
Part II Principles: surface approaches to textile design 87
4 Surface design of textiles 89
J. Miles, Bath Spa University, UK and V. Beattie,
Loughborough University, UK
4.1 Introduction 89
4.2 What is surface design? 90
4.3 Applications of surface design 91
4.4 Future trends 101
4.5 Sources of further information and advice 103
5 Printed textile design 105
A. Briggs-Goode, Nottingham Trent University, UK and
A. Russell, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
5.1 Introduction 105
5.2 Basic history and principles of applying colour to cloth:
methods and types of textile printing 105
5.3 The relationship between textile printing and design 112
5.4 Contemporary principles and applications of printed
textile design 117
5.5 Future trends 124
5.6 Sources of further information and advice 126
5.7 References and further reading 127
6 Embroidered textile design 129
M. Miller, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
6.1 Introduction 129
6.2 Commercial production methods for embroidered textiles 131
6.3 Digitising embroidery designs 136
6.4 Pattern control in embroidered textile designs 137
6.5 Applications of commercial embroidery production 137
6.6 Location of embroidery production 140
6.7 The embroidered textile design process 141
6.8 Future trends 142
6.9 Sources of further information and advice 143
6.10 References and further reading 144
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011
Contents vii
7 Designing through dyeing and fi nishing 146
J. N. Chakraborty, National Institute of Technology, India
7.1 Introduction 146
7.2 Designing through dyeing 148
7.3 Designing through dyeing techniques 150
7.4 Designing through garment dyeing 161
7.5 Designing through fi nishing 161
7.6 Future trends 167
7.7 Sources of further information and advice 169
7.8 References 169
8 The use of colour in textile design 171
K. Dickinson, Nottingham Trent University, UK
8.1 Introduction 171
8.2 The perception of colour 172
8.3 Palette development 175
8.4 Design 176
8.5 Culture 177
8.6 Trend and product 178
8.7 Communicating colour 180
8.8 Environmental and commercial issues 183
8.9 Future trends 185
8.10 Sources of further information and advice 187
8.11 References and further reading 187
Part III Applications and advances 191
9 Colour trend forecasting and its infl uence on the fashion
and textile industry 193
J. A. King, De Montfort University, UK
9.1 Introduction 193
9.2 Principles of colour forecasting in the fashion and textile industry 195
9.3 Applications of colour and trend forecasting in the fashion and
textile industry 200
9.4 Future trends 203
9.5 Sources of further information and advice 204
9.6 References 205
10 Sustainable textile design 207
A. Sherburne, Kingston University, UK
10.1 Introduction: key issues affecting textile and fashion design 207
10.2 Strategies for fashion and textile design 215
10.3 Strategies for textile and fashion designers: recycling and reuse –
beginning to close the loop 222
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viii Contents
10.4 The designer empowered 227
10.5 Sources of further information and advice 230
10.6 References 231
11 Fashion design: the dynamics of textiles in advancing
cultural memes 232
S. C. Jenkyn-Jones, University of the Arts, UK
11.1 Introduction 232
11.2 Key issues: the relationships between fashion houses and textile
merchants 234
11.3 Suitability of different textiles for fashion design 243
11.4 The ‘apparel-body construct’ (ABC) theory of fashion design 248
11.5 Applications of CAD/CAM (computer-aided
design/computer-aided manufacturing) in fashion design 252
11.6 Future trends 257
11.7 Sources of further information and advice 259
11.8 References and further reading 261
12 Interior textile design 263
S. Jebbitt, Design Consultant, UK
12.1 Introduction 263
12.2 Overview 264
12.3 The key issues and considerations of the design of interior textiles 274
12.4 New trends and fashions 279
12.5 Case studies 281
12.6 Sources of further information and advice 287
13 The interaction of two and three dimensional design in
textiles and fashion 288
K. Townsend and R. Goulding, Nottingham Trent University, UK
13.1 Introduction 288
13.2 Triangulation: the body, textile and garment form 288
13.3 Silhouette 291
13.4 Spatial garment forms: sculptural, architectural and hybrid 295
13.5 Different approaches to textile/garment integration 303
13.6 The garment as canvas 310
13.7 Sustainable design approaches 315
13.8 Future trends 319
13.9 References 321
14 The design of technical textiles 323
S. Kettley, Nottingham Trent University, UK
14.1 Introduction 323
14.2 Sectors using technical textiles 324
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Contents ix
14.3 Recent innovations and directions in technical textiles 327
14.4 Innovation and commercialization issues in technical textiles 339
14.5 Technical textiles in education 340
14.6 Future trends 342
14.7 Sources of further information and advice 345
14.8 References and further reading 349
15 Designing future textiles: new developments in textile
structures and surface treatments 354
M. O’Mahony, University of Technology Sydney, Australia
15.1 Introduction 354
15.2 Design of future fi bers and yarns 354
15.3 Design of future fabric structures 358
15.4 Design of future fabric surfaces 360
15.5 Conclusion 365
15.6 Sources of further information and advice 366
15.7 Further reading 366
Index 367
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2011