Textile Chemistry

477 Pages·2019·5.421 MB·English

by  Bechtold, Thomas, Pham, Tung

ThomasBechtold,TungPham
TextileChemistry
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Unauthenticated
Download Date | 3/20/19 8:37 PM
Thomas Bechtold, Tung Pham
Textile Chemistry
Authors
Prof.Dr.ThomasBechtold
ResearchInstituteforTextileChemistryandTextilePhysics
UniversityofInnsbruck
Hoechsterstrasse73
6950Dornbirn
Austria
[email protected]
Prof.Dr.TungPham
ResearchInstituteforTextileChemistryandTextilePhysics
UniversityofInnsbruck
Hoechsterstrasse73
6950Dornbirn
Austria
[email protected]
ISBN978-3-11-054984-3
e-ISBN(PDF)978-3-11-054989-8
e-ISBN(EPUB)978-3-11-054990-4
LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2018965042
BibliographicinformationpublishedbytheDeutscheNationalbibliothek
TheDeutscheNationalbibliothekliststhispublicationintheDeutscheNationalbibliografie;
detailedbibliographicdataareavailableontheInternetathttp://dnb.dnb.de.
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Contents
1 Textiles 1
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Spinning 1
1.3 Lineardensity–yarncount 3
1.4 Fabricformation 4
1.5 Textilechemicalaspectsinspinningandfabricformation 5
1.5.1 Spinfinish 6
1.5.2 Sizing 8
1.5.3 Embroidery 10
1.5.4 Printing/coating 10
1.5.5 Garmentproduction/assembly/joining 11
1.5.6 Technicaltextiles 11
References 12
2 Textilefibres 17
2.1 Fibreproduction 17
2.2 Fibreformation 20
2.2.1 Polymer-dependentfibreproperties 20
2.3 Molecularmass/degreeofpolymerisation 24
2.4 Importantfibresandtheirchemistry 26
2.4.1 Cellulosefibres 26
2.4.2 Structureofcotton/flax/hempfibres 27
2.5 Relevantaspectsofcellulosechemistry(chemicalreactions,
derivatisationandchemicalstability) 32
2.6 Chemicalreactions 35
2.6.1 Derivatisation 35
2.6.2 Hydrolysis 35
2.6.3 Oxidation 37
2.6.4 Esterification 38
2.6.5 Etherification 39
2.6.6 Complexformation 40
2.6.7 Thesecondarystructureofcellulose 40
2.6.8 Methodsofstructuralcharacterisation 42
2.7 Regeneratedcellulosefibres 42
2.7.1 Dissolutionofcellulose 42
2.7.2 Theviscoseprocess 43
2.7.3 Lyocellfibres–theNMMOprocess 47
2.7.4 Ionicliquidsandothercellulosesolvents 50
2.7.5 Cuprofibres–thecuprammoniumprocess 50
2.7.6 Cellulosediacetateandtriacetate 51
VI Contents
2.8 Proteinfibres 52
2.8.1 Generalaspectsofproteinfibres 52
2.8.2 Proteinstructure–basicproperties 53
2.8.3 Wool 56
2.8.4 Silk 58
2.8.5 Caseinfibres 59
2.9 Syntheticfibres 60
2.9.1 General 60
2.9.2 Polyamide 61
2.9.3 Aminocarboxylicacid-basedPAs 62
2.9.4 Diamine–dicarboxylicacid-basedPAs 64
2.9.5 PESfibres 66
2.9.6 Polylacticacidandpolyhydroxybutyrate 71
2.9.7 Polyurethanes/elastomerfibres 72
2.9.8 Polyolefinfibres,PEandPP 76
2.9.9 Polyacrylonitrilefibres 80
2.9.10 High-performancefibres 82
References 85
3 Structureoftextilefibres 93
3.1 Generalaspects 93
3.2 Crystallinityversusamorphousregions 93
3.3 Constitutionofapolymer 94
3.4 High-performancefibres 96
3.5 Molecularweightdistribution 98
3.6 Consequencesofpolydispersity 98
3.7 Configuration 100
3.8 Conformation 102
3.8.1 Conformationalstatistics 103
3.9 Polymerassemblies 104
3.10 Thethermodynamicnon-equilibriumstateofpolymers 105
3.11 Modelsoffibrestructure 107
3.12 Consequencesofpolymerorderinafibre 110
3.12.1 Moisture/adsorption/swelling 110
References 112
4 Basicinteractionsbetweenfibrepolymersandsorptives 115
4.1 General 115
4.2 Dipoles 115
4.3 Polarisability 117
4.4 Molecularinteractions 119
4.4.1 Ion–ioninteractions 119
Contents VII
4.4.2 VanderWaalsforces 121
4.4.3 Hydrogenbonds 122
4.4.4 Hydrophobicinteractions 123
4.4.5 π-electroninteractions 124
4.5 Thepolymer–solventboundarylayer 125
4.6 Zetapotential 128
4.7 Donnanequilibrium 133
References 135
5 Thermodynamicsandkineticsinfibrechemistry 139
5.1 Moisturesorption 139
5.2 Moisturesorptionisotherms 140
5.2.1 Wateractivity 141
5.3 Sorptionkineticsforadsorptionfromthegasphase 146
5.4 Sorptionfromtheliquidphase 150
5.4.1 Generalconsiderations 150
5.4.2 TheNernstisotherm 151
5.4.3 TheFreundlichisotherm 152
5.4.4 Langmuiradsorptionisotherm 154
5.4.5 Specialaspectsofsorptionisotherms 156
References 163
6 Kineticsoftextilechemicalprocesses 167
6.1 Elementarystepsinpolyesterdyeing 167
6.2 StepA–dissolutionofdisperseddye 167
6.3 Infiniteandfinitedyeingkinetics 169
6.4 StepB–hydraulictransportinthedyebath 170
6.5 StepC–diffusionthroughtheboundarylayerofthefibre 171
6.6 StepD–dyestuffsorptioninthefibre 172
6.7 Levelling 173
6.8 Follow-upreactions–kineticsinreactivedyeing 174
6.9 Precedingandfollowingreactions–vatdyeing 176
6.10 Aggregation 177
References 177
7 Basicsofcolourdevelopment 181
7.1 Thephenomenonofcolour–howtoapproach? 181
7.2 Physicalaspectsofcolourdevelopment 181
7.3 Additiveandsubtractivecolour 185
7.4 Developmentofcolour 186
7.5 Colourvariationsindependentofmolecularstructure 192
VIII Contents
7.6 Fluorescenceandphosphorescence 193
7.7 Textilechemicalrelevance 196
References 198
8 Generalprinciplesofdyes 203
8.1 Themolecularstructureofdyes 203
8.2 Theazochromophore 203
8.2.1 Mono-,di-andpolyazodyes 203
8.2.2 Thediazotisation 204
8.2.3 Thecouplingcomponent 206
8.3 Anthraquinonechromophores 209
8.4 Indigoidchromophores 212
8.5 Cationicdyes 212
8.6 Polymethinedyes 213
8.7 Phthalocyaninedyes–Aza[18]annulenes 214
8.8 Sulphur-basedchromophores 215
8.9 Metalcomplexes 216
8.10 Formazandyes 217
8.11 Fluorescentbrighteners/fluorescentwhiteningagents 218
8.12 Photodegradationofdyes 218
8.13 Photodegradationofdyeclasses 220
References 224
9 Colourmeasurement 227
9.1 Theperceptionofcolour 227
9.2 Thestandardobserver 230
9.3 ColourspecificationthroughtheCIELABsystem 232
9.4 Metamerism 232
9.5 Tristimulusvalues 234
9.6 Colourcoordinates 236
9.7 Measurementofreflectancecurves 240
9.8 Determinationofwhiteness,yellowness 242
9.9 Colourstrength–theKubelka–Munkfunction 244
9.10 Predictionofdyeingrecipes 246
9.11 Gloss/lustre 247
References 249
10 Dyechemistry 253
10.1 Overview 253
10.2 Dispersedyes 253
10.2.1 Dyeingprocesseswithdispersedyes 253
10.2.2 Reductivecleaning 257
Contents IX
10.3 Directdyes 258
10.4 Reactivedyes 260
10.4.1 Chemistryofreactivedyes 260
10.4.2 Importantdyeingtechniques 268
10.5 Vatdyes 272
10.5.1 Oxidation/soaping 279
10.6 Indigo 283
10.6.1 Synthesisofindigo 283
10.6.2 Applicationofindigo 284
10.6.3 Chemistryofindigoreduction 287
10.6.4 Garmentwash–fading 291
10.7 Sulphurdyes 292
10.8 Aciddyesandmetalcomplexdyes 296
10.9 Naphtholdyes 299
10.10 Cationicdyes/basicdyes 300
10.11 Naturalcolourants 302
10.11.1 Generalaspects 302
10.11.2 Majorclassesofnaturalcolourants 304
10.11.3 Tannin-baseddyes 309
10.12 Pigmentdyes 312
10.13 Textileprinting 313
10.13.1 Generalaspectsofprinting 313
10.13.2 Screenprinting 317
10.13.3 Ink-jetprinting 319
10.13.4 Specialprintingtechniques 321
References 321
11 Pre-treatment 329
11.1 Sizing 329
11.2 Desizing 332
11.3 Alkalineextraction 333
11.4 Prewashingoftextilesfromsyntheticfibres 334
11.5 Settingofsyntheticfibres 334
11.6 Alkalisation(causticising,mercerisation) 335
11.7 Alkalisationofpolyesterfibres 337
11.8 Bleaching 338
11.8.1 Generalaspects 338
11.8.2 Peroxidecompounds 338
11.8.3 Halogen-basedoxidants 341
11.9 Singing 343
11.10 Carbonisation 343
11.11 Reductivebleach 344