Textile and Clothing Design Technology

525 Pages·2018·63.18 MB·English

by  Tom Cassidy

Textile and Clothing Design
Technology

Textile and Clothing Design
Technology

Edited by
Tom Cassidy
Parikshit Goswami
CRC Press
Taylor & Francis Group
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Library of Congress Cataloging‑in‑Publication Data
Names: Cassidy, Tom, Professor of design, editor. | Goswami, Parikshit,
editor.
Title: Textile and clothing design technology / [edited by] Tom Cassidy,
Parikshit Goswami.
Description: Boca Raton : Taylor & Francis, a CRC title, part of the Taylor &
Francis imprint, a member of the Taylor & Francis Group, the academic
division of T&F Informa, plc, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references
and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017026567 | ISBN 9781498796392 (hardback :acid-free paper)
| ISBN 9781315156163 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Textile design. | Clothing and dress.
Classification: LCC TS1475 .T45 2018 | DDC 667/.022--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017026567
Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at
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and the CRC Press Web site at
http://www.crcpress.com
Contents
Editors ............................................................................................................................................vii
Contributors ....................................................................................................................................ix
1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................1
Tom Cassidy and Parikshit Goswami
2. Fibers and Filaments ..............................................................................................................5
Tom O’Haire and Parikshit Goswami
3. Staple Yarns ...........................................................................................................................27
Tom Cassidy and Dian Li
4. Continuous Filament and Texturized Synthetic Yarns ................................................57
Arobindo Chatterjee
5. Fancy Yarns ............................................................................................................................87
Hugh Gong
6. Fiber and Filament Dyeing ...............................................................................................109
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
7. Woven Fabrics ......................................................................................................................143
Lindsey Waterton Taylor
8. Weft-Knitted Fabrics ..........................................................................................................195
Sandip Mukherjee
9. Warp-Knitted Fabrics ........................................................................................................227
Sadhan Chandra Ray and Mirela Blaga
10. Nonwoven Fabrics ..............................................................................................................259
Muhammad Tausif and Parikshit Goswami
11. Fabric Dyeing and Printing ..............................................................................................281
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
12. Color Knowledge ................................................................................................................333
Tracy Cassidy
13. Textile Finishing .................................................................................................................357
Andrew J Hebden and Parikshit Goswami
v
vi Contents
14. Clothing Technology .........................................................................................................375
Aileen Jefferson
15. Stitches and Seams .............................................................................................................401
John McLoughlin
16. Knitwear Design Technology ..........................................................................................441
Tracy Cassidy
17. The Measurement of Textile Material Properties ........................................................463
Riikka Räisänen
18. Textile and Clothing Consultancy ..................................................................................479
Tom Cassidy and Dian Li
Index .............................................................................................................................................499
Editors
Professor Tom Cassidy holds the chair of design in the University of Leeds, Leeds, United
Kingdom. He holds four degrees (ATI, MSc, MBA, and PhD) and is a fellow of the Design
Research Society (FRDS). He has been in education for 38 years following 9 years in the
industry. He has carried out many consultancies, both nationally and internationally since
the late 1970s, for agencies such as the UN, ODA, and Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
King’s Park, Hong Kong. Professor Cassidy is a regular reviewer for the Textile Research
Journal, Measurement Science and Technology, the Journal of the Textile Institute, and many
other academic journals. He is on the editorial board of the Journal of Fiber Bioengineering
and Informatics, Textile Progress, and the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. He has super-
vised 25 PhD students and 3 MPhil students to completion and is currently supervising
10 students. Professor Cassidy’s research interests are wide and span most areas of design
technology and management with particular strengths in textile and clothing design tech-
nology and education. He has held grants from the EPSRC and the AHRC for projects in
design technology and design management.
Professor Parikshit Goswami (BSc (Tech), MSc, PhD, MRSC, ASDC, C Col, ATI, CText)
obtained a bachelor’s degree in textile technology and then worked within different
industries, including a world leading third-party textile testing and quality certification
company. Subsequently, he did his MSc in Advanced Textile and Performance Clothing
and earned his PhD from the University of Leeds. Professor Goswami is presently the
Head of Department of Fashion and Textiles at University of Huddersfield. Prior to join-
ing University of Huddersfield, Professor Goswami was the Director of Research and
Innovation at the School of Design, University of Leeds and he lead the Fibre and Fabric
Functionalisation Research Group.
Professor Goswami’s domains of research are product development using flexible materi-
als and application of chemistry for functionalising textiles. Professor Goswami manages
a large profile of research concerned with fibre/polymer science, nonwovens, medical tex-
tiles (implantable materials and non-implantable materials), sustainable materials (fun-
damentally understand the properties of new material), application and development of
nano/submicron fibres for novel applications, and plasma treatment for functionalising
textiles and textile chemistry.He is a member of Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC),
Education, Qualifications and Accreditation Board (EQAB), and was a member of EDANA’s
Board Working Group on Sustainability.
vii

Contributors
Mirela Blaga Aileen Jefferson
Gheorghe Asachi Technical University Manchester Metropolitan University
of Iaşi Manchester, United Kingdom
Iaşi, Romania
Dian Li
Tom Cassidy School of Design
School of Design University of Leeds
University of Leeds Leeds, United Kingdom
Leeds, United Kingdom
John McLoughlin
Tracy Cassidy
Manchester Metropolitan University
University of Huddersfield Manchester, United Kingdom
Huddersfield, United Kingdom
Sandip Mukherjee
Arobindo Chatterjee
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Department of Textile Technology
Kolkata, India
Dr. B. R. Ambedkar National Institute of
Technology Jalandhar
Riikka Räisänen
Jalandhar, India
Craft Studies
University of Helsinki
Hugh Gong
Helsinki, Finland
School of Materials
University of Manchester
Sadhan Chandra Ray
Manchester, United Kingdom
University of Calcutta
Kolkata, India
Parikshit Goswami
Head of Department
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury
Department of Fashion and Textiles
University of Huddersfield KPS Institute of Polytechnic
Huddersfield, United Kingdom Government College of Engineering &
Textile Technology Serampore
Tom O’Haire Serampore, India
Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation
Research Group Muhammad Tausif
School of Design Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation
University of Leeds Research Group
Leeds, United Kingdom School of Design
University of Leeds
Andrew J Hebden Leeds, United Kingdom
Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation
Group Lindsey Waterton Taylor
School of Design School of Design
University of Leeds University of Leeds
Leeds, United Kingdom Leeds, United Kingdom
ix