Table Of ContentSuperflTuhoiunsg s
MateriCaull tuarned S ociaSlt atus
inE arlMyo dernC hina
CraiCgl unas
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PoliPtrye ss
Copyrig©h tC raiCgl una1s9 91
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ina ssociawtiitohBn a siBll ackwell
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transmititnea dn,yf ormo rb y anym eans,
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publisher.
Excepitn t heU niteSdt atoefsA merictah,i bso ok
iss olsdu bjetcott hec ondititohnai tt s hall
notb,y w ayo ft radoer o therwibseel ,e nt,
resolhdi,r eodu to,r o therwicsier culawtietdh out
thep ublishperri'oscr o nseinnta nyf ormo f
bindionrgc over otthhaernt haitn w hiciht i s
publishaenddw ithoua ts imilcaorn dition
includtihnigcs o nditiboeni nigm poseodn the
subsequpeunrtc haser.
ISBN0 745068 725
BritLiisbhr aCrayt alogiunPi unbgl icaDtaitoan
A CIPc atalogrueec orfdo rt hibso oki sa vailafbrloem
theB ritiLsihb rary.
Typeseitn1 0V 2o n1 2p tT imes
byC olsePtr ivaLtted
PrintiendG reaBtr itabiynT .J.P resLst d.
Conetnts
Lisotfi llustrations
VI
Acknolwe dgemse nt
IX
Introduction
Bookasb outth ings
Telh tioutMjreic erono auignsrs nhpsi ep 8
Ideaabso utth ings \�\� :17.'11.
2
TehmiMenics nnos ougnsiir lepsti 9.hutVs�f tre;,er�o4 a0
3 Wordasb outth ings
Telh aonMjgic nunosnaugssopgr hei ei 75
Thinogfst hpea st
4 'i{
Uostfeaht sneii M qnim tnaeugrl itau9lr1..ce
5Th inignsm otio1;n � ��
-i
I'
AnMxieilatbioen&uus�ffit bnJ�ggexs<i iac ucmstrodm isefot ,s/iv ,t) 161
�
6
'r;L
CnosuacmnlipdMant iCs inhsogi n n a1 41
Conclusion
{t,;t 166
'\.,{ ' _�_L
\"�\(.
ppendIiE xd itoorfs
� TersaoeStn fuli pueorus
i
-Tihn"g s� � 147
AppendIiIx Selectfeodwr o prrkoisfca ersat n d
antiqauret efacts
Notes )l.- �I.>Jc 1 5,. 162600- 177
,_ " HQ ;"' ,_, 128
�J��ib�li ogroafpp rhiatym ;�urces
7 ' i�"l:'" 179
Bibliogorfas pehcyo ndlairtye rature
199
Index
210
Illtursations
1)E xercaipsperso prtiota htfeeo urmtohn tohn,eo ft hiel lustrations
tot h'eD iscoounbr esiein ngh armowniyt thh feo usre asoonnse' ,
ofG aoL ian's 1591.
EiDcgisohsoeuttnAsrht o rLe vfi ing,
2)T abloef wooda,b ou1t60 0,w itohp enwoprakn eclasr viend
hauh
thseh apoefd ragobnest wetehlnee gBsy.C ourtoefst hyTe r ustees
oft hVe ictoarnidAa l beMruts eumF,E .-I1S9.8 0
3)A na rchaic vbersosonefztl eh t er ipfoodr kmn owans from
dnig,
a1 60r1e print oefd ition of
ResoAencra horaglceyuho seIltslr ated
1092, I,p .1 7.
juan
4)A handbiislslub eytd h peu blishhoiunsogefZ iY ibicno,m plaining
aboutth pei raocfay ne ditoifoa nnu nidenttiefxcitae ldlt ehde
bya r ivaPlan,l inshAabno.u1 t59 0T.h eH ague,
GdoRelint ual,
Koninklijke B1i3b3Ml i6o3t.h eek,
5)H angisncgr oolnsl i lpka,i ntaebdo u1t5 5,p0 robaibnlS yu zhou.
Thes purious siistg hnaaottf Lu irZ eh aod(aoflf .i rhsatl off
eighctehn tuarnyd)t ,h earrees purisoeuasal nsd c olophons of
then ortheSronn gi mpercioalll ection (elevMean th century),
Zhi( fourtceeennttuhKr eyl )i,u( s1i3 ;-1625a)n dW enZ hengming
(147505-)91B.y c ourtoefts hyTe r ustoefte hsVe i ctoarnidAa l bert
MuseumE., 4 22-31,9 5S haBrepqlueess t.
6)I ncebnusren oefwr h iptoer ceilmaiitna Dtiinnwgga rmea,d aeb out
155-0160B0y.c ourtoefts hyTe r ustoefte hsVe i ctoarnidAa l bert
MuseumC,i rc3.0-1139.5
7)A ni llusttrota htdeir oanm a byL iY u,s hwoing
ILdMeoaavtlec hes
ana ntiqsuheo. pA fteFruX ihu(a1 98n0o)6., 3 3.
IullstratiVll ons
8)T heo penipnags saogfte h hea ndsc'rDowllelli inntg h Fe uhcun
Mountaipnasi'n,bt eetdw e1e3n4a 7n d1 35b0yH uangG ongwan,g
showitnhgec olophboynD ongQ ichaanngdt hes esao lfth e
Qingd ynasitmyp ercioalll ecCtoilolne.c otfi tohneN atilo na
PalaMcues eumT,a iwaRne,p ubolfiC ch ina.
" �.,
Acknoweldgements
Thep oe'mB ogAunst iqu(ittriaenss'bl yWa atied- kHaom)o np .1 1,1
andt he' RankionfgA ntiqOubej ec(ttsr'a nsblyaC theud- tsLiin)g
onp p1.4 0-150 arer eprodubcyek di npde rmisosfit ohneA sia
SociGeatlyl efrrioeCmsh u-tsLiia nngdJ ameWsa tetd s,
TeCh hsei ne
Thameasn d
SacSrht'oAtusltrLid iiifsitcnLeoh Ma :eiPt neegr iod,
Hudsopnu,b liisnha esds ociwaittithoh Anes iSao ciGeatlyl e(rNieews
York1,89 7)Ia. m g rateaflustlooW ai-kHaomf ohri asg reement to
reprodhuicwseo rk.
Introduction
Thiiss n ots impal byo oka boutth inIgtsi .sa bousto meo ft he
wayosf l ookianttg h inignst he Choiftn hael attpearro tf t he
Mindgy nas(t31y68 -6144I)t.d oehso,w evhearv,ie t osr igiinnt sh e
experioefwn ocre kiwnigt shu rvimvaitnegr oibajle catsas c ,u rator
int hFea rE asteDrenp artmoeftn htVe i ctoarnidAa l beMruts eum.
Itw asi nt hceo urosfwe o rokn t heosbej etchtasItf iresntc ountered
whaIti nitiinatlelryp arsae l tietde roaftc uornen oissepurrosdhuicpe d
int hlea tsei xteaenndet ahr sleyv entceeennttuhtr hiteees x,ot fws h ich
fortmh cee ntsroaulr mcaet eroifat lh ibso okT.h ev ercyl o'sfei t'
betweaernt efcaocmtisnd go wnt ou sf rotmh pee riaonddt hper e
cisdee scripotfti hoenimsn t hetseex twsh,i cahr eo fteenl egantly
phrasbeundte vweirl lfoublslcyuw raesv, e rayt tracStoai tvter.a ctive,
inf actth,ai tti nitiaacltlteyodo bscutrhebe r oadiemrp licaotfi ons
thcer eatoifao snp ecialized discionut rhsleea tMoeif n go.b jects
Thestee xtwsi,tn ha melsi ke
EgiDhcitsoso eutnAsrht 0 rLe v/i ing
or havteo oof tbeene rne atdos hed
TersaoeStn fuli puTieoh,nru gss
ligohntt hoosbej ewchtiscd hos urvipvrei,n cippaailnltybi unatgl ss o
ceramjiacdsce,a rvipnigesc,oe fms e talwoert,cka .,n dn ote nough
regaridnet dh eciorv eroafgm eo rep erishaasbpleeoc ft s material
cultuTrheeh.ya vbee en genuesrewadil tlhyti hnfe r amewoofrt kh e
positiwvhiischmha sc ontintuobe edi dentiafsoi neeod f t hceh ief
weakneisnsm euss eupmr esentoaftt ihopena ss t.
Howeve'rt,h ingsr'e cheanbvteelej ynu dgteobd e t oiom portant to
bel efttoc uratorhsa vaienn dc reasaitntgrlaytc hteae tdt enotfi on
scholars fwroorwmki itnhtgih nbe r oaddeirs cipolfi nheiss tory and
anthropoTlhoewg oyr.ok f M aryD ouglaansdB aroIns herwood,
partictuhleairrl y introdtuoac w eidd aeu dience·
TeWhr oalG/odo,d s
thceo nceopfat s ystoefmg oodassa s ymbollaincg uaagw ea,yo f
2
Itnroduction
sendianngdr eceImvemsgs aagbeosu sto ciaentdya bouatn i ndi
viduapll'aswc iet hiitnS. e ekitnoeg x pltahigenr owotfhc apitalism
anda m oderwno rld-vCiheawn,dM ruak erji's,
FrGorImam vaegne s
hasa lsmoa deb roacdl aifmostr h reo lweh icihst ob ea llotttoe d
materciuallt uSrheeh. a swr itt'eOnb:j eacrtcesa rrioefir dse .a.s.
[thehye]lt pom akea utonomfooursco eusot f i debaysr emainiinn g
thpeh ysiwcoarlll do nagf ttehre pirro duc.t.i.To hna itct a nb e
both
ap hysiacnadsl y mbocloincs trgaiivmneatst erciuallt aup raer ticular
poweorv ehru mana ctioFno.c usoinnp ga rtichuilsatro rciicral
,I
cumstanRciecsh,aG rodl dthwaciotnec'eospfa t n ' empiofrt eh ings'
inR enaissFalnocreer neclean teewps a tteorfcn osn sumpttoai w oany
ofg eneranteiwan ngd m orceo mplseoxc iiadle ntaintdip eoss iftosr
thpiesr isoodm oef t hnea scheanbti otfcs o nsumewrhiiscumhn derpin
them oderwno rld-vSiiemwo.Sn c hamhaa sb rougshotm eo ft he
samied etaosb eaorn t hNee therloaftn hd'esG oldAegne w'i,t ahn
interprewthaitcaihgo anim na ketsh ree latioonfcs ohnispu mteor s
theo bjecotfc so nsumpat imoonv infgo rcienb roapda tteorfn s
chaen2.g
MukerGjoil,d thwaanidSt ceh amiad'esaa bso utthr eo loefm aterial
cultausir nes truamswe enltal ss ymptoofms ocicahla ntgoeu csho me
oft hes ampeo inatsst heA mericlaint eraotfmu artee rciuallt ure
studiae bsu,r geoning dwihsocslieep aldiinlneig g hhtasv bee en
schollairkJseu lePsr owann dH enrGyl assainedw hichha sh ad
consideirnafbllueoe vneccreu rrent curatoirnti haUeln iptreadc tice
Stataensdi nB ritaTihnei. n trodutcoat r ieocnea nntt holooftg hye se
writienxgpsl idceirtiltvyhe gesr eadteegrr oefec oncenronwf elbty
historfioa'rnm sa telriiffaerl'o tmh weo rokf F ernaBnrda udAe l.
3
weaknewshsi cah numboefcr r ithiacvsie d entiifnti heisdsc hool,
howeviesri ,tt se ndetnocs ye teh mee aninwghsi cahr aes critboe d
iteomfsm aterciuallt ausrb ee iunnga mbigufoiuxsoelndyc aen df or
alaltt hmeo menotfp roductMioorner. e centthlieyd ,e oafsA rjun
AppaduarnadIi g oKro pythoafvfse e emteodo ffaes ro luttioto hne
histordiicvaolrldcyie sdc ouorfms aetse rciuallt (utrhepe r ovionfc e
thec uratoorar r chaeolaongdii ts'stc )o nt(etxhpter' o vionfct eh e
historAirajnu)An.p padurhaaisw ritt'eenv:et nh ougfhr oma
poinotfv iehwu maanc toenrcso dteh inwgist shi gnifi
tohreetical
cancfer,o am poionftv ieiwti s t hteh ings-in-motion
moedtohlog,ical
thaitl lumitnhaetisero ciaanld h umanc onte4x Att. thes ame
timteh ej ustcloyn trovweorrskio afPl i erBroeu rdifeoura, l ilt s
theoretical sophisticatriiogno huaarnus,dn dmeertlhiondeodl ogical
thei mportaonfpc aey icnlgo astet enttoit ohnep recfiosrem osf
cultuprraalc twiicteh ai gni vesni tuatTihoeny. arear bniottr ary
choices.
3
Introduction
Sof arm,o.s otf t hteh eorewtoirckda oln oen t he' consumption
questhiaorsne 's toentd h eem pirbiacsaoilfsh istoirnivceaslt igation
oft hEeu ropeaanndA merictarna ditTihoibnsos o.k t,h erefhoarse ,
twoa imOsn.e i st om akhei storoifCa hnisnc ao nsimdoerrse e riously
thcel aiomfts h dei scooufrm saet erciuallt uuproetn h eaitrt ention.
Evermye mbeorf t heM inge limtaed ec onsumpcthiooinc feosr,
exampalbeo uctl otohrea sb ouftu rnitaunrdie tm, u stt,h erefboer e,
am attoeflr e giticmoantceet roan t tetmopd ti scowvheacrto nditioned
thecsheo icTehses. e coanidmi st od ratwh aet tenotfit ohno wsheo
worokn t hWee stetrrna dittoti hoeenx istoefnt cheCe h inewsoer ld
ofg oodwsi,t iht sso metismtersi kpirnegf iguroafat nidpo anrsa l1els
witeha rmloyd erEnu ropTeh.in se etdosb ed onbee fotrhe'e b iorft h
ac onsumer sociesteayts'a n ebweec xopmleasn aftotirho 'enR iosfe
thWee st'.
Ie ncounttehrelei dt eroantt uhrcee o nsumpqtuieosnt iinot nh e
Westth routgeha chsitnugd eonnta snM A courisnte h hei stoofr y
design, joofifnebtrylte yhd Ve i ctoarnidAa l beMruts euamn dt he
RoyaClo lloefgA er tT.h ec ourdsier ecCthoarr,lS easu marSemzi th
andh is sthuadvebneet esan m onmgy b estte achOenreos f.t haei ms
oft his pwraosjt eosc ette h eex tetnowt h icthh ien sigohfdt ess ign
hist(owrhyi tcyhp ictaalklteyhs me i d-ninecteenetnuatsrhi y tp so int
ofd eparthuardve a)l ifdoitrth yve e rlya rbgoed oyfp re-momdaedren
goodwsh icthy picnaolwcl oym prtihsceeo llecotfmi uosnesu lmisk e
thVei ctoarnidAa l bearstw ,e lalsb eitnhgoe b jeocftd si scouorfs es
connoissecuernstahrrieopdu tnhdae r mta rkeTth.ec laimtsh 'eon fe w
arhti sttoorp yr'o viafd oer omf a ccetsots h ibso doyf m aterwiearle
alswoo rked through woivetarhn usmtbueodrfey netasrt sh,o ugh
herree suwletrsle e sssa tisflyairnggbe,el cya use, destpoi te claims
rejtehcweth olneo tioofan n e stablciasnhoetndh,m e a joroifrt eyc ent
worrke maicnesn tornet dh sea mtey poefsa rtipsrtaicct aisdc oee s
thweo rikts eetkoss upplIahn atv.et ,h erefsooruegi,hn tt h ibso ok
tof inwda yosf t alkaibnogut thd ee ployomfel nutx uorbyj eicnlt ast e
MinCgh inwah icwhe reeq uavlallyfi odcr a tegolriipkeaesi ntwiintgh,
ah ighsleyl f-conasecsitohoueftst h iecoi wrn a,n df ocrl othwihnegr,e
nos uccho herfernatm ewoofir dke eaxsi rsetasmd ayd ien t hCeh inese
sources.
Itw ast hVe& A/RCAc ourtsoeo,w, h icbhr ougihnttt oh Meu seum
historwioarnksio nnge armloyd erEnu rolpiek Pee tBeurr kLeo,r na
Weatherhill, MargKaeriTeththo mSapasun fdPf eotrEedar,r lwei,t h
themiors tr ecewnotr ko nt hec ompelilsisnugoe fsl uxucroyn
sumptiaonndt hes ocisatlr ateigniveosl vtihnemg a nipulaotfi on
luxury gaor(othd osw,e cvaetre gornioztee xdc)le udd.T5h eiwro rk
seemteodh olodu tt hpeo ssiboifbl eitttywe ary osf u nderstanding
