Table Of ContentStreet Food
Prepared foods, for sale in streets, squares, or markets, are ubiquitous around
the world and throughout history. This volume is one of the first to provide a
comprehensive social science perspective on street food, illustrating its immense
cultural diversity and economic significance, both in developing and developed
countries.
Key issues addressed include: policy, regulation, and governance of street
food and vendors; production and trade patterns ranging from informal
subsistence to modern forms of enterprise; the key role played by female
vendors; historical roots and cultural meanings of selling and eating food in the
street; food safety and nutrition issues. Many chapters provide case studies from
specific cities in different regions of the world. These include North America
(Atlanta, Philadelphia, Portland, Toronto, Vancouver), Central and South
America (Bogotá, Buenos Aires, La Paz, Lima, Mexico City, Montevideo,
Santiago, Salvador da Bahia), Asia (Bangkok, Dhaka, Penang), Africa (Accra,
Abidjan, Bamako, Freetown, Mozambique), and Europe (Amsterdam).
Ryzia de Cassia Vieira Cardoso is an Associate Professor at the School of
Nutrition, Federal University of Bahia, Brazil.
Michèle Companion is an Associate Professor of Sociology at the University
of Colorado, Colorado Springs, USA.
Stefano Roberto Marras is a sociologist and the president of Street Food
SQUARE, a non-profit organization based in Milan, Italy.
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Street Food
Culture, economy, health
and governance
Edited by
Ryzia de Cassia Vieira Cardoso,
Michèle Companion, and
Stefano Roberto Marras
Routledge
earthscan
Taylor & Francis Group
from Routledge
LONDON AND NEW YORK
First published 2014
by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN
and by Routledge
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017
Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business
© 2014 Ryzia de Cassia Vieira Cardoso, Michèle Companion, and
Stefano Roberto Marras, selection and editorial material; individual
chapters, the contributors
The right of the editors to be identified as the authors of the editorial
material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been
asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright,
Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or
reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or
other means, now known or hereafter invented, including
photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval
system, without permission in writing from the publishers.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or
registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and
explanation without intent to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Street food : culture, economy, health and governance / edited by
Ryzia de Cassia Vieira Cardoso, Michèle Companion, Stefano
Roberto Marras.
pages cm -- (Routledge studies in food, society and environment)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. International cooking. 2. Street food. 3. Street vendors--Social
aspects. 4. Street vendors--Government policy. 5. Food--Cross-
cultural studies. 6. Food--Social aspects. 7. Food service--Safety
measures. I. Cardoso, Ryzia de Cassia Vieira. II. Companion, Michèle.
III. Marras, Stefano Roberto.
TX725.A1.S6776 2014
641.59--dc23
2014002667
ISBN: 978-1-138-02368-0 (hbk)
ISBN: 978-1-315-77625-5 (ebk)
Typeset in Bembo
by Saxon Graphics Ltd, Derby
Contents
List of figures viii
List of tables x
Notes on editors and contributors xi
Acknowledgments xviii
Introduction 1
PART I
Governance: policies and politics 13
1 Comparative analysis of legislative approaches to
street food in South American metropolises 15
STEFANO R. MARRAS
2 Urban policy regimes and the political economy
of street food in Canada and the United States 46
KATHERINE BURNETT AND LENORE NEWMAN
3 Towards fair street food governance in Dhaka:
moving from exploitation and eviction to social
recognition and support 61
BENJAMIN ETZOLD
4 The taste of precarity: language, legitimacy, and
legality among Mexican street food vendors 83
TIANA BAKIĆ HAYDEN
5 Street food markets in Amsterdam: unravelling
the original sin of the market trader 98
FREEK JANSSENS
vi Contents
PART II
Subsistence and enterprise 117
6 Changing food landscapes: understanding the
food truck movement in Atlanta, Georgia, USA 119
ALEXANDRA PILL
7 Food trucks in the USA: sustainability, young
entrepreneurship, and urban revitalization 133
PAOLO CORVO
8 Street food vending in West African cities:
potential and challenges 146
GIORGIA F. NICOLÒ AND MOHAMED AG BENDECH
PART III
Women on the front line 161
9 Violence and sexual vulnerability among
Northern Mozambican female street food
vendors 163
MICHÈLE COMPANION
10 Corporeality and the cooking practices of the
Baiana de Acarajé 180
LILIAN MIRANDA MAGALHÃES AND
LÍGIA AMPARO DA SILVA SANTOS
PART IV
Cultural tastes 193
11 The tastiest food is in the small streets: the
politics of flavor and nostalgia in Bangkok 195
BRONWYN ISAACS
12 The structure of Penang street food culture
in Malaysia 214
M. SHAHRIM ABDUL KARIM AND
NURHASMILAALISA ABDUL HALIM
Contents vii
PART V
Food safety and nutrition 223
13 A description of hygienic–sanitary conditions of
street food trade at Parque Nacional, Bogotá D.C. 225
LUISA FERNANDA TOBAR VARGAS AND
GINA TATIANA BARBOSA MUÑOZ
14 Street food consumers in Salvador, Bahia: habits,
knowledge, and risk perception 241
RYZIA DE CASSIA VIEIRA CARDOSO, GIZANE RIBEIRO DE
SANTANA, AND TALITA FERREIRA DANTAS GUIMARÃES
15 Street food and intervention: strategies and
proposals for the developing world 255
RYZIA DE CASSIA VIEIRA CARDOSO, SANDRA MARIA
CHAVES DOS SANTOS AND EDLEUZA OLIVEIRA SILVA
16 The way forward for better food safety and
nutrition: an online discussion 269
MAX BLANCK, RENATA MIRULLA AND MAURICIO ROSALES
Index 275
Figures
3.1 Mobile tea, paan shupari and cigarette vendors, Dhaka,
Bangladesh 64
3.2 Semi-mobile peanuts and chanachur vendors, Dhaka,
Bangladesh 64
3.3 Semi-permanent push-cart selling tea and snacks, Dhaka,
Bangladesh 64
3.4 Permanent unconsolidated tea and snacks shop, Dhaka,
Bangladesh 64
3.5 Permanent consolidated tea and snacks shop, Dhaka,
Bangladesh 64
5.1 Location of the neighborhood of the Dapper Market in
Amsterdam, with the market stalls visible in the street 101
5.2 The movement of food markets throughout the City of
Amsterdam 104
5.3 “Free markets” in Amsterdam 108
11.1 This “trading mother” works from 3 am to 3 pm with her
husband and two small children (Bangkok, Thailand) 197
11.2 Many street vendor stalls are family operations. This couple
sells BBQ chicken and spicy papaya salad. Their BBQs line
the side of the road along with parked pick-up trucks
(Bangkok, Thailand) 203
11.3 Kao nam (dried coconut sweets) sold next to BBQ banana
(Bangkok, Thailand) 206
11.4 This vendor’s stall provides a table and chairs for customers,
operating like a small restaurant. Some Thais would call this
kind of stall “raan kha” (trading booth), or “paeng loi”
(drifting stall) (Bangkok, Thailand) 208
13.1 Layout of street food stalls at Parque Nacional, Bogotá,
Colombia, 2012 228
13.2 Stall at Parque Nacional, Bogotá, Colombia (1) 231
13.3 Stall at Parque Nacional, Bogotá, Colombia (2) 231
13.4 Stall at Parque Nacional, Bogotá, Colombia (3) 232
13.5 Stall at Parque Nacional, Bogotá, Colombia (4) 232
Figures ix
13.6 Hygiene conditions around stalls at Parque Nacional,
Bogotá, Colombia 236
14.1 Street food consumption frequency as reported by a sample
of consumers in the city center of Salvador, Bahia, Brazil 245
14.2 Distribution of a sample of consumers in Salvador, Bahia,
Brazil, in relation to the question: “Do you rely on the
quality of street food?” 247
14.3 Criterion adopted by consumers to choose where to
purchase street foods, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil 248
14.4 Feelings expressed by consumers in Salvador, Bahia as they
eat street food 250
14.5 Aspects that consumers consider to be important to improve
the street food quality in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil 251
