South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 10

643 Pages·2015·37 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
D
F
South Africa
Lesotho & Swaziland
PDF ebook
Edition 10th Edition
Release Date Nov 2015
Pages 640
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
1
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
3
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
4
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
South Africa,
Lesotho
& Swaziland
Kruger
Limpopo National
p403 Park
p384
Mpumalanga
Johannesburg p364
North West & Gauteng
Prpo4v2in6ce p315 Swpa4z8il7and
Free State
p297
KwaZulu-Natal
p226
Lesotho
Northern Cape p463
p438
Eastern Cape
p166
Western Cape
p97
Cape Town
p44
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
James Bainbridge,
Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne, Alan Murphy,
Matt Phillips, Simon Richmond
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to South Africa, CAPE TOWN . . . . . . . 44 Plettenberg Bay . . . . . . . . 148
Lesotho & Swaziland . . . . .6 Robberg Nature
& Marine Reserve . . . . . . . 150
South Africa, Lesotho WESTERN CAPE . . . . 97
& Swaziland Map . . . . . . . .8 Route 62 . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Winelands . . . . . . . . . . .100 Montagu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
South Africa, Lesotho
& Swaziland’s Top 25 . . . . 10 Stellenbosch . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Calitzdorp . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Franschhoek . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Oudtshoorn . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22
Paarl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Central Karoo . . . . . . . . 155
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Tulbagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Prince Albert . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Month by Month . . . . . . . . 27 Ceres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Gamkaskloof Nature
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Robertson . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Reserve (Die Hel) . . . . . . . 157
McGregor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Beaufort West . . . . . . . . . . 157
Travel with Children . . . . 35
Greyton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Karoo National Park . . . . 158
Regions at a Glance . . . . 38 The Overberg . . . . . . . . 122 West Coast
& Swartland . . . . . . . . . .158
Kogelberg
Biosphere Reserve . . . . . . 122 Darling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Betty’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 West Coast
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 159
Kleinmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Langebaan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
PETE OXFORD/GETTY IMAGES © HGCA(DWraeaenp anrHimeessonb taAooahngnpauuu ii ss . lhk . . a . .ras . .n . . . s . . .) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111132330411 PLCWCaaeiitmltdrdeueebrsrnrebdnoreaetsr’lsts g&es Br A . Aa .rrye .oa . . u . . . n . . .d . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111166663221
Clanwilliam & Around . . . 164
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 132
Swellendam . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
EASTERN CAPE . . . 166
Bontebok
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 135 Garden Route East . . . . 167
GREATER KUDU, KRUGER Garden Route . . . . . . . .135 Nature’s Valley . . . . . . . . . 167
NATIONAL PARK P384
Mossel Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Tsitsikamma
George . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 170
Montagu Storms River . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
LITTLEWORMY/SHUTTERSTOCK © &HVWGNiae aciOlrrtdtdoiuooeletrdnreinna’ans e lR iB qsBPoasuaau .y ayr . .t k e . . . P . . . a . . .s . . .s . . .e . . .s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111144441111 SC&JPAeodau Afrpdnftrreos oeE huySEliin’ltznse da FepB . br haa .Ceany .tonh . . cat . . .i s s . . . t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111177774495
(Wilderness Section) . . . . 142 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 186
Buffalo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Grahamstown . . . . . . . . . . 189
Knysna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Bathurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Knysna to Port Alfred . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
CAPE TOWN P44 Plettenberg Bay . . . . . . . . 148 Amathole . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Contents
East London . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Ballito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Harrismith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Hogsback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 KwaDukuza (Stanger) Sterkfontein Dam
The Wild Coast . . . . . . . 203 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 309
Chintsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Zululand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Golden Gate Highlands
Morgan Bay Mtunzini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 309
& Kei Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Eshowe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Phuthaditjhaba . . . . . . . . . 310
Dwesa Ulundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Clarens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 207 Ithala Game Reserve . . . . 261 Bethlehem . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Coffee Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Fouriesburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
The Elephant Coast . . .261
Around Coffee Bay . . . . . . 209 Hluhluwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Ficksburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
Qunu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Ladybrand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
Mthatha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Gariep Dam
Mthatha to iSimangaliso Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 314
Port St Johns . . . . . . . . . . 212 Wetland Park . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Philippolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Port St Johns . . . . . . . . . . 213 Tembe Elephant Park . . . 273
Pondoland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Ndumo JOHANNESBURG
Northeastern Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 273 & GAUTENG . . . . . . . 315
Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
The Midlands . . . . . . . . . 273
Johannesburg . . . . . . . . 318
Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Pietermaritzburg . . . . . . . 274
Lady Grey . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Around
Drakensberg & Johannesburg . . . . . . . . 345
Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Ukhahlamba-
Soweto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345
Eastern Karoo . . . . . . . . 217 Drakensberg Park . . . . . 278
Cradle of Humankind . . . 349
Graaff-Reinet . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Southern Berg . . . . . . . . . 281
Southern Gauteng . . . . . . 350
Camdeboo Central Berg . . . . . . . . . . . 285
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 221 Northern Berg . . . . . . . . . . 288 Pretoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Nieu Bethesda . . . . . . . . . 222 Battlefields . . . . . . . . . . 290 Around Pretoria . . . . . .361
Mountain Zebra Spioenkop Smuts House
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 223 Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 290 Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
Cradock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Ladysmith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Fort Klapperkop
Military Museum . . . . . . . 361
Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
National
KWAZULU-NATAL . . 226 Isandlwana Botanical Garden . . . . . . . 362
Durban . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 & Rorke’s Drift . . . . . . . . . 295 Sammy Marks
South Coast . . . . . . . . .247 Blood River & Ncome Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
Monuments . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Warner Beach Cullinan
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Diamond Mine . . . . . . . . . 363
Umzumbe FREE STATE . . . . . . . 297
& Umtentweni . . . . . . . . . . 247
Bloemfontein . . . . . . . .300 MPUMALANGA . . . . 364
Oribi Gorge Nature
Reserve & Around . . . . . . 248 Northern Free State . . . 305 Drakensberg
Parys & Vredefort Escarpment . . . . . . . . . . 366
Ramsgate, Southbroom
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Dome Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Dullstroom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Kroonstad & Around . . . . 307 Waterval Boven . . . . . . . . . 368
North Coast . . . . . . . . . . 250
Umhlanga Rocks Eastern Highlands & Lydenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
& uMdloti Beach . . . . . . . . 250 Southern Free State . .307 Sabie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .369
ON THE ROAD
Pilgrim’s Rest . . . . . . . . . . 371
Graskop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 M
BEHWNMalaeahyszlldisettyepeelva r riRRnuenieiwi vvtLee . . . or . . .r w . . . . C . . . .va . . . .en . . . .lyd . . . .o . . . . . n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333333877777054657 ICHAEL HEFFERNAN/LONELY PLANET ©
Komatipoort . . . . . . . . . . . 381
Barberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381
Songimvelo
EASTERN CAPE P166
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 383
Piet Retief . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
Musina NORTHERN
KRUGER (Messina) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 CAPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438
Mapungubwe
NATIONAL PARK . . . 384 Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . 439
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 415
Private Venda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 The Upper Karoo . . . . .446
Wildlife Reserves . . . . . 399 Mokala National Park . . . 446
Valley of the
Sabi Sand Olifants . . . . . . . . . . . . .419 Victoria West . . . . . . . . . . . 447
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 400
Letaba Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 419 The Kalahari . . . . . . . . .447
Manyeleti
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 402 Tzaneen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Kuruman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
Timbavati Private Modjadjiskloof Witsand
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 402 (Duivelskloof) . . . . . . . . . . 422 Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 448
Ndzalama Private Upington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
Wildlife Reserve . . . . . . . . 422 Kgalagadi
LIMPOPO . . . . . . . . . 403
Phalaborwa . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 451
Capricorn . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Hoedspruit . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Augrabies Falls
Polokwane National Park . . . . . . . . . . 454
Acornhoek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
(Pietersburg) . . . . . . . . . . 406
Namakwa . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Bushveld . . . . . . . . . . . .409
Springbok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
NORTH WEST
Mokopane
Port Nolloth . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
(Potgietersrus) . . . . . . . . . 409 PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 426
|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld
Modimolle Rustenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 459
(Nylstroom) . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
Sun City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
Namaqua
Bela-Bela
Pilanesberg National Park . . . . . . . . . . 461
(Warmbaths) . . . . . . . . . . . 410
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 431
Calvinia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
The Waterberg . . . . . . . . . 411
Madikwe
Soutpansberg . . . . . . . .412 Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 433
LESOTHO . . . . . . . . . 463
Louis Trichardt Mahikeng (Mafikeng) . . . 435
(Makhado) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Magaliesberg . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Maseru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
Ben Lavin Around Maseru . . . . . . . 473
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 414
Thaba-Bosiu . . . . . . . . . . . 473
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Ha Baroana . . . . . . . . . . . . 473 Manzini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .499 South Africa, Lesotho
Roma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Northwestern & Swaziland Today . . . .508
Morija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
Ngwenya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501
Northwestern Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .529
Lesotho . . . . . . . . . . . . .475 Malolotja
Teyateyaneng . . . . . . . . . . 475 Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 501 Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 537
Leribe (Hlotse) . . . . . . . . . 476 Komati Valley . . . . . . . . . . 502 People & Culture . . . . .544
Butha-Buthe . . . . . . . . . . . 477 Northeastern Environment . . . . . . . . . 552
Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
Ts’ehlanyane
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 477 Hlane Royal Wildlife & Habitat . . . . . . 561
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 503
Northeastern
Mlawula
Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 504
Liphofung Cave
Cultural & Mbuluzi
Historical Site . . . . . . . . . . 478 Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 504
Oxbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478 Mkhaya
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 505 SURVIVAL
Mokhotlong . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
Southern Swaziland . . . 506 GUIDE
Sani Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
Nsoko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
Central Highlands . . . .481
Nhlangano & Around . . . . 506
Bokong Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 578
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 481
Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . .595
Katse Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
Thaba-Tseka . . . . . . . . . . . 482
Mohale Dam . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615
Semonkong . . . . . . . . . . . . 483 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 620
Southern Lesotho . . . . .483 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
Malealea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 483
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 638
Mafeteng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
Mohale’s Hoek . . . . . . . . . 484
Quthing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485
Qacha’s Nek . . . . . . . . . . . 485
Sehlabathebe
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 486
SPECIAL
SWAZILAND . . . . . . 487
FEATURES
Mbabane . . . . . . . . . . . .490
Music . . . . . . . . . . . . .529
Central Swaziland . . . . 492
Menu Decoder . . . . . .541
Ezulwini Valley . . . . . . . . . 493
Lobamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Wildlife & Habitat
Spotter’s Guide . . . . .561
Mlilwane
Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . 497 Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . 595
Malkerns Valley . . . . . . . . . 498
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to South Africa,
Lesotho & Swaziland
Lions, township art, clouds pouring over
Table Mountain, Kalahari dunes, Swazi
and Zulu ceremonies: Southern Africa’s
famous trio is rich with adventures and
experiences, culture and scenery.
Rainbow Nation Dramatic Landscapes
With people from Afrikaners to Zulus liv- South Africa’s landscapes are stunning, from
ing side by side and speaking 11 official the burning Karoo and Kalahari semideserts
languages, South Africa is undoubtedly one to the misty heights of the Drakensberg
range and the massive Blyde River Canyon.
of the world’s most diverse countries. Pastel
Even in urban Cape Town you need only look
rondavels (round huts with a conical roof)
up to see the beautiful fynbos (indigenous
dot the green ridges of the Drakensberg and
flora) climbing the slopes of Table Mountain
the Wild Coast, Nelson Mandela’s birthplace;
while, nearby, two of the world’s most dra-
Basotho shepherds clad in distinctive hats
matic coastal roads lead to Cape Point and
and blankets lead their sturdy ponies through
Hermanus. Add the vineyards carpeting the
Lesotho’s Maluti Mountains; and at the tra- Winelands, old-growth forests along the Gar-
ditional reed dances in Swaziland and Zulu- den Route and Tsitsikamma, Indian Ocean
land, debutantes dance with swaying reeds beaches and Lesotho’s inspiring mountains,
for local royalty. Meeting these people and and there is a staggering variety to enjoy.
experiencing their diverse cultures, all co-
existing thanks to Mandela’s legacy of toler- Activities & Adventure
ance, will leave you with indelible memories. Numerous activities take advantage of South
Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland’s sheer geo-
Wildlife Watching graphic and cultural diversity. Action-packed
adventures such as abseiling from Table
South Africa is one of the continent’s best
Mountain, shark-cage diving, surfing and
safari destinations, offering the Big Five
walking safaris are all offered; plus, at Blouk-
(lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino)
rans Bridge you can brave the world’s highest
and more in accessible parks and reserves.
bridge bungee jump (216m), and at Lesotho’s
You can drive your car right into the epic
Maletsunyane Falls, the world’s longest abseil
wilderness in Kruger, Kgalagadi and other (204m). For cultural experiences, spend a
parks, or join khaki-clad rangers on guided few days hiking the Wild Coast or trekking
drives and walks. A few coastal parks boast Lesotho’s mountain passes on a Basotho
the Big Seven, adding southern right whales pony. In the space of just a few hours, you can
and great white sharks to the mix, while learn to make Xhosa dishes or Cape Malay
wildlife-rich Swaziland has more than its curries, taste Cape wines or catch live music
share of black and white rhinos. in a township.
7
DEW
ALD KIRSTEN/GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland
By James Bainbridge, Author
I’ve been living in South Africa for five years, and I would find it hard to move. What gets me
is the intoxicating sense of space and freedom in areas such as the cobalt-skied Karoo and
mountainous Lesotho – and their accessibility. Within an hour’s drive of Cape Town, you can
be tasting at several hundred wine farms; within three, you can be deep in the Cederberg
mountains. For wilderness, wildlife and African culture mixed with excellent accommodation
and lekker (tasty) cuisine, South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland are unbeatable.
For more about our authors, see page 640
Above: Sandstone formations, Cederberg Wilderness Area (p162)
South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland
Central Kalahari
Game Reserve
Gobabis Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
WINDHOEK Lions and red Kalahari
sands (p451)
Tropic of Capricorn BOTSWANA
Johannesburg
Vibey galleries and
urban regeneration (p318)
Mariental Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Kanye
Park
Tshabong
NORTH WEST PROVINCE
Kalahari
Keetmanshoop
Vryburg
Namakwa Hotazel
NAMIBIA Vividop sepnr isnpga fcleosw (epr4s5 c6a)rpet Kuruman River
|Ai-|Ais Vaal
National Park
Upington
28ºS Richtersveld
ANleaxatinoBdnaeayrl PNarokordoewOerrange(Senqu)River ANuagtrioanbaiel sP Faarlkls Kimberley
30ºS Port Nolloth SpringNbAoMkAKWA NORTHERN CAPE Prieska Orange(Senqu)River
De Aar
Carnarvon
ATLANTIC Bitterfontein
OCEAN Middelburg
Calvinia
St Helena
Bay Cederberg Karoo Graaff-Reinet
The Winelands AWrieldaerness National Park Beaufort West
Cape Dutch estates produce O Camdeboo
world-Cclaapsse wToinwens (p1S0al0d)anha Celrifaentss River WESTERN CAPE Oudtshoorn National Park
Stunning city between Worcester Wilderness Tsitsikamma
mountains and sea (p44) Paarl Montagu George National Park National Park
Stellenbosch
34ºS TaNbCalAet iPMoEn oaTulO nPtWaariNnk Hermanus SwelDleen dHaomop MBoasysel Knysna BPaleyttenbergSt CFraapnecis
FBaalsye Bredasdorp NRaestuerrvee
Cape
Agulhas
16ºE 18ºE 20ºE 22ºE 24ºE