Skin Aging Handbook: an Integrated Approach to - ANME

536 Pages·2009·3.93 MB·English

SKIN AGING HANDBOOK
An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry
and Product Development
Edited by
Nava Dayan
Norwich, NY, USA
Copyright © 2008 by William Andrew Inc.
No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or me-
chanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the Publisher.
ISBN: 978-0-8155-1584-5
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Skin aging handbook : an integrated approach to biochemistry and product development / edited by
NavaDayan.
p. ; cm. -- (Personal care and cosmetic technology)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-8155-1584-5 (alk. paper)
1. Skin--Aging. 2. Cosmetics. 3. Dermatologic agents. 4. Cosmetic industry. 5. Dermatologic
agents industry. I.Dayan,Nava.II. Series.
[DNLM: 1. Skin Physiology--drug effects. 2. Aging--drug effects. 3.
Chemistry, Pharmaceutical. 4. Cosmetics--economics. 5.
Cosmetics--pharmacology. 6. Cosmetics--therapeutic use. WR 102 S62715 2008]
QP88.5.S553 2008
612.7’9--dc22
2008009757
Printed in the United States of America
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published by:
William Andrew Inc.
13 Eaton Avenue
Norwich,NY 13815
1-800-932-7045
www.williamandrew.com
CoverDesign by Russell Richardson
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY
This book has been printed digitally because this process does not use any plates, ink,
chemicals, or press solutions that are harmful to the environment. The paper used in
this book has a 30% recycled content.
NOTICE
To the best of our knowledge the information in this publication is accurate; however the Publisher
does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy or completeness of, or consequences
arising from, such information. This book is intended for informational purposes only. Mention of
trade names or commercial products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for their
use by the Publisher. Final determination of the suitability of any information or product for any use,
and the manner of that use, is the sole responsibility of the user. Anyone intending to rely upon any
recommendation of materials or procedures mentioned in this publication should be independently
satisfied as to such suitability, and must meet all applicable safety and health standards.
This book is a memorial to my grandparents Shifra and Yehoshua
Hershman, who raised me. They lost their families who were killed by the
Nazis during World War II. They will never age. God bless their souls.
Nava Dayan
Contents
Contributors ix
Preface xv
Part 1 Sociological Implications, Market View and IT Frontiers 1
1 Aging Skin in Sociocultural Perspective 3
Robert L. Rubinstein and Sarah Canham
2 Market Evolution of Topical Anti-aging Treatments 15
Ni’Kita Wilson
3 Computer-Based Age Progression Methodologies 35
Andreas Lanitis
Part 2 Biochemical, Pharmacological, and Ethnicity Aspects 53
4 Structural and Biochemical Changes in Aging Skin and
Their Impact on Skin Permeability Barrier 55
Rashmi Thakur, Priya Batheja, Diksha Kaushik, and
Bozena Michniak
5 Changes in Epidermal Lipids and Sebum Secretion
with Aging 91
Philip W. Wertz
6 Skin Disorders of Inflammation and Immune Suppression
in Young and Elder: A Special Role for Mast Cells 105
Moran Elishmereni and Francesca Levi-Schaffer
7 Cellular Senescence and Skin Aging 129
Elena Dellambra and Goberdhan P. Dimri
8 Prevention and Treatment of Aging Skin with
Topical Antioxidants 149
Karen E. Burke
vii
viii Contents
9 Skin Aging in the Asian Population 177
Helen Knaggs
Part 3 Product Development 203
10 The Use of Natural Compounds and Botanicals in
the Development of Anti-Aging Skin Care Products 205
Cindy K. Angerhofer, Daniel Maes, and Paolo U. Giacomoni
11 Approaches to the Development of Cosmetic Products
to Counter the Effects of Skin Aging 265
Gopinathan K. Menon, Laurence Dryer, and Robert Kalafsky
12 The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations 291
Domnica Cernasov
Part 4 Testing Methodologies 327
13 In Vitro Methods to Screen Materials for Anti-aging Effects 329
Robert W. Holtz
14 Clinical Testing to Uphold an Anti-aging Claim 363
Toni Miller
Part 5 Regulatory Aspects 391
15 Cosmetic Anti-aging Formulations—International
Regulatory Aspects 393
Azalea P. Rosholt
16 Strategic Regulatory Planning—Key to Success in
Anti-aging Cosmetic Product Development 409
Wen Schroeder
Glossary 455
Index 483
Contributors
Cindy K. Angerhofer
Aveda Corporation
4000 Pheasant Ridge Dr.
Minneapolis, MN 55449
USA
Priya Batheja
Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey
Piscataway, NJ 08854
USA
Karen E. Burke
Department of Dermatology
Mount Sinai Medical Center
One Gustave Levy Place
New York, NY 10025
USA
Sarah Canham
Doctoral Program in Gerontology
University of Maryland, Baltimore County
1000 Hilltop Circle
Baltimore, MD 21250
USA
Domnica Cernasov
Coty Inc.
Morris Plains, NJ 07950
USA
ix
x Contributors
Elena Dellambra
Laboratory of Tissue Engineering and Cutaneous Physiopathology
I.D.I.-IRCCS
Istituto Dermopatico dell’Immacolata
Via dei Castelli Romani, 83/85 Pomezia (Roma) 00040
Italy
Goberdhan P. Dimri
Division of Cancer Biology and Department of Medicine
ENH Research Institute, and Robert H. Lurie Comprehensive
Cancer Center
Feinberg School of Medicine
Northwestern University
1001 University Place
Evanston, IL 60201
USA
Laurence Dryer
As of January 2008:
BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Inc.
50 Health Sciences Drive
Stony Brook, NY 11790
USA
Moran Elishmereni
Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics,
School of Pharmacy
Faculty of Medicine
The Hebrew University of Jerusalem
POB 12065
Jerusalem 91120
Israel
Paolo U. Giacomoni
The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc.
Melville, NY 11747
USA
Robert W. Holtz
Director of Laboratory Studies
BioInnovation Laboratories, Inc.
7220 W. Jefferson Ave., STE 112
Lakewood, CO 80235
USA
Contributors xi
Robert Kalafsky
Avon Products, Inc.
Avon Place
Suffern, NY 10901
USA
Diksha Kaushik
Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey
Piscataway, NJ 08854
USA
Helen Knaggs
Nu Skin
75W Center Street
Provo, UTAH 84601
USA
Andreas Lanitis
Department of Multimedia and Graphic Arts
Faculty of Communication and Applied Arts
Cyprus University of Technology
P.O. Box 50329, 3036
Lemesos, Cyprus
Francesca Levi-Schaffer
Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics,
School of Pharmacy
Faculty of Medicine
The Hebrew University of Jerusalem
POB 12065
Jerusalem 91120
Israel
Daniel Maes
The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc.
Melville, NY 11747
USA
xii Contributors
Gopinathan K. Menon
As of October 2007:
Global R & D, ISP Corporation
Wayne, NJ 07470
USA
Bozena Michniak
Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey
Piscataway, NJ 08854
USA
Toni Miller
Essex Testing Clinic Inc.
799 Bloomfi eld Ave
Verona, NJ 07044
USA
Azalea P. Rosholt
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
Washington, DC 20036
USA
Robert L. Rubinstein
Department of Sociology and Anthropology
Erickson School of Aging Studies
University of Maryland, Baltimore County
1000 Hilltop Circle
Baltimore, MD 21250
USA
Wen Schroeder
SEKI Cosmeticals
232 E. Carrington Lane
Appleton, WI 54913
USA
Rashmi Thakur
Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy
Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey
Piscataway, NJ 08854
USA