Signature - A Chef on the Banks of the Loire

178 Pages·2018·36.843 MB·English

by  Christophe Hay, Florence Lécuyer, Sophie Brissaud, Clélia Ozier-Lafontaine

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CHRISTOPHE
Few chefs are as passionately committed to their
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terroir and their environment as Christophe Hay,
S I G N A T U R E
owner of La Maison d’à Côté in Montlivault, of Côté
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Bistrot in the same village, and of La Table d’à Côté
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near Orléans.
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First a companion of chef Éric Reithler at Au Rendez-
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Vous des Pêcheurs in Blois, then of Paul Bocuse at

Epcot Center, Florida, he has the dual experience of
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being an expat chef and, after his return to France,
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of growing new roots in his native region. From his
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childhood in the Loire valley, he learned a lasting and
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profound lesson about respect, caring for others, and a
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constant search for peace — the very peace one feels H
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contemplating the beautiful Loire river. E
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All the local products — game from the Chambord R A CHEF ON THE BANKS
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forest, fish from the Loire, Vineuil white asparagus, wild
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mushrooms, wagyu beef, géline de Touraine heirloom OF THE LOIRE
chicken, or Sologne caviar — are to him and his team N
like a painter’s palette, through which they reveal the K
culinary identity of the Jardin de la France, the other
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name of the Loire valley.

“Discover Christophe Hay’s Loire
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Studio Flam FFlam Valley and his generous, HCHRIASTOYPHE
Flammarion Création lamma respect-driveFnla cmumisairnioen.” A CHOEFF TOHNE T LHOEI RBEANKS
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Prix France : 19,90  an
ISBN : 978-2-0814-7872-5 r
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18-XI Création Studio Flammarion
Photos © Julie Limont
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All the photographs in this book are by Julie Limont,
with the exception of the following: pp. 11, 17 and 78
(private collection) and p. 105 (Sophie Brissaud).
Editorial Director: Florence Lécuyer
Collection Director: Sophie Brissaud
Editors: Clélia Ozier-Lafontaine
Graphics and Design: Audrey Sednaoui / Flammarion
Page Layout: Florence Cailly / www.florencecailly.com
Translated from the French by Ansley Evans (texts)
and Sophie Brissaud (recipes).
© Flammarion, Paris, 2018
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-2-0814-8125-1
Legal Deposit: 11/2018
editions.flammarion.com
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CHRISTOPHE
S I G N A T U R E
H AY
A CHEF ON THE BANKS
OF THE LOIRE
Photography by
JULIE LIMONT
Flammarion
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CONTENTS
FOREWORD 7 ARTISANS AND PRODUCERS 94
Anne-Marie Hahusseau 97
MY ROOTS 8 Michel Angier and
FROM THE FARM TO THE KITCHEN 10 Adèle Champdavoine 98
BLOIS, FLORIDA, AND THE GOLDEN The Puzelat brothers 101
TRIANGLE IN PARIS 16 Noëlla Morantin 102
Simple, delicate cuisine 18 Boulangerie Marlau 104
Patricia and Vincent Hennequart 105
RIDE ON BOARD OF LOIRE 20 Thierry Roussel 106
ALONG THE BANKS Mickaël Grignon 109
OF THE LOIRE RIVER 22
Jean-Michel Morand 110
Sylvain Arnoult 26
Jean-Pierre Chaussard
RECIPES 30 and Marie-Anne Mignot 112
Marc Gricourt, maire de Blois 115
SOLOGNE AND CHAMBORD 46 RECIPES 116
THE SOLOGNE FORESTS 48
Jean d’Haussonville 51 OUR RESTAURANTS AND THE
RECIPES 52 PEOPLE WHO SUSTAIN THEM 146
THE THREE RESTAURANTS 148
OUR GARDEN 74 Charles Bernabé 154
“A little valley bubbling with light” 76 Nicolas Aubry 155
Alain Gaillard 78 Sébastien Durance 156
Saffron from Sologne 79 Aurélien Largeau 157
RECIPES 80 RECIPES 158
APPENDIXES 173
Acknowledgements 173
Index 174
Index of recipes by category 175
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FOREWORD
Going back to our founding fathers like Antonin Carême and Auguste Escoffier, RD
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there has been a real tradition of books by chefs. These books are life-long W
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companions. They are indispensable as we are learning, and later, we collect them R
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voraciously. Each book is a beautiful encounter that brings chefs together and
helps us grow.
For many chefs, myself included, the need to write such a book stems from a gen-
uine frustration—a meal is ephemeral. In this book, I wish to transcend this fleeting
moment and extend the sense of communion that we feel at each meal with our
guests. This book is meant to be an homage to my terroir and the artisans and pro-
ducers we work with at La Maison d’à Côté, but it is also an opportunity to share
several recipes I love. Finally, I wish to share my belief in the importance of cooking
in a manner that is ever-conscious of the global challenges we all face today. I call
this cooking with respect.
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