Table Of ContentScience and the Beauty Business
Companion volume by the same author
Science and the Beauty Business -
VOLUME 2 The Beauty Salon and its Equipment
Science and the
Beauty Business
VOLUME 1
The Science of Cosmetics
John V. Simmons
BSc (Hans) C Bioi MI Bioi
Member of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists
M
MACMILLAN
© John V. Simmons 1989
All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission
of this pUblication may be made without written permission.
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or transmitted save with written permission or in
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Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this
publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil
claims for damages.
First published 1989
Published by
MACMILLAN EDUCATION LTD
Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 2XS
and London
Companies and representatives
throughout the world
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Simmons, John V.
Science and the beauty business.
V.1: The science of cosmetics
1. Beauty culture
I. Title
646.7'2 TT958
ISBN 978-0-333-43845-9 ISBN 978-1-349-19705-7 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-1-349-19705-7
Contents
Preface ix
Acknowledgements Xl
1 Weighing and Measuring in Laboratory and Salon 1
Metric system - Systeme International; conversion between
metric and Imperial; weighing and measuring in the beauty
salon; weighing and measuring equipment in the laboratory;
density and relative density; temperature
2 An Introduction to Chemistry 9
Substances; states of matter; elements and compounds; acids
and alkalis; indicators and pH; the pH of the skin and its
significance
3 Atoms, Molecules and Ions 19
The structure of atoms; atoms in molecules; molecule models;
chemical bonds; ions and ionisation
4 Organic Compounds in Cosmetics 26
The special properties of carbon; hydrocarbons; alcohols;
organic and fatty acids; soaps; esters; waxes; fats and oils;
amines; aldehydes and ketones; ethers
5 Water 36
Water supplies; distilled and deionised water; microbiologically
pure water; hard and soft water; water softening
6 Cosmetics and Toiletries as Mixtures 45
Mixtures of solids and liquids; powder mixtures in cosmetics;
solutions and solubility; suspensions and dispersions; emul-
sions; making creams and lotions in the laboratory; use of
preservatives in cosmetics; industrial manufacture of creams
and lotions
7 Surface Activity, Emulsions and Detergency 57
Cosmetic creams and lotions as emulsions; detergent clean-
sers; surface tension; reducing surface tension with surfac-
tants; solubilisation; forming an emulsion; oil-in-water and
water-in-oil emulsions; choosing a surfactant; cleansing action
of detergents; lathers and foams
8 Detergents and Emulsifiers 67
Soaps and soapless detergents; classification of surfactants;
anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants; manu-
facture of soaps and soapless detergents; pH of surfactants;
thickening detergent products
9 Skin 78
The body and the environment; the functions of the skin; the
structure of the skin; the epidermis, its function, structure and
growth; the dermis, its structure and significance; the blood
supply; the nerve supply; the sweat glands; the sebaceous
glands; the hair follicles; skin colour
10 A Clean Face 91
The nature of dirt on the skin; removing greasy dirt; formula-
tion of cleansing creams; cold creams and cleansing lotions;
astringents and skin tonics
11 Products for Bath and Shower 98
Use of soaps and detergents for bathing; bubble baths and
shower gels; softening the bath water; bath salts, bath crystals,
bath cubes; bath oils and essences; tales and dusting powders;
antiperspirants and deodorants
12 Skin Care - the Problems 107
Problems of the younger skin; dry skin; emollients; moistur-
isers; acids in skin care; greasy skin; acne; caring for greasy
skin; the aging skin; the natural aging process; premature
aging; the effects of ultra-violet rays
13 Skin Care Cosmetics 115
High oil content creams for dry skins; moisturising creams and
lotions; pH balanced creams and lotions; face packs and masks;
natural materials in skin care; essential oils and herbal extracts
in skin care products
14 Decorative Cosmetics 125
Colour in cosmetics; legislation and the choice of safe dyes and
pigments for cosmetics; pigments for decorative cosmetics;
vanishing and foundation creams; face powders, compacts and
tinted foundations; rouges and blushers; eye make-up; lipsticks
15 Sunshine, Suntan, Sunburn 144
Suntanning products; sunscreens; fake tans; melanogenics;
treatments for sunburn; skin bleaches
16 The Hands, the Feet, the Nails 148
Hand care problems; hand creams and lotions; protective hand
creams; hand cleansers; care of the feet; foot care products;
the nails; nail disorders; nail care products; nail enamels and
varnishes
17 Hair 160
Types of hair; the hair follicle; hair growth; the growth cycle of
a terminal hair; the hair shaft; strength of the hair; the struc-
ture of the hair shaft; the chemistry of keratin - the hair
protein; hair colour
18 Hair Care 173
Shampoos; hair condition and conditioners; setting lotions;
hairsprays; haircreams and oily dressings
19 Hair Waving and Hair Colouring 181
Temporary hair waving; permanent waving; perm lotions and
neutralisers; old-fashioned perms; bleaching the hair; dyeing
the hair; temporary, semi-permanent and permanent hair
colours
VI
CONTENTS
20 Unwanted Hair 191
Depilation; wax depilatories; depilatory creams; shaving;
shaving creams and foams; after-shave lotions
21 The Teeth and Oral Hygiene 197
Dentition; tooth structure; dental hygiene problems; tooth
decay; toothpastes; mouthwashes
22 Perfumery 201
The broad scope of perfumery; the sense of smell; raw mater-
ials for perfumery; essential oils and their extraction; animal
products; synthetic perfumery materials; the perfumer; some
simple formulations; skin perfumes and colognes; perfumes for
consumer products
23 The Development and Testing of Cosmetic Products 214
The organisation of a cosmetic house; the development of new
products; product testing; evaluating product performance;
safety testing; microbiological safety; toxicity; allergy; irri-
tation and sensitisation
24 Packaging Cosmetics and Toiletries 226
Psychology of packaging; product information; packaging
materials; glass, plastics and metal containers; paper and board
containers; caps and lids; specialised containers; pump dis-
pensers and atomisers; aerosols; aerosol propellants; aerosol
safety
Bibliography 239
Glossary a/Terms 241
Index 243
Vll
Preface
The scientific principles of Beauty Therapy divide quite naturally into two
distinct areas: the science of cosmetics and toiletries which is the subject of
this volume, and the science of the salon and its equipment which is dealt with
in Volume 2.
Together, the two volumes are primarily intended for students of Beauty
Therapy studying for the major examinations offered by BTEC, the City and
Guilds of London Institute and the professional beauty therapy organisations.
The content is however deliberately not limited by the examination sylla
buses. Instead it examines the scientific principles of all aspects of the beauty
industry and as such it will be valuable to all who seek a good general insight
into the subject.
Cosmetics are products to be applied to improve the appearance and instil a
Cosmetics &
feeling of self-confidence - to LOOK GOOD, SMELL GOOD and FEEL
toiletries GOOD.
There are actually two groups of products, cosmetics and toiletries. Until
recently the two terms were ill-defined. Some products were called cos
metics, some were toiletries and others could be either. Legislation has now
clarified the matter:
Cosmetics - are skin care and decorative products; that is, skin creams and
lotions and make-up.
Toiletries - are cleansing products and 'active' products such as anti
perspirants and depilatories.
There remains, however, a 'grey' area in distinguishing between certain
active cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. To be effective some products must
actually affect the physiology of the part of the body to which they are applied.
This brings them rather close to being products applied for a medicinal
purpose.
The early chapters consider the theoretical and practical aspects of the
The sequence of
formulation of cosmetics and toiletries. Next there follow chapters on the skin
the book and skin care products, the hands, the feet and the nails, the hair and hair care
products, and the teeth. Finally the book deals with perfumery, product
safety and the packaging of products.
Although it is by no means an exhaustive 'recipe book', many formulations for
The formulations
products are given. Mostly, they have been selected from the technical
literature. They have been chosen with two main considerations in mind:
1 that they are representative of the particular type of product - though it
is unlikely that they will exactly copy any market brand;
2 that, as far as possible, the raw materials used are obtainable from the
usual laboratory suppliers, although this is not always possible and certain
materials will have to be obtained from specialist suppliers or even from
the manufacturers.
IX
As far as possible, the suggested formulations comply with the current
The legal
legislation regarding cosmetics and toiletries as laid down in the EEC
considerations Cosmetics Directive of 1972 and enacted in the UK by the Cosmetic Product
Regulations of 1978 which are part of the Consumer Protection Act of 1961.
This legislation is under constant review and is frequently updated, so the
intending manufacturer must ascertain the legal position current at the time
regarding the materials and methods it is intended to use. He must also
appreciate that the manufacturers and suppliers of raw materials ACCEPT NO
RESPONSIBILITY for the way in which their materials are used.
When innovative materials and formulations are introduced it is customary
for the innovators to patent their ideas. If it is intended to manufacture any
published formulation for sale, the manufacturer must ascertain the patent
situation regarding that formulation.
x
