Table Of ContentC O O K B O O K
Ricky Moore
P r a i s e f o r
Saltbox Seafood Joint® Cookbook
“S altbox Seafood Joint Cookbook speaks to that classic coastal cookery that resonates
with folks young and old. Chef Ricky Moore educates us about food and waterways
in North Carolina while offering us the best damn chowder you’ll ever eat!”
—MaShaMa bailey, executive chef, The Grey, and James Beard Award winner
for Best Chef Southeast
“E ven if Aquaman went to culinary school, he couldn’t have written a finer seafood
cookbook than Saltbox Seafood Joint Cookbook. Chef Ricky Moore’s deep knowledge
of—and love for—seafood shines on every page. This cookbook is hotter than fish
grease!”
—adrian Miller, author of The President’s Kitchen Cabinet
“ A marvelously big-hearted cookbook that feels like it was written by a friend who
happens to run a great seafood joint (and who happens to be a classically trained
chef). Introducing readers to the eastern North Carolina specialties Ricky Moore
grew up learning to cook, Saltbox Seafood Joint Cookbook is refreshing and necessary
for anyone who wants to cook fish at home.”
—kelly alexander, author of Smokin’ with Myron Mixon
“R icky Moore has captured the heart and soul of the North Carolina coast like no
other chef ever has—a tremendous accomplishment. I have been waiting all my life
for this cookbook!”
—david CeCelSki, author of The Waterman’s Song
“ Chef Ricky’s recipes are secular and sacred. They exist between the soul of a Friday
night fish fry and the gospel of a Sunday afternoon fish stew. Saltbox Seafood Joint
Cookbook captures the rhythm where the Neuse and Trent Rivers meet with recipes
that call for extended dinner tables and multiple second helpings.”
—Shirlette aMMonS, writer, producer, and musician whose albums include
Language Barrier and Spectacles
“R icky Moore should be named a state treasure for his indescribably delicious
work and passion that allows us to savor the distinctive seafood of North Carolina
and the coastal South. Here he teaches us that good fish—anywhere—is local,
seasonal, fresh, and simply prepared.”
—MarCie Cohen ferriS, author of The Edible South
“ A cookbook that puts seafood up front, demystifying the process of selecting,
prepping, and then frying, broiling, and grilling to perfection. Ricky Moore traces
his evolution from the New Bern fishing hole to his military service, culinary
school training, and experiences working as a chef at top restaurants—and then
he recounts the wonderful story of how he started his restaurants in Durham,
North Carolina. And I really savored the explanation behind his Hush-Honeys.”
—bridgette a. laCy, author of Sunday Dinner: A Savor the South Cookbook
“S altbox Seafood Joint Cookbook is a treasure that will be savored and read cover
to cover by seafood lovers. Ricky Moore has focused his eye, from childhood to
the present, on fish—catching, cooking, and eating it. His mantra is simplicity,
breathtaking simplicity, and doing one thing well. He is the acknowledged master
of cooking seafood.”
—WilliaM ferriS, author of The South in Color: A Visual Journal
Saltbox Seafood Joint® Cookbook
Seasonal Seafood Freshly Cooked,
Good Fish That’s the Hook®
®
C O O K B O O K
Ricky Moore
Written with K. C. Hysmith
the university of north Carolina Press ChaPel hill
This book was published with the assistance of the Blythe Family Fund
of the University of North Carolina Press.
© 2019 Ricky V. Moore
Saltbox Seafood Joint® and Hush-Honeys® are registered trademarks of Ricky V. Moore.
All rights reserved
Manufactured in the United States of America
Designed by Kimberly Bryant and set in Whitman by Rebecca Evans
The University of North Carolina Press has been a member of the Green Press Initiative
since 2003.
Cover photograph courtesy of Briana Brough.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Moore, Ricky, author. | Hysmith, K. C. (Katherine C.)
Title: Saltbox Seafood Joint cookbook / Ricky Moore; written with K. C. Hysmith.
Description: Chapel Hill : The University of North Carolina Press, [2019] |
Includes index.
Identifiers: lCCn 2019011821| isBn 9781469653532 (cloth : alk. paper) |
isBn 9781469653549 (ebook)
Subjects: lCsh: Saltbox Seafood Joint. | Cooking (Seafood)—North Carolina. |
lCGft: Cookbooks.
Classification: lCC tX747 .M774 2019 | DDC 641.6/92—dc23
lC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019011821
To my wife, Norma, for asking the question, “Where can I get a
good fish sandwich?” and for all her wonderful support over the years.
Being the spouse of a chef takes a special kind of person.
Big shout out, high-five, and salute to my daughter, Hunter Johanna,
and my son, Greyson Beckham, for always being my inspiration.
And, finally, to all the hardworking fishermen, crabbers, and oystermen
in North Carolina; without them, Saltbox Seafood Joint would not be.
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments ix
introduCtion The Story of Saltbox Seafood 1
the fiSh kitChen ruleS
School Lessons: Fish Varieties 18
Knife Work: Cuts 25
What’s Running When: Seasonality 27
Helpful Kitchen Equipment 28
Sources for Fish and Know-How 28
Standard operating proCedure Stocks, Seasonings, and Sauces 29
fried and Joy Pan-Frying and Deep-Frying 41
into the CoalS Grilling, Smoking, and Charcoaling 59
one-potS Soups, Chowders, and Stews 75
perfeCt hoMiny Grits and Seafood 97
the Spread Hot and Cold Sides 113
MenuS 130
Line Drawing Credits 132
Index 133
SidebarS
Fish Grease versus Other Grease 40
Freeman’s Beach / Seabreeze 46
Definition—“Calabash” 48
Definition—“Fried Hard” 54
A Bake Is Really a Boil 62
Smoked Fish 69
Please Don’t Say Trashfish/Uglyfish 82
White Bread Bone Cushion 95
Grits, Shrimp, Pork, and Gravy 100
No Such Thing as North Carolina Dinner Grits 110
West Indies Salad Mythology 116
Church Spreads and Cucumber and Onion Salad 127
