Table Of ContentRO OT S
The definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes
DIANE MORGAN
FOREWORD BY DEBORAH MADISON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS
A ROOTS
ROOTS
The definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes
DIANE MORGAN
FOREWORD BY DEBORAH MADISON
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS
IN LOVING MEMORY OF MY PARENTS,
Julius Ronald LevKoy and Irene Miller LevKoy
Text copyright © 2012 by Diane Morgan.
Foreword copyright © 2012 by Deborah Madison.
Photographs copyright © 2012 by Antonis Achilleos.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced
in any form without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4521-0847-6 (eBook)
The Library of Congress has previously cataloged this title under
ISBN 978-0-8118-7837-1.
Designed by SARAH PULVER
Prop styling by PAIGE HICKS
Food styling by JAMIE KIMM
Typesetting by KATE KAMINSKI
The photographer wishes to thank Jamie and Paige, for the great collaboration,
hard work, and beautiful vision that made this project a lot of fun. Also I would
like to thank the creative team at Chronicle for their great attentiveness and for
promptly answering our countless questions about all the different types of roots.
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
CONTENTS
FOREWORD by Deborah Madison 10 Chioggia Beet Carpaccio with Arugula and
Panko-Crusted Panfried Goat Cheese 52
INTRODUCTION 13
Beets, Prosciutto-Wrapped Persimmons,
and Bitter Greens with Creamy Blue Cheese 53
ROOTS, TUBERS, RHIZOMES, AND CORMS 16
Chilled Beet Soup with Dill and Crème Fraîche 54
THE ROOT CELLAR 18 Hot Beef Borscht 55
Golden Beet Risotto with Crumbled Ricotta
Salata and Sautéed Beet Greens 56
ANDEAN TUBERS 21
Beet Hash with Spicy Chicken Sausage
Causa Trucha Ahumado (Potato Cake with Smoked Trout) 24
and Soft-Cooked Eggs 57
Causa Vegetariano
Red Velvet Cupcakes with Orange Buttercream 58
(Potato Cake with Vegetables and Cheese) 26
Papas a la Huancaína
BURDOCK ROOT 61
(Potatoes with Cheese and Chile Sauce) 28
Parboiled Burdock Root 63
Ocopa Limea (Peruvian Yellow Potatoes with Ocopa Sauce) 29
Shredded Burdock in Tangy Sesame Sauce 64
Picante de Ullucos (Ullucos in Hot Sauce) 30
Burdock in Spicy Kochu Jang Sauce 65
Carapulcra (Pork and Freeze-Dried Potatoes) 32
Burdock Miso-Zuke 66
Cazuela de Gallina (Chicken Pot with Vegetables) 33
Burdock and Carrot Kinpira 67
ARROWHEAD 35 Kale and Burdock Root in Curried Cream 68
Persimmon and Arrowhead 37 Elizabeth Andoh’s Miso-Thickened Pork and
Burdock Soup 69
Arrowhead Leek Soup 38
Grilled Beef-Wrapped Burdock Root 70
Roasted Lemongrass Chicken with Arrowhead 39
Steamed Mussels with Burdock Root, Shallots,
Clay Pot–Caramelized Pork Belly and Arrowhead Stew 40
and Sun-Dried Tomatoes 73
BEET 43
CARROT 75
Roasted Beets 45
Spicy Thai Pickled Carrots 77
Sautéed Beet Greens 47
Carrot, Napa Cabbage, and Apple Slaw with
Pickled Beets with Star Anise and Cinnamon 48 Creamy Poppy Seed Dressing 78
Beet Salsa with Avocado and Blood Orange 49 Carrot Top Pesto 79
Raw Beet Slaw with Fennel, Tart Apple, and Parsley 50 Carrot Ribbons with Sorrel Pesto and
Frisée Salad with Golden Beets, Crumbled Goat Cheese 81
Poached Eggs, and Bacon-Sherry Vinaigrette 51 Moroccan Carrot and Chickpea Salad with
Dried Plums and Toasted Cumin Vinaigrette 82
Butter-Braised Baby Carrots with Dill 83 Banana Leaf–Wrapped Grilled Salmon with
a Galangal-Lemongrass Marinade 125
Caramelized Spiced Carrots with Honey and Orange 84
Lacy Galangal Brandy Crisps 127
Stir-Fried Carrots and Fennel with Garlic 85
Chocolate-Galangal Crinkle Cookies 128
Farro with Carrots, Red Grapes, and Pearl Onions 86
Poached Asian Pears with Galangal and Honey 129
Lamb and Carrot Curry 87
White Carrot Crab Bisque 88
GINGER 131
Holiday Carrot Pudding 90
Sushi-Style Pickled Ginger 133
Carrot–Poppy Seed Bundt Cake with Meyer Lemon Glaze 91
Ginger Vinaigrette with Cilantro and Green Onion 134
Carrot Cardamom Marmalade 92
Dungeness Crab Cakes with Ginger 135
Kevin Ludwig’s Carrot Margarita 93
Korean-Style Grilled Short Ribs 137
Gingerbread Cake with Crème Anglaise 138
CELERY ROOT 95
Old-Fashioned Gingersnaps 140
Celery Root Rémoulade 97
Ginger Panna Cotta 141
Cream of Celery Root Soup 98
Brown Sugar–Ginger Ice Cream 142
Celery Root Soup with Rotisserie Chicken,
Kale, and Cremini Mushrooms 99 Candied Young Ginger 143
Celery Root, Celery Heart, and Celery Leaf Salad 100 Homemade Ginger Ale 145
Celery Root Purée with Anjou Pear 102
Celery Root Gratin 103 HORSERADISH 147
Horseradish Sour Cream Dip 149
Truffled Celery Root Flan with Bacon Garnish 104
Lemon Horseradish Butter 150
CROSNE 107 Horseradish Vinaigrette 150
Parboiled Crosnes 109 Horseradish and Beet Gravlax 152
Pickled Crosnes 109 Smoked Whitefish Salad with Horseradish Vinaigrette 153
Curried Crosne Fritters 110 Sautéed Horseradish Gnocchi 154
Sautéed Crosnes with Crisp Pepper Bacon, Prime Rib of Beef with Horseradish Cream 156
Garlic, and Parsley 111
Crosnes with Truffled Cream 111 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 159
Russian Salad with Shrimp and Crosnes 112 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes 161
Spicy Ginger Pork and Crosnes in Bean Sauce 113 Jerusalem Artichoke Soup 162
Dr. Gibson Meet Mr. Crosne (Pickled Crosne Martini) 114 Winter Greens, Sunchokes, Carrots, Fennel, and
Radishes with Grainy-Mustard Vinaigrette 163
GALANGAL 117 Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes 164
Red Curry Paste 119 Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes with Lemon,
Rosemary, and Garlic 164
Galangal-Tarragon Sauce for Seafood 120
Pan-Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes and Butternut Squash 165
Tom Kha Gai (Thai Galangal Chicken Soup) 121
Jerusalem Artichoke and Artichoke Heart Linguine 166
Snake Bean Coconut Curry 122
Red Curry and Galangal Grilled Chicken Drumettes 123
JICAMA 169 PARSNIP 219
Jicama, Roasted Corn, and Black Bean Salsa 171 Parsnip and Potato Soup with Crisp Diced Bacon 221
Blood Orange Salad with Jicama, Arugula, and Silky Parsnip Purée 222
Oil-Cured Olives 173
Orange-Braised Parsnips with Cumin and Mint 222
Composed Jicama, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad with
Parsnips with Goat’s Milk Butter and Thyme 223
Cilantro Drizzle 174
Roasted Parsnips and Carrots with Fresh Dill 223
Jicama and Watermelon Salad with Thai Basil and Pink
Peppercorn Vinaigrette 175 Seared Duck Breast over Parsnip Purée with
Port Reduction 224
Wintertime Jicama Slaw 176
Spaghetti Carbonara with Parsnips, Pancetta, and Peas 226
Shrimp and Jicama Ceviche 177
Three-Layer Parsnip Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting 227
Salmon Salad Rolls with Cellophane Noodles, Jicama,
and Green Onions 178
POTATO 231
Potato and Corn Clam Chowder with Fresh Thyme 233
LOTUS ROOT 181
Barbara Tropp’s Lemon-Pickled Lotus Root 183 Gerda’s Austrian Potato Salad 234
Lotus Root Salad with Spicy Thai Vinaigrette 184 Classic Mashed Potatoes 235
Quick Lemon Chicken Soup with Lotus Root, Butter Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes with Parmesan 236
Green Onions, and Chiles 185 Colcannon 237
Lotus Root, Shrimp, and Vegetable Tempura 186 Grandma Rose’s Latkes 238
Stir-Fried Lotus Root and Snow Peas 189 Ultimate Hand-Cut French Fries 239
Lotus Root Chips 190 Potatoes Sautéed in Duck Fat 240
Candied Lotus Root 191 Roasted New Potatoes with Romesco Sauce 241
Lotus Root Upside-Down Cake 192 Grilled Fingerling Potatoes with Crumbled
Blue Cheese Sauce 242
MALANGA 195 Twice-Baked Gruyère Potatoes with
Cream of Malanga Soup with Malanga Crisps 197 Lots of Green Onions 243
Malanga Fritters with Serrano Chiles and Garlic 198 Suneeta’s Potato Chaat with Cilantro-Mint Chutney 244
Alcapurrias 200 Istrian Potatoes 246
Roasted Garlic Mashed Malanga 202 Parmesan-Crusted Potato Gratin with Fresh Thyme 247
Golden Malanga Coconut Balls 203
RADISH 249
Cuban Malanga Pie 204
Sweet Pickled Daikon 251
Biwa Daikon Kimchi 252
PARSLEY ROOT 207
Parsley Root, Apple, and Watercress Salad 209 Easter Egg Radish Crostini with Herbed Goat Cheese 254
Parsley Root Tortilla Española 210 French Breakfast Radishes with Herb Butter and Sel Gris 255
Parsley Root and Butternut Squash Gratin 211 Radish Top Soup 256
Smashed Parsley Roots and Potatoes with Crème Fraîche 212 Red Radish Salad and Radish Greens with
Lemon Crème Fraîche 257
Grandma Rose’s Pulled Chicken Soup with
Parsley Roots, Carrots, and Herbs 213 Shaved Watermelon Radish and Asparagus Salad
with Castelvetrano Olives and Gouda 258
Chicken Fricassee with Parsley Roots and
Chanterelle Mushrooms 215 Asian Pear and Daikon Salad with Yuzu Vinaigrette 260
Daikon and Apple Slaw 261 Sweet Potato–Topped Turkey Potpie 304
Black Radish Tuna Salad Sandwiches 262 Roast Turkey and Sweet Potato Chowder 305
Panfried Trout with Roasted Radishes and Sweet Potato Pie with a Gingerbread Crust and
Radish Green Salsa Verde 263 Bourbon Whipped Cream 306
RUTABAGA 265 TARO 309
Roasted Root Vegetable Stock 267 Taro Chips 311
Farro Salad with Roasted Rutabaga, Goat Cheese, Panko-Crusted Taro 312
and Hazelnuts 268
Sautéed Taro with a Sesame, Garlic, and Honey Glaze 313
Butter-Roasted Rutabagas 269
Soba Noodles in Mushroom Broth with
Honey-Braised Rutabagas 270 Taro and Kabocha Squash 314
Microbrew-Braised Rutabagas 271 Vietnamese Pork and Taro Stew with Green Garlic 316
Rutabaga Hash with Onions and Crisp Bacon 273 Thai-Style Sweet Pancakes with Taro Root
Lemon Cream Filling 317
Sour Cream Mashed Rutabagas with Fresh Dill 274
Domenica Marchetti’s Pot Roast with Honey-
Roasted Rutabagas 275 TURMERIC 319
Thai Kao Soi Paste 321
Rustic Apple and Rutabaga Tart 276
Cambodian Kroeung Paste 322
SALSIFY AND SCORZONERA 279 Yellow Rice 323
Parboiled Salsify or Scorzonera 281 Okra Curry 324
Scorzonera Wrapped in Crisp Prosciutto 282 Indian-Spiced Cauliflower, Potatoes, and Peas 325
Scorzonera and Wild Mushroom Ragout 283 Spicy Turmeric-Scented Kohlrabi 326
Red Quinoa with Scorzonera, Carrots, and Swiss Chard 284 Chicken Skewers with Cambodian Kroeung Paste 327
Scorzonera Fettuccine in Mushroom Cream Sauce 285 Chiang Mai Curry Noodles 328
Salsify Oyster Stew 286 Crisp-Fried Tofu and Vegetables in
Kao Soi Coconut Broth 330
Salsify Provençal 287
Turmeric-Braised Halibut Steaks with Garlic 331
Roasted Salsify with Thyme and Bacon Bread Crumbs 288
Pan-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Salsify,
Carrots, Chickpeas, and Cranberries 289 TURNIP 333
Roasted Turnip Ghanoush 335
SWEET POTATO 293 Turnip and Carrot Kraut with Caraway 336
Aracely’s Sweet Potato Waffles 295 Creamy Turnip Soup with Greens 337
Sweet Potato Biscuits 296 White Balsamic–Glazed Turnips 338
Moroccan Sweet Potato Salad 297 Roasted Turnips with Thyme 338
Susie Middleton’s Sweet Potato “Mini Fries” with Turnips and Leeks in Miso Butter 339
Limy Dipping Sauce and Spiced Salt 298
Kashmiri-Style Turnips with Greens 341
Honey and Chipotle Roasted Sweet Potato Spears 299
Turnip Greens Gumbo Z’Herbes 342
Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Maple and Adobo Glaze 300
Pancetta-Wrapped Baby Turnips 343
Garnet Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Streusel 301
Herb-Roasted Chicken with Turnips and Chanterelles 344
Jewel Sweet Potato Ravioli with
Farfalle Pasta with Turnips and Their Greens 346
Sage Brown Butter Sauce 302
Shanghai Braised Beef with Turnips 347
WASABI 349 OTHER ROOTS 399
Wasabi Mayonnaise 351
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 404
Fresh Wasabi Paste 352
Wasabi Avocado Dip 353 SOURCES 407
Wasabi Mashed Potatoes 354
INDEX 409
Oyster Shooters with Wasabi 354
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 431
Tuna Tartare with Wasabi 355
Seared Scallops with Wasabi-Daikon Relish 357
Salmon Hand Rolls with Fresh Wasabi 358
Grilled Wasabi Salmon 360
Asian Turkey Burgers with Wasabi Mayonnaise 361
Wasabi-Crusted Roast Beef Tenderloin 362
WATER CHESTNUT 365
Porcupine Balls 367
Asian Shrimp Dip 368
Shrimp Toasts 369
Thai Seafood Salad with Fresh Water Chestnuts 370
Ginger Chicken Soup with Fresh Water
Chestnuts and Napa Cabbage 372
Pork Soong in Lettuce Cups 373
Scallop and Water Chestnut Stir-Fry 374
Stir-Fried Water Chestnuts, Sugar Snap Peas,
and Shiitakes 375
YAM 377
Yamaimo Green Onion Pancakes 380
Yam and Sweet Potato Sesame Patties 382
Frituras de Ñame
(Fried Yam Cakes from the Dominican Republic) 383
“Snow” Hot Pot with Mountain Yam 384
Gujarati-Style Stew with Purple Yams 385
YUCA 387
Yuca Chips 389
Yuca Fries with Creamy Cilantro-Lime Dipping Sauce 390
Mashed Yuca 392
Yuca with Tangerine-Serrano Mojo 393
Brazilian Vaca Atolada (Cow Stuck in the Mud) 394
Colombian Chicken Sancocho 396
Coconut Custard Cake with Yuca 397
FOREWORD
GOOD ROOTS ALL THE WAY DOWN
by Deborah Madison
Diane Morgan has written a masterful book about root nourishment or, in this case, its character. It was a peculiar
vegetables, and I’m honored to have been asked to write thing to say, but somehow I knew exactly what she meant.
this foreword for Roots, her truly worthy volume. The A rootless person is lacking in substance, is not firmly
challenge of doing so got me to thinking about roots, not attached or committed, be it to a place, a person, or an
just the ones we cook, which are so thoroughly covered idea. Those who are rootless might skittle across the sur-
in this book, but roots in a more human, less vegetable face of their lives like a tumbleweed whose shallow roots
realm and the vital role they play in both our culinary have lost their grip on the earth come winter. Once you
and our psychological worlds. Curiously, they overlap in start to think about the importance of roots, you see them
some ways. mentioned in all kinds of places, including advertisements.
It’s difficult to imagine the human world without the “We know our roots,” brags the founder of Bob’s Red
idea of roots. What are our roots? To whom and to where Mill, speaking of grains and where they come from.
do we return for our most rooted essence? Do our roots Indeed, a special regard is given to the roots of plants
run deep in a culture, history, or spot on this earth, or are that is not always given to stems and leaves. Plants are
we mere transplants, people who embrace a new place of extolled for their root systems, and the deeper, larger, more
residence and its culture but who aren’t from that locale? complex they are, the more likely they are to impress. Take
The sense of the transplant is keenly felt in the warm the tall prairie grasses of the Great Plains. Wes Jackson,
regions that attract those from the cold climate. New founder of The Land Institute, often brings the root sys-
Mexico has its strong native cultures that you might feel tem of a single plant with him when he gives his talks on
you’ve disrupted by adding your presence. You’re not the perennial crops he is developing in Kansas. The roots
recognized as being from Vermont if your family hasn’t of this grass go over his considerably high shoulder, cas-
lived there for many generations. Those who have deep cade down his back, and trail along the floor, the whole
roots in a place are respected and proud of them, whether thing resembling an intricately woven mantle. It’s easy to
they can trace their people back to the Mayflower or see how roots such as these would knit the soil of the prairie
can claim to be a seventh-generation Californian, New into a rich and stable home. The prairies didn’t blow away
Mexican, New Yorker—it matters not the place, only until those long grass roots were destroyed to make room
the time spent there, preferably measured in generations. for the more shallow-rooted wheat.
We humans have an abiding interest in family trees, and The roots of other plants are small and delicate. They
trees, of course, have roots as well as trunks and branches. spread out and hover near the surface where their chances
Sometimes in life we decide to go back to our roots as a of capturing nourishment are best. Pine trees in the
way of reestablishing ourselves in attitude or approach to Adirondacks may grow tall, but their shallow roots leave
the world. When my Southern husband tasted pork after them vulnerable to high winds and storms. When you
being a vegetarian for twelve years, he definitely went see them fallen, you can scarcely believe those roots were
back to his roots. Culinarily speaking, he was home. able to support such a tall tree for as long as they did. In
He wasn’t a Southerner for nothing. contrast, the roots of other plants, notably those in dry
A literary woman I once worked for had an odd but places, go deep indeed, plunging 50 feet/15 meters into
clearly scathing phrase that she used to describe an the earth. These are strong, well-rooted beings that intend
acquaintance of hers. She would say, “She is very nice, to stay put for a while. It’s hard work to dig up the deep-
but she has no roots all the way down.” All the way down. rooted junipers and salt cedars that dot the Colorado
She must have had the idea of a taproot somewhere in her Plateau, but when one succeeds, water suddenly becomes
mind, a single, strong root that goes down deep to find its available to other plants, which begin to flourish.
10 ROOTS
