Table Of ContentH
The official manual used by the AMGA A O
W
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to teach single pitch rock climbing A FALCON T
O
L C
C L
O GUIDE® Rock Climbing IM
“I’ve been waiting for this book for a long time. Professionalism, programming, B
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pedagogy, anchors . . . this is a comprehensive resource for understanding the S
G E
complexities of teaching in the single pitch environment. Highly recommended!” R
U IE
—Arno Ilgner, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor and author of S
I The AMGA Single Pitch Manual
The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers D
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S
“If you want a thorough treatise on what to expect in the [AMGA SPI] course,
®
as well as a ton of information on climbing gear and its evolution,
this book will fill your needs. Even if you don’t intend to take the course R
and just want to know what are considered best practices by the AMGA,
the answers are here.” o
—Russ Clune, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor and
c
E standard-setting Gunks first ascentionist
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s k
e Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual is intended to serve as a textbook for
n past and future participants of the American Mountain Guide Association’s Single
t C
i
a Pitch Instructor program. The book builds upon Bob Gaines’ book Toproping to more
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g specifically address the needs of the professional climbing instructor and advanced l
e recreational climbers. It presents the most current, internationally recognized i
ar standards for technical climbing systems used in single pitch rock terrain. Included m
f are chapters on effective teaching in the outdoor environment, risk management,
o
r professionalism, and rescue. b
e
v
i
e Bob Gaines has been a professional rock climbing guide since 1983. He is the owner
r n
y of Vertical Adventures Rock Climbing School, voted the top rock climbing school
a in America by Outside magazine. An AMGA Certified Rock Instructor and AMGA g
d
v Single Pitch Instructor Program Provider, he is the author of Best Climbs Joshua Tree
e
National Park, Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, Rappelling, and Toproping, and the
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t coauthor of Climbing Anchors (all FalconGuides). Visit him at verticaladventures.com.
u
r
e Jason D. Martin is a professional guide, writer, and the director of operations at the
:
O American Alpine Institute. He has guided in Red Rock Canyon, Joshua Tree National
u Park, the Cascades, the Sierra, the Alaska Range, Canada’s Coast Range, and the Andes
t of Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. An AMGA Certified Rock Guide and an AMGA Single Pitch
f
i
t Instructor Program Provider, he is also a playwright, film critic, and outdoor adventure
Y
writer. He coauthored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide and authored Fun Climbs Red
o
FALCON
u Rocks: Topropes and Moderates. Visit him at alpineinstitute.com.
r
GUIDES®
M Front cover photo by Bob Gaines
i
n falcon.com
d facebook.com/AMGAUSA
®
@amgausa FalconGuides ®
is an imprint of BoB GAInES AnD
Globe Pequot Press JASon D. MArtIn
H o w t o C l i M B™ S e r i e S
Rock Climbing
The AMGA Single Pitch Manual
Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin
AMGA_i-258_3pp_CS55.indd 1 2/27/14 11:47 AM
FFAALLCCOONNGGUUIIDDEESS®
Copyright © 2014 by Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage
and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the publisher. Requests for per-
mission should be made in writing to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, PO
Box 480, Guilford, CT 06437.
FalconGuides is an imprint of Globe Pequot Press.
Falcon, FalconGuides, and Outfit Your Mind are registered trademarks of Morris Book Publishing, LLC.
Photos: Bob Gaines unless credited otherwise.
Illustrations: Mike Clelland
Text and layout designer: Casey Shain
Project editor: Julie Marsh
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data is on file.
ISBN 978-0-7627-9004-3
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Warning: Climbing is a dangerous sport. You can be seriously
injured or die. Read the following before you use this book.
This is an instruction book about rock climbing, a sport that is inherently
dangerous. Do not depend solely on information from this book for your
personal safety. Your climbing safety depends on your own judgment based
on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of your
climbing ability.
The training advice given in this book is based on the authors’ opin-
ions. Consult your physician before engaging in any part of the training
program described by the authors.
There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that this instruc-
tion book contains accurate and reliable information. There are no warran-
ties as to fitness for a particular purpose or that this book is merchantable.
Your use of this book indicates your assumption of the risk of death or
serious injury as a result of climbing’s risks and is an acknowledgment of
your own sole responsibility for your safety in climbing or in training for
climbing.
Globe Pequot Press, the authors, and the American Mountain Guides
Association (AMGA) assume no liability for accidents happening to, or
injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities described in this
book.
AMGA_i-258_3pp_CS55.indd 3 2/27/14 11:47 AM
Contents
Acknowledgments vii Chapter 4: Pedagogy:
..........................................
The Art of Teaching
Introduction viii
......................................................
About the American Mountain Guides
Learning Styles 17
Association (AMGA) viii ......................................................................
...............................................
Lesson Planning 20
AMGA Certification x ...................................................................
............................................................
Learning from Mistakes 22
Concept Driven Techniques ....................................................
Teachable Moments 23
and the AMGA xii .............................................................
..............................................................
Taking Kids Climbing 24
How to Use This Book xiii .......................................................
...................................................
Teaching Climbing Movement 26
.......................................
Chapter 1: The Role
Chapter 5: Baseline Equipment
of a Climbing Instructor 1
...........................
Harness 28
.....................................................................................
Helmets 31
.....................................................................................
Chapter 2: Professionalism
Ropes 32
..........................................................................................
Knife 44
...........................................................................................
Pre-Program Preparations 3
..................................................
Slings and Webbing 44
.............................................................
At the Instructional Site 4
.....................................................
Cords and Cordelettes 50
.......................................................
Carabiners 52
................................................................................
Chapter 3: Programming The Instructor’s Pack 61
.........................................................
Permitting 7
...................................................................................
Chapter 6: Knots and Hitches
Risk Management and Liability 9
.....................................
Risk Management in the Field 12
.....................................
Loop Knots 62
..............................................................................
Stewardship 14
.............................................................................
Double Loop Knots 72
.............................................................
Instructor Meetings 16
..............................................................
Knots for Webbing 78
................................................................
Bends 80
..........................................................................................
Knots for Joining Two Ropes 83
..........................................
Hitches 85
.......................................................................................
Stopper Knot 101
.......................................................................
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Chapter 7: The Lifeline System—
Protection and Anchoring V Rigging with Instructor Tether 173
........................
The Backside System—
Rock Assessment 102
............................................................... Pre-Equalized Extensions 175
......................................
Natural Anchors 108
................................................................. The Three-in-One System 179
............................................
Passive Protection 112
..............................................................
Active Protection 123
................................................................
Chapter 10: Risk
Fixed Anchors 135
..................................................................... Management at the Crag
Chapter 8: Anchor Systems Rockfall 183
..................................................................................
Terrain Hazards 184
................................................................
Fundamental Anchor Anatomy and Principles ...145 Closing the System ..........................................................184
Notes on Redundancy .....................................................146 Systems Checks .................................................................184
Notes on Load Distribution .........................................148 Falling .....................................................................................185
Vectors .....................................................................................162 Other Considerations ......................................................186
Chapter 9: Advanced Anchor Chapter 11: Top- or Base-Site
Rigging Systems and Institutional Management for a Single Pitch
Anchors
Top-Managed Sites 187
...........................................................
Using a Setup Rope: Components
Base-Managed Sites 190
.........................................................
Far Apart 164
........................................................................ Belaying 192
.................................................................................
Instructor Tether: Managing Risk
Belaying in a Base-Managed Site 196
.............................
at the Cliff’s Edge 165
...................................................... Backup Belayers 199
.................................................................
Extensions: Creating a Master Point
Belaying from the Top 201
.....................................................
Over the Cliff’s Edge 167
............................................... Lowering from a Top-Managed Site 204
.........................
Systems Using a Setup Rope 167
..................................... Lowering with a Munter Hitch 204
..................................
The Joshua Tree System—
Lowering with an Assisted Braking Device 204
.........
V Rigging with Extension Rope 168
........................ Using a Backup When Lowering 205
..............................
Contents v
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Chapter 12: Rappelling Appendix A:
Leave No Trace Ethics 240
.......................................
Teaching Rappelling 208
........................................................
Appendix B:
Student Rappel Belays 208
...................................................
How to Determine a Fall Factor 242
...............
The Instructor Rappel Backup 210
...................................
Managing the Risks— Appendix C:
Avoiding Rappelling Accidents .............................216 Autoblocking Devices ........................................244
Appendix D:
Chapter 13: Basic Assistance Wilderness Medical Certifications 247
.....
and Rescue Skills
Appendix E:
Assistance from the Base ...............................................221 Recommended Reading ...................................248
Assistance from the Top 227
................................................. Appendix F:
Climbing Instructor
Chapter 14: Fixed Lines ..........................231 Employment Resources ...................................249
Index 252
....................................................................................
Chapter 15: Leading
About the Authors 257
...................................................
Student Lead Belay Training 234
.......................................
Ground Anchors, Student Belay
Backups, and Knots 236
...................................................
Descent Options 237
................................................................
Teaching a Student to Lead 237
.........................................
vi Contents
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Acknowledgments
The creation of a book like this is a grand effort Richard Riquleme, Jeremy Wilson, and Betsy Win-
with many parties involved. First, we would ter. We would also like to thank those who gave
like to thank those who assisted the most in this us feedback throughout this process. These include
process: Ron Funderburke and Ed Crothers of the John Belanger, Tom Kirby, Casey O’Brien, and
AMGA, and John Burbidge and Julie Marsh from Dunham Gooding.
Globe Pequot Press. Ed and Ron provided most of Thanks to our fellow guides and mentors who
the technical support for this text from the AMGA, have taught us so much over the years. Jason would
and John and Julie patiently worked to put it all like to specifically thank Michael Powers, Art
together. Special thanks to Casey Shain for the Mooney, Tom Hargis, Marcus Jollif, and Adam Fox.
excellent job on the layout and design. Bob would like to thank Jon Tierney, Alan Jolley,
Thanks to the instructors, guides, and volun- Peter Croft, Scott Cosgrove, Marcus Jollif, Dylan
teers who took time out of their busy schedules to Taylor, Josh Jackson, Chris Baumann, Todd Vogel,
pose for, shoot, and donate photos for this project. Erik Kramer-Webb, Tony Grice, Tony Sartin, Pat
In particular, Bob would like to thank Patty Kline, Dennis, and Dave Mayville. Bob would like to give
Mark O’Brien, Erik Kramer-Webb, Tony Grice, a sincere thanks to John Long for the many insight-
Dave Mayville, Ryan Murphy, Reggie Bulman, ful conversations while working together on the
Kevin Jackson, Bryan Baez, Robin Depke, Ryan Climbing Anchors books.
Bennet, William Jaques, Adam Radford, Wills Young, And finally, we would like to thank our families.
Nicholas Giblin, Chris Idiart, Dan Richter, Frank Jason would like to thank Krista, Holly, and Caden
Bentwood, Terri Condon, David Berlin, Ben Shack- for supporting all of his endeavors. And Bob would
elford, Andrew Jones, Eric Ludwig, Adam Hufford, like to thank his wife, Yvonne, for her help with the
Kris Jackson, Todd Gordon, and Chris Ramirez. photography.
Jason would like to thank Tim Page, James Pierson,
vii
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Introduction
Rock climbing is a sport unlike any other. Hang- Instructors are expected to demonstrate the tech-
ing on by your fingertips, high above the nical and educational proficiencies necessary to
ground, gives us a sense of focus and freedom that instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills
few other activities provide. We love the feeling in a secure and effective manner to both groups and
of the warm sun on our backs while we stick the individuals.
perfect jam or pull the crux move. We relish in our The SPI course is intended for recreational
movement over the stone and the beauty of our climbers who are already proficient in both toprope
surroundings. We love the element of exploration and lead climbing. It was designed to benefit those
that comes with the sport and the anticipation of a who wish to facilitate outdoor climbing programs
trip to a new crag or the ascent of a new route. And for groups such as those offered by guide services,
we adore both the acquaintances that are made on camps, schools, universities, climbing clubs, thera-
the rock as well as the enduring friendships that are peutic groups, churches, and climbing gyms.
built within a climbing partnership. Those who wish to teach climbing in the out-
We love it all so much that we have a desire to doors tend to have a higher success rate obtaining
share it with others. employment as climbing instructors with this train-
And while we wish to share this with others, ing and certification. Additionally, the AMGA rec-
we have to understand that the role of the climb- ommends this program as a precursor to upper-level
ing instructor comes with a great deal of respon- AMGA climbing instruction and guide programs.
sibility. People can get hurt or even killed in this
sport. With that in mind, it’s important that those
About the American Mountain
who wish to teach have the proper training before
Guides Association (AMGA)
instructing any level of climber.
This text was designed to be a supplement to The American Mountain Guides Association is
the American Mountain Guides Association Single the organization that oversees guide and instructor
Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course. The SPI course training in the United States, while also supporting
was designed to help capable recreational climb- and advocating for climbing instructors, guides, and
ers transition into capable and effective climbing accredited guide services. The organization is dedi-
instructors. The course—and this text—focuses on cated to supporting these groups through excel-
the technical skills required of an instructor as they lence in instructor and guide education, through
are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing the development of standards to ensure the quality
instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses of services provided to the public, and by serving
the essential educational and environmental tenets as a resource for access to and the protection of
required to teach climbing. AMGA Single Pitch the natural environment. As a group, the AMGA
viii
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AMGA presidents at the 2010 AMGA annual meeting. Back row, from left to right: Alan Pietrasanta,
Ian Wade, John Cleary, Mark Houston, Dunham Gooding, Phil Powers, Dick Jackson, and John
Bicknell. Front row, kneeling: Margaret Wheeler and Doug Robinson.
Betsy Winter
presents a strong and unified voice for high stan- A Brief History of the AMGA
dards of professionalism in guiding and climbing
The profession of instructing and guiding in the
instruction.
mountains spans back to the start of the United
The AMGA is grounded in a powerful tradition
States as a nation. However, it wasn’t until 1979 that
that continues to evolve with the ever-changing
a group of twelve guides got together in Jackson,
arena of mountain guiding and climbing instruc-
Wyoming, and decided that it was time to formal-
tion. The organization offers a series of training
ize an organization to represent the greater guid-
courses and exams designed to certify guides and
ing community. The goals these guides developed
climbing instructors to highly respected and inter-
were written in a bar on the back of a napkin and
nationally recognized standards.
became known as the Moose Bar Charter. As a
Introducti o n iixx
AMGA_i-258_3pp_CS55.indd 9 2/27/14 11:48 AM
