Riding Costume in Egypt: Origin and Appearance (Studies in Textile and Costume History, 3)

390 Pages·2003·31.41 MB·English

by  Cacilia Fluck

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RIDING COSTUME IN EGYPT
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STUDIES IN TEXTILE
AND
COSTUME HISTORY
edited by
GILLIAN VOGELSANG-EASTWOOD
VOLUME 3
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RIDING COSTUME IN EGYPT
Origin and Appearance
EDITED BY
CÄCILIA FLUCK
AND
GILLIAN VOGELSANG-EASTWOOD
BRILL
LEIDEN (cid:127)BOSTON
2004
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Illustration on the cover:Sassaman style embroidery with the design of a man on horseback
(Acc. no. LB 10, 9). Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Riding costume in Egypt : origin and appearance / edited by Cäcilia Fluck and Gillian Vogelsang-
Eastwood.
p. cm. — (Studies in textile and costume history ; v. 3)
Papers presented at a symposium.
Includes bibliographical references (p. ) and index.
Papers in English, French, and German.
ISBN 90-04-13163-9 (alk. paper)
1. Horsemen and horsewomen—Egypt—Costume. 2. Riding habit—Egypt. 3.
Horsemanship—Egypt—Equipment and supplies. I. Fluck, Cäcilia. II.
Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. III. Series.
GT5889.E3R53 2003
391.4’0962—dc22
2003055855
ISSN 0924–7695
ISBN 90 04 13163 9
© Copyright 2004 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written
permission from the publisher.
Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal
use is granted by Brill provided that
the appropriate fees are paid directly to The Copyright
Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Suite 910
Danvers, MA 01923, USA.
Fees are subject to change.
printed in the netherlands
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CONTENTS
Abbreviations .............................................................................. vii
Preface ........................................................................................ xi
Introduction ................................................................................ 1
I. Historical Context
A Quest for the Origin of the Persian Riding-Coats:
Sleeved Garments with Underarm Openings .......................... 7
Elfriede R. Knauer
The Sasanians and Egypt: A Short Introduction .................. 29
Willem Vogelsang
II. Researches on the Find Spot Antinoopolis
L’apport historique des découvertes d’Antinoé au costume
dit de „cavalier sassanide“ ........................................................ 37
Florence Calament
Dons et legs Doresse et Pfister en Belgique et au Vatican:
Quelques documents relatifs à Antinoé .................................... 73
Marguerite Rassart-Debergh
III. Researches on the Original Costumes from the
Graves of Antinoopolis
Présentation d’un ensemble trouvé à Antinoé, rapporté par
Albert Gayet en 1897–98 .......................................................... 109
Marie Schoefer
Les tissus „sassanides“ d’Antinoé au musée du Louvre ........ 117
Dominique Bénazeth
A Green Riding Coat Fragment in the Henry Art Gallery,
Seattle .......................................................................................... 129
Nancy A. Hoskins
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Zwei Reitermäntel aus Antinoopolis im Museum für
Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin. Fundkontext und
Beschreibung .............................................................................. 137
Cäcilia Fluck
Gaiters from Antinoopolis in the Museum für Byzantinische
Kunst, Berlin .............................................................................. 153
Petra Linscheid
Technische Analyse der Berliner Reitermäntel und
Beinlinge ...................................................................................... 163
Kathrin Mälck
Farbstoffanalyse an der Berliner Reitertracht .......................... 175
Achim Unger
Radiocarbon Dating of two Sasanian Coats and
Three Post-Sasanian Tapestries ................................................ 181
Antoine De Moor, Mark Van Strydonck and Chris Verhecken-Lammens
Fussbekleidung der Reitertracht aus Antinoopolis im
Überblick .................................................................................... 189
Dominique Bénazeth and Cäcilia Fluck
IV. Representations on Monuments of Arts
Sasanian ‘Riding-Coats’: The Iranian Evidence ...................... 209
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood
Reiterkostüme auf koptischen Textilien .................................... 231
Karl-Heinz Brune
Clothing Fit for a Divine Rider: Heron’s Military Costume
in Wall-Paintings from Roman-period Karanis ...................... 259
Thelma K. Thomas
Index of Names .......................................................................... 269
Index of Places .......................................................................... 272
Index of Costume and Textile Terms .................................... 275
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ABBREVIATIONS
This list contains general abbreviations and abbreviated literature
not deciphered in the bibliographies.
Abb. Abbildung
AC après Christ
acc. accession
AD Anno Domini
Anm. Anmerkung
Aktennr. Aktennummer
BC before Christ
Bd. Boulevard
bes. besonders
BSAC Bulletin de la Société d’Archéologie Copte
bzw. beziehungsweise
CAT./cat. catalogue
CIETA (Bulletin de liaison du) Centre International
d’Études des Textiles Anciens
c., ca. circa
cf. confer
col. colour
CRAI Comptes rendus de l’Académie des Inscriptions
et Belles-lettres
d. Ä. der Ältere
DOP Dumbarton Oaks Papers
ed., edd., éd., édd. editor(s), éditeur(s)
e.g. exempli gratia
esp. especially
et al. et alii
etc. et cetera
Fa. Firma
i.e. id est
fig., figs. figure(s)
fol. folium
griech. griechisch
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Herodot, Hist. Herodot, Historiae
hl. heilig
IFROA Institut de formation des restaurateurs d’œuvres d’art
Inv., inv. Inventar, inventory, inventaire
JARCE Journal of the American Research Center in Egypt
Kat. Katalog
KIK/IRPA Koninklijk Instituut voor het Kunstpatrimonium/
Institut Royal du Patrimoine Artistique
lat. lateinisch
LIMC Lexicon iconographicum mythologiae classicae
M. Monsieur
Mgr. Monseigneur
MHTL Musée historique des tissus, Lyon
ML Musée du Louvre, Paris
Mlle. Mademoiselle
MM Monsieurs
MMA Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
ms. manuscript
Mt. Matthäus
n. note
n. Chr. nach Christus
no., nos. number, numbers, numéro(s)
Nr., Nrn. Nummer(n)
o. J. ohne Jahr
p. page
pl., pls. plate(s), planche(s)
r. reign
RAC Reallexikon für Antike und Christentum
S. Seite
SFIIC Section française de l’Institut international de con-
servation
SMB Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische
Kunst, Berlin
sog. sogenannt
sp. spécialement
Sp. Spalte
s. v. sub voce
Tab. Tabelle
Taf. Tafel
u. a. unter anderem
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 ix
v. verso
v. Chr. vor Christus
vgl. vergleiche
Verf. Verfasser/in
Xenophon, Hell. Xenophon, Hellenika
Xenophon, Cyrop. Xenophon, Cyropaedia
z. B. zum Beispiel