Table Of ContentRETURN TO ALEXANDRIA
PUBLICATIONS OF THE
INSTITUTE OF ARCHAEOLOGY, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE LONDON
Director of the Institute: Stephen Shennan
Founding Series Editor: Peter J. Ucko
The Institute of Archaeology of University College London is one of the oldest, largest, and most 
prestigious archaeology research facilities in the world. Its extensive publications programme 
includes the best theory, research, pedagogy, and reference materials in archaeology and cognate 
disciplines, through publishing exemplary work of scholars worldwide. Through its publications, 
the Institute brings together key areas of theoretical and substantive knowledge, improves 
archaeological practice, and brings archaeological findings to the general public, researchers, and 
practitioners. It also publishes staff research projects, site and survey reports, and conference 
proceedings. The publications programme, formerly developed inhouse or in conjunction with 
UCL Press, is now produced in partnership with Left Coast Press, Inc. The Institute can be 
accessed online at www.ucl.ac.uk/archaeology.
ENCOUNTERS WITH ANCIENT EGYPT Subseries, Peter J. Ucko, (ed.)
Jean-Marcel Humbert and Clifford Price (eds.), Imhotep Today 
David Jeffreys (ed.), Views of Ancient Egypt since Napoleon Bonaparte 
Sally MacDonald and Michael Rice (eds.), Consuming Ancient Egypt
Roger Matthews and Cornelia Roemer (eds.), Ancient Perspectives on Egypt 
David O’Connor and Andrew Reid (eds.), Ancient Egypt in Africa 
John Tait (ed.), ‘Never had the like occurred’
David O’Connor and Stephen Quirke (eds.), Mysterious Lands
Peter Ucko and Timothy Champion (eds.), The Wisdom of Egypt
CRITICAL PERSPECTIVES ON CULTURAL HERITAGE Subseries, Beverley Butler (ed.)
Beverley Butler, Return to Alexandria
Ferdinand de Jong and Michael Rowlands (eds.), Reclaiming Heritage
Dean Sully (ed.), Decolonizing Conservation
OTHER TITLES
Andrew Gardner (ed.), Agency Uncovered
Okasha El-Daly, Egyptology, The Missing Millennium
Ruth Mace, Clare J. Holden, and Stephen Shennan (eds.), Evolution of Cultural Diversity 
Arkadiusz Marciniak, Placing Animals in the Neolithic
Robert Layton, Stephen Shennan, and Peter Stone (eds.), A Future for Archaeology 
Joost Fontein, The Silence of Great Zimbabwe
Gabriele Puschnigg, Ceramics of the Merv Oasis
James Graham-Campbell and Gareth Williams (eds.), Silver Economy in the Viking Age 
Barbara Bender, Sue Hamilton, and Chris Tilley, Stone World
Andrew Gardner, An Archaeology of Identity
Sue Hamilton, Ruth Whitehouse, and Katherine I. Wright (eds.), Archaeology and Women
Gustavo Politis, Nukak
Sue Colledge and James Conolly (eds.), The Origins and Spread of Domestic Plants in Southwest 
Asia and Europe 
Timothy Clack and Marcus Brittain (eds.), Archaeology and the Media 
Janet Picton, Stephen Quirke, and Paul C. Roberts (eds.), Living Images
Tony Waldron, Paleoepidemiology
Eleni Asouti and Dorian Q. Fuller, Trees and Woodlands of South India
Russell McDougall and Iain Davidson (eds.), The Roth Family, Anthropology, and Colonial 
Administration 
Elizabeth Pye (ed.), The Power of Touch
John Tait, Why the Egyptians Wrote Books
RETURN TO ALEXANDRIA
An Ethnography of Cultural Heritage, 
Revivalism, and Museum Memory
Beverley Butler
Walnut Creek, California
LEFT COAST PRESS, INC.
1630 North Main Street, #400
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
http://www.LCoastPress.com
Copyright © 2007 by Left Coast Press, Inc. 
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval 
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, 
photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the 
publisher.
ISBN 978-1-59874-190-2 hardcover
ISBN 978-1-59874-191-9 paperback
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: 
Butler, Beverley.
Return to Alexandria : an ethnography of cultural heritage, revivalism, and museum 
memory / Beverley Butler.
    p. cm. — (Publications of the Institute of Archaeology, University College, 
London) (Critical perspectives on cultural heritage)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
  ISBN-13: 978-1-59874-190-2 (alk. paper)
  ISBN-13: 978-1-59874-191-9 (pbk. : alk. paper)
1. Aliksandrina (Library)—History. 2. Alexandria (Egypt)—Antiquities. 3. Revival 
movements (Art)—Egypt—Alexandria. 4. Library architecture—Egypt—Alexandria. 
5. Egypt—Cultural policy. 6. Cultural property—Protection—Case studies. 
7. Museum techniques—Case studies. 8. East and West—Case studies. 9. North and 
south—Case studies. 10. Postcolonialism—Case studies. I. Title.
  Z722.5.B88 2007      069.0932—dc22      2007027643
Printed in the United States of America
∞™ The paper used in this publication meets the
minimum requirements of American 
National Standard for Information
Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed
Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48–1992.
07 08 09 10 11  5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Illustrations  7 
Series Editor’s Preface  11
Acknowledgments  13
Introduction
Preludes – Founding Myth and Archive  15
Chapter 1
The ‘Alexandria Project’ in the Western Imagination  31
Chapter 2
‘On The Ruins’: Postcolonial Heritage Metamorphosis  63
Chapter 3
Contemporary Return to Alexandria: International Sacred Dramas  93
Chapter 4
‘Revivalism between Worlds’: UNESCO and GOAL   123 
Chapter 5
‘Meltdown’: Revivalism’s ‘Time of Anxiety’  157
Chapter 6
‘Spirit of Aspiration’: Archaeological Revivalism and Recuperation  189
Chapter 7
Urban Shock Therapy: Alexandria’s ‘Las Vegasisation’  213
Conclusion
‘Windows onto Contemporary Worlds’  241
Bibliography  279
Index  293
About the Author  299
6 Return to Alexandria
List of Illustrations
 1.  ‘Fourth Pyramid’: Ariel view of Bibliotheca Alexandrina  19
 2.  ‘Wonder of the Modern World’: Night view of Bibliotheca 
Alexandrina showing the ‘striped blue and black sphere’ 
housing a planetarium  20
 3.  Reemergent Heritage in Alexandria’s Eastern Harbour: 
Object lifted by archaeologists at the Qait Bey/Pharos site. 
The object is one of a number of 60-ton blocks surrounding 
the ancient lighthouse’s entrance. In the background is 
Qait Bey Fort, built in 1477 on the site of the ancient 
lighthouse.  22
 4.  Past in the Present, Royal Palace site, Alexandria’s Eastern 
Harbour: A diver is locating the exact position of a Sphinx, 
supposed to represent Cleopatra’s father, Ptolemy XII, with a 
differential underwater GPS.  22
 5.  Revivalism As ‘Heritigification’: Line drawing of Alexandria’s 
Eastern Harbour showing the proximity of the Bibliotheca 
Alexandrina to the archaeological missions  23
 6.  Plato’s Obelisk, Old Heliopolis, Ain Shams and Al-Matariyah 
Districts, Cairo  68
 7.  Mary’s Tree, Old Heliopolis, Ain Shams and Al-Matariyah 
Districts, Cairo  69
 8.  Contemporary Return: Overall view of the Eastern Harbour and 
downtown Alexandria. In the foreground is Fort Qait Bey. The 
corniche curves along the Royal Palace’s site 
and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina site.  94
 9.  Sacred Dramas, Members of International Committee, 
Aswan Meeting 1990: The Snohetta-designed model of the 
Bibliotheca Alexandria takes centre-stage.  102
10.  Ritual Chorus, Members of International Committee, Aswan 
Meeting 1990: Again, the Snohetta-designed model of the 
Bibliotheca Alexandria is centre-stage.  102
11.  Signing Their Support: Aswan Declaration, showing Signatures 
of International Committee, Aswan Meeting 1990  106
12.  Object of Aspiration: Snohetta-designed model of Bibliotheca 
Alexandrina  107
13.  Future Shock: Snohetta-designed model like that displayed in 
GOAL offices under perspex.  126
14.  ‘Layers of Time’: Close-up of Snohetta-designed model showing 
exterior wall with ‘universal’ scripts  128
15.  Materialisation on the Ruins: Early construction phase, preparing 
the foundations at the Bibliotheca Alexandrina site  133
16.  Emergence of Technological Object: Later construction 
phase – Mohammed el Qot directing work on exterior roof 
of Bibliotheca Alexandrina  134
17.  GOAL Logo: Merges the ‘old’ motif-icon of the ancient 
lighthouse with the ‘new’ Alexandrina’s futuristic architecture  136
18.  Universal Visions: UNESCO Paris headquarters with view 
of Eiffel Tower  142
19.  Picture Perfect: Snohetta-designed Model of Bibliotheca
Alexandrina on black background as seen in GOAL Alexandria 
and UNESCO Paris offices  143
20.  Vantage Point on Revivalism: The Greco-Roman Museum, 
downtown Alexandria  159
21.  Object of Speculation: Building work taking place on Bibliotheca 
site with adjacent maternity and children’s hospital  178
22.  At a depth of only 7 meters, a diver from archeologist Jean-Yves 
Empereur’s team comes face to face with a 2-ton sphinx whose 
cartouche was erased at the time of Pharaoh Ramses II 
(1300–1235 BCE).  192
23.  The statue of an Isis priest holding an Osiris-jar found on the 
sunken Island of Antirhodos in the great harbour of Alexandria. 
The statue from black granite is 1.22 meters high.  193
24.  Return of the Gods: The colossal statue of King Ptolemy takes 
part in a procession at the Eastern Port of Alexandria before 
being placed in a desalination tank for six months.  210
25.  Civic Heritage: Governorate headquarters, downtown 
Alexandria  216
26.  ‘Las Vegasisation’: A ‘Greek’ vase sculpture sponsored by local 
Alexandrian businesses  221
27.  ‘Greek Gift’, statue of Alexander the Great, 
downtown Alexandria  230
28.  ‘Vox Pop Backdrop’: New mosaic featuring Alexander the 
Great, downtown Alexandria  234
29.  ‘World of Mixture’: Posters of the Spice Girls and Mecca 
for sale, downtown Alexandria  235
30.  Migrant Heritage: Mr Nubia Nubia and family, originally 
from Nubia, in their shop, which sells souvenirs, notably 
amulets, from Nubia. The shop is situated near the 
Bibliotheca Alexandrina.  236
31.  Mr Nubia Nubia’s shop also displays photographs of 
Presidents Nasser and Sadat.  237
32.  Journey’s End: Rainbow arches over the Bibliotheca Alexandrina  242
33.  Statue of Demetrius of Phaleron: Front entrance Bibliotheca 
Alexandrina  244
34.  ‘Fire-works’: Inauguration celebrations  248
35.  ‘Meeting ground’: Plaza of Civilisation  249
36.  Entente with Images: Awad Collection, housed within 
Bibliotheca Alexandrina  250
37.  Entente with Artefacts: The colossal statue of King Ptolemy, 
measuring over 13 meters high and weighing over 20 tons, 
discovered by archaeologists at the Qait Bey site, is repositioned 
at the entrance of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.  251
38.  Antiquities Museum: Within Bibliotheca Alexandrina 
museum complex  269
Description:The Bibliotheca Alexandrina was launched with great fanfare in the 1990s, a project of UNESCO and the Egyptian government to recreate the glory of the Alexandria Library and Museion of the ancient world. The project and its timing were curiousit coincided with scholarship moving away from the domi