(Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style: Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts

321 Pages·2021·9.126 MB·English

by  Viola Thimm

NEW DIRECTIONS IN ISLAM
(Re-)Claiming Bodies
Through
Fashion and Style
Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts
Edited by
Viola Thimm
New Directions in Islam
Series Editors
Joshua M. Roose, Faculty of Arts and Education, Deakin
University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Bryan S. Turner, Australian Catholic University and The
Graduate Centre, City University of New York, New York,
NY, USA
TheNewDirectionsinIslam serieswillpromotecreativewaysofconcep-
tualizing the practice of Islam in new, challenging contexts and present
innovative and provocative interdisciplinary studies examining intel-
lectual, political, legal, economic, and demographic trajectories within
Islam.
Although recognised as the world’s fastest growing religion, many
Muslims now live in secular societies where Islam is a minority religion
and where there is considerable social conflict between Muslim commu-
nitiesandthewidersociety.Thereforeitisvitaltoengagewiththemulti-
tude of ways by which Muslims are adapting and evolving as social and
cultural minorities.
How are they developing their faith in line with local and national
customs?Howareconvertsandsubsequentgenerationsadaptinginthese
challenging contexts?This series moves beyond dichotomies about radi-
calism, citizenship, and loyalty evident in the proliferation of descrip-
tive and repetitive studies of Islamophobia and Orientalism, which have
become both negative and predictable. Rather, contrary to the percep-
tion of Muslims as victims of secular modernity, we are interested in
‘success stories’ of Muslims adapting in and contributing to society at
local, national and even transnational levels, such as the case of Muslim
middleclassesinCanada,theUnitedStates,SouthAfrica,andArgentina.
This series will go beyond the geographic boundaries of the Middle
East to examine Islam from a global perspective in vastly different
contexts from Brazil toVietnam and Austria to Papua New Guinea.
More information about this series at
http://www.palgrave.com/gp/series/14746
Viola Thimm
Editor
(Re-)Claiming Bodies
Through Fashion
and Style
Gendered Configurations in Muslim
Contexts
Editor
ViolaThimm
University of Heidelberg
Heidelberg, Germany
New Directions in Islam
ISBN 978-3-030-71940-1 ISBN 978-3-030-71941-8 (eBook)
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-71941-8
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Contents
Introduction: (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion
and Style—Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts 1
ViolaThimm
Modesty and Fashion: Reconfiguring Social Conditions
and Identifications
Beauty East, BeautyWest: Muslim Beauty in Indonesian
Islamic Magazines 21
Diah Ariani Arimbi
“Your LifeWould BeTwice as Easy IfYou Didn’tWear It,
It’s Like a Superhero’s Responsibility.” Clothing Practices
ofYoung MuslimWomen in Germany as Sites of Agency
and Resistance 41
Sabine Damir-Geilsdorf andYasmina Shamdin
“How I Wear My Headscarf.” Narratives About Dress
and Styling fromYoung MuslimWomen in Copenhagen 65
Gülzar Demir, Marie-Louise Nosch, and Else Skjold
v
vi Contents
Trending Muslim Appeal and the Discourse
on Intersectional Diversity 89
Laura Haddad
Men’s Non-Fashion: Embodying Authority in the Gulf 109
ViolaThimm
Normative Orders, Subjectivation and Counteractive
Practices
The Halal Nail Polish: Religion and Body Politics
in the Marketplace 129
Özlem Sandıkcı
Hijab as Migration: Embracing and Leaving Hijab
in Contemporary Indonesia 151
Yulianingsih Riswan
After the Hijab: Liminal States of Post-veiling
Embodiment 173
Alicia Izharuddin
High Heels and Rainbow Hijab 191
Nancy Pathak
Materiality, Political Discourses, and Power
The Fabric of Diasporic Designs:Wearing Punjabi Suits
Home and Away Among South AsianWomen in Europe 215
Sara Bonfanti
Materiality, the Malahfa (MauritanianVeil), and Social
.
Hierarchy 241
Katherine AnnWiley
More Than a Garment: The haïk in Algeria as a Means
of Embodied Artistic Expression 265
Isabella Schwaderer
Contents vii
Toward a Self-Empowered Female Body: Body Language,
Tactility, and Materiality in Contemporary Art 287
Rhea Maria DehnTutosaus
Index 315
Notes on Contributors
Diah Ariani Arimbi is currently teaching gender and cultural studies
at Universitas Airlangga in Surabaya, Indonesia. She received her Ph.D.
fromTheUniversityofNewSouthWales,Australia.Hermainresearchis
about the intersection between women and Islam in Indonesia. She also
researcheswomenandtheiridentitiesinIndonesia:beitinliterarynarra-
tivesorpopularculture.HerinterestsincludeIslamicfeminisms,Indone-
sianwomeninpost-colonialIndonesia,whilehercurrentresearchescover
images of women and the conception of beauty in magazines, and the
ways women are portrayed in popular culture.
Sara Bonfanti is a Research Fellow at the Department of Sociology
and Social Research, University of Trento (Italy). Dr. Bonfanti is a
social anthropologist, specialized in gender studies, with expertise on
South Asian diasporas and multisite ethnography. Keen on participa-
tory methods, her research interests include kinship, religious pluralism,
andmediacultures,approachedthroughintersectionalityandlifestories.
Since2017shehascollaboratedwithinthecomparativeERCHOMInG
Project homing.soc.unitn.it, exploring the home-migration nexus across
ix
x Notes on Contributors
Europeancities.Herlatestbook“ShiftingRoofs:EthnographiesofHome
and Mobility” was published by Routledge in 2020.
Sabine Damir-Geilsdorf isaProfessorofMiddleEasternStudiesatthe
University of Cologne, Germany. She obtained her Ph.D. in Islamic
Studies from the University of Gießen with a thesis on the Egyptian
IslamistSayyidQutb(1906–1966)andreceivedherpostdoctoralqualifi-
cation(Habilitation)fromtheUniversityofBonnwithastudyonPales-
tiniannarrativesoftheArab-Israeliwar1948.Hermainresearchinterests
include transformations of religious concepts, everyday religious prac-
tices, (forced) migration, and popular culture. She has carried out field
research in various countries in the Middle East.
Rhea Maria DehnTutosaus isaPh.D.studentandresearchassistantin
art history at the Department of Fashion and Aesthetics at theTechnical
University of Darmstadt. She earned her BA in art history and romance
studies and her MA in art history from the Goethe University Frankfurt
amMainandtheUniversitatdeBarcelona.Herresearchfocusesonpost-
colonial theory, transculturality and visual representation, and intersec-
tions with migration and gender in contemporary art. Her publications
include “Der Schleier: Nexus zwischen Kunst und Mode” (Contempo-
raryMuslimFashionsed.byMahretIfeonaKupkaandMatthiasWagner
K., MAK Frankfurt a.M. 2019).
Gülzar Demir is a Master’s in Spanish and History from UCPH. She
works as a research assistant for the Danish partners in the Creative
Europeproject,TheFabricofMyLife.Sheteachespodcastingandsuper-
visesthecollectionofpodcastonemotionsandclothing.Forthischapter,
GülzarDemirconductedinterviewsinCopenhagenin2020aboutdress
practicesandchoices,andshedesignedandsupervisedtheonlinesurvey.
Laura Haddad is a Research Fellow at the Institute for Social Geog-
raphy and Member of the Institute for Migration Research and Inter-
cultural Studies (IMIS) at Osnabrück University, Germany. She is a
member of the IMISCOE Standing Committee DIVCULT (Super-
diversity, Migration and Cultural Change) and the Global Decenter
(GDC).