Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment With Recipes

310 Pages·1996·1.5 MB·English

by  Andrew F. Smith

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title : Pure Ketchup : A History of America's National
Condiment With Recipes
author : Smith, Andrew F.
publisher : University of South Carolina Press
isbn10 | asin : 1570031398
print isbn13 : 9781570031397
ebook isbn13 : 9780585337340
language : English
subject Cookery (Ketchup) , Ketchup.
publication date : 1996
lcc : TX819.K48S63 1996eb
ddc : 641/.814
subject : Cookery (Ketchup) , Ketchup.
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Page iii
Pure Ketchup
A History of America's National Condiment with Recipes
Andrew F. Smith

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Page iv
Copyright © 1996 University of South Carolina
Published in Columbia, South Carolina, by the University of South Carolina Press
Manufactured in the United States of America
00 99 98 97 96 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Smith, Andrew F., 1946-
Pure ketchup : a history of America's national condiment, with
recipes / Andrew F. Smith.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 1-57003-139-8 (cloth)
1. Cookery (Ketchup) 2. Ketchup. I. Title.
TX819.K48S63 1996
641'.814dc20 96-25916
The material contained in this book is being published solely because of its historical interest and is not intended as a
source of recipes for the modern reader or of medical information or advice. Neither author nor publisher assumes
any responsibility for the reader's application of the material contained herein.

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Page v
This book is dedicated to Michael Joseph Beiser,
a friend and colleague,
whose support and assistance encouraged me to finish this work,
and to all others living with AIDS.

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Page vii
Contents
Preface xi
Part I: History
Chapter 1: Introducing Ketchup and Its Polyglot Parentage 3
4
Origins
6
Catchup, Catsup, or Ketchup?
6
The British
Chapter 2: The Rise and Demise of Homemade Ketchup 12
14
Mushroom, Fish and Seafood, and Walnut Ketchups
16
Pickles, Sauces, and Ketchups
17
Ketchup in Eighteenth-Century America
18
The Rise of Tomato Ketchup
19
Ketchup in Nineteenth-Century Britain and America
23
Reasons for Ketchup's Initial Success
25
Ketchup Commonalities
26
Homemade Ketchup's High-water Mark
27
The Fall of Homemade Ketchup
Chapter 3: The Commercialization of Ketchup 33
34
Early Tomato Ketchup Manufacturing
36
The Rapid Expansion of Commercial Ketchup
45
Manufacturing Ketchup at the Turn of the Century
47
Commercial Nontomato Ketchups
50
America's National Condiment
Chapter 4: The Quest for Pure Ketchup 59
60
Ketchup's Afflictions
67
Passage of the National Pure Food and Drugs Act
69
Ketchup Standards and Enforcement Efforts

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Page viii
Chapter 5: The Benzoate War 77
78
Wiley Opposes Benzoates
80
Ketchup Experiments
83
The Antibenzoite Lobby
90
Probenzoite Forces Strike
95
Heinz Strikes Back
97
The Referee Board Decides
98
Antibenzoite Forces Strike Back
105
The Denver Convention
108
The Fight against Benzoates in Indiana
109
Victors and Vanquished
Chapter 6: Ketchup Revolutions 119
121
Consolidation in the Ketchup Industry
122
The Agricultural Revolution
123
Ketchup Races
126
Ketchup Manufacturing in the Twentieth Century
129
The Content Revolution
131
Bottling and Packaging Revolutions
Chapter 7: Ketchup Today and Tomorrow 135
136
What Is a Good Ketchup?
138
Why Is Ketchup So Popular?
139
Ketchup as a Vegetable
140
The Return of Homemade Ketchup
141
Designer Ketchups
142
The Salsa Challenge
143
A Business of Global Significance
Part II: Historical Ketchup Recipes
A Note on the Recipes 149
151
1. Anchovy Ketchup
152
2. Apple Ketchup
152
3. Apricot Ketchup
153
4. Barberry Ketchup
153
5. Blackberry Ketchup

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Page ix
153
6. Camp Ketchup
154
7. Catsup Cream Dressing
154
8. Cherry Ketchup
155
9. Cockle Ketchup
155
10. Cold Ketchup
156
11. Compound or Cook's Ketchup
156
12. Cranberry Ketchup
156
13. Creole Ketchup
157
14. Cucumber Ketchup
158
15. Currant Ketchup
159
16. Damson Ketchup
159
17. Elderberry Ketchup
160
18. English Ketchup
161
19. Gooseberry Ketchup
162
20. Grape Ketchup
163
21. Herring Ketchup
163
22. Ketchup for Mutton
163
23. Ketchup to Keep Seven Years
164
24. Ketchup to Keep Twenty Years
164
25. Kidney Bean Ketchup
165
26. Lemon Ketchup
165
27. Liver Ketchup
167
28. Lobster Ketchup
168
29. Mum (or Old Beer) Ketchup
168
30. Mushroom Ketchup
175
31. Mussel Ketchup
175
32. Oyster Ketchup
177
33. Peach Ketchup
178
34. Pepper Ketchup
179
35. Pimento Ketchup
179
36. Plum Ketchup
181
37. Pudding Ketchup
180
38. Raspberry Ketchup
181
39. Rum Ketchup

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