Product safety and restricted substances in apparel

201 Pages·2013·5.39 MB·English

by  Subrata Das

(cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:7)(cid:13)
(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:4)
(cid:2)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:4)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:16)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:15)(cid:14)(cid:8)(cid:10)(cid:17)(cid:17)(cid:10)(cid:2)(cid:12)(cid:18)

(cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:7)(cid:13)
(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:4)
(cid:2)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:4)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:16)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:15)(cid:14)(cid:8)(cid:10)(cid:17)(cid:17)(cid:10)(cid:2)(cid:12)(cid:18)
Subrata Das
W
OODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD
New Delhi ● Cambridge ● Oxford ● Philadelphia
Published by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 303, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road,
Daryaganj, New Delhi - 110002, India
www.woodheadpublishingindia.com
Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge,
CB22 3HJ UK
Woodhead Publishing USA 1518 Walnut Street, Suite1100, Philadelphia
www.woodheadpublishing.com
First published 2013, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 2013
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission. Reasonable efforts have
been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the
publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither
the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication,
shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or
alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
The consent of Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. does not extend to
copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for
resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead
Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. for such copying.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered
trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent
to infringe.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. ISBN: 978-93-80308-28-9
Woodhead Publishing Ltd. ISBN: 978-0-85709-824-5
Woodhead Publishing Ltd. e-ISBN: 978-0-85709-837-5
Typeset by Sunshine Graphics, New Delhi
Printed and bound by Raj Press, New Delhi
(cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:6)
Foreword ix
Preface xi
(cid:7)(cid:8) (cid:9)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:2)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:2)(cid:3) (cid:7)
1.1 Safety requirements of apparel 1
1.2 Sources of restricted substances in apparel 2
1.3 Evaluation of restricted substances 2
1.4 Legal requirements of harmful substances 4
1.5 Product compliance for environmental protection 4
References 5
(cid:15)(cid:8) (cid:16)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:17)(cid:18)(cid:5)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:20)(cid:2)(cid:21)(cid:20)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:20)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:22)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:20)(cid:14)(cid:3)(cid:20)(cid:4)(cid:23)(cid:5) (cid:24)
(cid:17)(cid:25)(cid:25)(cid:17)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:20)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:25)(cid:25)(cid:26)(cid:27)(cid:20)(cid:13)(cid:23)(cid:17)(cid:14)(cid:3)
2.1 Purpose and importance of restricted substances list 7
2.2 Risk associated with restricted substances 8
2.3 Education of the supply chain 9
2.4 Importance of evaluation through testing 10
2.5 Implementation procedure of a RSL program 11
References 12
(cid:28)(cid:8) (cid:29)(cid:5)(cid:30)(cid:14)(cid:5)(cid:31)(cid:20)(cid:2)(cid:21)(cid:20)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:20)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:22)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:20)(cid:14)(cid:3)(cid:20)(cid:17)(cid:25)(cid:25)(cid:17)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:26) (cid:7)
3.1 Introduction 14
3.2 Restricted substances in fabric 15
3.3 Restricted substances in trim 23
3.4 Restricted substances in embellishments 25
3.5 Restricted substances in apparel 26
References 26
(cid:8) (cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:19)(cid:25)(cid:26)(cid:14)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:2)(cid:21)(cid:20)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:14)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:20)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:22)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:20)(cid:14)(cid:3)(cid:20)(cid:6)(cid:17)(cid:21)(cid:5)(cid:4)(cid:27) (cid:15)!
(cid:17)(cid:6)(cid:25)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:20)(cid:2)(cid:21)(cid:20)(cid:17)(cid:25)(cid:25)(cid:17)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:26)
4.1 Introduction 29
4.2 Banned amines in azo dyes 30
(cid:25)(cid:17) (cid:26)(cid:5)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:11)
4.3 Allergenic disperse dyes 30
4.4 Carcinogenic dyes 33
4.5 Formaldehyde 33
4.6 Heavy metals 35
4.7 Pentachlorophenol, tetrachlorophenol and orthophenylphenol 36
4.8 Organotin compounds 37
4.9 Chlorinated organic carriers 37
4.10 Fluorocarbons 38
4.11 Phthalates 39
4.12 Polyvinyl chloride 40
4.13 Alkyl phenol ethoxylates 40
4.14 Flame retardants 41
4.15 Polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) 41
4.16 Solvents 42
4.17 Dioxins and furans 42
4.18 Residual pesticides 44
4.19 Chlorinated paraffins 45
4.20 Dimethyl Fumerate (DMFu) 45
4.21 Isocyanates 47
4.22 Asbestos 47
4.23 Adsorbable organic halides (AOX) 48
References 50
(cid:1)(cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:10)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:18)(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:8)(cid:20)(cid:17)(cid:21)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:22)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:12)(cid:23)(cid:23)(cid:12)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:21) (cid:1)(cid:24)
5.1 Importance of safety issues 54
5.2 Small parts – choking hazards 55
5.3 Metal fasteners 56
5.4 Zipper fasteners 56
5.5 Dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders 58
5.6 D-rings 60
5.7 Functional and non-functional drawstrings, cords/ties 61
5.8 Toggles 64
5.9 Fixed bows 65
5.10 Buttons 65
5.11 Pom-poms and fringe 66
5.12 Decorative trims and embellishments 66
5.13 Bead 68
5.14 Sequins 68
5.15 Jewel 69
5.16 Heat transfer diamante (rhinstone) and stud guidelines 69
5.17 Fire safety 70
5.18 Sun protection 70
References 70
#(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:21) (cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:12)
(cid:1)(cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:5)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:16)(cid:12)(cid:17)(cid:18)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:4)(cid:22)(cid:22)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:17) (cid:23)(cid:24)
6.1 Introduction 72
6.2 Safety review 72
6.3 Flammability requirements in children apparel 89
References 96
(cid:23)(cid:2) (cid:25)(cid:26)(cid:22)(cid:14)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:21)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:26)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:14)(cid:18)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:27)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:21)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:18) (cid:28)(cid:23)
(cid:21)(cid:27)(cid:29)(cid:21)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:4)(cid:22)(cid:22)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:17)
7.1 Introduction 97
7.2 Lead content in surface coating 98
7.3 Lead content in substrate (metal) 103
7.4 Lead content in substrate (non-metal) 107
7.5 Cadmium in coated/plastic items 112
7.6 Evaluation of phthalates 115
7.7 Nickel release test: BS EN 1811 and BS EN 12472 120
7.8 Test method for formaldehyde 122
7.9 Test method of azo dyes 123
7.10 Test method of azo dyes (polyester fabric) 124
7.11 Miscellaneous test methods 125
References 126
(cid:30)(cid:2) (cid:31)(cid:17)(cid:14)(cid:29)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:6) (cid:27)(cid:17)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:10)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:6)!(cid:27)(cid:12)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:26)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:26)(cid:5)(cid:27)(cid:17) "(cid:24)(cid:28)
(cid:21)(cid:27)(cid:29)(cid:21)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:21)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:19)(cid:9)(cid:4)(cid:22)(cid:22)(cid:4)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:17)
8.1 Introduction 129
8.2 Canada Hazardous Products Act 130
8.3 Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA) 130
8.4 EU (REACH) 131
8.5 Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) 144
8.6 OEKO-TEX Standard 100 151
8.7 US regulations 158
8.8 China (GB18401 2010) 168
8.9 Korea Certification (KC) 171
8.10 Japanese regulation 174
8.11 Regulations in Vietnam 174
References 175
(cid:28)(cid:2) #(cid:14)(cid:19)(cid:15)(cid:17)(cid:27)(cid:21)(cid:12)(cid:14)(cid:19) "(cid:23)(cid:30)
"(cid:30)$
Index

(cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:6)
Product safety requirements of apparel and the management of restricted
substances in apparel products are very important and essential to
understand in order to protect consumers and environment. This book is
based on safety of apparels from harmful substances which may be found
in various processing stages. Sources of restricted substances, evaluation,
and management have been discussed in this book. Product compliance of
harmful substances is covered in detail with a practical focus on health
and safety issues. Importance of safety concerns while using various
accessories in children’s apparel and safety of different apparel products
are reviewed in this book. Evaluations of restricted substances are indicated
and global regulations are also highlighted in detail.
Different books on textiles and garments are there in marketplace
covering technological, commercial and management aspects; but the
unique feature of this book is the selection of the chapters which touches
a new dimension in apparel industry and without the knowledge and
compliance of which apparel products can not be exported in developed
countries. Topics are oriented in a practical way to disseminate knowledge
to the manufacturers, factories, buying agencies and retailers who are facing
challenges on day-to-day basis on product safety and presence of various
harmful substances in apparels.
This book is very informative and would be very helpful for the industry to
understand safety related issues in apparel, how these can be avoided and addressed
at the right time to eliminate surprises at the final stage of export. This book
would also be very useful for textile and garment manufacturers, product
development personals, buying agents, retailers, technologists, textile chemists
and educational cluster of textile/fashion industry.
We are thankful to Dr Subrata Das to write a book on this subject that
will be very beneficial to textile/apparel industry in understanding product
safety and better management of restricted substances.
B Vedhagiri
Chairman, B.V.G Educational Trust,
Chairman, IIFT College of Fashion,
Director, Indian Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore, India
Chairman, BOS, MBA Fashion & Retail Management,
Karnataka State Open University, India
Member, BOS, Master of Fashion Management,
Karnataka State Women’s University, India