Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care

667 Pages·1999·8.37 MB·English

by  James V. Gruber

Principles of Polymer
Science and Technology
in Cosmetics and
Personal Care
edited by
E. Desmond Goddard
Former Corporate Research Fellow
Union Carbide Corporation
Tarrytown, New York
James V. Gruber
Amerchol Corporation
Edison, New Jersey
MARCEL
MARCEL DEKKER, INC. NEW YORK • BASEL
D E K K E R
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Library ofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Principles ofpolymerscience andtechnology incosmeticsand personal
care/ editedby E.DesmondGoddardand JamesV. Gruber.
p. cm.—(Cosmeticscience andtechnology :v. 22)
Includesbibliographical referencesand index.
ISBN0-8247-1923-9(alk. paper)
1. Cosmetics. 2. Toiletpreparations. 3. Polymers. I.Goddard,
E.D. (ErrolDesmond). II. Gruber, JamesV.
III.Series:Cosmetic scienceand technologyseries : v. 22.
TP983.P8924 1999
668¢.5—dc21 99-17274
CIP
This bookis printedonacid-freepaper.
Headquarters
Marcel Dekker,Inc.
270 MadisonAvenue, New York,NY 10016
tel: [phone];fax:[phone]
Eastern HemisphereDistribution
Marcel DekkerAG
Hutgasse 4, Postfach812,CH-4001 Basel,Switzerland
tel: [phone];fax:[phone]
World WideWeb
http://www.dekker.com
Thepublisheroffersdiscountsonthisbookwhenorderedinbulkquantities.Formoreinformation,
write toSpecialSales/ProfessionalMarketing at theheadquartersaddressabove.
Copyright (cid:211) 1999byMarcelDekker,Inc.AllRightsReserved.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,microfilming,andrecording,orbyanyinforma-
tionstorage andretrieval system, withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.
Current printing(last digit):
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
PRINTED IN THEUNITEDSTATESOF AMERICA
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
AbouttheSeries
The CosmeticScienceand Technology series was conceived to permit discussion ofabroad
rangeof current knowledge and theories of cosmeticscience and technology.Theseries is
composed of both books written by asingleauthor and edited volumes with anumber of
contributors.Authorities fromindustry,academia, and thegovernment participatein writing
thesebooks.
The aimof theseries is to cover the many facets of cosmeticscience and technology.Topics are
drawn from a wide spectrumof disciplines ranging from chemistry,physics,biochemistry, and
analytical and consumer evaluations to safety, efficacy,toxicity,and regulatory questions.
Organic,inorganic,physical and polymer chemistry,emulsion and lipidtechnology,
microbiology,dermatology,and toxicology all play important roles in cosmeticscience.
Thereis littlecommonality in thescientific methods, processes, and formulations required for
thewidevariety of cosmetics and toiletries in the market.Products range frompreparations for
hair,oral, and skin careto lipsticks,nail polishes and extenders,deodorants,bodypowders and
aerosols,to quasi-pharmaceutical over-the-counter products such as antiperspirants,dandruff
shampoos,antimicrobial soaps,and acne and sun screen products.
Cosmetics and toiletries represent ahighlydiversified field involving many subsections of
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
scienceand “art.”Even in these days of high technology,art and intuitioncontinueto play an
important part in thedevelopment of formulations,their evaluation,selection of raw materials,
and,perhaps most importantly,thesuccessful marketing of new products.The application of
more sophisticated scientific methodologies that gained steam in the1980s has increased in such
areas as claimsubstantiation,safety testing,product testing,and chemical analysisand has led to
abetter understanding of theproperties ofskin and hair.Molecular modeling techniques are
beginning to beapplied to data obtained in skin sensory studies.
Emphasis in theCosmetic Science and Technology series is placed on reporting thecurrent
status of cosmetictechnology and scienceand changing regulatory climates and presenting
historical reviews. Theseries has now grown to 26 books dealing with theconstantly changing
technologies and trends in thecosmeticindustry,including globalization.Several of thevolumes
havebeen translated into Japanese and Chinese.Contributionsrangefrom highly sophisticated
and scientifictreatises to primers and presentations of practical applications.Authors are
encouraged to present their own concepts as well as established theories.Contributors havebeen
asked not to shy away fromfields that are in astate of transition,nor to hesitateto present
detailed discussionsof their own work. Altogether,weintend to develop in this series a
collection of critical surveys and ideas covering diversephases of thecosmeticindustry.
The13 chapters in Multifunctional Cosmetics cover multifunctional products forhair,nail, oral,
and skin care, as well as products with enhanced sunscreen and antimicrobial properties Several
chapters deal with thedevelopment of claimsupport data,the roleof packaging,and consumer
research on theperception of multifunctional cosmeticproducts.The authors keep in mind that
in thecase of cosmetics,it is not only thephysical effects that can be measured on theskin or
hair,but also thesensory effects that have to betaken into account.Cosmetics can have a
psychological and social impact that cannot beunderestimated.
I want to thank all thecontributors for participating in this project and particularly theeditors,
Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller, for conceiving,organizing,and coordinating this book.
It is thesecond bookthat they havecontributed to this series and we appreciate their efforts.
Special thanks aredueto SandraBeberman and Erin Nihill oftheeditorial and production staff
at Marcel Dekker,Inc.Finally, I would liketo thank my wife, Eva, without whoseconstant
support and editorial help I would not haveundertaken this project.
EricJungermann,Ph.D.
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
COSMETICSCIENCEANDTECHNOLOGY
SeriesEditor
ERICJUNGERMANN
JungermannAssociates,Inc.
Phoenix,Arizona
1. Cosmetic and Drug Preservation: Principles and Practice, edited by Jon J.
Kabara
2. TheCosmeticIndustry:ScientificandRegulatoryFoundations,editedbyNorman
F.Estrin
3. Cosmetic Product Testing: A Modern Psychophysical Approach, Howard R.
Moskowitz
4. CosmeticAnalysis:SelectiveMethodsandTechniques,editedbyP.Boré
5. CosmeticSafety:APrimerforCosmeticScientists,editedbyJamesH.Whittam
6. OralHygieneProductsandPractice,MortonPader
7. AntiperspirantsandDeodorants,editedbyKarlLadenandCarlB.Felger
8. ClinicalSafetyandEfficacyTestingofCosmetics,editedbyWilliamC.Waggoner
9. MethodsforCutaneousInvestigation,editedbyRobertL.RietschelandThomas
S.Spencer
10. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects, edited by
NicholasJ.LoweandNadimA.Shaath
11. Glycerine: A Key Cosmetic Ingredient, edited by Eric Jungermann and Norman
O.V.Sonntag
12. HandbookofCosmeticMicrobiology,DonaldS.Orth
13. RheologicalPropertiesofCosmeticsandToiletries,editedbyDennisLaba
14. Consumer Testing and Evaluation of Personal Care Products, Howard R. Mos-
kowitz
15. Sunscreens:Development,Evaluation,andRegulatoryAspects.SecondEdition,
Revised and Expanded, edited by Nicholas J. Lowe, Nadim A. Shaath, and
MadhuA.Pathak
16. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs: Principles and
Practice,editedbyJonJ.KabaraandDonaldS.Orth
17. HairandHairCare,editedbyDaleH.Johnson
18. CosmeticClaimsSubstantiation,editedbyLouiseB.Aust
19. NovelCosmeticDeliverySystems,editedbyShlomoMagdassiandElkaTouitou
20. AntiperspirantsandDeodorants: SecondEdition,RevisedandExpanded,edited
byKarlLaden
21. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, edited by Randy Schueller and Perry
Romanowski
22. PrinciplesofPolymerScienceandTechnologyinCosmeticsandPersonalCare,
editedbyE.DesmondGoddardandJamesV.Gruber
23. Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, edited by Peter Elsner and Howard I.
Maibach
24. CosmeticLipidsandtheSkinBarrier,editedbyThomasFörster
25. SkinMoisturization,editedbyJamesJ.LeydenandAnthonyV.Rawlings
26. MultifunctionalCosmetics,editedbyRandySchuellerandPerryRomanowski
ADDITIONALVOLUMESINPREPARATION
(cid:83)(cid:101)(cid:114)(cid:105)(cid:101)(cid:115) (cid:73)(cid:110)(cid:116)(cid:114)(cid:111)(cid:100)(cid:117)(cid:99)(cid:116)(cid:105)(cid:111)(cid:110)
The Cosmetic Science and Technology series was conceived to permit discussion of a
broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science and technology. The
series is made up of books either written by a single author or edited with a number of
contributors. Authorities from industry, academia, and the government are participating
in writing these books.
Theaimofthisseriesistocoverthemanyfacetsofcosmeticscienceandtechnology.
Topics are drawn from a wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from chemistry, physics,
biochemistry,analyticalandconsumerevaluationstosafety,efficacy,toxicity,andregula-
toryquestions.Organic, inorganic,physical,and polymerchemistry,aswellasemulsion
technology,microbiology,dermatologyandtoxicologyallplayaroleincosmeticscience.
There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, or formulations re-
quiredforthewidevarietyofcosmeticsandtoiletriesmanufactured.Productsrangefrom
hair care, oral care, and skin care preparations to lipsticks, nail polishes and extenders,
deodorants,body powdersandaerosols,toover-the-counter products,such asantiperspi-
rants, dandruff treatments, antimicrobial soaps, and acne and sunscreen products.
Cosmeticsandtoiletriesrepresentahighlydiversifiedfieldwithmanysubsectionsof
science and ‘‘art.’’ Indeed, even in these days of high technology, ‘‘art’’ and intuition
continue to play an important part in the development of formulations, their evaluation,
and the selection of raw materials. There is a move toward more sophisticated scientific
methodologies in the fields of preservative efficacy testing, claim substantiation, safety
testing, product evaluation, and chemical analyses.
Emphasis in the Cosmetic Science and Technologyseries is placed on reporting the
currentstatusofcosmetictechnologyandscienceinadditiontohistoricalreviews.Several
ofthebookshavefoundaninternationalaudienceandhavebeentranslatedintoJapanese
orChinese.Contributionsrangefromhighlysophisticatedandscientifictreatisestoprim-
ers,practicalapplications,andpragmaticpresentations.Authorsareencouragedtopresent
theirownconcepts,aswellasestablishedtheories.Contributorshavebeenaskednotto
shyawayfromfieldsthatarestillinastateoftransition,ortohesitatetopresentdetailed
discussionsoftheirownwork.Altogether,weintendtodevelopinthisseriesacollection
of critical surveys and ideas covering diverse phases of the cosmetic industry.
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
iv SeriesIntroduction
Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care is
the twenty-second volume published in this series. Polymers are important components
inabroadrangeofcosmeticandpersonalcareproducts.Theyfillamultitudeoffunctions
toonumeroustolist.Thisbookcoversthemanyclassesofpolymersusedinalmostevery
typeofcosmeticformulationandtheirwiderangeofapplications,specialproperties,and
sometimes specialized requirements.
I want to thank the editors, E. Desmond Goddard and James V. Gruber, and all the
contributors for collaboratingintheeditingandwriting ofthisbook. Specialrecognition
isalsoduetoSandraBebermanandtheeditorialstaffatMarcelDekker,Inc.Inaddition,
I would like to thank my wife Eva, without whose constant support and editorial help I
would never have undertaken this project.
Eric Jungermann, Ph.D.
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
(cid:80)(cid:114)(cid:101)(cid:102)(cid:97)(cid:99)(cid:101)
Although synthetic polymers first appeared in the last century, it has been the twentieth
century,especiallythesecondhalf,whichhaswitnessedanexplosivegrowthinthedevel-
opmentanduseofthiscategoryofmaterial.Indeed,itisdifficulttothinkofmanyindus-
tries today that do not employ polymers in some form or another. Such employment, of
course,includesthatbythecosmeticandpersonalcareindustryinwhichtheuseofpoly-
mericmaterialscontinuestodeveloprapidly.Thistrendwillcontinueinthenextcentury.
Polymerscience—alreadystartingfromasolidfoundationwiththeearlyrecognition
that many natural products, including proteins and polysaccharides, are polymeric—has
grown apace with these developments. Today some would aver that it has been difficult
for manyscientists, includingthoseactually involved in research anddevelopment work
involvingpolymers,tokeepabreastofrecenttheoreticaldevelopments,letalonetoretain
a working familiarity with what has evolved today as basic polymer science. Be this as
itmay,aneedwasidentifiedforabookthatcouldbeusednotonlyasareferencesource
forthepolymerscurrentlyusedinthecosmeticsindustry,butalsoasasourceofinforma-
tion on thebasic physical chemistryof polymers asitapplies to thefunctions they serve
intheformulationandusepropertiesofcosmetics.Furthermore,becauseofboththelatter
featuresandtheoverlappingoftechnology,itseemsthatsuchatext mightalsobefound
useful by investigators in related fields such as detergent formulation, pharmaceuticals,
textiles, and even the latex paint industry. Bearing in mind the breadth of the field, we
invitedtheparticipationofseveralotherauthors,allrecognizedasexpertsintheirarea(s)
ofpolymerscience.Webelievetheresultisacomprehensivecoverageofthefielddesig-
nated by the title of the book.
The body of the text consists of 12 self-standing chapters comprising a mix of the
fundamental science of polymers, their solution and interfacial properties, their interac-
tionswithsurfactants,theintrinsicpropertiesofpolymersemployedincosmeticformula-
tions,and thepropertiestheyconfer totreated surfaces.Thereis alsoanappendix which
lists and groups the polymers used in cosmetics.
Chapter 1 is an introduction to polymer science, covering its history, fundamentals,
andrecentdevelopments.Thereaderisintroducedtothedifferenttypesofpolymers,their
Copyright © 1999 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.