Table Of Content! H
Practical Baking
Third Edition
other AVI books
Food Science
BAKERY TECHNOLOGY AND ENGINEERING, 2ND EDITION Matz
BASIC FOOD CHEMISTRY Cloth and Soft Cover Lee
BEVERAGES: CARBONATED AND NONCARBONATED Woodroof and Phillips
BREAD SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY Pomeranz and Meloan
BREAD MAKING AND FLOUR CONFECTIONERY, 2ND EDITION Fance
COMMERCIAL FRUIT PROCESSING Cloth and Soft Cover Woodroof and Luh
COMMERCIAL VEGETABLE PROCESSING Cloth and Soft Cover Luh and
Woodroof
DIETARY NUTRIENT GUIDE Soft Cover Pennington
ELEMENTARY FOOD SCIENCE Soft Cover Nickerson and Ronsivalli
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF FOOD ENGINEERING Hall, Farrall and Rippen
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF FOOD TECHNOLOGY Johnson and Peterson
FOOD AND THE CONSUMER Soft Cover Kramer
FOOD CHEMISTRY Aurand and Woods
FOOD CHEMISTRY Soft Cover Meyer
FOOD COLORIMETRY: THEORY AND APPLICATIONS Francis and Clydesdale
FOOD FOR THOUGHT .- Soft Cover Labuza
FOOD PROCESS ENGINEERING Cloth and Soft Cover Heldman
FOOD PRODUCTS FORMULARY, VOL. 1 Komarik, Tressler and Long
VOL. 2 Tressler and Sultan
FOOD SCIENCE Potter
FREEZING PRESERVATION OF FOODS, 4TH EDITION, VOLS. 1, 2, 3, AND 4
Tressler, Van Arsdel and Copley
FUNDAMENTALS OF FOOD ENGINEERING, 2ND EDITION Charm
MICROWAVE HEATING, 2ND EDITION Copley
PRACTICAL BAKING MANUAL, 2ND EDITION Soft Cover Sultan
PRACTICAL MEAT CUTTING AND MERCHANDISING, VOLS. 1 AND 2 Fabbricante
and Sultan
SNACK FOOD TECHNOLOGY Matz
YEAST TECHNOLOGY Peppler and Reed
Food Service
CONVENIENCE AND FAST FOOD HANDBOOK Thorner
FOOD BEVERAGE SERVICE HANDBOOK Thorner and Herzberg
FOOD SANITATION Guthrie
FOOD SERVICE FACILITIES PLANNING Kazarian
FOOD SERVICE SCIENCE Smith and Minor
MEAT HANDBOOK, 3RD EDITION Levie
MENU PLANNING Eckstein
QUALITY CONTROL IN FOOD SERVICE Cloth and Soft Cover Thorner and
Manning
SCHOOL FOODSERVICE Van Egmond
WORK ANALYSIS AND DESIGN IN FOOD SERVICE Kazarian
Practical Baking
Third Edition
by
WILLIAM J. SULTAN
Chairman, Food Trades
Food and Maritime Trades High School
New York, New York
Member, Cake Baker’s Union, Local 51, AFL-CIO
Instructor, Practical Production Problems
for Bakery Foremen, New York City Board of
Education, Trade Extension Program
Member, Council on Hotel, Restaurant and
Institutional Education
Consultant to the Bakery Trade and Allied Trades
Educational Consultant-Director,
Baking Industry Apprentice Training
Program of Metropolitan New York
OIsScCARDEL
PaxADee.GHT COLE
THE AVI PUBLISHING COMPANY, INC.
WESTPORT, CONNECTICUT
© Copyright 1976 by
THE AVI PUBLISHING COMPANY, INC.
Westport, Connecticut
All rights reserved. No part of this work covered
by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used
in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic,
or mechanical, including photocopying, recording,
taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—
without written permission of the publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 76-21453
ISBN-0-87055-214-7
Printed in the United States of America
BY THE MACK PRINTING COMPANY, EASTON, PENNSYLVANIA
Preface
cc ei iia tt a i et iy pe
The purpose of this book is twofold: to provide the experienced baker
or pastry chef with a practical handbook which he can use for ready
reference and to offer the teacher and student of baking a text which can
be used equally effectively in classroom, vocational training programs,
or on-the-job training programs.
To accomplish this dual aim, a “recipe method” or approach has been
taken in much the same way as the case method is used in the teaching of
law. The numerous recipes contained in this book are basic to the trade
and have been tested by repeated use in bakeshops. They represent a
cross-section of all types of bakery products.
Of special import are the step-by-step procedures provided with each
recipe. This leaves nothing to chance or the lack of experience. Special
note is also made of practices, techniques, and procedures related to
each of the bakery products. For example, the special factors pertain-
ing to the fermentation and proofing of yeast-raised products, handling
of various cake mixes, baking and finishing products, and the retarding
of products are explained. The illustrations provide a better insight
and understanding of the techniques and skills of makeup of the
various products. In addition, the procedures are described in terms
of equipment and practices used in both large production plants and
the small retail shop.
For the experienced baker, the recipes serve as a vehicle for the
improvement of quality bakery products by stressing those principles
of production which eliminate failure or poor quality resulting from the
lack of understanding. His present recipes may certainly be used to
better effect with application of the knowledge and skill derived from
the contents of this publication.
To the teachers of baking and food preparation in formal, school
situations and to qualified bakers doing on-the-job training, the units
are set up in their respective categories in a sequence from the simple
to the complex. This makes possible a chronological development and
transfer of skills and knowledge from one job or project to the next. Of
special interest to teachers is the fact that this publication is an outgrowth
of a recently revised course of study prepared by the author with the
express purpose of updating the training of those interested in becom-
ing bakers. The revisions made in the course of study were such that
TIRO33 }
vi PRACTICAL BAKING
the basic skills and knowledges were related and directed toward the
new developments which have greatly affected the baking industry in
recent years. Technological advances are spelled out in terms of the
daily, practical experiences of the baker.
The expected outcomes resulting from the use of this publication should
reflect a further development of skill, greater understanding of production
requirements and production problems, a more efficient use of raw ma-
terials, improved production, and greater variety of baked products.
Because the publication is directed toward the training and education
of bakers through a better understanding and application of trade tech-
niques and processes, and toward the self-improvement of the experi-
enced baker, it should make more valuable and meaningful the many
services, materials, processes, and publications provided by the industry
and those associated with the further growth of the industry.
Acknowledgment is given to the cooperation and assistance of Mr.
Peter Schiulaz and Mr. Burton Abramowitz of the staff of the Baking
Department of the Food & Maritime Trades High School in the re-
vision and improvement of the sequence of material and the illustrations.
The author also wishes to thank Mr. David Martin of the University of
Bridgeport for drawing the illustrations.
WILLIAM J. SULTAN
August 1965
Preface to Second Edition
Since the First Edition of Practical Baking I have been actively engaged
in assisting the baking industry in the establishment of various training
programs for apprentice and student bakers, and in the development of
courses of study and training for these programs.
In the Appendix of this Second Edition will be found the most recently
developed course of study and training guide for bakers and apprentices
presently being used on a nationwide scale. The teacher, the shop fore-
man, the apprentice, and student will now be able to apply this course of
study and training guide to the contents of Practical Baking. With this
assistance of educational “know-how” a more effective and efficient pro-
gram may be developed to meet the special needs of any training program
in baking since the course of study defines objectives and coordinates them
with the text. Also will be found for the teacher, and for the student and
apprentice, a special message which I trust shall be helpful toward in-
dividual and collective goals.
WILLIAM J. SULTAN
January 1969
PREFACE Vii
Preface to Third Edition
The third edition contains four new chapters concerning specialized areas of
bakery food production, as the retail baker and the larger commercial baker are
diversifying their bakery products to meet the growing markets for specialized
bakery foods. For example, the rapid growth of the “natural” bakery products
market has created a new and expanding product development area within the
baking industry. The chapter on “natural” breads and other bakery foods
contains a complete variety of bakery products that are characteristic of the
present market for these foods. The baker may expand his product line with
the use of the formulas in this chapter. The chapter on dietetic baking enlarges
for the baker the variety of products that may be made for consumers on limited
sugar and sodium free salt diets. The chapter will enable the baker to make his
own products or use the prepared mixes for the production of dietetic bakery
foods.
There is always the need for special products that meet ethnic needs. Such
is the case of the Jewish consumer who requests the baked food specialties for
the Passover holiday. The chapter containing the formulas for the more popular
of these products will provide the baker with a complete line of these products
and how they are made. Still other specialized products are made with the use
of sour cream and sour cream substitutes known as sour dressings. The chapter
on sour cream baking introduces the baker to the more popular products made
with either sour cream or the sour dressing made without dairy products.
The new chapters of the third edition are of importance to the instructor and
the student of baking. It will enable schools and special baker organizations to
offer special programs for the upgrading and introductory training in the pro-
duction of the variety of bakery foods now present in the Practical Baking, Third
Edition.
WILLIAM J. SULTAN
April 1976
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Contents
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CHAPTER PAGE
PPC AC Ciri pee a. Mates REE ORE, PONS MOU, tana Netes. | AT Genie ee Vv
Section I. Ingredients and Their Properties
IEE SUGARS AND. THEIR. Usk in: BAKING sanjsh Ratan Giyaseaeveet teee ee Hl
2 SOMOWLENTINGS! AND» LHEIR USES. qa... ak hy eee ce ES eer Ona oe 5
Smt Ges— lip CONPOSITION AND, USES «aciash saimeuns taR s:on a e fet
Ee eVV EEN EKO UR: f-ctag eh ONGC RORY, CEES BR le ay 17
> NER ANDI TE (USES INT BAKING OLIN cane suds ia,2 4 RE Gap haw ss « 24
f AREER: oid! blond OR AEEE e akeo le Eee tee ee a ee arene 29
fs (SMES SEDAN ORG AND SEICESE cop set tr: Anco Mucce tenner death MPt omo iiee. 34
82 COCOR AAND CHOCO NTE ne Hak aon Mito tye tte vo be Eds, a ee erence ee 39
9; (CEEMIGATAL GAVENINGHAGCENTS © Ach 4 solv scam aa pater ass 7 oem ete eee 44
LOS ee SPALINGSOR- BAKERY SP RODUCES ec <9 cies = 0.6 ete Ecaovn htloceneene AQ
Section II. Bread and Rolls
Ni BASICLOPRRATIONS IN7 BREAD" MAKING Senin aeitn ne es a eee cee eine 54
12. Ecc Breab, FRENCH AND ITALIAN BREAD, Harp AND Sorr ROLLS......... 61
1S) Rye BREAD VARIETIES: | oo 1c LS eee een eA nn ee Anna 66
14 PRECIEESTFORDD READ AND SROLES $25 3 530 Loe en ee ete ane ol
Heamiburcerand: Prankturter! Rolls’: hae eo. eeu ceneece eeee Walk
uiswastedul Soft Rollgta fea sees hos ee 783
White Pan Bread and White Mountain Bread...:.............00..- 74
ooE MRlOlS neadnt Seabees Lee Pe AEM BSL MORE et ie eee ee 78
Pullman Bread, Split-Top Bread, and Round Split Bread.............. 80
Keaisere@vaenna:* Rollss3.50oenmte testes bt tetera Re eae ee eee 82
BrencheBread and Rrench Oval Rollsa; senccae eee ne) ee .Ce n 84
TiAlianeBreadh Rolls* and Bread! Sticks. 9h cmt eee ceeee eee 87
Parker House, Clover-Leaf, and Butter-Flake Rolls................... 91
ClabsRollstand =W aters Rolls? eee eect ceo o oe ee oe ce ee ie ices 95
SweetRve: Bread? and! Rolls. Sao peer cmenshe hr teachca : 97
Solin Rye! Bread fandwRollske enn rane eee ee cian ete er mene 101
Braided HesiBreads: stain cere on one eos togetenaenen te retrmenceretsn en 105
PompernickeliBreadcand Rolls enatae etm tte tiie eter entra 107
HeavyiSourhyve Bread: (Corn Bread) aera neti nee reer aren 109
Wiholes Wheat Bread ivete te atot oest erete ee eee reece tne ened reer a cee 110
Reaisita BROAC ite etcde stuns ccolata dadsn ar etalaneuepeeeesaea enero ean Roe cee ea meee 112
Vaie Taii AyB EE OA IAS BPS Laks Sead ed ak eal ae ic oeee e eee 113
Gintamion (BrCAG out) hohe aha ea ee ee oe eo 114
DATCUNW EE B Tea Soot.) sls hcieliel slanetetehal goss dove eel aielal akt ee epee cae teatN e 116
BGs Lome ROveielsr CAC ira s0-1 eoo ne ach mend enc necehcheccnel isks tchakelich snnc Seen enem emes 117
(Clhmrsa (DIGS EKON) 1Br deeXd inten ptaenc cose 6-0 cag 0 O01 Ospina ioole ng C-D-olop p< 118
RoteSodiom Bread 2077.55 il bere bgt as flee age an gee oe meee 119
GC OPBICA MRE ee eee te ied Maen Resid eid =)P ere once oo teeke 120
SEGuLOMAD C Manne ay afetauetenalspeny parent sata eicha iare!y aisisu=asbalaneneyn isvosste eneele 120
OV Ales ape rere ae tee tcacareer em meen roan (See ohc es baer ayy aserers are eer 121
SiailES Maem CANUICUSCIN) egeimredetciete ois Meee cyrlawarel eres chalenn seuss cr-usteite|= 121
