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FROM THE MARVILLA, SANTAREM. FROM THE MARVILLA, SANTAREM; ALSO IN THE MATRIZ,
ALVITO, AND ELSEWHERE
P O R T U G U E S E
A R C H I T E C T U R E
BY
WALTER CRUM WATSON
ILLUSTRATED
LONDON
ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND COMPANY
LIMITED
1908
Edinburgh: T. and A. Constable, Printers to His Majesty
AOS MEUS QUERIDOS PARENTES E AMIGOS
A ILLMA E EXMA SNRA
M. L. DOS PRADOS LARGOS
E OS
ILLMOS E EXMOS SNRES
BARONEZA E BARÃO DE SOUTELLINHO
COMO RECONHECIMENTO PELAS AMABILIDADES E ATTENÇÕES
QUE ME DISPENSARAM NOS BELLOS DIAS QUE PASSEI
NA SUA COMPANHIA
COMO HOMENAGEM RESPEITOSA
O.D.C.
O AUCTOR
PREFACE
CONTENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
INTRODUCTION
BOOKS CONSULTED
INDEX
FOOTNOTES
PREFACE
The buildings of Portugal, with one or two exceptions, cannot be said to excel or even to come up to those of other countries. To
a large extent the churches are without the splendid furniture which makes those of Spain the most romantic in the world, nor are
they in themselves so large or so beautiful. Some apology, then, may seem wanted for imposing on the public a book whose subject-
matter is not of first-class importance.
The present book is the outcome of visits to Portugal in April or May of three successive years; and during these visits the writer
became so fond of the country and of its people, so deeply interested in the history of its glorious achievements in the past, and in the
buildings which commemorate these great deeds, that it seemed worth while to try and interest others in them. Another reason for
writing about Portugal instead of about Spain is that the country is so much smaller that it is no very difficult task to visit every part
and see the various buildings with one's own eyes: besides, in no language does there exist any book dealing with the architecture of
the country as a whole. There are some interesting monographs in Portuguese about such buildings as the palace at Cintra, or
Batalha, while the Renaissance has been fully treated by Albrecht Haupt, but no one deals at all adequately with what came before
the time of Dom Manoel.
Most of the plans in the book were drawn from rough measurements taken on the spot and do not pretend to minute accuracy.
For the use of that of the Palace at Cintra the thanks of the writer are due to Conde de Sabugosa, who allowed it to be copied
from his book, while the plan of Mafra was found in an old magazine.
Thanks are also due to Senhor Joaquim de Vasconcellos for much valuable information, to his wife, Senhora Michaelis de
Vasconcellos, for her paper about the puzzling inscriptions at Batalha, and above all the Baron and the Baroneza de Soutellinho, for
their repeated welcome to Oporto and for the trouble they have taken in getting books and photographs.
That the book may be more complete there has been added a short account of some of the church plate and paintings which still
survive, as well as of the tile work which is so universal and so characteristic.
As for the buildings, hardly any of any consequence have escaped notice.
EDINBURGH, 1907.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
PAGE
Portugal separated from Spain by no natural division geographical or linguistic; does not correspond with Roman Lusitania, nor with the later Suevic
kingdom—Traces of early Celtic inhabitants; Citania, Sabrosa—Roman Occupation; Temple at Evora—Barbarian Invasions—Arab Conquest—
Beginnings of Christian re-conquest—Sesnando, first Count of Oporto—Christians defeated at Zalaca—Count Henry of Burgundy and Dona Theresa
1-10
—Beginnings of Portuguese Independence—Affonso Henriques, King of Portugal—Growth of Portugal—Victory of Aljubarrota—Prince Henry the
Navigator—The Spanish Usurpation—The Great Earthquake—The Peninsular War—The Miguelite War—The suppression of the Monasteries—
Differences between Portugal and Spain, etc.
Painting in Portugal
Not very many examples of Portuguese paintings left—Early connection with Burgundy; and with Antwerp—Great influence of Flemish school—The
myth of Grão Vasco—Pictures at Evora, at Thomar, at Setubal, in Santa Cruz, Coimbra—'The Fountain of Mercy' at Oporto—The pictures at Vizeu: 10-17
'St. Peter'—Antonio de Hollanda
Church Plate
Much plate lost during the Peninsular War—Treasuries of Braga, Coimbra, and Evora, and of Guimarães—Early chalices, etc., at Braga, Coimbra, and
Guimarães—Crosses at Guimarães and at Coimbra—Relics of St. Isabel—Flemish influence seen in later work—Tomb of St. Isabel, and coffins of 17-20
sainted abbesses of Lorvão
Tiles
Due to Arab influence—The word azulejo and its origin—The different stages in the development of tile making—Early tiles at Cintra Moorish in
pattern and in technique—Tiles at Bacalhôa Moorish in technique but Renaissance in pattern—Later tiles without Moorish technique, e.g. at Santarem 20-28
and elsewhere—Della Robbia ware at Bacalhôa—Pictures in blue and white tiles very common
CHAPTER I
EARLY BUILDINGS IN THE NORTH
The oldest buildings are in the North—Very rude and simple—Three types—Villarinho—São Miguel, Guimarães—Cedo Feita, Oporto—Gandara,
Boelhe, etc., are examples of the simplest—Aguas Santas, Rio Mau, etc., of the second; and of the third Villar de Frades, etc.—Legend of Villar—Sé, 29-43
Braga—Sé, Oporto—Paço de Souza—Method of roofing—Tomb of Egas Moniz—Pombeiro—Castle and Church, Guimarães
CHAPTER II
EARLY BUILDINGS IN THE SOUTH
Growth of Christian kingdom under Affonso Henriques—His vow—Capture of Santarem, of Lisbon—Cathedral, Lisbon, related to Church of S.
Sernin, Toulouse—Ruined by Great Earthquake, and badly restored—Sé Velha, Coimbra, general scheme copied from Santiago and so from S.
Sernin, Toulouse—Other churches at Coimbra—Evora, its capture—Cathedral founded—Similar in scheme to Lisbon, but with pointed arches; central 44-63
lantern; cloister—Thomar founded by Gualdim Paes; besieged by Moors—Templar Church—Santarem, Church of São João de Alporão—Alcobaça;
great wealth of Abbey—Designed by French monks—Same plan as Clairvaux—Has but little influence on later buildings
CHAPTER III
THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES DOWN TO
THE BATTLE OF ALJUBARROTA
The thirteenth century poor in buildings—The Franciscans—São Francisco Guimarães—Santarem—Santa Maria dos Olivaes at Thomar—Cf. aisle
windows at Leça do Balio—Inactivity and deposition of Dom Sancho ii. by Dom Affonso iii.—Conquest of Algarve—Sé, Silves—Dom Diniz and the
64-78
castles at Beja and at Leiria—Cloisters, Cellas, Coimbra, Alcobaça, Lisbon, and Oporto—St. Isabel and Sta. Clara at Coimbra—Leça do Balio—The
choir of the cathedral, Lisbon, with tombs—Alcobaça, royal tombs—Dom Pedro i. and Inez de Castro; her murder, his sorrow—Their tombs
CHAPTER IV
AND THE DELIVERANCE OF PORTUGAL
Dom Fernando and Dona Leonor Telles—Her wickedness and unpopularity—Their daughter, Dona Brites, wife of Don Juan of Castile, rejected—
Dom João i. elected king—Battle of Aljubarrota—Dom João's vow—Marriage of Dom João and Philippa of Lancaster—Batalha founded; its plan
79-92
national, not foreign; some details seem English, some French, some even German—Huguet the builder did not copy York or Canterbury—Tracery
very curious—Inside very plain—Capella do Fundador, with the royal tombs—Capellas Imperfeitas
CHAPTER V
EARLIER FIFTEENTH CENTURY
Nossa Senhora da Oliveira Guimarães rebuilt as a thankoffering—Silver reredos captured at Aljubarrota—The cathedral, Guarda—Its likeness to
Batalha—Nave later—Nuno Alvarez Pereira, the Grand Constable, and the Carmo, Lisbon—João Vicente and Villar de Frades—Alvito, Matriz— 93-
Capture of Ceuta—Tombs in the Graça, Santarem—Dom Pedro de Menezes and his 'Aleo'—Tomb of Dom Duarte de Menezes in São João de 103
Alporão—Tombs at Abrantes cloister—Thomar
CHAPTER VI
GOTHIC
Graça, Santarem—Parish churches, Thomar, Villa do Conde, Azurara and Caminha, all similar in plan—Cathedrals: Funchal, Lamego, and Vizeu— 104-
Porch and chancel of cathedral, Braga—Conceição, Braga 115
CHAPTER VII
INFLUENCE OF THE MOORS
Few buildings older than the re-conquest—But many built for Christians by Moors—The Palace, Cintra—Originally country house of the Walis—
Rebuilt by Dom João i.—Plan and details Moorish—Entrance court—Sala dos Cysnes, why so called, its windows; Sala do Conselho; Sala das Pegas, 116-
its name, chimney-piece; Sala das Sereias; dining-room; Pateo, baths; Sala dos Arabes; Pateo de Diana; chapel; kitchen—Castles at Guimarães and at 128
Barcellos—Villa de Feira
CHAPTER VIII
MOORISH BUILDINGS
Commoner in Alemtejo—Castle, Alvito—Not Sansovino's Palace—Evora, Paços Reaes, Cordovis, Sempre Nova, São João Evangelista, São 129-
Francisco, São Braz 135
CHAPTER IX
CARPENTRY
Examples found all over the country—At Aguas Santas, Azurara, Caminha and Funchal—Cintra, Sala dos Cysnes, Sala dos Escudos—Coimbra, 136-
Misericordia, hall of University—Ville do Conde Santa Clara, Aveiro convent 142
CHAPTER X
MANOELINO
João ii. continues the policy of Prince Henry the Navigator—Bartholomeu Diaz, Vasco da Gama—Accession of Dom Manoel—Discovery of route to
India, and of Brazil—Great wealth of King—Fails to unite all the kingdoms of the Peninsula—Characteristic features of Manoelino—House of Garcia 143-
de Resende, Evora—Caldas da Rainha—Setubal, Jesus—Beja, Conceição, Castle, etc.—Cintra, Palace—Gollegã, Church—Elvas, Cathedral— 156
Santarem, Marvilla—Lisbon, Madre de Deus—Coimbra, University Chapel—Setubal, São Julião
CHAPTER XI
AND THE CONQUEST OF INDIA
Vasco da Gama's successful voyage to Calicut, 1497—Other expeditions lead to discovery of Brazil—Titles conferred on Dom Manoel by Pope
Alexander vi.—Ormuz taken—Strange forms at Thomar not Indian—Templars suppressed and Order of Christ founded instead—Prince Henry Grand
157-
Master—Spiritual supremacy of Thomar over all conquests, made or to be made—Templar church added to by Prince Henry, and more extensively by
170
Dom Manoel—João de Castilho builds Coro—Stalls burnt by French—South door, chapter-house and its windows—Much of the detail emblematic
of the discoveries, etc., made in the East and in the West
CHAPTER XII
ADDITIONS TO BATALHA
Dom Duarte's tomb-house unfinished—Work resumed by Dom Manoel—The two Matheus Fernandes, architects—The Pateo—The great entrance— 171-
Meaning of 'Tanyas Erey'—Piers in Octagon—How was the Octagon to be roofed?—The great Cloister, with its tracery—Whence derived 180
CHAPTER XIII
BELEM
Torre de São Viente built to defend Lisbon—Turrets and balconies not Indian—Vasco da Gama sails from Belem—The great monastery built as a
thankoffering for the success of his voyage—Begun by Boutaca, succeeded by Lourenço Fernandes, and then by João de Castilho—Plan due to 181-
Boutaca—Master Nicolas, the Frenchman, the first renaissance artist in Portugal—Plan: exterior; interior superior to exterior; stalls; cloister, lower and 195
upper—Lisbon, Conceição Velha, also by João de Castilho
CHAPTER XIV
COMING OF THE FOREIGN ARTISTS
Coimbra, Sta. Cruz, founded by Dom Affonso Henriques, rebuilt by Dom Manoel, first architect Marcos Pires—Gregorio Lourenço clerk of the works
196-
—Diogo de Castilho succeeds Marcos Pires—West front, Master Nicolas—Cloister, inferior to that of Belem—Royal tombs—Other French carvers
210
—Pulpit, reredoses in cloister, stalls—Sé Velha reredos, doors—Chapel of São Pedro
CHAPTER XV
INFLUENCE OF THE FOREIGNERS
Tomb at Thomar of the Bishop of Funchal—Tomb in Graça, Santarem—São Marcos, founded by Dona Brites de Menezes—Tomb of Fernão Telles
—Rebuilt by Ayres da Silva, her grandson—Tombs in chancel—Reredos, by Master Nicolas—Reredos at Cintra—Pena Chapel by same—São 211-
Marcos, Chapel of the Reyes Magos—Sansovino's door, Cintra—Evora, São Domingos—Portalegre, Tavira, Lagos, Goes, Trofa, Caminha, 221
Moncorvo
CHAPTER XVI
WORK OF JOÃO DE CASTILHO AND EARLIER CLASSIC
João iii. cared more for the Church than for anything else—Decay begins—Later additions to Alcobaça—Batalha, Sta. Cruz—Thomar, Order of Christ
reformed—Knights become regulars—Great additions, cloisters, dormitory, etc., by João de Castilho—His difficulties, letters to the King—His
222-
addition to Batalha—Builds Conceição at Thomar like Milagre, Santarem—Marvilla, ibid.; Elvas, São Domingos—Cintra, Penha Longa and Penha
239
Verde—Vizeu, Cloister—Lamego, Cloister—Coimbra, São Thomaz—Carmo—Faro—Lorvão—Amarante—Santarem, Santa Clara, and Guarda,
reredos
CHAPTER XVII
LATER RENAISSANCE AND THE SPANISH USURPATION
Diogo de Torralva and Claustro dos Filippes, Thomar—Miranda de Douro—Reigns of Dom Sebastião and of the Cardinal King Henry not noted for
much building—Evora, Graça and University—Fatal expedition by Dom Sebastião to Morocco—His death and defeat—Feeble reign of his grand-
uncle—Election of Philip—Union with Spain and consequent loss of trade—Lisbon, São Roque; coming of Terzi—Lisbon, São Vicente de Fora; first 240-
use of very long Doric pilasters—Santo Antão, Santa Maria do Desterro, and Torreão do Paço—Sé Nova, Coimbra, like Santo Antão—Oporto, 253
Collegio Novo—Coimbra, Misericordia, Bishop's palace; Sacristy of Sé Velha, São Domingos, Carmo, Graça, São Bento by Alvares—Lisbon, São
Bento—Oporto, São Bento
CHAPTER XVIII
BUILDINGS OF THE LATER RENAISSANCE, TILL THE
EXPULSION OF THE SPANIARDS
Vianna do Castello, Misericordia—Beja, São Thiago—Azeitão, São Simão—Evora, Cartuxa—Beja, Misericordia—Oporto, Nossa Senhora da Serra
254-
do Pilar—Sheltered Wellington before he crossed the Douro—Besieged by Dom Miguel—Very original plan—Coimbra, Sacristy of Santa Cruz—
260
Lisbon, Santa Engracia never finished—Doric pilasters too tall—Coimbra, Santa Clara, great abuse of Doric pilasters
CHAPTER XIX
RESTORATION AND THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
The expulsion of the Spaniards—Long war: final success of Portugal and recovered prosperity—Mafra founded by Dom João v.—Compared with the
Escorial—Designed by a German—Palace, church, library, etc.—Evora, Capella Mor—Great Earthquake—The Marques de Pombal—Lisbon, 261-
Estrella—Oporto, Torre dos Clerigos—Oporto, Quinta do Freixo—Queluz—Quinta at Guimarães—Oporto, hospital and factory—Defeat of Dom 271
Miguel and suppression of monasteries
BOOKS CONSULTED 272
INDEX 273
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
To face page
1.Guimarães, House from Sabrosa }
4
2.Evora, Temple of 'Diana'
3.Oporto, Fountain of Mercy 14
4.Vizeu, St. Peter, in Sacristy of Cathedral }
16
5.Coimbra, Cross in Cathedral Treasury
6." Chalice " " }
20
7." Monstrance " "
8.Cintra, Palace, Sala dos Arabes }
24
9." " Dining-room
10.Santarem, Marvilla, coloured wall tiles }
frontispiece.
11." "
12.Vallarinho, Parish Church }
32
13.Villar de Frades, West Door
14.Paço de Souza, Interior of Church }
40
15." " Tomb of Egas Moniz
16.Guimarães, N. S. da Oliveira, Chapter-house Entrance }
42
17.Leça do Balio, Cloister
18.Coimbra, Sé Velha, Interior }
50
19." " West Front
20.Evora, Cathedral, Interior }
54
21." " Central Lantern
22.Evora, Cloister }
56
23.Thomar, Templar Church
24.Santarem, São João de Alporão }
58
25.Alcobaça, South Transept
26.Santarem, São Francisco, West Door }
66
27.Silves, Cathedral, Interior
28.Alcobaça Cloister }
72
29.Lisbon, Cathedral Cloister
30.Coimbra, Sta. Clar 74
31.Alcobaça, Chapel with Royal Tombs }
78
32." Tomb of Dom Pedro i.
33.Batalha, West Fron 86
34.Batalha, Interior }
88
35." Capella do Fundador
36.Batalha, Capellas Imperfeita 92
37.Guimarães, Capella of D. Juan i. of Castile }
94
38.Guarda, North Side of Cathedral
39.Santarem, Tomb of Dom Pedro de Menezes }
102
40." Tomb of Dom Duarte de Menezes
41.Villa do Conde, West Front of Parish Churc 108
42.Vizeu, Interior of Cathedral }
112
43.Braga, Cathedral Porch
44.Cintra, Palace, Main Front }
120
45." " Window in 'Sala das Sereias'
46.Cintra, Palace, Ceiling of Chape 126
47.Alvito, Castle }
132
48.Evora, São João Evangelista, Door to Chapter-house
49.Caminha, Roof of Matriz }
138
50.Cintra, Palace, Ceiling of Sala dos Cysnes
51.Coimbra, University, Ceiling of Sala dos Capello 142
52.Cintra, Palace, additions by D. Manoe 152
53.Santarem, Marvilla, West Door }
154
54.Coimbra, University Chapel Door
55.Thomar, Convent of Christ, South Door }
166
56." " " Chapter-house Window
57.Batalha, Entrance to Capellas Imperfeita 174
58.Batalha, Window of Pateo }
178
59." Upper part of Capellas Imperfeitas
60.Batalha, Claustro Real }
180
61.Batalha, Lavatory in Claustro Real
62.Belem, Torre de São Vicente }
184
63.Belem, Sacristy
64.Belem, South side of Nave }
190
65." Interior, looking west
66.Belem, Cloister }
194
67." Interior of Lower Cloister
68.Lisbon, Conceição Velh 196
69.Coimbra, Sta. Cruz, West Front }
200
70." " Cloister
71.Coimbra, Sta. Cruz, Tomb of D. Sancho i. }
202
72." " Pulpit
73.Coimbra, Sta. Cruz, Reredos in Cloister }
206
74." " Choir Stalls
75.Coimbra, Sé Velha, Reredos }
209
76." " Reredos in Chapel of São Pedro
77.Thomar, Sta. Maria dos Olivaes, Tomb of the Bishop of Funchal }
212
78.São Marcos, Tomb of D. João da Silva
79.São Marcos, Chancel }
218
80." Chapel of the 'Reyes Magos'
81.Cintra, Palace, Door by Sansovino }
220
82.Caminha, West Door of Church
83.Alcobaça, Sacristy Door }
224
84.Batalha, Door of Sta. Cruz
85.Thomar, Claustro da Hospedaria }
228
86." Chapel in Dormitory Passage
87.Thomar, Stair in Claustro dos Filippes }
230
88." Chapel of the Conceição
89.Santarem, Marvilla, Interior }
236
90.Vizeu, Cathedral Cloister
91.Guarda, Cathedral Reredos }
240
92.Thomar, Claustro dos Filippes
93.Lisbon, São Vicente de Fora }
246
94." " " Interior
95.Coimbra, Sé Nova }
250
96." Misericordia
97.Vianna do Castello, Misericordi 254
98.Oporto, N. S. da Serra do Pilar, Cloister }
258
99.Coimbra, Sta. Cruz, Sacristy
100.Mafra, West Front }
266
101." Interior of Church
MAP OF PORTUGAL
INTRODUCTION
No one can look at a map of the Iberian Peninsula without being struck by the curious way in which it is unequally divided
between two independent countries. Spain occupies by far the larger part of the Peninsula, leaving to Portugal only a narrow strip on
the western seaboard some one hundred miles wide and three hundred and forty long. Besides, the two countries are separated the
one from the other by merely artificial boundaries. The two largest rivers of the Peninsula, the Douro and the Tagus, rise in Spain,
but finish their course in Portugal, and the Guadiana runs for some eighty miles through Portuguese territory before acting for a
second time as a boundary between the two countries. The same, to a lesser degree, is true of the mountains. The Gerez and the
Marão are only offshoots of the Cantabrian mountains, and the Serra da Estrella in Beira is but a continuation of the Sierra de Gata
which separates Leon from Spanish Estremadura. Indeed the only natural frontiers are formed by the last thirty miles of the Minho in
the north, by about eighty miles of the Douro, which in its deep and narrow gorge really separates Traz os Montes from Leon; by a
few miles of the Tagus, and by the Guadiana both before and after it runs through a part of Alemtejo.
If the languages of the two countries were radically unlike this curious division would be more easy to understand, but in reality
Castilian differs from Portuguese rather in pronunciation than in anything else; indeed differs less from Portuguese than it does from
[1]
Cataluñan.
During the Roman dominion none of the divisions of the Peninsula corresponded exactly with Portugal. Lusitania, which the poets
of the Renaissance took to be the Roman name of their country, only reached up to the Douro, and took in a large part of Leon and
the whole of Spanish Estremadura.
In the time of the Visigoths, a Suevic kingdom occupied most of Portugal to the north of the Tagus, but included also all Galicia
and part of Leon; and during the Moorish occupation there was nothing which at all corresponded with the modern divisions.
It was, indeed, only by the gradual Christian re-conquest of the country from the Moors that Portugal came into existence, and
only owing to the repeated failure of the attempt to unite the two crowns of Portugal and Castile by marriage that they have remained
separated to the present day.
Of the original inhabitants of what is now Portugal little is known, but that they were more Celtic than Iberian seems probable
from a few Celtic words which have survived, such as Mor meaning great as applied to the Capella Mor of a church or to the title of
