Polymers for personal care and cosmetics [based on an international symposium on "Polymers for Cosmetics and Personal Care" held at the 244th National ACS meeting in Philadelphia on August 22, 2012]

316 Pages·2013·6 MB·English

by  Anjali Patil

Polymers for Personal Care
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
1148
ACS SYMPOSIUM SERIES
Polymers for Personal Care
and Cosmetics
Anjali Patil, Editor
01 Revlon
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3- Michael S. Ferritto, Editor
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AmericanChemicalSociety,Washington,DC
DistributedinprintbyOxfordUniversityPress
In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Polymersforpersonalcareandcosmetics/AnjaliPatil,editor,Revlon,Edison,NewJersey,
1
00 MichaelS.Ferritto,editor,DowCorningCorporation,Midland,Michigan;sponsoredby
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48.f theApaCgSesDcimvis--ion(AoCfSPoslyymmpeorisciuMmasteerriiaelss;:1S1c4ie8n)ceandEngineering.
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1 Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.
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1 ISBN978-0-8412-2905-1(alk.paper)
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k-2 1. Cosmetics--Materials--Congresses.2. Polymers--Industrialapplications--Congresses.
1/b I.Patil,Anjali.II.Ferritto,MichaelS.
02 TP983.P682013
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oi: 2013041538
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Foreword
The ACS Symposium Series was first published in 1974 to provide a
mechanism for publishing symposia quickly in book form. The purpose of
the series is to publish timely, comprehensive books developed from the ACS
sponsoredsymposiabasedoncurrentscientificresearch. Occasionally,booksare
01 developed from symposia sponsored by other organizations when the topic is of
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Preface
Polymersareroutinelyusedinmanypersonalcareandcosmeticproducts. The
applicationstakeadvantageofthevariouspropertiesofthesepolymerstoimpart
uniquebenefitstotheirformulations. Therangeofpropertiesisasvariedasthe
class of polymers that have been utilized. Using polymers, cosmetic chemists
01 can create high performance products. Broad spectrums of polymers — natural
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pr polymers,syntheticpolymers,organicpolymersaswellassilicones—areusedin
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14 awiderangeofcosmeticandpersonalcareproductsasfilm-formers,emulsifiers,
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3- thickeners,modifiers,protectivebarriers,andaestheticenhancers.
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20 Developmentofleadingedgeproductsrequiresbetterchemicalandphysical
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b properties that cannot be provided by traditionally used, naturally-derived
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02 raw ingredients such as fats, oils, and waxes. Many valuable, new cosmetic
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0. ingredients come from broad polymer classes such as cellulosics, polyacrylates,
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oi: polyamides, polyurethanes, polyolefins, and silicones. Today, polymers can be
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3 | custom engineered to produce desired end objectives, and can be manufactured
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0 economicallyonacommercialscaletodeliversuchperformanceonaconsistent,
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5, predictable, and reproducible basis. Molecular weights can be tailored to
ber formulation requirements. Thermal and mechanical properties can be “tuned
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ce in” as needed. Classical chemical properties such as surface activity, solubility,
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eb): designedinapreciseandcontrolledmanner.
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at Cosmetics and Personal Care” held at the 244th National ACS Meeting in
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To our knowledge, this is the first compilation of progress made in the use of
polymersincosmeticsandpersonalindustry.
This book comprises a collection of papers presented in the symposium as
wellasseveralreviewchapters. Topicsinthisbookhavebeendividedintothree
sections as follows: Part 1 contains reviews focused on polymers described in
this book, polymers used in colored cosmetic products, and organo functional
silicones; Part 2 is dedicated to new synthetic methods and strategies; and Part
3isfocusedonnovelapplicationsofsyntheticpolymers.
In the synthetic portion of the book (Part 2), there are seven chapters.
Some chapters discuss specific approaches to controlling molecular architecture
and other chapters prepare novel polymeric structures. For example, polymer
structurescanbecontrolledusingfreeradicalmethodsinordertoprepareunique
aqueous rheology modifiers or to create copolymers with unique properties.
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Additionally, novel materials prepared by combining poly(alphaolefins) with
diphenylamine and polymers, novel cationic latex materials, and polymers with
uniquepersonalcareattributesthatarealsobiodegradablearediscussedaswell.
Therearechaptersonstructure-propertyrelationshipaswellasonnon-penetrating
polymerizedsurfactants.
The third part of the book consists of seven chapters, too. It highlights
novelapplicationsofmaterialsthatmaynotbetypicallyassociatedwithpersonal
care products. Such polymers include acetylene-based polymers, alkylacrylate
cross-polymers,styrene/acrylatecopolymers,andsilicones. Therearealsosome
chapters that discuss other interesting applications of materials by utilizing
the enhanced performance they impart to personal care (e.g., ion permeable
microcapsulesandapolymeradsorptionmodel).
1 Thisbookwillbeagoodresourceforthoseinvolvedinthefieldofpersonal
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pr0 careandcosmeticswhowanttolearnofrecentdevelopments. Additionally,this
8. bookwillbenefitthereaderthatwouldliketobecomeacquaintedwiththevariety
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1 ofpolymericsystemsthatcanbeusedinpersonalcareproductsandcosmetics.
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01 The editors thank the Division of Polymeric Materials: Science and
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k- Engineeringfortheirsupportofthesymposiumonwhichthisbookisbased. We
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1/ wish to thank all of the authors for their cooperation and for their high quality
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1 chapters. Finally,wethankTimMarney,ArleneFurmanandRachelDearyfrom
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Editors’ Biographies
Dr. Anjali Patil
AnjaliPatil(Ph.D.)isaSeniorScientistatRevlonInc. Shehasbeenworking
atRevlonforthelast20years. Herworkinvolvessynthesisanduseofpolymers
invariousaspectsofcosmeticproducts.
1 Anjali obtained her Ph.D. from the Indian Institute of Technology, Bombay
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ot (India) in polymer chemistry and has done her post-doctoral research at the
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4 UniversityofIllinoisatUrbana-ChampaigninOrganicChemistry(Dr. DavidY.
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3- Curtin) and also at the Institute for Polymers and Organic Solids, University of
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0 California,SantaBarbara(Dr. FredWudl).
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bk- ShehasbeenamemberofACSforthepast22years. Shehasattendedand
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2 chairedsessionsattheNationalACSmeetings. SheisamemberoftheSocietyof
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0. CosmeticChemists. Shehaspublished9scientificpapers,issued14U.S.patents,
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01 Chemists. Herresearchinterestsareinsynthesisandapplicationofpolymers.
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5, Anjali successfully organized the symposium sponsored by the PMSE
ber division entitled ‘Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics” at the fall 2012
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employedattheDowChemicalCompany.
MichaelobtainedhisPh.D.fromtheUniversityofMassachusettsatAmherst
in organic chemistry and studied polymer synthesis and application of novel
polymers. He completed a post-doctoral fellowship at the Michigan Molecular
Institutewherehestudiedthesynthesisofnoveldendrimerpolymers
HehasbeenamemberofACSforthepast30years. Heisamemberofthe
Polymer Chemistry and Organic Chemistry Division of the ACS. He has issued
12patentsandpublished7papers. Hisresearchinterestisinthesynthesisofnew
polymersandintheapplicationoforganicchemistrytopolymericsystems.
Michael has co-organized (with Anjali Patil from Revlon) the symposium
sponsored by the PMSE division entitled ‘Polymers for Personal Care and
Cosmetics”atthefall2012ACSnationalmeeting.
©2013AmericanChemicalSociety
In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Chapter 1
Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics:
Overview
Anjali Patil*,1 and Michael S. Ferritto2
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0.1 Abstract
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01 cosmetic products. The applications take advantage of the
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National ACS Meeting in Philadelphia on August 22, 2012.
The aim of this book is to cover the many facets of polymers
used in cosmetics and personal care products and to bring
together researchers from industries and academic disciplines
from different countries. This overview chapter provides a
brief description of each chapter presented in this book and
is meant to provide the reader with an insight to the exciting
developmentsdescribedthroughout.
©2013AmericanChemicalSociety
In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.
Thereisnodenyingthatcosmeticsandpersonalcareproductsrepresentavery
largemarketforproductsthatprovideawiderangeofpropertiestotheconsumer.
Personalcareproductscanbeusedtoenhancetheappearanceofanindividual’s
skin, hair, nails or teeth. Makeup is generally used to even out skin tone, hide
blemishes,improveskin’sappearance,moisturizeandprotectfromUVraysatthe
sametime. Sunscreenproductsprotectfromsunandalsohaveanti-agingbenefits.
Nailpolishmakesnailslookprettyandprotectsthemtoo.
Personal care products can carry out their function as a cleansing aid while
oftenprovidinganadditionalbenefitthatcanlastwellafterthecleansinghastaken
place. Theycanalsoprovideprotectionintheformofanantiperspirant/deodorant
and often include perfumes that impart a nice smell. These products can also
providemuchmorethanjustanaestheticsensoryeffect. Cosmeticscanbeusedto
1 helpbuildtheself-esteemforanindividualthathasamedicalconditionthatcan
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h bemaskedbyusingtheseproducts. Itisquiteobviousthatthisclassofconsumer
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48. productscanhaveaverylargerangeofattributes. Consequently,awiderangeof
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0 Polymersrepresentoneclassofmaterialsthathavebeenusedasingredients
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3 | d certain class of polymers, the structural variations can also dictate what kinds
1 of properties are obtained. Features such as the degree of polymerization, the
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er dramaticimpactonthefinalperformanceattributes. Ifthecopolymersarerandom
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We incosmeticsandpersonalcareproducts.
e ( A large number of thickeners, mostly polymers, are used in the cosmetic
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atio formulation but also influence application of the product, water sensitivity of
blic the formulation, and delivery of the active ingredients. Natural and synthetic
Pu ingredientsareusedasthickenersforawater-basedsystem. Anhydroussystems

combineoneormorefatty“structuringagents”(e.g. naturalorsyntheticwaxes,
lanolin, long-chain fatty alcohols, triglycerides etc.) to impart structural rigidity
and to facilitate mold release by contracting slightly upon cooling. Synthetic
waxes are either mixtures of long chain hydrocarbons primarily derived from
petroleum or synthesized from monomers like ethylene, vinyl acetate, vinyl
pyrrolidoneororganicallymodifieddimethicones.
Polymers play a role of rheology modifier in cosmetics and personal care
products. Often these products are prepared using water based formulations,
and are typically low in viscosity. This is where the polymers are added
to thicken and in many cases gel the formulation. To increase viscosity
of water-based systems sometimes natural polymers are utilized such as
polysaccharides,starch,xanthangum,guargum,carrageenan,alginates,pectines,
gelatin, agar etc (3). Occasionally, natural polymers are modified for personal
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In Polymers for Personal Care and Cosmetics; Patil, A., et al.;
ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2013.