Table Of ContentCopyright © 2007 by Peter Reinhart
Photography © 2007 by Ron Manville
Photographs here by Hazen Hunter
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Reinhart, Peter.
Peter Reinhart’s whole grain breads : new techniques, extraordinary flavor / Peter Reinhart; photography by Ron Manville.
p. cm.
Includes index.
1. Bread. 2. Cookery (Cereals) I. Title.
TX769.R41875 2007
641.8’15—dc22 2007106660
eISBN: 978-1-60774-130-5
Cover design by Nancy Austin
The wheat diagram is used with permission from the
Wheat Foods Council.
v3.1
This book is dedicated to my wife, Susan, who understood how hard this book would
be to write, who got me through it, gave me time, space, and patience, and kept me
sane. And to our oldest cat, Lily, who considered herself executive editor of all late
night typing sessions, keeping me company and occasionally deleting passages with
her head as it rested on the keyboard.
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INTRODUCTION
I. FOLLOWING THE FLAVOR: A BREAD BAKER’S JOURNEY BACK TO
WHOLE GRAINS
II. FROM WHEAT TO EAT: A TUTORIAL
The Life and Times of Wheat
The Anatomy of a Wheat Kernel
The Twelve Stages of Bread Revisited
Enzymes
The Secret Life of Dough
III. THE THEORY AND PROCESS OF DELAYED FERMENTATION
Making the Pre-doughs
Making the Final Dough
Master Formula
Techniques for Forming Traditional Bread Shapes
IV. THE BREADS
GLOSSARY
RESOURCES
INDEX
THE BREADS
ENRICHED BREADS
100% Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread
Transitional Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread
Multigrain Struan
Transitional Multigrain Sandwich Bread
Oat Bran Broom Bread
Rye Sandwich Meteil
Rye Sandwich Seigle
Transitional Rye Sandwich Bread
Potato Onion Rye Meteil
Potato Rosemary Bread
Anadama Bread
Whole Wheat Cinnamon Raisin Bread
Whole Wheat Cinnamon Buns
Transitional Cinnamon Raisin Bread (and Buns)
Whole Wheat Challah
Transitional Challah
HEARTH BREADS
Whole Wheat Hearth Bread
Transitional Country Hearth Bread
Multigrain Hearth Bread
Transitional Multigrain Hearth Bread
High-Extraction Flour Miche
Three Rye Hearth Bread Variations
Transitional Rye Hearth Meteil
Transitional Rye Hearth Seigle
SPECIALTY BREADS
Power Bread
Whole Wheat and Sprouted Grain Bread
100% Sprouted Grain Bread
Whole Wheat Mash Bread
Multigrain Mash Bread
Steamed Boston Brown Bread
Spent-Grain Bread
INTERNATIONAL BREADS
Transitional German-Style Many Seed Bread
Whole Wheat Brioche
Vollkornbrot
Bavarian Pumpernickel
Hutzelbrot with Dried Fruit
Swedish Limpa Rye Bread
Santa Lucia Buns
Hapanleipä and Vorterkaker
Julekage, Panettone, and Stollen
BAGELS AND FLATBREADS
Whole Wheat, Multigrain, and Pumpernickel Bagels
Whole Wheat Focaccia
Transitional Rustic Bread and Focaccia
Whole Wheat and Multigrain Pizza Dough
Whole Wheat Pita Bread
Whole Wheat Naan
Chapatis, Parathas, and Roti
Injera
CRACKERS
Whole Wheat Matzo
Lavash
Thin Wheat Crackers
Seeded Crackers
Graham Crackers
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
First of all, there are nearly 350 recipe testers that must be thanked again and again.
The passion, perseverance, and dedication of these home bakers is the secret
ingredient of this book. I will list them all at the end of this section, but want to
acknowledge you all, as a group, right up-front.
In addition, there are many people and companies who lent their expertise and
ingredients to my research. Thank you to Susan Miller, Jeffrey Hamelman, and the
King Arthur Flour Company, as well as Paula LaBine and Tim Huff of General Mills.
Both companies contributed many pounds of white wheat flour for testing as well as
technical consulting from Jeffrey and Tim. Bill Weekly, who was the technical baker
at SAF Yeast for nearly two decades and who has been one of my main go-to
consultants for years, was, yet again, there for me when I needed him. A number of
cereal chemists from the American Institute of Baking were also very helpful,
explaining to me the challenges of whole grain baking in layman’s language. Thank
you to the Wheat Council for providing the wheat kernel graphic. Jeff and Janet
Ganoung, of Great Harvest Breads of Charlotte, who not only wrote an excellent essay
on the nutritional benefits of whole grains but also supplied me with freshly milled
wheat and whole wheat kernels. Monica Spiller, Jennifer Lapidus, Debra Wink, and
Emily Buehler also contributed extensive bread science essays, background stories,
and research but we just ran out of pages to include them here (see the resources for
how to access their excellent and important essays).
The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the single greatest source of collective
artisan and craft baking knowledge in America and without its generous members, like
Dave Miller, Michel Suas, Craig Ponsford, Didier Rosada, Abe Faber, Ciril Hitz,
Richard Miscovitch, Mitch Stamm, Gina Piccolina, and many others, I would know far
less than I do and would never have been able to connect the dots of my bread journey.
Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, under the leadership of
President Arthur Gallagher and Culinary Deans Karl Guggenmos, Peter Lehmuller,
and Wanda Copper, has been exceedingly generous and accommodating, allowing me
both time and space to complete this book and to test the formulas. My campus bread
baking colleagues, Chefs Harry Peemoeller, Jeff Alexander, and Sadruddin Abdullah
provided ongoing support and ideation. A special thanks to Chef Joseph Benedetto,
who spent many hours working up the nutritional analysis on his trusty ESHA program.
And to Laura Benoit for her sharp proofread.
Thanks also to Steve Bardwell and Gail Lunsford of Wake Robin Farm Breads in
Marshall, North Carolina, for organizing the annual Asheville Bread Festival, a
source of inspiration and key breakthroughs in the writing of this book.
Thanks to Jan Byers and folks at the Westeye Group in Charlotte for letting us use
their Wolf/Sub Zero kitchen showroom for many of our photo sessions.
A very special thank you to photographer Ron Manville for his tremendous
dedication, investment, and commitment to this project, and for his willingness to go
beyond the call of duty to intuit and create the kind of photos for this book that I’ve
been dreaming about for years.
Thank you to my classmates and the faculty at Queen University’s creative writing
MFA program for workshopping the opening chapter of this book and helping me
become a better writer.
Thanks also to my agent, Angela Miller, my legal advisor, Ted Grabowski, and to
my chiropractor, Dr. Ralph Burris, who kept me functional when my back wanted to
quit (and almost did).
Finally, enormous thanks to the wonderfully patient and collaborative creative team
at Ten Speed Press who offered the full resources of their publishing house to evoke
the full potential of this book: Owner Phil Wood; Publisher Lorena Jones; Editorial
Director Aaron Wehner; my tireless editor, Meghan Keeffe; Art Director Nancy
Austin; and Publicist Lisa Regul. Thank you also to Jasmine Star, Mike Ashby, and
Ken DellaPenta for excellent copyediting, proofreading, and indexing, respectively.
Again, thank you to the following recipe testers around the world, many of whom
who helped identify problems with early prototypes and bring about the breakthroughs
that are presented in this book. I hope to meet each of you and thank you personally:
Peter Achleitner, Kirsi Allison-Ampe, Alice Ammons, D.J. Anderson, Burleigh
Angle, Annie Angle, Raj B. Apte, Pedro Arellano, Michael Arnoldi, Deb Arsenault,
Christine Ashburn, James Bairey, Stefan Baumann, Deborah Bede, Gilles Belin, Ina
Bellmann, Barbara Bendix, Carla Benedict, Jim Bennett, Irene Bensinger, Barb
Blackmore, Mary Blender, Gea Blok, Carla Bone, Jane Borden, Malcolm Boshier,
Craig Broderson, Carlton Brooks, Bonni Brown, Diane Brown, Doris Bruntel, Ruth
Brutz, Ian Buchanon, Steve Buckner, Sylvia Burgos, Dawn Burstyn, Lucy Burton,
Amanda Butter field, Michele Caplan, Bryan Carmenati, Mary Cassidy, Karen Chen,
Dana Chiu, Ken Chomic, David Chow, Donna Clancy, Julie Clawson, Jim Clayton,
Allen Cohn, Carol Beth Coleman, Sylvia Conard, Kevin Contzen, Margaret Cope, Ann
Cornelius, Diane Cotton, Keith Craig, Lori Crews, Bill and Leisel Cruise, Ray
D’Esposito, Christine Dalrymple, Lisa Danchak-Martin, Carolyn Dandalides, Jon
Davis, Matt Deatherage, Cindy DeCesare, Andre de Graaf, G. Owen Delaney, Robert
C. Dempsey, Arthur Denys, Kathy Destadio, Nancy DeVries, Darci DeWulf, John
DeYoung, Aranka Dol, Pat Doucette, John Dougherty, Lisa Downing, Pauline Dysko,
Barbara Edwards, Karina Egloff, Tony Ernst, Adila Esbhani, Arlene Etzold, Jeff
McBride, Jill Farrimond, Pat Fields, Natalie Fine, Laura Fischer, Carol Fisher,
