Table Of ContentThe Raw Materials of Perfumery
Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps
VOLUME I The Raw Materials of Perfumery
W. A. POUCHER
Revised by
GEORGE M. HOWARD
Seventh Edition
London
CHAPMAN AND HALL
First published 1923
Second edition 1925
Third edition 1930
Fourth edition 1936
Fifth edition 1941
Reprinted once
Sixth edition 1959
Seventh edition 1974
Chapman and Hall Ltd
11 New Fetter Lane London EC4P 4EE
ISBN-13: 978-94-009-5693-3 e-ISBN-13: 978-94-009-5691-9
DOl: 10.1007/978-94-009-5691-9
© G. M. Howard, W. A. Poucher 1974
Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1s t edition 1974
All rights reserved. No part of this book
may be reprinted, or reproduced or utilized in
any form or by any electronic, mechanical or
other means, now known or hereafter invented,
including photocopying and recording, or in
any information storage and retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the
Publisher
Distributed in the U.S.A.
by Halsted Press, a Division
of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 74-8885
UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME
w. A. Poucher's
Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps
Volume II The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes
Volume III Modern Cosmetics
Preface to the seventh edition
It is now fifteen years since the last edition of this reference volume
appeared and during this time new materials have appeared and
some have fallen into disuse. The present edition is the result of
much revision and some deletion and an effort has been made to
bring the information up-to-date and in conformity with current
practice.
Of recent years several speciality materials have appeared, and a
number of these are included where their chemical composition is
known. Speciality materials of vague composition are not included.
For many of the compounds listed several alternative names are in
use, some of which from the chemist's point of view are either
inadequate, ambiguous, or occasionally actually misleading. In this
edition the compounds have been listed under names which are
considered to be chemically satisfactory and which, at the same
time, should be reasonably familiar to perfumers; they do not
necessarily contain full information as to the structure of the com-
pound and they make free use of widely accepted trivial names.
In most of the entries this is followed by a systematic name which
defines the chemical structure, while synonyms which are in use,
though sometimes chemically unsatisfactory, are given in brackets,
with a cross-reference to the main entry.
Prefixes denoting structural features, such as n-, iso-, cis-, trans-,
0-, m-, p-, and so on are disregarded in the alphabetical listing.
Where appropriate, however, a second entry may be made in the
alphabetical position corresponding to the prefix with a cross-
VB
Vlll PERFUMES, COSMETICS AND SOAPS
reference to the main entry. Prefixes denoting number (for which
the Greek-derived mono-, di-, tri-, etc. are used rather than their
Latin equivalents) are on the other hand regarded as forming an
integral part of the word and are thus of alphabetical significance.
Subsidiary entries with cross-references are made where this is
fel t to be useful.
The systematic naming follows established chemical practice,
but as this is not completely uniform the following is a brief
account of the principles adopted.
Acyclic compounds are usually named as derivatives of the
longest unbranched hydrocarbon chain contained within their
structure. The carbon atoms in the chain are numbered from one
end; if one of the terminal atoms carries a functional group, this
is normally designated' 1'. The positions of functional groups and
other structural features are indicated by the appropriate numeral
immediately preceding the verbal element which designates it; thus
iso-Propanol is named 'propan-2-01' rather than '2-propanol' or
'propanol-2 '. In the case of double or triple bonds, denoted by the
elements '-en-' and '-yn-', the numeral refers to the lower-numbered
of the pair of carbon atoms between which the bond exists. The
names of normal carboxylic acids are derived from those of the
normal hydrocarbons having the same number of carbon atoms by
replacing the final "e' by '-oic acid', e.g. 'n-pentanoic acid' (= n-valeric
acid); exceptions are acetic and formic acids. In carboxylic acids
and aldehydes, the carbonyl carbon is assigned the numeral '1', so
that for example lactic acid becomes '2-hydroxypropanoic acid'.
In disubstituted benzene derivatives, the familiar prefixes 0-, m-,
and p-, are used to indicate the relative positions of the substituents;
with three or more substituents, however, numbers are used to avoid
ambiguity. In polycyclic and heterocyclic compounds, the rings are
numbered according to current Chemical Abstracts practice.
The physical data given in the original edition have been revised
and supplemented. Those left unaltered are indicated by an asterisk
(*).
Melting and boiling points are given in degrees Centigrade. Unless
otherwise specified, the boiling points are at atmospheric pressure
(760 mm Hg); for those determined at other pressures the latter are
given in mm Hg following the temperature figure (e.g. 116/50 indi-
cates a boiling point of 116°C at 50 mm Hg).
Densities and specific gravities are given wherever possible with
PREFACE IX
the relevant temperature conditions (e.g. 1.093715 indicates the
specific gravity at 15°C relative to water at 4°C). Values within
the temperature range IS-25°C have been selected as far as possible.
The reference water temperature is 4°C when possible, the value
then being identical with the density in g/ml. Some values are
quoted with no subscript, in which case it is assumed that the value
is a density in glml at ambient temperature.
Additions and revisions are confined to materials in use of general
interest to the perfumer and cosmetic chemist following the original
conception of their author.
The author thanks his colleagues for helpful criticism and particu-
larly Mr P. L. Williams M.A.(Oxon.), F.R.I.e., for his invaluable
help in revising the chemical formulae and the arduous task of com-
piling the latest physical data.
G. M. Howard
43 Windmill Way
l'ring, Herts
Contents
Preface page vii
A dictionary of the raw materials of perfumery 1
Plate 1 View of plant used for steam distillation of
clove oil. 117
Plate 2 Complex of reactors used for preparation of
perfumery raw materials. 177
Plate 3 View of a distillation plant used for the
clarification of essential oil. 216
Plate 4 Cleaning out a still used for Spike Lavender
in the Cuena district of Spain. 224
Plate 5 View of stainless steel storage tanks. 259
Plate 6 View of a modern perfumery distillation
plant. 329
Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps
Abies Oils-see under Pine Needle Oils.
Abir. An aromatic powder containing curcuma, cardamom,
cloves, sandalwood, etc., used by the Hindus.
Absinthe Oil-see Wormwood.
Absolutes. Flower products of maximum concentration, which
represent the whole of the perfume without natural waxes, etc.
The general method of preparation is as follows: the flowers are
extracted by means of petroleum ether or other volatile solvent, in
a closed apparatus. These are placed in series and the solvent runs
through, finally reaching a vacuum still where it is distilled off at a
low pressure and returned to the solvent tank to be used again. The
product left behind in the retort consists of the perfume together
with the natural and insoluble vegetable wax and pigments, and is
known as Concrete. The concretes are shaken in special machines
with strong alcohol and the insoluble wax separated. The alcoholic
solution is then cooled to below zero with the separation of any
dissolved wax, this being removed by filtration. The isolation of the
perfume from this filtered alcoholic solution is a delicate and diffi-
cult matter as high temperatures have a deleterious influence on the
odour. It is accomplished, however, by distillation at a low temper-
ature in vacuo when the absolute essence is left behind in the retort.
The addition of brine solution to the alcoholic extract will cause
the separation of the absolute, which may be skimmed off as it
1
