Peaks and Lamas: A Classic Book on Mountaineering, Buddhism and Tibet

496 Pages·2004·56.248 MB·English

by  Marco Pallis

PEAKS AND LAMA
TO
THE FOUR LAMAS
THE HERMIT ABBOT OF LACHHEN
THE LAMA DAWA, BURSAR OF SPITUK
THE LAMA-PAINTER, KONCHHOG GYALTSAN OF P’HIYANG
THE LAMA WANGYAL, OF DREPUNG, LHASA
Who for my benefit and for the good of all creatures
set in motion the Wheel of the Doctrine
THIS BOOK
IS REVERENTLY DEDICATED

PEAKS AND LAMAS
By
MARCO PALLIS
,
With one plate in colour, ninety-five
photogravure illustrations and three
• maps
j «2r
£ 'X
CASSELL
AND COMPANY LIMITED
LONDON, TORONTO, MELBOURNE
AND SYDNEY
FIRST EDITION OCTOBER 1939
SECOND EDITION FEBRUARY I94O
THIRD (REVISED) EDITION JUNE 1942
FOURTH EDITJfON JANUARY 1946
PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY
JARROLD AND SONS LIMITED,
THE EMPIRE PRESS, NORWICH
845
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTORY NOTES XV
PART ONE
GANGES AND SATLEJ—1933
I THE BIRTH OF AN EXPEDITION 3
H THE PILGRIM WAY TO GANGOTR1 18
III PORTERS AND SAHIBS 27
IV CENTRAL SATOPANT’H (BY C. F, KIRKUS) 40
V THE GANGES-SATLEJ WATERSHED 50
VI THE HINDUSTAN-TIBET ROAD 68
VII RIWO PARGYUL 83
VIH “BACK TO CIVILIZATION” 96
PART TWO
SIKKIM—1986
IX THE ANTECHAMBER OF TIBET 107
X DEFEAT ON SIMVU 126
XI THE ROUND OF EXISTENCE 143
XII THE HERMIT AND THE PILGRIM 178
XIII OF MISSIONARIES AND MOTHS 194
V
VI CONTENTS
PART THREE
LADAK—1986
XIV KASHMIR AND PURIG 207
XV KARGIL TO YURU *. SYMBOLISM OF THE TANTRA 231
XVI “ IF I FORGET THEE 0 JERUSALEM ” 254
XVII THE BURSAR OF SPITUK 269
XVIII LEH 286
XIX “ WHERE RUST DOTH CORRUPT ” 299
XX THE PAINTER OF P’HIYANG AND SPITUK DEBATES 814
XXI PAINTING LESSONS AND LEAVE-TAKINGS 827
PART FOUR
AFTERTHOUGHTS
XXII THE PRESENT STATE OF TIBETAN ART 343
XXin TIBETAN ART (CONTINUED) — ITS CONNEXIONS
WITH THE DOCTRINE 867
XXIV TIBETAN ART—DANGERS AHEAD 382
XXV EDUCATION IN THE BORDERLANDS 394
EPILOGUE 419
INDEX
425
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
“if i forget thee o Jerusalem” Frontispiece
HALT ON A PASS IN THE FOOTHILLS facing pagC 22
HINDU TEMPLE AT UTTARKASHI 28
SCAVENGERS AT WORK 28
GORGE SCENERY ON THE PILGRIM ROUTE 80
A FRIENDLY JADH 31
COOKHOUSE GROUP 31
DEODAR CEDAR 88
SATOPANT’h PEAKS 89
HIGH BIVOUAC 40
CENTRAL SATOPANT’H 41
BIRCHWOOD CAMP 62
STTEPHttUX) BOYS IN THE BASPA VALLEY 62
SATLEJ GORGE SCENERY 68
NAMGYAL GF POO 82
RIWO PARGYUL : SOUTH PEAK 88
RIWO PARGYUL : NORTH PEAK 88
PAINTED CEILING OF A VILLAGE GATEWAY 102
WANDERING LAMAS SERENADE US 102
“ INCOMPARABLE MONUMENTS OF MUGHAL ART ” 108
LOOKING ACROSS THE FOOTHILLS FROM KALIMPONG 120
DR. GRAHAM OF KALIMPONG 120
TIBETAN T’HANKA 121
LACHHEN 182
EARLY SPRING IN ZEMU VALLEY 188
vii