Table Of ContentPast and Present Trends
~ID1
Fashion Technology
Edited by:
Peter McClaud
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ABHISHEK
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
form, electronically or otherwise, in print, photoprint, micro film or
by any other means without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-81-8247-352-2
Copyright Publisher
Revised Edition 2010
Published by
ABHISHEK PUBLICATIONS,
S.C.O. 57-59, Sector 17-C,
CHANDIGARH-1600 17 (India)
Ph.-2707562,Fax-OI72-2704668
Email: [email protected]
Preface
The book in your hands presents a genuine attempt to make the
reader aware of not only the current fashion trends, but takes the
reader through a detailed history of fashion and how the modern
day fashion evolved. Mostl); people find the glamorous world of
fashion as av,·esome. Most would agree that they are fascinated
by the world of fashion at some point or the another in life.
So what fashion actually is? Why are people fascinated by the world
of fashion? What is it that attracts them towards it? And why are
only a few able to be successful as models and designers? What's
the secret behind their success?
The book not only tries to answer all these questions but also
makes the user aware of a number of aspects of the world of
fashion. Even the technological aspects such as stiching and com
puter aided designing are presented in a logical manner in the
book.
The reader will get to know tlut fashion is not limited to models
and designers only, but there are other skills such as stitching,
embroidery and working as a computer designer that go design
ing clotl1es. Who knows you might get an idea for your future
profession after reading the book?
"This page is Intentionally Left Blank"
Contents
1. What is Fashion? ................................................................ 7
2. Fashion: Past and Present ................................................ 19
3. Fabrics .............................................................................. 32
4. Cloths and Clothing ......................................................... 56
5. Stitching & Embroidery ................................................. 162
6. Designs & Patterns ........................................................ 180
7. The Future Fashion Trends & Technology ..................... 184
8. Designers & Their Contributions .................................. 198
"This page is Intentionally Left Blank"
(iHAPIER
1
What is Fashion?
The term fashion symbolises a
characteristic means of expression or
presentation. Fashions may follow
trends, in which they gain or lose
popularity.
'Fashion' is also a verb meaning to make
into a required form. Fashions are social
psychology phenomena common to
many fields of human activity and
thinking. Although that concept
frequently applies to clothes and other
aspects of appearance, it can apply also
to:
• music, art, politics, philosophy,
• and even to mathematics, the choice of programming tech
ruques,
• and also economic trends, such as those studied in behavioural
finance, and soon.
Fashion exists in the intricacies of aesthetics with innovation,
coupled with pleasing details.
Fashion is a style that is popular at a particular time, especially in .
clothes, hair, make-up.
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~ Past and Present Trends in Fashion Technology
According to Webster's, Fashion is 'the make or form of
something; an often personal manner or way; mode of action or
operation; a prevailing custom, usage, or style; the prevailing style
(as in dress) during a particular time; a garment in such a style;
social standing or prominence esp. as signalized by dress or
conduct'.
Fashion, in dress, is the prevailing mode affecting modifications
in costume. Styles in Asia have been characterized by freedom
from change, and ancient Greek and Roman dresses preserved
the same flowing lines for centuries. Fashion in dress and interior
decoration may be said to have originated in Europe about the
14th century New styles were set by monarchs and prominent
personages and were spread by travellers, by descriptions in letters,
and, in costume, by the exchange of the fashion doll. The first
tashion magazine is thought to have originated c.1586 in Frankfurt,
German)~ It was widely imitated, gradually superseding fashion
dolls. Godey's LadyJs Book) brought out in the United States in
1830, re.mained popular for decades. In interior decoration, the
influence ofd esigners, such as Chippendale, Sheraton, and Robert
and James Adam, was apparent by the 18th century, but in cosnune,
the only influential designer at that period was Rose Bertin, Milliner
and dressmaker to Marie Antoinette.
In Paris-the leading arbiter of fashion since the Renaissance
the fading influence of celebrities was coincident with the rise of
designer-dres~ers in the mid-19th century. Paris haute couture
has remained preer'b.inent in setting fashions for women's dress.
Designers such as Charles Frederick Worth, Coco Chanel, Lucien
Lelong, Elsa Schiaparelli, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior,
and Yves Saint Laurent have had their fashion houses in Paris. In
the latter part of the 20th century, such American designers as
Norman Norell, Mainbocher, James Galanos, Bill Blass, and
Pauline Trigere competed successfully with Parisian designers.
London, in the early 19th century, became the centre for men's
fashions under the leadership of Regency dandies such as Beau
Brummell. In the mid-1960s, London was again a centre offashion
influence.
II What is Fashion? 911
The 1970s and 80s saw the beginning of more divergent trends in
fashion. This was the result of the increasing popularity of ready
to-wear collections by major designers, which made fashionable
people label-conscious. Ethnic-inspired looks and the punk style
enjoyed a period of popularity. Successful clothing designers such
as Ralph Lauren, Georgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Jean-Paul
Gaultier, Rei Kawakubo, and Geoffrey Beene widened their design
horizons, licensed their names, and put their distinctive marks on
objects ranging from furniture to cars, fabric, and perfumes. The
look of luxuriance that emerged in the 1980s was countered in
the 1990s with the production of classic understated clothes.
Fashions are adapted for mass production by the garment
industries of New York, Los Angeles, and other cities.
Cyberpunk Fashion
Cyberpunk fashion is a modern fashion movement seen mostly in
underground night clubs. Influences are predominately taken from
tl1e post-industrial, post-modern, and particularly cyberpw1k film
and fashion.
Some common tl1emes are: tl1e contrast ofb lack or white combined
with bright colours, brightly coloured and often 'extended' hair
(e.g., dreadlocks or braids), very large shoes or boots (e.g., brands
including New Rock, Swear, and Transmuter), luminous or UV
reactive materials, various forms ofb ody modification, the presence
of superfluous goggles (especially aviator-style), and androgynous
appearances. It is not unusual to see a cyberpunk wearing circuit
board jewellery.
Cyberprep is a derogatory term used to refer to yuppie trends
that reflect tl1e flip side of cyberpunk fashion.
Locations
Cyberdog, a clothing shop in Camden Market, London, is probably
the best-known exponent of this look in the region.
Much of the culture centres arOlmd nightlife or the internet; in
the United Kingdom, the former is provided by clubs such as the
