On cooking : a textbook of culinary fundamentals

1217 Pages·2019·165.784 MB·English

by  Priscilla Martel, Sarah R. Labensky, Alan M. Hause

On Cooking
A TEXTBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS | SIXTH EDITION
SARAH R. LABENSKY | ALAN M. HAUSE | PRISCILLA A. MARTEL
On Cooking
SIXTH EDITION
Approach and Philosophy of
On Cooking
The sixth edition of On Cooking follows the model established in previous editions,
which have prepared thousands of students for successful careers in the culinary arts by
building a strong foundation based on sound fundamental techniques. Students and
instructors alike have praised On Cooking for its comprehensive yet accessible coverage
of culinary skills and cooking procedures. Chapters focus on six areas that are essential to
a well-rounded culinary professional:
➊ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field and feature
material on food history, food safety and menu planning. Updated food safety infor-
mation reflects the most recent regulations. A new chapter on the basics of nutrition
emphasizes the nutritional impact of cooking.
➋ Preparation Chapters cover the core subjects all culinary students should be familiar
with before stepping into the kitchen. Equipment, basic knife skills and mise en place
concepts are explained and illustrated. Staple ingredients, such as dairy products,
herbs and spices as well as flavor profiles are also presented in this section.
➌ Cooking These chapters explain and then demonstrate fundamental cooking tech-
niques with a wide range of recipes. Individual chapters focus on different categories
of key ingredients such as meats, poultry, fish, eggs and vegetables.
➍ Garde Manger These chapters cover kitchen preparations including salads, sandwich
making, charcuterie and hors d’oeuvre preparations. Material is of sufficient depth to
support a complete unit on garde manger skills.
➎ Baking These chapters cover a range of classic and contemporary breads and pastries
that every culinary student should know. The material is sufficient to support a stand-
alone unit on breads and dessert preparation.
➏ Presentation Revised chapters on plate and buffet presentation demonstrate tradi-
tional and contemporary techniques for enhancing the visual presentation of food.
The basics of buffet setup and management are also included in this section.
UPDATES
More than 225 new photographs and illustrations clearly show core techniques, equipment
and foods.
A new Nutrition chapter complements the revised Healthy Cooking and Special Diets
chapter, which now includes expanded information on health-related and vegetarian diets.
Content updates, including new recipes, reflect current trends while a new Basic Proce-
dure feature helps students understand and compare core cooking techniques. Expanded
coverage of curing and smoking, sous vide cooking and principles of vegetable cookery
show students modern cooking techniques widely used in professional kitchens.
New discussions on sustainability and environmental concerns encourage students to
consider the impact of their food choices.
Learning objectives, end-of chapter Questions for Discussion and margin definitions
are fully linked to competencies required by the American Culinary Federation.
At-a-glance cooking technique callouts highlight core principles, equipment, ingre-
dients and steps. Function of Ingredients sidebars reinforce the science of cooking and
baking and explain the uses for certain bakery ingredients.
A greatly enhanced support package includes MyLab Culinary®, an online instruc-
tors’ manual featuring performance-based learning activities, an improved text bank and
lecture-based PowerPoint slides.
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Visual Guide for the Reader
FOOD SAFETY AND SANITATION 21
Easy to navigate, On Cooking is broken down into bite-size subsections as re-
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the flavor of On Cooking. FAT TOM
All bacteria need certain conditions in order to complete their life cycles. Like humans
and other living things, they need food, a comfortable temperature, moisture, the proper
The words FAT TOM can be useful in
pH, theH pAropLeLr MatmAosRphKer eF aEndA tTimUe. RThEe Sbest way to prevent bacterial Mi0n1_LtABoE1x900i_c06_aSEt_iCo01.inndds Pa gae 2n 03d/11/ 17 6:57 PM ganga /203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_CULINARY_FU ...
helping you remember the six conditions
infections is to attack the factors bacteria n1e6e d t o C sHuArvPiTvEeR a nOdN Emultiply.
that affect bacterial growth, as follows:
The following six conditions, which we will discuss in some detail in this section,
affect the growth of bacteria: example, personal c▶hefFso wodork in private homes cooking for a family or an individual.
Learning Objectives After studying this chapter,
you will bIne atebrlen taot:ional cruisLe l▶inikeAe sanc ya ifidnne idatrt y, pgrerait vcoaokteery ryeqauicresh tatsste aandls croea tievitmy, anp alpopryec iamtiona onf byea utcy ooks and chefs, as do
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Each chapter begins with clearly stated objectives ▶▶name key historical figures responsible ▶ edTgei amnd aen understanding of basic principles, and like any successful leader, today’s
▪▶ Acidity for develocpinug lfoiond aserrvyice professiopnrofaeslssio naml chaefy m usbt eexe rciesem soupndl joudygmeednt anbd bye cofmomoittded tom acahienvinug feaxceclletnucer ien rs or large restaurant
that enable you to focus on what you should pcoronftersibsiuotnigoanlirss moof auenadpc hdses criinbe thtee st kitchalle en▶ndesa,vTo rpse.rmodpuecrta rteusreearch and development, sensory evaluation labs and
▪▶ Taicmheieve by the end of the chapter. ▶▶list and demscriaber tkhee ketyi sntagges ind thee partmeThnist bso.o kG derscoricbees rfoyod ss atnod rcoeoski ngh eiqrueip mcenht, eexfpsla intso c uldinaeryv perinlocipples aannd d prepare home-meal
▪▶ Temperature dinedvuelsotrpymernet opf tlhae mcoedemrn feoond tse rvficoe odschoo owak▶eivnnegr d,t Oec cahncn xpioqyruongevsidd eaen nutda csptreto, vciidrneeas t-rivseicttiypo, ecsro uemsim ngdit mteheenmset aponridnn cjiupsdltegsrm aaenntdti .o tFeconhr nstihq.eu seeHs,. cNhooe fsbs poaonikdt, als and assisted-living
▶▶explain thre eorgsaindizaetionn cofe clsas sinc aondw hiortehe r tcrulainianry eprdofe scsiohnaelsf msu, sti rnely oand thdemitseilovesn. T htiso c harpetegr eixsptloererse thde r icdh iheisttoirtyi ans and nutrition spe-
▪▪▶▶ OMxoyisgtuenre ▶▶▶▶mibddeeoecsndcotremiirfbynee t akhti hctesceu aih citamectnerplis Abbosiufrsruittlgleatt ascnsde ucae,le isrs notnatufr odpyae rpn otrtfao einsfvceesesiocsdeinsoo a ntlo acm lamreofsleetfoaus estrdhind▶oiree an ssarb.,e owIsttMtue feaat ou hl tsrohotaroeph n o eqti u eutcisthnal iadultnitnuteu ilysestoei srtr unytheh eefaaai ndna td d(trwts yritwinilh bls eagup auitginnreiaddstrt ediiove aoyifd no rdtu iuhi ann euial n stpt hywacreeooh ttuhfroeeriies s civstnshoisofior lnttyus saeieyolnnn fc )c cothechadeerffl e .t f uehoArte.oshd ddy eeoesveueir lvrboiwe cpgemc inioenl nidytreou uoskntrfr itycth nuaselsi .gn pyaro oruy-f or food publications,
ethics for ichnefcs alnud dlisti ntheg sp ebcifoic oks, magazines and digital media, which need culinarians as writers, critics,
Chapter Introduction behaviors that all culinary professionals
Food should folrloewcipe developersp,C HfHo EaoF dmS AsetNayDlsius RtrsEe SmaTnAedUn RetA doNiftTo tSrhse. Yaociud morig ahltk aevlie cno mntoevnet into restaurant con-
BacteriCah naepetde rf oinotdr ofdoru cetnioerngsy saunmd mgraorwizteh tahned m thariinv e on foods that are refersarudelvdtain ntgco,e doa res d oupceanti ooCmcyfaonit looelae rkenusad nh sirntaaoo ,v detcohl h epuew refoostf,dxt nieuwoncph eeednelcta hfbr,ueooi ro reeldatiht nxenien ypdc a qibneurreian e,yngA t ss inytiyaseb noefed,ou usrNd osaa fs ti i movtnlhoee nne aAgwm syeaaeass rlti p fhcseaiyaonn cap,s nladEe d u l hapreoaoovnpw eepo e aernpfafeu t oelon;0nr a rAtnt–otrfdrgu1 ieecfoatnph4rn e,ci rr.et.h 0eniaFtevoun.er-s e utor . teWacithh inth ea pprroofpees-r
themes in each chapter and help reinforce topics. cookery the art, practice or work of cooking Ari eps, vHend oorsf i n7 C.h0in ai, sEu cropoe nansd iedlseewrheered h anvee suoldt rfoaodls oto rth eb paublliac nthact tehedy .
thiimghe ainn dp rtoetmeipn earnadtu irnec cluodnet raonlliemda fl-obra sseadfe tpyr o(dTuCcSts), fcoooodkse. dT ghreasien sf oaondds scsmoooouaolrkecicrenmu gtleoa (r 1a s)e tf trohugos ecd titu;rre ortaehan,insA nscf wehearnad eeonlrfggv ierynnc agaaea lurittngesnylr lt scfel irtxodnhyetmue radf eao, o rh fdleyae’asvt o drs, ucThcpmaohroetBospeitualoylr te ,lnFtd ohr oeet hnw irehcsm hise ,fst oeoaarlrnvy vrde t s oai hatfo iritvles hb aieo on bputpcegrlrHhoatewtf etf irn isoisvoemnidoan n owaltgahilut ehlacr hestsoh.e,fet r rihts oi hcsotnofoe roryme lmomaftm irvyeoeslu,tyar unerhrea cinoeattnyss—ct poifcordiilrgt aaioincns.ll isy It tteswyh isc,tah e.s ttt hoies urism, restaurant man-
cooked vegetables. These foods, and items containing these foods, muafosrootmd afo arb ncdo neaspuap megaphrtaeionancme;n (e2)d nthetl p,er ecpdaura tlioinn oaf rys deuexepvbneelctostreptdema etponn trp ceorofen drue.esc teuaT,u errhafsfniechtsie idnhputlryi i ngaagnh ndth edeec r loa rntteoe hm1l8iaecthat l elpayn,d dHd iefffa eirvrleeyan l1td l9dutshis .hec ee,sMn tatuta rhidenisef fyew rmee nrnet ootcihmnreefess- d egree programs offer
professional csoopkineg ca siyfstiecm otfr caooikningi bnasged foafrol krc daoiffleoirnekntes d iintnehrs e.su sbujebcsttsa ansc dei.verse as international cuisines, wine and spirits,
with great care. oennt sa aknndo wplreodcgefedi uonrfe asandn apcpireacila tiomn foar ningaredgi-emTehne t1 8atnh dC epntâutriys—seBroiuel.a nAg ecr’us Rliensataruiarann,t even one with many years of experi-
Margin Definitions▲ stage [stahzh] a brief, unpaid internship or ence, may work anT16ht eh u wcenonrdtpu rraeys, itatdhuer awsnott riads dgreesertiov,re adtl ifavreos mhta itdhn ebg eFer enfn ruchsoe wdm otord daree ssctfareiubrewe rr i(c “htdo a arnedys tohsrieg ”ht)lo.y S filnaacve o rtfheede w months, in a world-
Acidity training session in a professional kitchen; from class kitchen simpsflooyou dpsfs ooofrfre srettedhw asen dc a oppuaprbclhpea sooef drr etosuutotsnriidniegt tyhloe s tht oostmr eein ndguthcr.i nrRgee tsahtoissr apetei vriekosd,n loiokf ehw isatloll reoyt,h dwegre rceeo mo kaaednde d skills. Self-education
Important terms appear in the French stagiaire, meaning apprentice or should continue byby rgeuilad dm ie nm bge r si . nESadchu agsuitldrf yhea dp aut mboynloicp oAalyt ioonl nperesp,ar raingtt tae cnatedgoinry gof fcooodn itefmesr. ences and trade shows
Bacteria ththrieve m ina ragnin esn tvoir ohnemlpe nyot uw here itnhteern acidity and alkalinity are in balaanndc etr.a vpelHin g localFglouyril de sxa afmonrp dlreô, t idassuebruinrrgso (thwaeh droe .icg onIo onkfe tdHe elanrr nig rIVaos stoeif ovFiranannadceel , (rtht. re1 5am8v9a–ien16 lc1 u0at)s, ltohlfoe rmew ewates)r, e p ysâetopisasuriaert est o experience different
is a measumreamsteern tn oefw th tee ramciidn oolro aglky.ali content of a solution, expressed on a sccuaisliene os ffi r0st -hand,(ms wteaphwdoTese )c sraoahnhuodcka eeepsdop arptTnseod- uc ehbsltoarmymyp,e e sp ti(speactesa wkteaesnri,edr nri snat gacwlrut htsdco)ui, n lotgaarr gmssaoeinssmiizee eerD sdsr e( fsweitaoahnsrotas nt bitavahnegkdsee) ,cde e trlblrearobiet raecaZdutisrao)s,n ol (s vw)icn.nhauoie gmirsiaeidrnse (mewe haoat nd food culture.
to 14.0T. hAe rpeH i so fa 7h.0e lipsf ucol npshidoenreetdi cn eutral or balanced. The lower the pH valuIne ,s htohret, graduPaartTisihioaen nF trae vnefcrrhn o cklmaeiemp etrhc, aaut tMlhieon nfsiraiestur rmy Bo odsuerlcann hrgeeosrt,a ouhrualnn gti oas p seijgnuned sa dotvn eert tdhisainye gi nt bh1e7e 6s5agl ewi nohfe nnh iias ng of your education.
more acidic the substance. The higher the pH value, the more alkaline the suYboustra snpceeci.fic occsupepciaal treisotonrat ivme, aa dyish ocf hshaeenp gfeeet ino wrh itee svauocel. vHeis esdtabelipshmeenntd clionsedg s hoortnly personal desires and
Althougphr othneunyn occnaia-nEt isnougnrlv igsivhue i tdiener mafo swr. ider range, bacteria prefer aS naefuetrtayl eAnvleacirobroniltitntiinsmeus▲e,e fnlaemta rinlyi nnge elutaahmnedngrpeTreshdaraef htd wean driae nnasge s cd itotnvehufe ere riu tnomr leagnosnifundp elgp ttl aoxoeeitfenn pramr tgarlheaeewo tpciprysu uteeeoneitxre rcbdudelaru.o rsutdoi vgusehpa tk rrbipngeiyhl oagslt sg treoui.t i nrulsdAe lznwlw ohpitotrrhensiupee iaemesrcee . dhmi p sBbd eirmsaruohs e ctfsolb,.ae iBmswrsoetosud hli aoatohneagdfnter Bre a otrvlui --enre yvoeru swtooprsk ,l eyaorun inmgu.st
Boulanger’s establishment differed from the inns and taverns that had existed through-
with a pH of 6.6–7.5. Growth is usually halted if the pHB riise f4 .n6o oter sl ersesm. Aincdid yico ufo oodf s out tEuhroepe b foar ccentteurrieis.a T htehse aintns canad utasveern sf soerovedd f-oobdso prrenpaere d (usually off
premises) by the appropriate guild. The food—of which there was little choice—was
suuncfhav aosr albelme oenn vjuiriocen,m toenmt aftoore sb aanctde rviain. eSgimarp, lwy haidchd inhgasa vagaefene l toyyaow ccuiedo ritn copc Hieinnr gncvrosae lrdaupineeosdnr, tae cQttenroe Uc afofotEoeuoo Srdad-Tn s IONoicvnSoafgfrmei eriCsm etllyedFul e oonnbpfayi Ondlfe otgthoas eebad sclis Renc oespon.rm seofB pmr o Dattmuoarheldvadeanurt eIgionoen lnSar Ut’ssps irionceCp.rocm Sinddlitsrye.rUeiinn bs kt Fuart.otl aioCS otcounup os tshStttoooiedm d metIhe selretarOasy s b fwnow.lio sehhdTdroNem s s heeseD enrpvretvr’isicerm epd2u ar iirfnm0yagdm aiun1 risyltyte r3f ryuse tns ywtcFl etawi sooaa nssn: eo ddpr virnadiontienvg ig da.a-t
2
should not, however, be relied upon to destroy sbaafcetteyr iaan do rs apnreitsaetrivoen fionotod sy.o Tuhr e Administration (FDA), July 2015
M07_LABE1900_06_SE_C07.indd Page 132 03/11/17 3:49 PM ganga /203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_1A _TSEXuTmBOmOKa_OriFz_eC UtLhINeA RcYo_FnUt r...ibutions that chefs Carême and Escoffier made to advance the culinary
amount of acidity appropriate for flavoring is not sufficiernet gtuo laern skuirtceh tehne dacetsitvruiatrcitest idsou.nri ng the 19sthu pcepnlteumrye.nt, indicates that the
of bacteria.
temperature danger zone begins at 41°F
2 Discuss two recent culinary movements and their impact on the way food is served in
restaurants today.(5°C) and ends at 135°F (57°C).
Time 132 CHAPTER SEVEN
Regulations in some localities and with
3 List and explain three technological advances affecting food preparation.
Bacterial growth takes place in four phases. See Figure 2.3. When bacteria are moved
some organizations may vary. This text
from one Fprolamc eYo tuor Garnooctehre’sr S, htehlefy require time to adjust to new conditions. This4 rHeoswti ncagn a food service operation address customer concerns about where their food was
uses the range recommended by the FDA.
grown or raised and participate in the sustainability movement?
period, dEuvenr tihne mgo stw sophhisitcicahte d vfooedr seyrv iclei ttle grsoauwce. Athsian ocuicsincesu inrcosrp,o riaste thkesne own aonsio nts,h suega r,l vainegga r,p mhanago,s raeis inas, nd may last
operation occasionally uses some prepared bottled sauces in curries, soups, stews and tamarind and spices. Produced in Jamaica, it
from 1 toco n4dim hentos our frlasvo.r inTgs.h Thee p rloadugcts lpistehd ase oitshe r fdoishlesl oandw ase tadble cbonydim etnhts.e O nel oof g pish usaeds ase a, c oand impenet froir omedat, goamfe oar cc5e lDerisactuessd t he societal changes that have contributed to diversification in the modern food
here are widely used and available from grocery the most popular and widely available brands fish and as a seasoning in sauces, soups and service industry.
growth, astnoreds o r twhhoelesnale pburyve yotrhs. eSo mse atrae tionarisy th pe Vhietnaamseese,-s tywle chhilei cgahrlic slaaucse twsith untdirle sstinhgse. bacteria begin to crowd
within thbseyrnaoinnrdy- nmacomuoes iwlteoitmhn st htheya pt,r h oadcvuecr bt eeitcsaoemlft;e io nathlmegross at rce ompab yr eoHoutsyti eFtro ilonogg oFn ooon d iftss.o Vlaarbrei ol,uf mso iamdope oidnr tCe,da lisfoprniaa ce▶ Tbarabiganhscto-dr berd a nlmidq usaiudoc eb:il eTsnatdbueadsc rforeo sma.u vcienT eisgh aar ,ti hcsihn i,l ecs 6ro Dwedscirnibge the kitchen brigade system. What is its significance in today’s professional
signals thathveeariel a ibsbl ea efcrhogomici sene, vsenerlaeicl tnm bargnaun fdasoc twufirt ehr tsa.hl lW neahteu nr adl ecliSsnoriuretahce hrano sTarhua cielnas,n ndea, mgareead a fltosori awv pideoerl-ty gtaovwarinloa ibnlw e.th aspanudhc seasa,lt s.s oItuesp fs,ie arnyd dfl apuvroerpr aiisrn ewdig ddei slyh wuess;e hdit iinsi ca h bakictctehernias? Stationary
die at an inagrcedcienetsl, efewr athitcekender s ranadt neo . ▶ Hoisin sauce: Hoisin sauce is a dark, thick, popular condiment for Mexican, southern 7 What ▲are t Fhel raolveso ofr a Schiefd, seoubs-cahrefps haansde line cook in a modern kitchen?
preservatives. salty-sweet sauce made from fermented and southwestern cuisines. Tabasco sauce
pE4b xaehcrpBoitooeeusdrcruissaar u etdh▶▶os uatBaumovsfCetoea osfahmaevr rvrer ib ealibdyeoiiao rltxeo e anus,rpttc. uabulusprh f u r ebreiogf cm eTsctelseu apeau:tfooa l ovueeAthhrforcrc ipseste ylrityio:af seae imo seCu,mcfnre or tco l naeerecfmemi letlxchsusmoteat ephimualideaen.rrlps sgr esegAea,s.tir s na vactsi et uaiharivrnpaptce naeaeirlem in dtgmlb,laag h taieaaaybo nrmiorrlt lssobdaaoer.tou m,eno b acskwduenapaurn sisespseto et .pvh ri wsanSo,fi acb ragnp oeuid me rsfacite aesopoya tlifeesdo n o dgr▶▶ieesssusObpubO oa sslaorlyeueeydcpsiibn lbddt cernBedzee iadriiaka. an nc sya osn an oC sbhcutsanhrr,hcnnha teietvminadl:nbiel dni efOeepnoi esss irteyeghean hsaa in gidtespt ra edosr,icrei rs n eegf ch ilnslplnarameeac agarvrsul: br yoig uocacO .trse prtiaahl i rnmdsoinlsgeto ne d,Bsrea s .vda c, uwrteI r yahetdy a rstiii lcasspmae tk matsaew,uh uc amedidtsid latrad.i era lyrIlivlr ytpkyeipsd pipnes, i i encdc,eg r rhaaen▶otaugWtoaahO(mwhcsnnafrtoao iscdefhnerynee h ce,be rst eborrdmsepas evt“eva iie ined cLnserrzneikou ssentpsht ,buab.goe oirm risrod Irseottnoid ai, n ainstiwnulas unltg augycna tueav cree p-sieelneddnsnie:e,dqt . edpWi yiurgn e ldpatiean o deLus”hrtrr ,oz smca sht use,n ieoao cnaisvsmthotdcii e naaslnneauraenld osrdfcguaeihrienimaoc niuscdrremsgiee s,na n e flssmcnatadeod fopuv o1aslco arr8aret nsi6lb etsipa8se)tev y oe.sa1b fp e 089tlo r eeyrDsLoW x tkilrusesiceghltshlany evcsa no,rdeien iittTfluobozrddlyaat.e sasfhp et t tierxveoheaop dneoafls e a.nkd ersidentsmber of bacteria cellsi iyoi n ojsst uahn hgidtecdatLg . rlbah mieicbgneuabenuglnnetianetfri gsartre sresoLpe ydqo thf h uogsaaitairseh rhgecte nuaoydenlo tiw iniusnzcaa c yrhtmaoyhion aupnoa rrers oywacn ahfjc eoso bskytss eteebiohnry en cbiarae lm rlaeoneDenmrdeg?c ibtlnihengiren st g optsho a ay asopedurho cefaeresn s tidooo na at col o cddueelvi noealfo repyt htihces ?
Temperatusdbraeumpet beaonllld oainrr egs a tomhnibc otkhl, oere ecldeokdu,i nsvhatr-ryoie rosa fsn oogrmeig aeinwn dho ar ts tyle, sssaaaulutccyee-s miws eaoedftte ef nflar ovuomser doa nywsdtit eahr resitxcithrr- afarcriteo.dm I tma h.e aOast ysas atenrd aarinncddh aapnsr edap fsauerlael,ds ob dnuiitsn hngeo sfto. srIt assla tfyul.ac Vveoesg,r esstohauorpiuaslnd, sabtneewd s 11 TUhsee oJaumtseisd eB ereasNurodu Frocpeuhsna tdsoea tleioanrn r ewchoog nJaizmese as nBde ahrodn woarss .o Wuthsticahn dcihnegf sA amree rciucarrne nchtleyf cso enascihd eyreeadr.
Temperateuxtrremeel y piusn getnht aend spmicy. oThseyt u suiamlly portpaonulttry inf Cahcinetsoe crui sinien. the pathogkosehenr viecrsi onbs maacdet weithroiuat a’nsc hoeviens avrei ronsommee noft the most outstanding in the United States? Why?
contain ground chiles with garlic or onion ▶ Pickapeppa brand sauce: Pickapeppa sauce is a also available.
because ita nids w itthh leess vinfeagacr tthoanr L ofuiosiaonad-sty les heotr vicdear k,w thicok,r swkeeet-rhost bclenad nof tommaotoess,t easily control. High temperatures 0 5 10
destroy most microorganisms. Freezing slows but does not stop growth, nor does it Time (hours)
destroy bacteria. Fermented black bean sauce is a Chinese condiment and flavoring ingredient made Figure 2.3 Bacterial growth curve. iii
from black soybeans that have been heavily salted, then fermented and either slightly
mashed (whole bean sauce) or puréed (paste). Both versions usually include hoisin,
chile sauce or minced garlic and feature an intense, pungent, salty flavor. Yellow bean
Fermented black bean sauces are similar, but milder and sweeter.
paste Fish sauce (Viet. nuoc mam; Th. nam pla) is the liquid drained from fermenting
salted anchovy-like fish. It is a thin, golden to light brown liquid with a very pungent
odor and salty flavor. There is no substitute for the savory richness that it adds to food
and it is considered an essential flavoring and condiment throughout Southeast Asia,
where it is used in and served with most every sort of dish.
Gochujang [go-choo-JANG] is a paste made from finely ground dried Korean red
peppers, glutinous (sticky) rice flour, fermented soy bean flour, salt and a bit of sugar or
Fish sauce honey. It is used in stews, in marinades, as a condiment for simple rice
and noodle dishes and as a dipping sauce, sometimes mixed with
Korean fermented bean paste (doenjang), for grilled meats. Con-
sidered one of the primary flavors of Korean cuisine, gochujang is
fiery hot with sweet, rich, mildly fermented notes. No other chile
paste can be substituted for its distinctive flavor. Many commer-
cial varieties are widely available; the best do not contain any arti- Gochujang
ficial colors, MSG, cornstarch or other thickeners.
Tomato ketchup (also known as catsup or catchup) originally referred to any salty
extract from fish, fruits or vegetables. Prepared tomato ketchup is a sauce, created in
America and used worldwide as a flavoring ingredient or condiment. It is bright red and
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982 CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE
FLAVORS AND FLAVORINGS 117
Procedure for Rolling and Shaping Pie Dough
Like music, clothing, architecture, language and basic belief systems, food is a deeply
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phrase for explaining the differences among various global cuisines, as the words “eth-
nic” or “foreign” may be seen as insensitive, or even offensive, terms for non-western
cultures and cuisines. Because of modern access to ingredients and increased interna-
tio▲nal tra vPel anrd omigrcatioen, dtodauy’s crooeks asre exposed to a greater variety of cuisines
than at any time in history. But exposure is not expertise. Culinarians should strive to
understand the heritage and history of cuisines that are different from their own and
shoSultd ewoprk -wbith ythe-ses vtaerioups c ocokiong lmoethro dsp, inhgreodietntos agnd rpraesepntahtionss ino a f various stages
➌ Press the dough into the pan. For a single thoughtful, respectful manner.
crust pie, trim the edge. Use the index finger in the preparation of ingredients and dishes help
and thumb on one hand and the index finger HERBS AND SPICES
on the other to create a scalloped edge. Bake you visualize unfamiliar techniques and encour-
➊s⅛h oi nuDclh2do u(b3ge1 h mr ofi2ollllrei mda etttyo ep ra isc )t a;h li i tpc ksi enh Cecosruusl dsoHt f b oaerp atApatr rlote xPasihsmte aT llt elyE R➋do nes tEiorWe adhL r etonhlE ilycinokgnuV e phsiasnE,v. ecP aroNroselifltueiodllny t hrtohel eld tpohiuneg dohov teuorg tthhh eeu pp ie or fill as desired. HaSmlelpetaeeawirvncrbeestsss gsi ,t o ashasnr etrn edeaame rt ossusptmr ryniaoocalrne t foigsfelcal lsoyav.w r uoveSfrelp sarue.i vs csH oeetarrsedreo er ad b ar usseno s aerftrlh rdaeaee ve ri moonbcrm aeivdnrmakregitb,eiis ce,dre sor apsaon onstow srdfi,t ta i teosfhmernee ers sdl cthayhos r,affg l otb.e prau amlgdadr nssdot tosuos s p raau bdorsnedefe or darwf irleaao osvtsma o osfraltfsmae t piv tcotol oap rn oi lnatats hgno festtohs,r o awrcfdtoo h uonaosddnksuside--. itchwfaalrneahorthvo bmoos radeai nneotlieygrca ; oo( vnu1fre s)sase ,m h dl saa etervelagilimt;ne h( gsge2c rrao) o dracu trfh pifleaooi dorwova fdoe ca rrtars eifod rramietdsrseetaihi dcute i stcaoe npd desl ana pnsh l taeasan sc-e
2 inches (5 centimeters) larger in diameter than pan or tart shell and unroll the dough, easing it ally grow naturally only in tropical climates. Spices are almost always used in their dried the natural aromas of another food; aromatics
the baking pan. into the pan or shell. form, rarely fresh, and can usually be purchased whole or ground. Some plants—dill, for include most flavorings, such as herbs and
example—can be used as both an herb (its leaves) and a spice (its seeds). Some herbs spices, as well as some vegetables, especially
Good Choice Vegan and spices are rVich ine aromgatice oilst thaat mayb easilly eover poSwer ta diosh. Kcnowk which herbs celery, carrots and onions
and spices may overwhelm and use them sparingly. spice any of a large group of aromatic plants
In the sections that follow, we discuss common herbs and spices and show photos of whose bark, roots, seeds, buds or berries are
them to help familiarize you with them. Herbs, spices and blends are listed alphabeti- used as a flavoring; usually used in dried form,
MISE EN PLACE YIELD 2 gal. (7.6 lt) cally and pictured in three separate lists in the following sections. either whole or ground
Herbs
▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for
Vegetable oil Fragrant herbs are available fresh or dried.4 B efcalu.s eo drzyi.ng alters their flavo1rs2 0 ml
mirepoix. ➎ Roll out the remaining dough, making the Mirepoix, small dice asinbdle a. rMomicaros, hfererbshs hareer bths ea rfeir sgt etrnueer allelya vperse ofef4 rvrei rdltu baanll.dy ashnoy uelddi bblee uhseerbd, isf upcohs -1.9 kg
▶ Clean, peel and chop leecTihrkcel eda olaunrggdhe em ngaoyua bgrhe l ltiiofct eh dac ninlgot oov vpeelra tcshee. b pya rno’sll iendgg iet. Leek, white and green papasicr bktaesdsi l ,aon rcd chchaerorevifinupl.tl elMynp sipceera ofcld akgvarogeree;d nc shf oearfrs e d uevsleeirv yteh rfey1rm.a g T iallhsebe gyaa .nradnr iesm hbueussr,t s etbisnep geh cawinaildtlhy- 480 g
➍ To m▶akeW a daousbhle carunstd pi ed, roicll eth ef deonugnh el, tuonrton thipe r oallinngd pi nt, oas m wPitah ttrhoeo b.ottdom ucrusct.t I➏d Seeal nthGe ttoapi rcfrluiisct ct oc tahleo btvotietoosm, c rncusht w▲oithp ped on entrées a nd B caasnial p(8éFsr.. basilic) is one of the 8
oduotu gahs bin▶etfoo rPteh,e rm peaapkni naagn rtdhe ter ichmirH cetlhere lb auerdg gsene.a sP adrces shsr tehete .ds of original color phoecgrtugos wt tagosghe rotFhra ewer apbnteetrnhw. Peeiensncl h y,o thuhsre mf etinogplae aprtnlipld s b doyort itcocorimmeu p ga revaatr iceutlyi8n oa rfy o“ hflzearv.bosr. sI”t— isc ainvnaialambolen ,i ng arlic2, 40M icgro basil Micro chervil
needed. as desired.T Sluits ronr diepsig,n s dshoiculde bde cut from lsewmeoetn b, ae4svile. noS wczeheo.tc boalasitle h—asb ulitg htht eg remeons, tt ec1nodm2erm 0leoan vg eiss
recognize and identify ingredthei etopn crutsst t.o alYlowo steuam tco eascanpe. ex- and small white flowers. Its flavor isn’t actually sweet,
Tomato, diced but rathe4r s troonzg,. warm and slightly pepp1er2y, 0wit hg a
plore a huge variety of items such as fruits, berries, Basil hint of anise and cloves. Basil is used in Mediterranean and
White wine some Southeast Asian 1cu ispinets. and has a special affinity4 fo8r 0 ml
Procedure for Rollincgh anodc Sohalpaitneg sD,o ufgrhe fsohr L ahtteicreb Csru, stfissh, dried spices, game, garlic and tomatoes. When purchasing fresh basil, look for bright green leaves;
Water avoid flower buds and wilted or rust-colore2d l egaveas.l D.ried sweet basil is read7ily. 6 lt
available but has a decidedly weaker flavor than fresh.
1 Ra oglul itdhee, dcuotu egvhe onu stt raipnsd olifn teh teh dee psairmne da sw esidpteahc,i fttieyspdi ci naa ltlhy ne½ p irdSnecvahi o (ucfi1s.h 2pn rceoecnetet:dim urceet.e hrUss)i.enge a rsuleer ass . andO ap aml ebdaisuiml i-ss tnroanmge fdla fvoorr .i tOs pviavli db apsuil rmplaey c boelo sru. bIts thitaust ead tfoourg shweer,e ct rbinaksille idn leaf Opal basil
M12_LABE1900_06_SE_C12.indd Page 258 06/11/17 3:18 PM2 gSwapenoagovaen tohre psotruipr st htoe gfeiltlihnegr ionnto /t2 ot0hp3e /o PdfH oth0u2eg 3hf0i-ll8liin/n9eg7d.8 -B0pe1a 3ns4u. 4rUe4 s1tih9n0eg 0 sa_tnrLi ApBoBsv eEaarrN-euyS neK vdlYeeen/rL-layoA vsBfepEra NpcSeadtKt Yefor_nrO ,a Nn_ COOKING_A_cToEoXkTinBgO, OanKd_ OitsF a_pCpUeTLahIrNaainA scRweY em_eFat kUbe as..s .iitl a( Tdhis. t2ibnacit ivheo rgaaprnhias)h .has a narrow 2
attractive result. Crimp the lattice strips to the bottom cr ust tDo sreaile.d thyme lies auf saendd ipnu brpolteh srtaewm . aInt dh a1cso a o tkslesidgph dt .ilsihcoersi cien fSlaovuothr eaansdt Th5ai s wmeet lbasil
Asian cuisines.
Peppercorns, crushed Bay (Fr. laurier), also 1kn otwsnp as. sweet laurel, is a sma5ll trmee tlhat
Bay leaves produces tough, glossy leaves with a sweet balsamic aroma and
258 CHAPTER TWELVE Parsley stems 16 16
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Good Choice Beef Br1o tHheat the oil. Add the mirepoix, leek, garlic, fennel, turnip and tomato and sweat for 10 minutes.
MISE EN PLACE ▲YIEL DM 2 gal.i (7s.6 let), 4 2e Sernving s,P lace 2 AdMdET HthODe Bwrotihne, water and sachet.
▶Cut beef shank into pieces. 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each
▶Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for FBeref eshannkc, nheck ofro shoru ld“erp cuut int in pla3c eB,r”1i2 n l bg. the 5m.7 kigxture to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes, skimming the stocFkI SiHf AND SHELLFISH 481
mirepoix. 2-in.- (5-cm-) thick pieces
▶Wash and peel turnips and leeks and chop into tVhegeitasb le foeilature accompanynine8c gfle. osz s.ary.240 ml
medium dice. Beef stock or water, cold 2 gal. 7.6 lt Tail (caudal fin) Backbone Dorsal fin
▶Wash, peel, seed and dice tomatoes. iMnire-pcoixhapter recipes pro4v Sidt2r ealb.isn , coo96l0 agnd refrigerate.
▶Prepare herb sachet. Turnips, medium dice 8 oz. 240 g Operculum (gill cover)
238 CHAPTER EaLLee Eklsi, VmsetdE iuomN dfi cewhat you must d8 ooz. 240 g
Tomatoes, seeded and diced Approxi8m oza.te valu2e4s0 p ger 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 5, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total
Adding cold water to sweatbeSadceh evft:oegreet asbtlaesr.ting a recipe, such
    Bay leaf carbohy1drates 0 g1, Protein 0 g, Claims—fat free; low calorie
a    sDr iepd thryemeheating the oven, ½ 1 tsp. 5 ml
    Peppercorns, crushed ½ 1 tsp. 5 ml
c    hParosleyp stpemsing nuts or mCeltoinug8r t Bo8uillon
Procedure for Pre    Gparlaic clroveisn, crugshe da Vegetable2 Juice2 Sauce Vent
bSalut tter. TT TT Ribs Pectoral fin
A court bouillon [bool-yawn], is not actually a stocAnakl fin. HowePinvboneesr, it is pPerlveic fipnared in much the
1 Brown the meat in 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliterss)a oiml1, t heenW pmlaacea sitnh in naa setnorcdk pa opts. Ae dsedt ltoh ve csetokgckes ot,r asbol ews aes i nneceluddeFdeig. uirte 2h0.e1 rBeon. e Astr ucctoureu orf ta rbouondu fiislhl.on (French for “short broth”)
water and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 2 hours, skimming the surface as necessary.
2 Caramelize the mirepoix in the remaining oil anids a dad2 i t ftolP athrevo lioqcuirede safsdte rt thhlei eqm euvate ihdgase ,s itmuamsebreulde asl ltyh rwouagtehr aa jnudic ew eixTnatil e(rcaa udocal fitrno) vr.inBacekbognear, in which vDoresal gfinetables and season-
▲ Icons 3 fSoimr 2m heor uurnst.i lA fdudll tfhlaev otur rhnaips sd, eleveeklosp, etodm, aaptoperos xaimnidna tseaglc3yh s1e th .ohPural. aSvkcimee t h etb shuerefae cjenu as i ncseiceems sianrmy. ae sraeudc teop aimn apnadrt atdhde isrt oflcakv,o lerms aonnd ju aicreo,m haersb.s or other fOpleraculvumo (grill icnoverg)s as
4 Carefully strain the broth through cheesecloth and seaCsono tou tarstte . Cboool aundi rleflroigenrat e.is most commonly used to poach foods such as fish and shellfish.
desired.
Icons identify recipesAT optptarloh cxaimrbaaothety vd arlauateess rp 1e erg ,6 P- frl.o-toezi.n ( 41 8g0-ml) serving: Calories 30, ToRtale fatc 1 gi,p Sateurasted fvat 0a g,r Cyhol esdteroel 0p mge, Sondiudm 5i5n mgg, on the foods to be poached. Although a court bouillon can be
vegetarian, vegan or good 4 Bring the sauce to a simmer and reduce as necessary.
made in advance and refrigerated for later use, its simplicity lends itself to fresh prepara-
choices for health-conscious tio5n wSthr aeLinnie ntvheeer s Danuerceaed twehdri.onugghs a▲ fine chinois if required.
diners. 6 Adjust the seasonings. Enrich the sauce by whisking in whole butter or other fat if desired.
Detailed line drawings illustrate
Anal fin Pectoral fin
tools and equipment without
Good Choice Vegan Court BouiRlibslon Pinbones Vent Pelvic fin
brand identification. Other draw-
Figure 20.2 Bone structure of a flatfish.
MISE EN PLACE ings depict the skeletal structure
Vegetarian Good Choice YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt) Carrot Juice Sauce
▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for of meat animals, fish and poultry.
mirepoix. Water 1 gal. 3.8 lt
M▶ICSrEus hE pNep pPeLrcAorCnsE. YVIinEeLgDa r8 fl. oz. (240 ml) 6 fl. oz. 180 ml
➊ Browning the meat. ➋ Adding mirepoix to the broth. ➌ Straining the broth. Stacked
▶ Wash carrots and put through juice extractor. CLeamrroont jjuuiiccee muscl2e fl. oz. 60 m1 lpt. 480 ml
fibers
▶ Chop fresh herbs. CMinirnepamoioxn, ground 1 lb. 8 oz. 720p ginch pinch
CBaloyv lee,a gvreosund 4 4 pinch pinch
NPeuptpmeergco, grnros,u cnrdushed 1 tsp. 5 mplinch pImnudisivcnilde uficablehr
Dried thyme 1 pinch 1 pinch
Salt and white pepper Figure 20.3 Muscle fibers in a round fish. TT TT
iv Parsley stems 1 bunch 1 bunch
Cayenne pepper Compared to meats, fish do not contain larpgei namcohunts of intermuscpulianr fcath. But the
amount of fat a fish does contain affects the way it responds to cooking. Fish containing
1 LCeommobni njuei caell ingredients and bring to aa breloatiivle.ly large amount of fat, such as salmon1 an Td mbasckper.el, are know1n 5as fmattyl or oily
Unsalted butter, diced fish. Fish containing very little fat, such as cod 3an do hzad.dock, are referre9d t0o ags lean fish.
2 Reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 mSihnellufisthe asre. also very lean.
Fresh chervil, chives or tarragon, chopped 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
3 Strain and use immediately or cool and refrigerate.
1 Combine the carrot juice, spices and lemon juice in a small sauce pan. Bring to a simmer and
Note This recipe can be used for poaching almost any fish, but it is particularly well suited to salmon,
reduce the liquid by half.
trout and shellfish. When poaching freshwater fish, replace the water and vinegar with equal parts
w2h itWe whiisnke tahned b wutatteerr .into the simmering sauce one or two pieces at a time until all the butter is incor-
porated.
Approximate values per 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 3, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total
Straining court bouillon. ca3rb oRheydmraotvese 0f rgo, mPro ttheien h0 ega, tC laanimds —stfairt firne et;h loew h seordbiusm. Hold for service.
Approximate values per 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 100, Total fat 9 g, Saturated fat 5 g, Cholesterol 25 mg, Sodium 40 mg,
Total carbohydrates 6 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 230%, Vitamin C 10%
➊ Juicing the carrots. ➋ The finished carrot juice sauce has body, a
rich color and smooth texture.
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Additional Quick Bread Formulas
Recipes
Chocolate Cherry Scones
Houston Community College, Houston, TX
Measurements Pastry Chef Eddy Van Damme
YIELD 24 Scones, approx. 4¼ oz. (130 g) each METHOD Biscuit
All recipes include both U.S. and metric Unsalted butter, cold 14 oz. 420 g 44%
Granulated sugar 4 oz. 120 g 12.5%
measurements. To aid in teaching scal-
Buttermilk 8 fl. oz. 240 ml 25%
ing and consistent baking practices, we Sour cream 1 lb. 480 g 50%
Salt 0.6 oz. (1 Tbsp.) 18 g 2%
also provide metric equivalents for all Vanilla extract 0.5 fl. oz. (1 Tbsp.) 15 ml 1.5%
All-purpose or pastry flour 2 lb. 960 g 100%
temperatures, pan sizes and length mea- Baking powder 2 oz. 60 g 6%
Dried cherries 1 lb. 480 g 50%
surements throughout the text. Baking
Chocolate chunks 9 oz. 270 g 28%
recipes also include measurements in Powdered sugar as needed as needed
Total dough weight: 6 lb. 6 oz. 3063 g 319%
baker’s percentage.
1 Chill a mixer bowl and paddle attachment in the freezer for at least 15 minutes before mixing.
2 Cut the butter into 1-inch (6-millimeter) cubes. Set aside in the refrigerator.
3 Whisk together the sugar, buttermilk, sour cream, salt and vanilla extract in a bowl until smooth.
Illustrations Set aside in the refrigerator.
4 Put the flour and baking powder in the chilled mixer bowl. Place the butter on top. Mix on low
Recipes are illustrated with both sequen- speed using the paddle attachment until the mixture resembles coarse meal.
5 Add the buttermilk mixture to the dry ingredients and mix very briefly, until just combined. Mix in
tial photos showing the preparation of the cherries and chocolate until just combined.
6 Scale the dough into three uniform pieces. On a lightly floured surface, press each piece of dough
dishes and many finished-dish photos
out into an 8-inch (20.5-centimeter) disk using a metal torte ring or other form as a guide.
that show you the authors’ finished food 7 Cut each disk of dough into eight wedges. Position the wedges of dough spaced 2 inches (5 centi-
meters) apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until light golden brown,
created while testing the recipes. approximately 18–24 minutes. When cool, dust with powdered sugar if desired.
Variation:
Cinnamon Orange Scones—Omit the sun-dried cherries and chocolate chunks. Add 0.5 ounce (2 table-
Variations spoons/15 grams/1.5%) ground cinnamon and 0.2 ounce (1 tablespoon/6 grams/0.6%) grated
orange zest in Step 3. Yield is reduced to 4 pounds 15 ounces (2313 grams).
Recipe variations show you how to Approximate values per 4¼-oz. (130-g) scone: Calories 430, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 45 mg, Sodium 550 mg,
Total carbohydrates 58 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 25%, Calcium 20%, Iron 15%
modify recipe ingredients to create new
dishes.
Nutritional Analysis
All recipes include a nutritional analysis
prepared by a registered dietician.
➊ Mixing in the chilled butter. ➋ Adding the chilled buttermilk mixture. ➌ Placing the portioned dough on baking sheets.
937
Finished dish photos illustrate ways to present the
recipe.
Sidebars
Sidebars present information on food history, food in culture and the back-
ground of professional foodservice. These sidebars help you understand the
culinary arts in a wider social context.
Questions for Discussion
Questions for Discussion, which appear at the end of each chapter, encourage you
to integrate theory and technique into a broader understanding of the material.
v
Comprehensive Learning and Teaching Package
FOR THE STUDENT
MyLab Culinary
MyLab Culinary, a dynamic online tool, supports the many ways students learn.
MyLab Culinary enables the student to study and master the content online on
their own time and at their own pace. Media-rich personalized study plans are
based on the student’s performance using the site’s interactive testing and games.
▪▪ UPDATED! Pearson Kitchen Manager has been redesigned and rebuilt for an
improved customer experience and better connection to the Learning Objectives.
With this collection of On Cooking recipes, you can quickly perform simple tasks
such as recipe scaling, recipe costing and recipe conversions.
▪▪ NEW! Chapter 0, Culinary Math Fundamentals, with one model problem for
20 identified math concepts, with 10 practice problems for each concept (220 total
problems).
The following updated chapter resources are included:
▪▪ Short Writing Assignments for each chapter build critical analysis and problem
solving skills and send students to Pearson Kitchen Manager (when appropriate).
▪▪ Multiple Choice Questions in the form of Chapter Quizzes and Tests are in align-
ment with each Learning Objective, reinforcing the content in On Cooking.
▪▪ Videos align with On Cooking or current American Culinary Federation Standards.
▪▪ Video Assessment Questions are included with each video.
▪▪ Culinary Rubrics and Correlation Guides align with current American Culinary
Federation Standards.
vi
FOR THE INSTRUCTOR
Manage Your Course with MyLab Culinary
MyLab Culinary is an easy-to-use online resource designed to supplement a
traditional lecture course. It provides instructors with basic course management
capabilities in the areas of course organization, grades, communication and per-
sonalization of content. Instructors benefit from course management tools such
as a robust grade book, integrated course email and reporting tools. MyLab
Culinary also includes grading rubrics; these downloadable documents that can
be used to grade and assess kitchen skills. Reporting features include data track-
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Qualified adopters can download the following instructor supplements by regis-
tering at our Instructors’ Resource Center at www.pearsoned.com.
Online Instructor’s Manual
The Instructor’s Manual includes chapter outlines, examination questions and
answers, performance-based learning activities, answers to end-of-chapter
questions for discussion and maps to ACF skill standards and competencies.
(ISBN-10: 0-13-445365-4)
PowerPoint Lecture Presentations
This comprehensive set of slides can be used by instructors for class presenta-
tions or by students for lecture preview or review. There is a presentation for
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vii
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On Cooking
A TEXTBOOK OF CULINARY FUNDAMENTALS | SIXTH EDITION
SARAH R. LABENSKY | ALAN M. HAUSE | PRISCILLA A. MARTEL
Photographs by Richard Embery and Debby Wolvos
Drawings by Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram
330 Hudson Street, NY, NY 10013