Table Of ContentThe Art of Creating Cornbread in a Bottle
MARK SPIVAK
Copyright © 2014 Mark Spivak
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage
retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for
permission should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, PO Box
480, Guilford, CT 06437.
Lyons Press is an imprint of Globe Pequot Press.
Part opener jar photo by Kelsey Pouk
Editor: Amy Lyons
Project Editor: Meredith Dias Text Design/Layout: Maggie Peterson
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Spivak, Mark (Mark Allen), author.
Moonshine nation : the art of creating cornbread in a bottle / Mark Spivak.
pages cm
Summary: “Moonshine Nation is the story of Moonshine’s history andorigins alongside profiles of modern
moonshiners (and a collection ofdrinks from each)”— Provided by publisher.
eISBN 978-1-4930-1245-9 (ePub) 1. Distilling industries—Piedmont (U.S. : Region) 2.
Distilleries—Piedmont (U.S. : Region) 3. Distilling, Illicit—Piedmont (U.S. : Region)—History. I. Title.
TP590.6.U6S65 2014
338.4'7663500973—dc23
2014011011
For Carolann
All roads, rivers, and hurricanes
Contents
Title Page
Copyright Page
Introduction
P 1: L L
ART EGACY AND EGEND
Marching on Pennsylvania
General Grant’s Whiskey
Robin Hood of the Dark Corner
Baptists and Bootleggers
King of the Moonshiners
Bootlegging, Inc.
Heads, Tails, and Hearts
Moonshine and the Law
Dixie Mafia
P 2: T M M
ART HE ODERN OONSHINERS
Piedmont Distillers and the Legacy of Junior Johnson
Recipes
Spencer Balentine’s Silver Trail Distillery
Recipes
MB Roland
Recipes
Troy & Sons
Recipes
Howling Moon
Recipes
Popcorn Sutton: Fiction and Fact
American Moonshine Producers
About the Author
Index
Introduction
Like many consumers, I believed that bourbon was the true American spirit. It’s
a good story, and distillers in Kentucky are adept at telling it. Bourbon, however,
is basically aged corn whiskey, and corn whiskey was made in this country from
the earliest days of the colonial settlers: Scots-Irish immigrants who traveled to
the New World and brought their distilling skills with them. After the Whiskey
Rebellion of 1791–94, those folks went underground and concocted their
product in thousands of improvised stills throughout the Appalachian South.
Their whiskey—unregulated, untaxed, and illegal—was made by the light of the
moon and became known as moonshine.
As I researched the Whiskey Rebellion, I realized it was the source of many of
the social and cultural divisions we see in America today. The widespread
mistrust of the government throughout the South, as well as the resentment of
the moneyed classes on the part of hardworking, rural citizens, is directly
traceable to the events of 1791–94. Moonshining in the Appalachian South
became both a source of sustenance and a way of life. In addition to being the
only way to survive, it also became a symbol of the individual’s resistance against
forces beyond his or her control.
Moonshine today is legal in many states, and mason jars filled with corn
whiskey populate the shelves of retail stores across the country. Even so, the
attitudes of moonshiners haven’t changed much. Many of these men and women
are descendants of generations of people who hid stills in remote spots in the
backwoods and risked prison time to support their families. They are proud of
their heritage and are committed to making sure that their ancestors’ way of life
doesn’t disappear.
The first part of this book traces the history of moonshine from the Whiskey
Rebellion through the tax wars of the nineteenth century, and onward to
Prohibition toward the present day. The second half consists of profiles of latter-
day, legal moonshiners. These people welcomed me into their houses, sheds, and
distilleries, shared their stories and their hospitality, and I’m grateful for it: It
gave me a glimpse into a freewheeling period of American history that is now
being glamorized in popular culture. As I listened, I realized that many of the
memories were bittersweet. Moonshining and bootlegging were hard and
dangerous work; while a handful of people did get rich, most were engaged in a
desperate effort to eke out a living.
The widespread appeal of moonshine today goes way beyond the product
itself. Certainly, most modern moonshine is far better than the illegal corn
whiskey once produced in backwoods stills. More importantly, it symbolizes a
lost America—a place free of commutes and urban blight, where people can defy
the system and occasionally make the authorities look ridiculous. As I note in my
profile of notorious moonshiner Popcorn Sutton, we all yearn at times to be the
guy sticking his middle finger at society, and immersing ourselves in their stories
helps us to play out that fantasy in our minds.
Of course, the current popularity of moonshine is connected to more than
myth. Modern distillers are turning out a pure and carefully crafted product, and
one that is extremely mixable. For those who want something to sip on, many
flavored moonshines are delightful, especially since producers have become
pickier about the quality of the fruit used for their infusions.
Most importantly—for me, at least—is the fact that these are simply great
stories. I hope I’ve done them justice. Open a mason jar, make yourself
comfortable, and settle in for some amazing tales.
Description:Moonshine is corn whiskey, traditionally made in improvised stills throughout the Appalachian South. While quality varied from one producer to another, the whiskey had one thing in common: It was illegal because the distiller refused to pay taxes to the US government. Many moonshiners were descendan
